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Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

LongArm

Problem Solver
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 30, 2007
1,206
21
Corpus Christi, Texas
Ok, so after searching high and low for info on bedding AR15's and AR10/LR308's I decided to do my own post/review. I know there is alot of talk about it not helping the accuracy. This was not really for accuracy. I like my rifle to be tight and solid feeling. It is a personal thing. I have a touch of OCD when it comes to this. I understand that it probably will not help accuracy.

So after searching here I read somewhere that it is better to bed the upper action so that the lower can be used with multiple upper actions with out issues. That seemed very smart to me. For this post/review I will be bedding a Bushmaster (made by DPMS) LR308 ORC.

2012-06-08184459.jpg


Before doing this mod I had already changed some things on the rifle. Mods are as follows
Trijicon 2.5-10X56
LaRue Mount
Magpul UBR stock
Magpul Moe forearm
Magpul Moe grip and winter trigger guard
Geissele SDE 3.5lbs trigger
Tubbs BCG carrier weight sys
Tubbs SSS flat wire spring

2012-06-23220942.jpg


1. I took the upper and lower and cleaned them both. I removed the BCG and the charging handle.

2012-06-23231405.jpg


2. I got some play-doh and covered the firing control group and the safety, leaving only the small but over sized area where the rear lug would go.

2012-06-23231050.jpg


2012-06-23231037.jpg



3. I took the lower action and applied a copious amount of Johnson's paste wax to every area I thought that might get contacted by the marine-tex, even over the play-doh areas. Refer to the above pictures.

This rifle is a new Bushmaster (made by DPMS) LR308 ORC. The 308's are designed in a way that gives a lot of area to put bedding on without needing it to go down around the rear lug. I was getting some sideways shift so I decided to do the rear lug area as well as the flats on the lower/upper.

I put some wax in the rear and front lug pin holes, the outside edges of the both the lower and upper to prevent the marine-tex from sticking to the metal. Basically anywhere you think that you do not want the bedding put wax there.

4. I mixed the marine-tex bedding 5 to 1 ratio and then put it on the upper on the flats (bottom side where it meets the lower receiver) and around the rear lug area and a small amount on the front lug area for shits and gig's. I did not take pictures of this because I did not think about it. I put enough on the flats but was a little short on the rear lug area. Not to short on the rear lug but it could have used more on the sides and the bottom to get a complete fill. I was afraid of it getting up into the buffer tube threads when squeezed together. The bedding went all the way up to the threads of the buffer tube but not into it. I think that had more to do with putting it on the sides/flats then in the lug area.

5. I wanted to make sure that the gap I had felt in the lower/upper fit was filled with bedding so I basically let the lower hand off the upper action when assembled and curing. Make sure not to slam the upper/lower closed when putting them together or it will squeeze out all of the bedding.

Notice the high speed set up I have. Yes state of the art mechanics. Very high speed low drag shit here, only for the advanced.

2012-06-24003106.jpg


I then I took a million Q-tips and soaked them in WD-40 and started to clean off the excess bedding that had run out of the sides. This process is easy just take your time and use as many q-tips as you need they are cheap. I think that this process also helps push some of the bedding back into the gaps to make sure they are filled. Again no pictures, sorry I know this review is starting to suck ( cause if when I read reviews I want pictures!!)

6. I waited until the left over bedding in the paper plate I used was hard (approx 5 hours) before I attempted to separate the upper from the lower. I was scared that the pins would not come out (remember the copious amounts of wax?) but they came right out. The upper/lower did not come apart right away so I took the barrel in one hand and the stock in the other and hit it on my thigh like I was breaking a stick and it came right apart (on the second try). I then placed the upper on my high-end custom rifle fixture and let it finish curing until morning before re-assembling it.

Here are some pics of the final finish.

