I know i'm a newb and i am probably over looking something, but i have been searching for a step by step dura coat write up. Can anyone point me in the right direction I would really like to learn how to do it right.
Gunsmithing Newb duracoat question
- Thread starter Deadlyassassin67
- Start date
Re: Newb duracoat question
Here just for you:
http://www.shootingvoodoo.com/index.php/articles/duracoat_painting_made_easy/
I've been using DuraCoat finishes for a few years now and have been more than satisfied with the results. My bolt gun is holding up well, there's some wear in high wear areas like in the muzzle and ejection port but other than that it still looks good. I just recently did my AR and I'm really happy with how that turned out.
The AR:
IMO DuraCoat is great for the guy just getting into refinishing firearms and accessories because it's easy to work with and if you mess up not all that hard to correct. I can paint a rifle in my basement and reassemble everything a few hours later and then go shoot the next day if I really wanted to. It fully cures in two weeks depending on conditions but I've seen no adverse effects to using the firearms earlier than that. Hope all of that helps and good luck.
Here just for you:
http://www.shootingvoodoo.com/index.php/articles/duracoat_painting_made_easy/
I've been using DuraCoat finishes for a few years now and have been more than satisfied with the results. My bolt gun is holding up well, there's some wear in high wear areas like in the muzzle and ejection port but other than that it still looks good. I just recently did my AR and I'm really happy with how that turned out.
The AR:
IMO DuraCoat is great for the guy just getting into refinishing firearms and accessories because it's easy to work with and if you mess up not all that hard to correct. I can paint a rifle in my basement and reassemble everything a few hours later and then go shoot the next day if I really wanted to. It fully cures in two weeks depending on conditions but I've seen no adverse effects to using the firearms earlier than that. Hope all of that helps and good luck.
Re: Newb duracoat question
Thank you trigger monkey you have been a lot of help. excellent write up, dose it matter if you use an airbrush because I have at least 6 with nothing to do with them????
Thank you trigger monkey you have been a lot of help. excellent write up, dose it matter if you use an airbrush because I have at least 6 with nothing to do with them????
Re: Newb duracoat question
No a lot of guys use an airbrush with DuraCoat with excellent results. I use the preval sprayers because I can't justify the cost in getting an airbrush and compressor vs how often I'd use it.
No a lot of guys use an airbrush with DuraCoat with excellent results. I use the preval sprayers because I can't justify the cost in getting an airbrush and compressor vs how often I'd use it.
Re: Newb duracoat question
Trigger Monkey,
As you stated, Duracoat is your thing. Do you have any experience with Cerakote. Particularly, the air cure stuff.
I have also looked at Brownells Aluma-hyde.
I want to delve into a dedicated finish, just wanted some firsthand knowledge. I have rattle canned a stock, and really wished I had used a nicer product. The prep work is the hardest part.
I don't know if it is really worth it for me to buy a spray gun, etc. to apply the coating. Basically, I want better than spray paint, but really easy? Is Duracoat the way to go?
Trigger Monkey,
As you stated, Duracoat is your thing. Do you have any experience with Cerakote. Particularly, the air cure stuff.
I have also looked at Brownells Aluma-hyde.
I want to delve into a dedicated finish, just wanted some firsthand knowledge. I have rattle canned a stock, and really wished I had used a nicer product. The prep work is the hardest part.
I don't know if it is really worth it for me to buy a spray gun, etc. to apply the coating. Basically, I want better than spray paint, but really easy? Is Duracoat the way to go?
Re: Newb duracoat question
Nope, I've never messed with the aircure Cerakote so I can't really make any valid comparisons. I do have experience with the Aluma-Hyde paints and IMO it was less than stellar the two times I used it. It was easy enough to apply but good grief did it take forever to dry and cure to the point I could use it. It's been a while since I've used the Aluma-Hyde but I want to say it was several days before I could touch it and then another week or so before I was sure it was fully cured.
You don't have to invest in a spray gun and compressor to refinish your rifles, I don't have any of that and have done several stocks, barreled actions, and accessories. If you check out the DuraCoat Shake n' Spray kit, it provides a lot of the tools I listed in my article in one ready to go package. Funny how it came out after my article...just sayin....
