What is your opinion on the ideal backcountry / hunting rifle weight? Comfortable to carry but heavy enough to shoot good. Traditional stock, no chassis. Looking to build a 7 prc.
Ideal Backcountry Rifle weight?
- Thread starter wolf34
- Start date
6ish pound rifle + 3ish pound scope and rings for 9ish pounds. I use a Kimber Montana 280AI for a lot of walking in Wyoming.
I go right about 8 lbs.
i do run a 19 oz SFP scope to keep it there
A good mix for me between ease of packing and ease of shooting.
Off pack, bipod, or tripod, easy hits to 600 on steel.
All that and last year’s elk at 200 kneeling off hand.
300 wsm with a 200 gr bullet at 2816 fps
i do run a 19 oz SFP scope to keep it there
A good mix for me between ease of packing and ease of shooting.
Off pack, bipod, or tripod, easy hits to 600 on steel.
All that and last year’s elk at 200 kneeling off hand.
300 wsm with a 200 gr bullet at 2816 fps
For me, anywhere between 7.5-8.5 pounds. I definitely don’t want it over 8.5#.
I've said it a few times, but every time I go out west on a mountain hunt, I come home and start buying lighter gear.
I realize there are people on here who carry their 25lb prs rifles into the mountains, and they will be along shortly to tell us about it.
I think there is a simple way to look at it: like the poster above, I limit myself to 600y shots on big game in the mountains. With the wind and terrain, it's all you can hope for under great conditions anyways. I might stretch that to 800y if the conditions and rest are just perfect. To do that, it doesn't require all that much rifle. A 20" barrel is plenty. I settled on an xlr magnesium chasis and I can shoot a very lightweight rifle with a full ar style pistol grip better than in a traditional stock, and i suspect most other people could too. Like the fella above, I also use a VX-6 scope for maximum utility/ weight. The answer to your question is: lightweight quality is very expensive. The difference between a 5.5lb 800y capable rifle and a 7.5lb 800y capable rifle is probably $3,000. Do you want to spend the extra cash on the lightest components available, or keep the cash and work a little harder on your cardio in the off season? Just up to you.
I realize there are people on here who carry their 25lb prs rifles into the mountains, and they will be along shortly to tell us about it.
I think there is a simple way to look at it: like the poster above, I limit myself to 600y shots on big game in the mountains. With the wind and terrain, it's all you can hope for under great conditions anyways. I might stretch that to 800y if the conditions and rest are just perfect. To do that, it doesn't require all that much rifle. A 20" barrel is plenty. I settled on an xlr magnesium chasis and I can shoot a very lightweight rifle with a full ar style pistol grip better than in a traditional stock, and i suspect most other people could too. Like the fella above, I also use a VX-6 scope for maximum utility/ weight. The answer to your question is: lightweight quality is very expensive. The difference between a 5.5lb 800y capable rifle and a 7.5lb 800y capable rifle is probably $3,000. Do you want to spend the extra cash on the lightest components available, or keep the cash and work a little harder on your cardio in the off season? Just up to you.
7 lbs 6.5 oz Weatherby Backcountry Guide 6.5 Creedmoor w/ Vortex Razor LHT 4.5-22x50 and Vortex PMR Rings.
It's hard to draw the line between "shoots good" and "comfortable to carry". Ounce equal pounds, pounds equal pain. It's all relative. How far, how fast and mission dictate.
View attachment IMG_6183.jpeg
It's hard to draw the line between "shoots good" and "comfortable to carry". Ounce equal pounds, pounds equal pain. It's all relative. How far, how fast and mission dictate.
View attachment IMG_6183.jpeg
3 pound scope?! Not sure why anyone would hunt with a Razor G3. You could easily shave off a pound and lose no capability.
Depends on what you are going for. In Florida, with 100+ small deer a 6-pound 6mm rifle will do just fine. For bigger critters, 7.5 pounds with 308 or higher ammo. All with light scopes. In my experience over 40 years, you don't shoot the later .308 range or higher 7.5 pound rifles for fun. They will kick your as after 5-shots. For hunting 1-shot kills though, zero issues.
Grandpa, I thought we buried you. How did you get here?
When it comes to shooting, I know more than you whippersnappers will ever know.
You have some variables in this question. The main three that come to mind:
- Personal build/fitness
- How much distance you are covering
- How much elevation change within that distance
Im not hiking the Big Horns so im pretty chill at 9lbs being ideal for me.
- Personal build/fitness
- How much distance you are covering
- How much elevation change within that distance
Im not hiking the Big Horns so im pretty chill at 9lbs being ideal for me.
I spent many many years hunting in steep terrain. For about 20 of those years, I also packed in deep. For safety, I tried to have a good hunting buddy come along but ran out of friends, usually after only a couple of miles or after the first night.
Most of those years were with a Browning Safari in 30-06.
I learned to shave weight on everything...everything....else. Goretex bivvy. Poncho liner instead of a bag. No change of clothes, just socks. Freeze dried food, all the same flavor, several packages dumped into one plastic ziploc. Another ziploc to eat from. If it was allowed, fire instead of a stove. I tried a water filter but iodine and later on the chlorine dioxide weighs much less.
