As long as it's painful...She looks dead , just don’t want to lay down.
Dirt nap prescribed ….Stat
Really, really painful.
Sirhr
Maggie’s Funny & awesome pics, vids and memes thread (work safe, no nudity)
- Thread starter Lawless
- Start date
Really, really painful.
Sirhr
When you can have anything you want in the world for Independence Day Dinner... But choose 'Merika.
Sirhr
Sirhr
Where can I get one? I have the perfect place.
As I always tell people who live near or have property on Caney Creek Lake, “it’s not IF it will flood in Louisiana, it’s IF it will NOT flood.” Still people insist on building homes at the 201 foot level. Caney does not have a large watershed, but yep, shel’ll flood pretty good.
This is 40 feet from our sea wall.
Our boat dock is set at 202 feet
How its supposed to look
Same burn, same finger . Fuckin sparkler got me
You’re supposed to hold on to the wire end, not the burney end.
Wasn’t mine, a 5 year old handed it to me lol
So what you were really saying is that a 5-year old got you!
Don’t blame the object for what the anklebiter did to you!
Sirhr
This one should be interesting to watch if it is a comet…. Going to be close and fast and could grow a big tail!
Found by an amateur Astronomer.
We are on a cosmic billiard table… and the cue balls strike without warning!
Cheers!
Aldi had Waygu ground beef on sale for $4.99, made burgers last night and they were pretty good.
no wonder that boat lift belt is squeeking. J/k.
So y’all remember I was “turning up” my 12v cummins a few weeks ago. I took the AFC off several times experimenting with it. The following is considered mild in that world but my results were pretty incredible.
What I ended up with:
#11 fuel plate, slid full forward. Fuel plate only is in play at full throttle and after boost is up fairly high. #11 is a safe plate, safer than factory slid forward … but still allows more fuel and boost up until the peak where it will sign off instead of sending EGT through the roof like a stock or a more aggressive plate like a #10 or zero.
Boost elbow to slow the wastegate opening. Don’t just block it, it needs to slowly open at high boost to keep your turbo from melting
AFC housing slid full forward. The main reason to slide the plate and the AFC full forward is because if you pull any of it back off, you have a reference and don’t have to start over with the fine settings.
I removed 1/8” from AFC arm barrel and removed the lip from the washer on the bellows. This allows full rack travel.
I found the stock spring is too short to control low boost if the star wheel is forward enough to make mid range torque. The spring being too short doesn’t allow the low boost control you need for fast spooling. So if you do any of this, don’t even start until you buy a longer aftermarket spring or plan to stretch yours.
Experimented with the “smoke screw” to get low boost fuel right and have a quick spool up. You have to sneak up on this by 1/8 turns but the result is awesome when you hit it.
Governor springs. Stock, the pump de-fuels starting around 2000 rpm. What this does is if you're towing, getting up to speed on a ramp, the truck falls on its face if you hold a lower gear. If you shift up there may not be enough torque to accelerate. Replace springs with 3k or 4k springs to allow the truck to make power above 2400 RPM. I used 4k because it is an auto and It would never rev that high unless I held it in gear. Valve springs are mandatory for 4k springs in a manual.
Working on this has been fun. It is amazing this fully mechanical system is so sophisticated yet simple to work on. The “P” pump is a marvel.
My truck absolutely leaps now at any RPM or boost. Smoke is minimal and only even visible at no boost heavy throttle and only a couple of seconds, more like a haze than smoke….I hate heavy smoking diesel retards.
No electronic controls yet just pulled a hand calculated 22.87 MPG …. part of which was going over Black Mountain on I40 is pretty damn incredible.
Anyway, here is a cool pic of the “brain” of a 94-98 12v, a genius brain at that.
What I ended up with:
#11 fuel plate, slid full forward. Fuel plate only is in play at full throttle and after boost is up fairly high. #11 is a safe plate, safer than factory slid forward … but still allows more fuel and boost up until the peak where it will sign off instead of sending EGT through the roof like a stock or a more aggressive plate like a #10 or zero.
Boost elbow to slow the wastegate opening. Don’t just block it, it needs to slowly open at high boost to keep your turbo from melting
AFC housing slid full forward. The main reason to slide the plate and the AFC full forward is because if you pull any of it back off, you have a reference and don’t have to start over with the fine settings.
I removed 1/8” from AFC arm barrel and removed the lip from the washer on the bellows. This allows full rack travel.
