Tikka/proof Prefit bolt close on “no go” gauge.

[YotaEer]

I just swapped out my tikka CTR barrel with a proof prefit. Tightened to 80 ft/lb, per proofs recommendation, and my bolt closes on the “no go” gauge with some resistance. I am not forcing it.

Should I retorque it to a higher or lower value?

This is my first barrel swap so excuse my noob questioning. Just trying to be safe.

 

[Supersubes]

Extra torque wont change the headspace.

Would be wise to use some sort of a shim(brass shim stock, tape etc on head of your no-go)to see how far outside of no-go it is.

 

[YotaEer]

Extra torque wont change the headspace.

Would be wise to use some sort of a shim(brass shim stock, tape etc on head of your no-go)to see how far outside of no-go it is.

Thank you for the reply.

I did have my action cerakoted by LRI previously, so perhaps that’s added some space and I should remove any cerakote on the action face?

 

[smoothy8500]

and my bolt closes on the “no go” gauge with some resistance.

Thus it didn’t close….if there was no resistance the bolt would not have closed all the way. You are at maximum of the GO measurement.

 

[mi223]

If you didn't already, I would strip the ejector as that will give you a better feel. I would also do like said above and try to figure out how far away it is from not closing at all.

Sounds like it is at high limit and will probably be okay. But it sure would drive me crazy

 

[Supersubes]

I missed the “some” resistance. Run it, you're fine.

 

[YotaEer]

I missed the “some” resistance. Run it, you're fine.

Yea it’s clearly more resistance vs the go gauge being very easy to close. But it does still close fully with the no-go gauge as well

Thanks for the help

 

[YotaEer]

Also just added one strip of tape, measured at .003” and it didn’t close at all. So with these Forster go gauges. I’m somewhere between 1.545 and 1.548.

 

[super_poot]

Thank you for the reply.

I did have my action cerakoted by LRI previously, so perhaps that’s added some space and I should remove any cerakote on the action face?

Yes, remove any cerakote that is on the action face, this will tighten up the headspace. Then you should be good to go.

 

[Supersubes]

Also just added one strip of tape, measured at .003” and it didn’t close at all. So with these Forster go gauges. I’m somewhere between 1.545 and 1.548.

If you remove the striker from the bolt, close the bolt on the go gauge, the ejector will press the gauge forward into the chamber creating an air gap at the bolt face. Press the bolt forward with your thumbs axially, you’ll see and hear the bolt moving. You can resolve pretty small spaces this way with some
practice. Theres about .005 difference between a Go and a No-go(use a comparator to measure your gauges). Since your chamber appears to be right at No-go, closing on the go will produce a .005 gap, which will feel like a country mile when you thrust the bolt. Add tape to your Go gauge to feel what half the amount of headspace feels like, etc. This works for checking brass fit for die setup as well.

On another note, the big three reamer manufactures split the headspace tolerance in half to arrive at the No-go gauge dimension. The big end of the headspace dimension is referred to as a “field” gauge, and is typically No-go +.005 or thereabouts . In short, even if it comfortably closes on a no-go, youre still likely ok.

 

[celltech]

Switch to a Savage and set the headspace as tight as you want