Gunsmithing Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
- Thread starter lukeyn
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Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Sounds like your ready for a nice paint job. One Thing I would recommend is you might want to invest in a water seperator. I've found if to much water is present, the finish isn't that great. I use the kind that threads at the base of the paint gun and the air fitting. Or you could sink a few more $$$ and buy the kind that mounts right out of the compressor. I also like to bake the paint after I paint it. I made me an oven that heats up to 125 degrees, out of an old cheap gun safe, and some old space heater elements. This allows you to handle the gun a little sooner. Cure time is still 3-6 weeks. Hope this helps.
Sounds like your ready for a nice paint job. One Thing I would recommend is you might want to invest in a water seperator. I've found if to much water is present, the finish isn't that great. I use the kind that threads at the base of the paint gun and the air fitting. Or you could sink a few more $$$ and buy the kind that mounts right out of the compressor. I also like to bake the paint after I paint it. I made me an oven that heats up to 125 degrees, out of an old cheap gun safe, and some old space heater elements. This allows you to handle the gun a little sooner. Cure time is still 3-6 weeks. Hope this helps.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snipehunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Planned on using a heat gun in-between coats. Also planned on using paint thinner to degrease the entire gun after we clean it with simple green. </div></div>
Dawn dish soap and some hot water might work too. Especially for those hard to reach areas, then just use compressed air to dry it and then use a degreaser.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snipehunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Planned on using a heat gun in-between coats. Also planned on using paint thinner to degrease the entire gun after we clean it with simple green. </div></div>
Dawn dish soap and some hot water might work too. Especially for those hard to reach areas, then just use compressed air to dry it and then use a degreaser.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Dont use a heat gun between coats!!!! OR AT ALL. If your doing the bottom in one color and the top in the other I am not sure why your doing 2 coats? Use 3M carb cleaner for prep and spray off with air. Make sure you have a water filter on your air line during clean and spray. Those HF guns dont work very well they spray to much to fast so be carefull or you can get runs..Also make sure you only spray on about 3 mils on the slide and lower frame area rails or you might not get the gun back together..
Dont use a heat gun between coats!!!! OR AT ALL. If your doing the bottom in one color and the top in the other I am not sure why your doing 2 coats? Use 3M carb cleaner for prep and spray off with air. Make sure you have a water filter on your air line during clean and spray. Those HF guns dont work very well they spray to much to fast so be carefull or you can get runs..Also make sure you only spray on about 3 mils on the slide and lower frame area rails or you might not get the gun back together..
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Though not required per lauer, roughing up the surface (I blast with aluminum oxide) will give you better adhesion, parkerizing prior to is good as well, do not use any cleaner that will leave anything behind, I use acetone usually for final clean prior to application. Do not touch with your Hands after it is clean, wear rubber gloves. Spraying several thin coats is better than 1 or 2 heavy ones, I don't do anything between coats, just wait a short time for it to flash off, + 1 on the water trap on you're set up.
Either mask off or go very lighty on tight fitting components, if you coat them as opposed to masking them, go light, you may have to work those parts to get them functioning like normal, basically have to wear them in.
Look under my user name in the photo section for guns I have done including my own 1911
Though not required per lauer, roughing up the surface (I blast with aluminum oxide) will give you better adhesion, parkerizing prior to is good as well, do not use any cleaner that will leave anything behind, I use acetone usually for final clean prior to application. Do not touch with your Hands after it is clean, wear rubber gloves. Spraying several thin coats is better than 1 or 2 heavy ones, I don't do anything between coats, just wait a short time for it to flash off, + 1 on the water trap on you're set up.
Either mask off or go very lighty on tight fitting components, if you coat them as opposed to masking them, go light, you may have to work those parts to get them functioning like normal, basically have to wear them in.