I found the stock spring is too short to control low boost if the star wheel is forward enough to make mid range torque. The spring being too short doesn’t allow the low boost control you need for fast spooling. So if you do any of this, don’t even start until you buy a longer aftermarket spring or plan to stretch yours.
Experimented with the “smoke screw” to get low boost fuel right and have a quick spool up. You have to sneak up on this by 1/8 turns but the result is awesome when you hit it.
Governor springs. Stock, the pump de-fuels starting around 2000 rpm. What this does is if you're towing, getting up to speed on a ramp, the truck falls on its face if you hold a lower gear. If you shift up there may not be enough torque to accelerate. Replace springs with 3k or 4k springs to allow the truck to make power above 2400 RPM. I used 4k because it is an auto and It would never rev that high unless I held it in gear. Valve springs are mandatory for 4k springs in a manual.
Working on this has been fun. It is amazing this fully mechanical system is so sophisticated yet simple to work on. The “P” pump is a marvel.
My truck absolutely leaps now at any RPM or boost. Smoke is minimal and only even visible at no boost heavy throttle and only a couple of seconds, more like a haze than smoke….I hate heavy smoking diesel retards.
No electronic controls yet just pulled a hand calculated 22.87 MPG …. part of which was going over Black Mountain on I40 is pretty damn incredible.
Anyway, here is a cool pic of the “brain” of a 94-98 12v, a genius brain at that.
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Well, there's your problem. There's a hole in the side of your motor. You really need some JB Weld.So y’all remember I was “turning up” my 12v cummins a few weeks ago. I took the AFC off several times experimenting with it. The following is considered mild in that world but my results were pretty incredible.
What I ended up with:
#11 fuel plate, slid full forward. Fuel plate only is in play at full throttle and after boost is up fairly high. #11 is a safe plate, safer than factory slid forward … but still allows more fuel and boost up until the peak where it will sign off instead of sending EGT through the roof like a stock or a more aggressive plate like a #10 or zero.
Boost elbow to slow the wastegate opening. Don’t just block it, it needs to slowly open at high boost to keep your turbo from melting
AFC housing slid full forward. The main reason to slide the plate and the AFC full forward is because if you pull any of it back off, you have a reference and don’t have to start over with the fine settings.
I removed 1/8” from AFC barrel (on the “foot”) and removed the lip from the washer on the bellows. This allows full rack travel.
I found the stock spring is too short to control low boost if the star wheel is forward enough to make mid range torque. The spring being too short doesn’t allow the low boost control you need for fast spooling. So if you do any of this, don’t even start until you buy a longer aftermarket spring or plan to stretch yours.
Experimented with the “smoke screw” to get low boost fuel right and have a quick spool up. You have to sneak up on this by 1/8 turns but the result is awesome when you hit it.
Governor springs. Stock, the pump de-fuels starting around 2000 rpm. What this does is if you're towing, getting up to speed on a ramp, the truck falls on its face if you hold a lower gear. If you shift up there may not be enough torque to accelerate. Replace springs with 3k or 4k springs to allow the truck to make power above 2400 RPM. I used 4k because it is an auto and It would never rev that high unless I held it in gear. Valve springs are mandatory for 4k springs in a manual.
Working on this has been fun. It is amazing this fully mechanical system is so sophisticated yet simple to work on. The “P” pump is a marvel.
My truck absolutely leaps now at any RPM or boost. Smoke is minimal and only even visible at no boost heavy throttle and only a couple of seconds, more like a haze than smoke….I hate heavy smoking diesel retards.
No electronic controls yet just pulled a hand calculated 22.87 MPG …. part of which was going over Black Mountain on I40 is pretty damn incredible.
Anyway, here is a cool pic of the “brain” of a 94-98 12v, a genius brain at that.
View attachment 8722028
You can hold the JB weld in place with some 200 mph tape while it cures.
That is darn good MPG out of a 12V
I remember watching a modded 24v getting low 20’ on the interstate after it was modded and tuned.
yep its going to smoke a little when spooling but should clear up once the turbo is lit up. As long as your egts are good. Sounds like you know what you are doing.
That is darn good MPG out of a 12V
I remember watching a modded 24v getting low 20’ on the interstate after it was modded and tuned.
Pretty amazing. Before the mods it only did just under 20MPG. More efficient on fuel/boost now I guess. Supposedly these mods are good for 100hp and 200tq, certainly feels that way.
The longer AFC spring is missed by a lot of people and those trucks smoke bad and make poor MPG.
On the power increase, any more and you start stressing many other components. Keep it about there, to level up requires a lot mo $ to stay reliable. Just my 2 cents.