My gear changed according to weather expectations and I spent lots of sleepless nights shivvering my ass off. Once in a while, I'd bitch out and go back to the vehicle (base camp).
So, I agree with the other old man above. It depends on just how far you want to carry that rifle and what else you are going to be carrying. However, lighter is gooder when you gotta carry it.
Most of those years were with a Browning Safari in 30-06.
I learned to shave weight on everything...everything....else. Goretex bivvy. Poncho liner instead of a bag. No change of clothes, just socks. Freeze dried food, all the same flavor, several packages dumped into one plastic ziploc. Another ziploc to eat from. If it was allowed, fire instead of a stove. I tried a water filter but iodine and later on the chlorine dioxide weighs much less.
My gear changed according to weather expectations and I spent lots of sleepless nights shivvering my ass off. Once in a while, I'd bitch out and go back to the vehicle (base camp).
So, I agree with the other old man above. It depends on just how far you want to carry that rifle and what else you are going to be carrying. However, lighter is gooder when you gotta carry it.
For more background. I hunt Alaska more than anywhere else. Mostly moose, caribou and black bear but planning a Kodiak black tail trip. I have a Kyrgyzstan ibex trip on my radar for the future. I really do not plan to shoot over 600 yds. My current setup is a 8 lb 10 oz 300 win mag. I feel like it is about right but I wouldn't mind shaving a little off it to run a suppressor and end up about the same overall weight. I'm looking at building a 7 PRC. I do not want to get too light and not be able to shoot it good. Thanks for all of the replies.
If you are after a 7 prc suppressed, I would start with a Mac Bro’s action. Very light and well made, I hear; I don’t actually have one. Go 20” on the barrel and look at the shorter titanium suppressors like a Dead Air Nomad Ti XC; I do have one of those, haven’t shot it yet. You could go carbon on the barrel, but you can get lighter with a 20” fluted stainless with a .75” straight contour and it should still be a good suppressor host, especially at 20”. Josh at PVA will spin one up for you. Put it in a light carbon stock and weigh it with loaded rounds and sling. Then add enough scope and rings to get it to 7.75-8#.
Some may balk at a 20” barrel, but it will still toss bullets fast enough to perform reliably at 600 yards. I find it interesting that others have mentioned that being their max to shoot at game as it’s long been mine as well.
I’m currently doing load development, when life allows, on a 300 WSM, Origin short action, 20” PVA Osprey with above mentioned contour, Peak 44 Bastion stock, and above mentioned suppressor. I plan to top it with my NF 2.5-10x42. Right now, it’s sitting in my weighted down KRG-B with a Cronus on top for load development. Should be a touch over 8# all in. Tossing 200’s and 210’s right now, faster than it should with R26 with no “pressure signs”, but haven’t found that sweet spot yet. 2800 fps with a 210 ABLR out of a 20” barrel is probably a bit much. I’m going to back off and look for a lower node and hope the two close and one an inch away groups tighten up. The 200 AB’s are doing a little better group wise, although 2900 fps might be a bit much for them as well. R26 is either magical pixie dust or I’m over loaded despite no normal indications. Lapua brass and F215 primers.
Go short and light, you’ll love it in the mountains. My go to mountain gun since 2001 is a 8.25# Blaser R93 with a 270 or 300 win mag barrel. Still a great shooter and dream to carry in the field, but it would cost me $1900 to have a 20” 300 WSM threaded barrel built for it so I decided to go this route on an action I already have.
Good luck with your choice!
Some may balk at a 20” barrel, but it will still toss bullets fast enough to perform reliably at 600 yards. I find it interesting that others have mentioned that being their max to shoot at game as it’s long been mine as well.
I’m currently doing load development, when life allows, on a 300 WSM, Origin short action, 20” PVA Osprey with above mentioned contour, Peak 44 Bastion stock, and above mentioned suppressor. I plan to top it with my NF 2.5-10x42. Right now, it’s sitting in my weighted down KRG-B with a Cronus on top for load development. Should be a touch over 8# all in. Tossing 200’s and 210’s right now, faster than it should with R26 with no “pressure signs”, but haven’t found that sweet spot yet. 2800 fps with a 210 ABLR out of a 20” barrel is probably a bit much. I’m going to back off and look for a lower node and hope the two close and one an inch away groups tighten up. The 200 AB’s are doing a little better group wise, although 2900 fps might be a bit much for them as well. R26 is either magical pixie dust or I’m over loaded despite no normal indications. Lapua brass and F215 primers.
Go short and light, you’ll love it in the mountains. My go to mountain gun since 2001 is a 8.25# Blaser R93 with a 270 or 300 win mag barrel. Still a great shooter and dream to carry in the field, but it would cost me $1900 to have a 20” 300 WSM threaded barrel built for it so I decided to go this route on an action I already have.
Good luck with your choice!
Triji tenmile 3-18x44 ffp is bomb proof and hits the 24oz weight mark. I've abused my two and they've held zero and track. Reticle is good enough for hunting. FOV isn't the best, but equals a Mk5hd 3.6-18, glass isn't spectacular but does the job. Plus they can usually be found for around $1k 2nd hand market.
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