Look under my user name in the photo section for guns I have done including my own 1911
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Thanks guys, I scratched the heat gun, I have some carb cleaner that I will use for the final de-grease. Thanks for the advice. Plan on spraying the lower in dark earth, top in black. Both in duracoat tactical series. Below is the spray gun I have coming in the mail. I started prepping the surface tonight with 600 grit sandpaper and paint thinner. Let me know if I'm on the right track.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html
Thanks guys, I scratched the heat gun, I have some carb cleaner that I will use for the final de-grease. Thanks for the advice. Plan on spraying the lower in dark earth, top in black. Both in duracoat tactical series. Below is the spray gun I have coming in the mail. I started prepping the surface tonight with 600 grit sandpaper and paint thinner. Let me know if I'm on the right track.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
What finish is on your gun now. use acitone to prep the
duracoat does need to bake to cure it. for the best resaults pre heat the parts for ten minutes at 200 his will insure no runs and is recomended by duracoat. you will get better covrage also,prior to baking you can remove any mistakes with the acitone. if you do not bake it will flake off and if you carry it in a kydex holster the finish will not hold up if carryed daily.
What finish is on your gun now. use acitone to prep the
duracoat does need to bake to cure it. for the best resaults pre heat the parts for ten minutes at 200 his will insure no runs and is recomended by duracoat. you will get better covrage also,prior to baking you can remove any mistakes with the acitone. if you do not bake it will flake off and if you carry it in a kydex holster the finish will not hold up if carryed daily.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1911Pimp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What finish is on your gun now. use acitone to prep the
duracoat does need to bake to cure it. for the best resaults pre heat the parts for ten minutes at 200 his will insure no runs and is <span style="color: #FF0000">recomended by duracoat.</span> you will get better covrage also,prior to baking you can remove any mistakes with the acitone. if you do not bake it will flake off and if you carry it in a kydex holster the finish will not hold up if carryed daily.
</div></div>
Do not listen to what he has to say since he doesn't know what Duracoat would say to do. DO not bake it to warm it up for painting the best is when it is room temp. (Duracoat) says not to paint while warm. I will not run anyways if you are spraying it right. You will not get better coverage at all from doing this. If you do it right it will not come off. I carried one for three years every single day rubbing against velcro and the finish was still like new. If you do it right unlike the guy above you will have good success. Just don't follow stupid advice. Baking speeds up the process but it does not make it any stronger.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1911Pimp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What finish is on your gun now. use acitone to prep the
duracoat does need to bake to cure it. for the best resaults pre heat the parts for ten minutes at 200 his will insure no runs and is <span style="color: #FF0000">recomended by duracoat.</span> you will get better covrage also,prior to baking you can remove any mistakes with the acitone. if you do not bake it will flake off and if you carry it in a kydex holster the finish will not hold up if carryed daily.
</div></div>
Do not listen to what he has to say since he doesn't know what Duracoat would say to do. DO not bake it to warm it up for painting the best is when it is room temp. (Duracoat) says not to paint while warm. I will not run anyways if you are spraying it right. You will not get better coverage at all from doing this. If you do it right it will not come off. I carried one for three years every single day rubbing against velcro and the finish was still like new. If you do it right unlike the guy above you will have good success. Just don't follow stupid advice. Baking speeds up the process but it does not make it any stronger.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
I do appoligize for giving you wrong advise. the direction i gave was for kg guncoat Prepare, clean and pre-heat your part to 100°, spray on Brownells GUN-KOTE and allow the part to dry. Bake the part in an oven at 300° for one hour and you’re done. You’ve protected the metal parts of your valuable firearm from rust, corrosion, and scratches with a beautiful finish that will wear for years and help keep your gun looking just like new.   
as for wear on the durcoat and kg coating they both will wear off if you use kydex.....Thats not velcro. This opinion is not based on one gun I coated. I have carried a 1911 for thae past 10 years the job not in a safe and the only thing that will hold up to actual use is hard crome yes old school but works. Iam not trying to be a dick but just because i assume You will treat your gun like the tool it is and not a safe queen. agian i appoligize for the bad advise i gave, i was thinking of kg gun kote.