2012-06-24032831.jpg

2012-06-24032815.jpg

2012-06-24032741.jpg


I truly am sorry about the cell phone pics, I was just sending them out to some buds when I had the thought of doing a review type post. I will update the post with pics and a review of how the rifle shoots after it. There have been many mods done at the same time so I will not be able to say that the bedding was the key to accuracy. I can definitely tell you that after feeling it with the bedding it feels like a different rifle to me, it feels well built. Like I said I am picky about the fit on rifles regardless of the accuracy. Over all this was a very easy job. I will definitely do it again when needed.

<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">When I do this again I would put the bedding inside the lower for the rear lug, instead of globing it on the rear lug itself of the upper. I would still put the bedding on the flats of the upper where it meets the lower. Globing the bedding on the rear lug is hit or miss if you get enough on there or in the right place to work. That's one of the things I'd change about this process. The other would be to scuff the surface of the upper where the bedding is going. The bedding is not peeling off nor do I think it will but scuffing it would insure that didn't happen.</span></span>



Here is the last crappy cell phone pic of the post.

2012-06-25171114.jpg
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Interesting process. Let us know how it shoots. Then let us know how it shoots with a free float hand guard. I'm not knocking your choice of hand guard (personal preference) I believe that the fewer things touching the barrel, the better accuracy.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I agree on the free floating of the hand guards. I want a troy extreme. I am saving up the fetta for it. I got the MOE hand guard for cheap here to hold me over. The MOE is wedged in there tight, it feels great but I am sure its not good for accuracy, lol. Free float is coming soon. I am now gonna shoot it to see if the Tubbs systems will tame the over gassed DI by keeping the bolt locked longer.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I used a much simpler approach to remove all play between upper and lower receiver. I replaced the front push pin with a precision ground bolt and acorn nut. You have to file a small flat spot so the bolt fits into where the flat on the push pin went. It puts a wee bit of pressure on the pivot pin area, and thus removes any play between upper and lower receiver. Then the rifle locks up like a vault. The bolts are available at almost any hardware store for around $2-3 for bolt and nut. Put a washer between the nut and the receiver to keep the nut from scuffing the receiver.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Unknown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used a much simpler approach to remove all play between upper and lower receiver. I replaced the front push pin with a precision ground bolt and acorn nut. You have to file a small flat spot so the bolt fits into where the flat on the push pin went. It puts a wee bit of pressure on the pivot pin area, and thus removes any play between upper and lower receiver. Then the rifle locks up like a vault. The bolts are available at almost any hardware store for around $2-3 for bolt and nut. Put a washer between the nut and the receiver to keep the nut from scuffing the receiver. </div></div>

do you have any pictures?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I'm really confused. Bedding an AR? That's a first for me.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Not to confusing. If you read the first post you'd know it was done to take away the wiggle between the two.Yes there are other ways to do it. This is how I choose to do it.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I would like to know what happens to the marine TEX after hard use of the weapon? Flakes off I would bet.A big chip of marine TEX in the trigger would have what effect? And why if you are worried about the fit in a AR go have it professedly welded and re-machined? I think allot of AR owners are really going overboard these days.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Just asking here...

On an AR, the scope is attached to the upper with barrel and bolt included' hence the idea that upper lower fit doesnt matter.

Is seems very similar to the way a scope is attached to a barreled action in a bolt action though. Yet on bolt actions conventional wisdom says proper bedding matters. Free floating is the same concept on either, not talking about that.

Why would it not matter on an AR?

Again I'm just asking... for a technical explanation.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ShrockWorks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just asking here...

On an AR, the scope is attached to the upper with barrel and bolt included' hence the idea that upper lower fit doesnt matter.

Is seems very similar to the way a scope is attached to a barreled action in a bolt action though. Yet on bolt actions conventional wisdom says proper bedding matters. Free floating is the same concept on either, not talking about that.

Why would it not matter on an AR?

Again I'm just asking... for a technical explanation. </div></div>
I was just thinking the same thing..
but some one poorly explained it to me as the lower on an AR is like a chassis system for a bolt gun, no bedding required.
Why don't chassis need bedding too?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I've heard from several places that loose stocks can be a problem with accuracy.