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=929
YouTube video to show about how easy it really is
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Nope, I've never messed with the aircure Cerakote so I can't really make any valid comparisons. I do have experience with the Aluma-Hyde paints and IMO it was less than stellar the two times I used it. It was easy enough to apply but good grief did it take forever to dry and cure to the point I could use it. It's been a while since I've used the Aluma-Hyde but I want to say it was several days before I could touch it and then another week or so before I was sure it was fully cured.
You don't have to invest in a spray gun and compressor to refinish your rifles, I don't have any of that and have done several stocks, barreled actions, and accessories. If you check out the DuraCoat Shake n' Spray kit, it provides a lot of the tools I listed in my article in one ready to go package. Funny how it came out after my article...just sayin....
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=929
YouTube video to show about how easy it really is
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/co70MNG6JiU"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/co70MNG6JiU" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Re: Newb duracoat question
That is great.. a self contained sprayer. Probably worlds improved over a spray can nozzle that flicks little globs of paint when you least expect it.
How long is the Duracoat good for once mixed? How long will the propellant last in the sprayer?
Also, is the Duracoat thick enough to effect the tolerances of the rail, action screws, etc.
Is an anodized but clean surface sufficient for the stuff to bond. The picatinny rail looks like a nightmare to prep. Unless media blasted and then that gets back into a not so easy project...
That is great.. a self contained sprayer. Probably worlds improved over a spray can nozzle that flicks little globs of paint when you least expect it.
How long is the Duracoat good for once mixed? How long will the propellant last in the sprayer?
Also, is the Duracoat thick enough to effect the tolerances of the rail, action screws, etc.
Is an anodized but clean surface sufficient for the stuff to bond. The picatinny rail looks like a nightmare to prep. Unless media blasted and then that gets back into a not so easy project...
Re: Newb duracoat question
Once mixed I'd say you only have a couple hours at most given that you just mixed the two components (paint and hardener) together. I have no idea how long the propellant will last in the sprayer but I do know that's there enough for me to exhaust all of a 4 oz bottle.
DuraCoat will build up a little but I haven't had any issues with it interfering with the specs on mounting rails or the bedding in my stock.
Hard anodized and phosphated surfaces are great for DuraCoat because these processes create a microscopic textured surface for the paint to adhere to. When I did the LaRue rail on the AR I basically just degreased it, scuffed it up a little with 600 grit sandpaper, and coated it. The devil is in the details and the prep work will always be the hardest most time consuming part of a refinishing job but the end result will usually be worth it.
Once mixed I'd say you only have a couple hours at most given that you just mixed the two components (paint and hardener) together. I have no idea how long the propellant will last in the sprayer but I do know that's there enough for me to exhaust all of a 4 oz bottle.
DuraCoat will build up a little but I haven't had any issues with it interfering with the specs on mounting rails or the bedding in my stock.
Hard anodized and phosphated surfaces are great for DuraCoat because these processes create a microscopic textured surface for the paint to adhere to. When I did the LaRue rail on the AR I basically just degreased it, scuffed it up a little with 600 grit sandpaper, and coated it. The devil is in the details and the prep work will always be the hardest most time consuming part of a refinishing job but the end result will usually be worth it.
Re: Newb duracoat question
If you have a air compressor you can use a small HVLP gun from Lowes and KG Gun Kote. A small blasting cabinet would help as well. KG makes a air cure, oven cure and even a ceramic fill. I like the 2400 series for most stuff. Cerakote is great but you have to mix it and it's fairly expensive if your new to painting. Duracoat is crap, IMO. YMMV.
If you have a air compressor you can use a small HVLP gun from Lowes and KG Gun Kote. A small blasting cabinet would help as well. KG makes a air cure, oven cure and even a ceramic fill. I like the 2400 series for most stuff. Cerakote is great but you have to mix it and it's fairly expensive if your new to painting. Duracoat is crap, IMO. YMMV.
Re: Newb duracoat question
"Duracoat is crap". O.k. Fill me in on exactly what formed this opinion. Generalizations about any product don't do much to help others make an informed decision.
"Duracoat is crap". O.k. Fill me in on exactly what formed this opinion. Generalizations about any product don't do much to help others make an informed decision.