Mr. strangedays
I do appoligize for giving you wrong advise. the direction i gave was for kg guncoat Prepare, clean and pre-heat your part to 100°, spray on Brownells GUN-KOTE and allow the part to dry. Bake the part in an oven at 300° for one hour and you’re done. You’ve protected the metal parts of your valuable firearm from rust, corrosion, and scratches with a beautiful finish that will wear for years and help keep your gun looking just like new.   
as for wear on the durcoat and kg coating they both will wear off if you use kydex.....Thats not velcro. This opinion is not based on one gun I coated. I have carried a 1911 for thae past 10 years the job not in a safe and the only thing that will hold up to actual use is hard crome yes old school but works. Iam not trying to be a dick but just because i assume You will treat your gun like the tool it is and not a safe queen. agian i appoligize for the bad advise i gave, i was thinking of kg gun kote.
Mr. strangedays
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1911Pimp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do appoligize for giving you wrong advise. the direction i gave was for kg guncoat Prepare, clean and pre-heat your part to 100°, spray on Brownells GUN-KOTE and allow the part to dry. Bake the part in an oven at 300° for one hour and you’re done. You’ve protected the metal parts of your valuable firearm from rust, corrosion, and scratches with a beautiful finish that will wear for years and help keep your gun looking just like new.   
as for wear on the durcoat and kg coating they both will wear off if you use kydex.....Thats not velcro. This opinion is not based on one gun I coated. I have carried a 1911 for thae past 10 years the job not in a safe and the only thing that will hold up to actual use is hard crome yes old school but works. Iam not trying to be a dick but just because i assume You will treat your gun like the tool it is and not a safe queen. agian i appoligize for the bad advise i gave, i was thinking of kg gun kote.
Mr. strangedays
</div></div>
That would make more sense, we all get mixed up sometimes. I have a kydex holster I use for carry and competition which a duracoated gun also goes into (Kydex Crossbread holster and a safariland) the safariland does have a soft material on the inside to prevent this. I have no holster signes on my handgun after 1000s of draws so maybe its the holster also that might rub more. Thanks for clearing that up and take care.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1911Pimp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do appoligize for giving you wrong advise. the direction i gave was for kg guncoat Prepare, clean and pre-heat your part to 100°, spray on Brownells GUN-KOTE and allow the part to dry. Bake the part in an oven at 300° for one hour and you’re done. You’ve protected the metal parts of your valuable firearm from rust, corrosion, and scratches with a beautiful finish that will wear for years and help keep your gun looking just like new.   
as for wear on the durcoat and kg coating they both will wear off if you use kydex.....Thats not velcro. This opinion is not based on one gun I coated. I have carried a 1911 for thae past 10 years the job not in a safe and the only thing that will hold up to actual use is hard crome yes old school but works. Iam not trying to be a dick but just because i assume You will treat your gun like the tool it is and not a safe queen. agian i appoligize for the bad advise i gave, i was thinking of kg gun kote.
Mr. strangedays
</div></div>
That would make more sense, we all get mixed up sometimes. I have a kydex holster I use for carry and competition which a duracoated gun also goes into (Kydex Crossbread holster and a safariland) the safariland does have a soft material on the inside to prevent this. I have no holster signes on my handgun after 1000s of draws so maybe its the holster also that might rub more. Thanks for clearing that up and take care.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Yes i agree the holsters are for duty and fit much different then off duty or comp holsters. i will read twice and .wright once in the future
Yes i agree the holsters are for duty and fit much different then off duty or comp holsters. i will read twice and .wright once in the future
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Best case.... Disassemble, degrease with brake cleaner, blast with 120 alum ox @ 50 psi, blow off parts with air. Mix DuraCoat, 1tblspn. color to 1/4tsp. hardner. Spray with double action airbrush (Paashe Vl) @ 45psi. Several light coats until even color. Let cure at least 24 hrs before reassembly.