I KNOW from personal experience that *I* can be a problem if I am not interacting with the gun the exact same way each shot: body position, breathing, cheek weld etc. All the people in the know seem to agree that gas guns are more finicky about these things we call the "fundamendals".

So why then does an upper flopping around on a lower randomly make no difference?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would like to know what happens to the marine TEX after hard use of the weapon? Flakes off I would bet.A big chip of marine TEX in the trigger would have what effect? </div></div> <span style="font-weight: bold"> Are you asking a question or making a statement? If it was a question then probably the same effect it would have on any rifle that is bedded.</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And why if you are worried about the fit in a AR go have it professedly welded and re-machined?</div></div> <span style="font-weight: bold">Because I don't have to. I can do things for my self.</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think allot of AR owners are really going overboard these days. </div></div><span style="font-weight: bold">Yes just like bolt action guys that bed their stocks, true their actions, lap the lugs, tune the triggers, bed the scope rails, change the firing pin and springs and replace the stocks, add DBM and bi-pods, add scope levels etc...</span>
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<span style="font-weight: bold">Re-read the first post. I did it because I wanted to. I did it because I could. I did it because I could not find much info on how it was done. It now has no slop or flakes in the trigger. "AR owners are really going overboard these days". If doing your own work before taking and paying money to have some one do it is over board. If trying different things to solve an unwanted issue is over board to you, then yes AR owners really are going overboard. </span>

<span style="font-size: 17pt"><span style="color: #660000">READ #12 and then tell the people the man who wrote it is really going overboard these days.</span></span>

"There are a lot of things that can be done to an AR to enhance consistent accuracy, and I use the words "consistent accuracy" because consistency is a part of it (i.e. plenty of guns will give a couple great five shot groups with a break in between but won't do a very good 10 or 20 shot groups, and some guns will shoot great one day and not so good on others).

Some items we think are important:

