I just purchased a Ruger Gunsite in 450 Bushmaster. I cannot remove the muzzle brake. I had the barrel clamped hard in a vise. Admittedly, it was between two 2x4s but clamped down very hard. Was putting plenty of torque on it w/ an open end wrench. Hard to estimate but would guess every bit of 60 ft-lbs. Are there any tricks in removing these muzzle brakes? Called Ruger and they just said send it in, but don't want to be out of the rifle for 6 weeks.
Can't remove Muzzle Brake off of Ruger Gunsite
- Thread starter MMH
- Start date
New gun, so do not want to F it up. Maybe a propane torch just on the MB (not barrel) or is that not enough heat? Mapp gas? Would NOT want to put acetylene on it.
By shock do you mean hit the wrench w/ a 3 or 5 lbs. hammer? Cannot put impact on it.
OK, will try, but putting an open end wrench on it - not ideal for exerting great amounts of torque or impact. Will heat up MB w/ propane torch & smack MG w/ hammer. Don't care if I F'up the MB but do not want to damage the barrel. Can I really crank down the vise on the wooden blocks w/o worrying about barrel damage - it's a fairly good size vise (8" jaws mounted on a welding table).
Everyone says how gnarly the Sig MCX is.. I soaked it for 36 hours in a cup of water, it came right off! Is it Rocksett?
Don't be afraid of the heat.
Blast it with the propane torch. If it glows red it is too much.
Twist brake off. If it has a jam nut make sure to loosen that first. You will need more than 60 ft lbs. It is not uncommon to exceed 100 If the monkey really put it on well at the factory.
Shock helps.
Blast it with the propane torch. If it glows red it is too much.
Twist brake off. If it has a jam nut make sure to loosen that first. You will need more than 60 ft lbs. It is not uncommon to exceed 100 If the monkey really put it on well at the factory.
Shock helps.
I don’t have specific experience with Ruger muzzle devices, but when removing them from other guns, having the right tools for the job made things significantly easier.
Knowing you can put torque on the barrel/mb without damaging them makes it much easier.
Knowing you can put torque on the barrel/mb without damaging them makes it much easier.
I have a Ruger American Hunter .308 Win 20", came factory with fatter barrel and the brake used on RPR. Mine had the jam nut clocked perfectly with the brake's flats and I spent 15-20 mins in frustrated failure mode before I noticed it was a jam nut and brake separately. Once I noticed the two being separate I did just what you said above.
I know it's a long shot but, if it's rocksetted on, will heat even do anything? Try keeping the end in boiling water for a bit?
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