Metal prep is everything.
Best case.... Disassemble, degrease with brake cleaner, blast with 120 alum ox @ 50 psi, blow off parts with air. Mix DuraCoat, 1tblspn. color to 1/4tsp. hardner. Spray with double action airbrush (Paashe Vl) @ 45psi. Several light coats until even color. Let cure at least 24 hrs before reassembly.
Metal prep is everything.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Most paint companies state that paint application's preferred temperature is 75 degrees ambient. This will help in your aplication drying time. Please use the correct temperature reducer for the correct temp. Meaning, don't use reducer designed for use at 90 degrees when it is 65 degrees where you are spraying. As for your gun selection, any will work fine. You only need it for atomization. Pressure vs pattern is the key. Whatever pressure you use at the inlet gauge (28 to 42PSI) try and set the pattern. Get you a piece of masking paper or a cardboard box and you want a (roughly) 2" wide by 6 to 8" tall pattern of spray on the paper, the gun will be 8 to 10" from the paper and you will pull the trigger fully to achieve the 2" x 8" pattern. You will probably need to adjust the fan control knob and the air pressure until you get this pattern before spraying your intended target. The smaller the droplets of paint(atomization) the less likely you will run the product. Medium to slightly wet coats. Not too heavy, it will run and increase drying times. If you need to two coat, my recommendation would be,apply the first coat and wait until hand slick (touch an area that won't show) it will be tacky but shouldn't string. Usually 15 to 20 min. Then apply second coat if needed. If you do need a second coat, make sure to apply to all the surfaces that you applied it to the first time and not less as you will have a "dry sprayed" area. Allow to dry per the instruction on the PDS for your product (Product Data Sheet) it can be found on their website. As for the prep work, cleanliness is next to godliness. This is not your balls so clean it, then clean it again. The posts above using the carb or brake cleaner and sanding with some type of abrasive is correct. Did I mention cleaning???? Tommy
Most paint companies state that paint application's preferred temperature is 75 degrees ambient. This will help in your aplication drying time. Please use the correct temperature reducer for the correct temp. Meaning, don't use reducer designed for use at 90 degrees when it is 65 degrees where you are spraying. As for your gun selection, any will work fine. You only need it for atomization. Pressure vs pattern is the key. Whatever pressure you use at the inlet gauge (28 to 42PSI) try and set the pattern. Get you a piece of masking paper or a cardboard box and you want a (roughly) 2" wide by 6 to 8" tall pattern of spray on the paper, the gun will be 8 to 10" from the paper and you will pull the trigger fully to achieve the 2" x 8" pattern. You will probably need to adjust the fan control knob and the air pressure until you get this pattern before spraying your intended target. The smaller the droplets of paint(atomization) the less likely you will run the product. Medium to slightly wet coats. Not too heavy, it will run and increase drying times. If you need to two coat, my recommendation would be,apply the first coat and wait until hand slick (touch an area that won't show) it will be tacky but shouldn't string. Usually 15 to 20 min. Then apply second coat if needed. If you do need a second coat, make sure to apply to all the surfaces that you applied it to the first time and not less as you will have a "dry sprayed" area. Allow to dry per the instruction on the PDS for your product (Product Data Sheet) it can be found on their website. As for the prep work, cleanliness is next to godliness. This is not your balls so clean it, then clean it again. The posts above using the carb or brake cleaner and sanding with some type of abrasive is correct. Did I mention cleaning???? Tommy
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
If you need any assistance, PM me and I will give you my phone number. I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night! Actually, I have been in the automotive paint industry for......... hell, I can't remember doing anything else. Thanks Tommy
If you need any assistance, PM me and I will give you my phone number. I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night! Actually, I have been in the automotive paint industry for......... hell, I can't remember doing anything else. Thanks Tommy
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Looks great. I'm thinking of doing a tan frame with a black slide soon.