1. A premium barrel, well machined with a good crown and a match type chambering, true to the bore and well cut, with the extension threads also cut true to the bore, and everything true and in proper alignment.
2. A gas block that does not impose pointed stress on the barrel (i.e. clamp on types that grab all the way around the barrel are excellent). The blocks that are pinned on with tapered pins that wedge against the barrel or the slip on type of block with set screws that push up from underneath (or directly on the barrel) can deform the bore inside of the barrel and can wreck the accuracy of an otherwise great barrel.
3. A heavy walled rigid upper receiver. The typical AR upper receiver was made for a lightweight carry rifle and they stripped all the metal they could off it to make it light to carry around all day (i.e. advantageous in military setting). The net result are upper receivers that are so thin you can flex them with your bare hands - they're strong but flexible strong - but not ideal for accuracy which does better with a more rigid upper receiver.
4. Truing the face of the receiver. Some may argue this point but it is always best to keep everything related to the barrel and the bore in complete alingment with the bore (i.e. barrel extension, bolt, upper receiver, carrier, etc.).
5. Loctite or glue in the barrel extension into upper receiver. This holds it in place all the way front to back in the upper receiver, otherwise if there is any play (and there typically is) it just hangs on the face of the upper receiver completely dependent on the face of the upper receiver as the sole source of support for the barrel as opposed to being made more an integral part of the uppper receiver by being glued in.
6. A rigid free float hand guard (and I emphasize the word rigid). There are many free float hand guards and a free float hand guard is in and of itself is a huge improvement over a non free float set up, but best is a rigid set up. Some of the ones on the market are small diameter, thin and/or flexible and if you are shooting off any type of rest, bipod, front bag, etc., a rigid forend is best since AR's want to jump, bounce and twist when you let a shot go, as the carrier starts to begin it's cycle before the bullet exits the bore.
7. Some meat on the barrel. Between the upper receiver and the gas block don't go real thin with a barrel (we like 1" diameter if it's workable weight wise). When you touch off a round and the bullet passes the gas port the gas system immediately starts pressuring up with a gas impulse that provides vibrations and stress on the barrel, especially between the gas block back to the receiver, a heavier barrel here dampens that. Correspondingly staying a little heavier with barrel contour through the gas block area and out to the muzzle is good for the same reasons. AR's have a lot going on when you touch off a round and the gas system pressures up and the carrier starts moving (all before the bullet exits the bore) so the more things are made a bit heavier and rigid to counteract that the better - up to a point of reasonableness of course).
8. A gas tube that runs freely through the barrel nut and through the front of the upper receiver and through the gas key in the carrier is not impinged by any of them so that it does not load the carrier in a stressed orientation, nor is it bound up so that when the gas tube pressures up it immediately wants to transmit more force and impulse to the barrel than would normally occur. We spend a lot of time sometimes taking the gas block with gas tube on and off "new build" uppers and "tweaking" gas tubes to get that best (and most gas tubes need a little "tweaking" to get them right - factory tubes go in and they work but they are typically not optimum without hand fitting).
9. Not over porting the gas port. Being over gassed makes the gas system pressure up earlier and more aggressively leading to more impulse, forces and vibration to the top end and barrel. Do what you need to function properly and adequately but no more.
10. Front/Back bolt play (keep it .003" but no more than .005"). If accuracy is the game, don't leave a lot of front back bolt play. We've seen factory rifles run .012" to .015", which is o.k. if you need to leave room for dirt, grung, etc. like in a military setting out in the field, but not ideal for an accuracy build up. A lot of front/back bolt play makes it so rounds can be hammered into the chamber and actually re-sized and re-formed in a non-consistent way as they are loaded into the chamber.
11. Use good parts from a reputable source and watch out with "gun show" specials. All parts are not the same, some are good and some are not so good, and some after market parts are not only not good, they are bad. Don't be afraid to use a mil spec type carrier either, by and large they are excellent for an acccuracy build up, and just because a carrier says "national match" or something else on it does not necessarily mean it's any better. Be careful of chrome plated parts as the chrome plating can change the parts dimensionally and can also make it hard to do hand fitting and necessary stoning for fit and function.
<span style="color: #660000"><span style="font-weight: bold">12. A good upper/lower fit is helpful. For quick and dirty an Accuwedge in the rear helps a lot. The ultimate is to bed the upper to a specific lower (with bedding stuck to the upper but release agent on the lower) so that the upper and lower, when together are more like one integral unit. For the upper receivers we have made for use we try to get the specs as close as we can, but still fit the mix of lowers out in the market place.</span></span>
13. Don't screw up the muzzle (literally). Leave as much metal on the barrel at the muzzle as you can. People like to thread the muzzle for a flash supresssor, supresssor, muzzle brake, or some other attachment, but if you really want accuracy, leave as much metal as you can there and if you have something that screws on, set it up so that it can be put on and have it stay there without putting a lot of torque and stress on it right where the bullet exits the bore. If you are going to thread the end of the barrel, make it concentric with the bore and make sure what you screw on there is as well, and that the through holes where the bullet passes through are dead true to the bore (a lot of after market screw on things are not so good that way). Anything that vents gas should vent in a bilateral manner (i.e. if it vents left, it should vent equally right, and the for same up and down). Uneven venting of gas can wreck accuracy.

There are some more items on things like chamber design, etc., but time is short for me now and this post encompasses most of the big ones."

Robert Whitley
www.6mmAR.com

This was in the other thread you posted in. I guess you did not read that one either.
 
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Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Angry_Pirate</div><div class="ubbcode-body">WTH? </div></div>

I'm in agreeance with this.
If you wanted to remove the "wobble" between the upper and lower mega and seekins precision and mabe a few others sell lowers with a plastic tipped screw in the lower that removes the play between the upper and lower receiver.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I really don't think it going overboard.
If you want to get the highest accuracy out of an AR, I think every little bit will help.

But if you're after "Ultimate" accuracy, I think you need to ask yourself, "Is an AR platform the best system for 'Ultimate' accuracy?"

I don't know the answer to that question...
Just food for though.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ShrockWorks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've heard from several places that loose stocks can be a problem with accuracy.

I KNOW from personal experience that *I* can be a problem if I am not interacting with the gun the exact same way each shot: body position, breathing, cheek weld etc. All the people in the know seem to agree that gas guns are more finicky about these things we call the "fundamendals".

So why then does an upper flopping around on a lower randomly make no difference?</div></div>

I dont have a bedded AR, but I find it curious how so many people in this thread seem very strongly against the idea as pointless.

Can any of you answer the question above?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ropes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I really don't think it going overboard.
If you want to get the highest accuracy out of an AR, I think every little bit will help.

But if you're after "Ultimate" accuracy, I think you need to ask yourself, "Is an AR platform the best system for 'Ultimate' accuracy?"

I don't know the answer to that question...
Just food for though. </div></div>

I agree with you on that. At the time that I started this quest I was building an AR15 for a friend and wanted to see what could be done to wring out every bit if accuracy. While doing the research I found the post above from R. W. after seeing it I decided to bed my new LR308 action.

I would agree that an action with a set screw for tension is a great idea. A new (308) action is at least $230 extra. Bedding the action you already have costs $0.00. This LR308 is just for fun and I know it will not be a bench rest/accurate rifle. I am going to try some other things to see if I can get it to shoot better on my own.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Last time I bedded my AR-10 I had to sleep on the couch for a week...

but getting the upper and lower to not rattle when firing does help.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would like to know what happens to the marine TEX after hard use of the weapon? Flakes off I would bet.A big chip of marine TEX in the trigger would have what effect? </div></div> <span style="font-weight: bold"> Are you asking a question or making a statement? If it was a question then probably the same effect it would have on any rifle that is bedded.</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And why if you are worried about the fit in a AR go have it professedly welded and re-machined?</div></div> <span style="font-weight: bold">Because I don't have to. I can do things for my self.</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think allot of AR owners are really going overboard these days. </div></div><span style="font-weight: bold">Yes just like bolt action guys that bed their stocks, true their actions, lap the lugs, tune the triggers, bed the scope rails, change the firing pin and springs and replace the stocks, add DBM and bi-pods, add scope levels etc...</span> </div></div>

Bolt guns are a very different animal than gas guns. Gassers are inherently less accurate and require loose tolerances to function properly. The whole point of a bolt gun is(generally) accuracy and reliability. You can spend a LOT of time and money accurizing a semi and still not have a half minute shooter. I have an LAR8 and multiple bolt actions so there's no bias but I understand the limitations of my LAR and I employ it as such. Keep your expectations in check; this isn't a benchrest gun. You start fudgin with the tolerances you're walking a fine line between performance and reliability. Freefloat it, use a good barrel, trigger and optics and shoot the thing. We're makin mountains out of molehills here. An AR10 that shoots 1 minute is acceptable for 98% of what it's going to be asked to do. If it fails, then you brought the wrong tool.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

I remember one of the military teams tested magazines in a shooting vice and found that magazines can change the point of impact in a ar-15 (by means of the magazine pushing against the bolt carrier with different amounts of pressure). For this reason they recomended using only one magazine for each particular yard line.

Now for "tactical" purposes this may not be feasible, but I still number my magazines floorplate, and note witch one I used in the logbook.

I don't think bedding or an accuwedge would hurt, but I think the point that was brought up about it flaking and getting into the trigger is a serious concern.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MECH1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would like to know what happens to the marine TEX after hard use of the weapon? Flakes off I would bet.A big chip of marine TEX in the trigger would have what effect? </div></div> <span style="font-weight: bold"> Are you asking a question or making a statement? If it was a question then probably the same effect it would have on any rifle that is bedded.</span> </div></div>

From my experience, AR triggers are particulary sensitive to debris. I don't think an accuwedge would hurt, but I think the point that was brought up about it flaking and getting into the trigger is a serious concern.