Looks great. I'm thinking of doing a tan frame with a black slide soon.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
The gun looks good snipe. How did that air brush from harbor freight work? I just ordered on today. Also, did you blast your parts or just rough them up with sandpaper? My gun is a sps stainless and Remington says the barrelis bead blasted but I don't know if I need to ruff it up even more?
The gun looks good snipe. How did that air brush from harbor freight work? I just ordered on today. Also, did you blast your parts or just rough them up with sandpaper? My gun is a sps stainless and Remington says the barrelis bead blasted but I don't know if I need to ruff it up even more?
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
The airbrush worked pretty good once I got the psi and pull figured out. you will need to adjust the need to get more flow, or atleast that was my case. I pushed it at a little under 40 psi. I didnt blast it at all, just used 600 grit sandpaper and some carb cleaner. I made sure i wore medical gloves the whole time. Carb cleaner ate through them a few times. I had paint thinner and tried cleaning the gun with that, but its just gummed it up. Carb cleaner is definitely the way to go.
The airbrush worked pretty good once I got the psi and pull figured out. you will need to adjust the need to get more flow, or atleast that was my case. I pushed it at a little under 40 psi. I didnt blast it at all, just used 600 grit sandpaper and some carb cleaner. I made sure i wore medical gloves the whole time. Carb cleaner ate through them a few times. I had paint thinner and tried cleaning the gun with that, but its just gummed it up. Carb cleaner is definitely the way to go.
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Use an Airbrush or a Sata mini-jet style with a .8 head or smaller if possible. The smaller head and cap on any gun will get the atomization needed for a finer but even coat/coats.
If you have access to a media blaster that is great but if not 600 grit and a little elbow grease(with gloves) is the ticket. and the carb cleaner and compressed air for a blow dry.Again clean, clean, and clean again and you too can make your tactical weapon of choice look just like snipehunter's gun. Good luck and no huffin the compressed air
Use an Airbrush or a Sata mini-jet style with a .8 head or smaller if possible. The smaller head and cap on any gun will get the atomization needed for a finer but even coat/coats.
If you have access to a media blaster that is great but if not 600 grit and a little elbow grease(with gloves) is the ticket. and the carb cleaner and compressed air for a blow dry.Again clean, clean, and clean again and you too can make your tactical weapon of choice look just like snipehunter's gun. Good luck and no huffin the compressed air
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
my gunsmith came up with this, duracoat, in the right hands is awsome
my gunsmith came up with this, duracoat, in the right hands is awsome
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jplemieux</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my gunsmith came up with this, duracoat, in the right hands is awsome
</div></div>
THAT is super cool!!! That'd be a great idea for a raffle gun for a troops fundraiser!! At least I think it'd be appropriate!
NICELY DONE!!! Thanks for sharing!
-G45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jplemieux</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my gunsmith came up with this, duracoat, in the right hands is awsome
THAT is super cool!!! That'd be a great idea for a raffle gun for a troops fundraiser!! At least I think it'd be appropriate!
NICELY DONE!!! Thanks for sharing!
-G45
Re: Duracoating my 1911, Any tips.
Your color scheme reminded me a lot of mine - 1953 Colt Commander Light weight that my grandfather gave me. The anodizing was very nicked up so I figured I'd modernize it with the help of my gunsmith. I did the light melt, flared ejection port, countersunk slide stop hole and Ed Brown beavertail - he took care of the hard stuff and duracoating. I forget exactly what color black he used, but the frame was Magpul Flat Dark Earth with a black speckle:
Before:
After:
Your color scheme reminded me a lot of mine - 1953 Colt Commander Light weight that my grandfather gave me. The anodizing was very nicked up so I figured I'd modernize it with the help of my gunsmith. I did the light melt, flared ejection port, countersunk slide stop hole and Ed Brown beavertail - he took care of the hard stuff and duracoating. I forget exactly what color black he used, but the frame was Magpul Flat Dark Earth with a black speckle:
Before:
After:
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