I also wonder if a tight upper/lower fit would exasperate differing mag tension problem, but could be minimized by mag numbering.

If you're looking to squeeze accuracy out of your rifle, I would recommend:
1: most importantly free-float handguards/rails. If you shoot of a bag this is a must. I'm sure the orc is pretty narrow under the guards.
2: Your larue may be fine, but I think qd mounts are always suspect.
3: Get a scope with a objective focus/parralax adjustment.

All that said, I do appreciate your innovation, let us know if it shoots better.


ETA:
I don't recall if the magazines in the test I mentioned above where from the same contractors or not. Obviously that might be more a military problem when you have a dozen contractors.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

you can do whatever to your rifle and good job on the bedding, personnaly if it doesn't improve accutacy it isn't worth doing.
cheers.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Longstaff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I remember one of the military teams tested magazines in a shooting vice and found that magazines can change the point of impact in a ar-15 (by means of the magazine pushing against the bolt carrier with different amounts of pressure). For this reason they recomended using only one magazine for each particular yard line.

Now for "tactical" purposes this may not be feasible, but I still number my magazines floorplate, and note witch one I used in the logbook.
</div></div>That's excellent! Hadn't thought of that. More data is good.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: attherange</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can do whatever to your rifle and good job on the bedding, personnaly if it doesn't improve accuracy it isn't worth doing.</div></div>Sure. Or one just needs to seek better measurements to recognize what accuracy is. For some, 4MOA is fine. For others, they can recognize sub MOA differences in certain issues. All depends upon individual value and measurement of data.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: attherange</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can do whatever to your rifle and good job on the bedding, personnaly if it doesn't improve accutacy it isn't worth doing.
cheers. </div></div>
Maybe for you it was not worth it. But I was not going for "accutacy" or accuracy. For me it was worth it. Thanks for chiming in with a antiquated comment.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

This was never intended as a "SHOULD I DO THIS" or "I NEED HELP FROM THE AR GODS" or "WILL THIS IMPROVE MY ACCURACY" thread.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-size: 14pt">This was intended as a informative thread on "HOW TO BED AN AR10/AR15"</span></span>.</span></span> I do not need input on why it doesn't need to be done or why it will not improve accuracy. If you feel strongly that it shouldn't or doesn't need to be done then simply click the back button and your problems are solved.

However I do like to hear input on other AR15/AR10 processes. I would like to thank all who have provided insightful information to this thread.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
However I do like to here input on other AR15/AR10 processes.</div></div>
I really enjoy the thread you started, LongArm. Gives me that much more to think about.

I have a SledBed for my LR308 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Isolating more things. On my AR's and my 1022 with the Tapco stock, and even my Garand, I find that I shoot just a little more accurately by pulling the buttstock very firmly into my shoulder...and that I it helps if I do not wrap my thumb around my pistol grip. I'm holding only by pulling with my fingers in a singular direction without the potential for my thumb to twist anything or for my knuckle to twist anything as recoil causes the pistol grip to contact it.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

It tightened up everything like a bank vault. Feels like a completely different rifle.

When I do this again I would put the bedding inside the lower for the rear lug, instead of globing it on the rear lug itself. I would still put the bedding on the flats of the upper where it meets the lower.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

1. We are all big boys, we can choose what to do to our rifles, silly or not. Respect that.

2. Theory is nice but it don't mean spit if the practice contradicts the theory.

3. Done correctly, the flaky crap danger to the trigger parts of bedding compound is probably not much worse than the flaky crap danger of miscellaneous bits of dirt, copper and brass flakes from feeding ammo, the occasional bit of unburnt powder, and the occasional lost fired primer cup that I keep hearing about. Personally, all these wild tales make me want to put a 1/4-inch "drain hole" in front of the trigger, with some funneling machined in there to encourage the crap to leave.

4. We are free to do all sorts of mods we want to, and sometimes the desired result has little to do with measurable accuracy improvement. Does that Magpull buttstock make YOUR rifle group tighter? Didn't think so.

I personally think it's not needed, but rattles bug me too. And even the Service Rifle rules allow a set screw between the upper and lower to...you guessed it...take out the slop.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Some before and after pics of "groups fired" might be helpful here. I don't know that I would bed my LR260 but to each his own. That said, I am curious if it helped.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RGraff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some before and after pics of "groups fired" might be helpful here. I don't know that I would bed my LR260 but to each his own. That said, I am curious if it helped. </div></div>

Why would that be helpful?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

Like I said...curious if it helped. Right now I'm not interested in doing it to my rifle but if I saw that it helped another shooter I might consider it.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ropes</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ShrockWorks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just asking here...

On an AR, the scope is attached to the upper with barrel and bolt included' hence the idea that upper lower fit doesnt matter.

Is seems very similar to the way a scope is attached to a barreled action in a bolt action though. Yet on bolt actions conventional wisdom says proper bedding matters. Free floating is the same concept on either, not talking about that.

Why would it not matter on an AR?

Again I'm just asking... for a technical explanation. </div></div>
I was just thinking the same thing..
but some one poorly explained it to me as the lower on an AR is like a chassis system for a bolt gun, no bedding required.
Why don't chassis need bedding too?
</div></div>

Bedding a stock on a bolt gun has little to do with scope to reciever interaction. It is done to relieve any stress to the reciever that might be caused by improper fit in this area. Stress may cause twisting or bending of the action leading to bad cycling, improper lock up and uneven preasures on bolt and cartraige. Proper fit ensures no stress and even pressure on the reciever and throughout the action. Modern chassis systems are very good but some may still benifit from a skim bed but I dont know if it would make much difference on most. If your AR's upper/lower fit is already sloppy I doubt the lower is excerting any stress on the upper but like some of you, I hate that slop too. This is another reason I'm a big Armalite fan, I have two AR10's and an M15 of which none have any slop. Never handled one that did. Interesting thread OP, thanks for posting.

okie
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

2012-06-23220942.jpg

</div></div>

I also don't see why everyone is bitching about the bedding, I think it's a valid improvement. Minor and not the single most cost effective thing for an AR, but definitely better.

My problem with this thread was the ugly <span style="color: #009900">camo </span>Accupoint with a <span style="color: #CC33CC">pink </span>reticle, which now seems to have been ruined a second time with 2 shades of <span style="color: #663300">brown</span>.

Poor Trijicon...
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

LongArm,

You are getting a lot of feedback on your work and questions about the value of this project. We have a lot of experience here and it is always good to see someone think outside the box. We can learn from each other and I appreciate that you shared your idea and project with us.

Thebolt-
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thebolt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">LongArm,

You are getting a lot of feedback on your work and questions about the value of this project. We have a lot of experience here and it is always good to see someone think outside the box. We can learn from each other and I appreciate that you shared your idea and project with us.

Thebolt- </div></div>

Thanks. I agree with you. I have always wanted to try it and figured I'd put it out there. I have never understood why people will just post useless chatter to stir the pot. Reminds me of middle school.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

you are right, i should not of said that it was a joke. my bad. i shouldn't have said anything about bedding an AR rifle. what ever floats your boat.

calm down longarm.. using words like "asshat" and "man pleaser"?? come on really??? wow.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering why anyone would even consider doing this to an AR??? god I hope this is a joke right??? </div></div>

Hey asshat stop trolling and go back to AR15 and talk about how cool your FastFire is gonna be, ohh wait I guess it didn't turn out that cool after all. Its must be hard knowing everything like you. Maybe next time you should shut your man pleaser long enough to research things.

Stop trolling here. </div></div>
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you are right, i should not of said that it was a joke. my bad. i shouldn't have said anything about bedding an AR rifle. what ever floats your boat.

calm down longarm.. using words like "asshat" and "man pleaser"?? come on really??? wow.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering why anyone would even consider doing this to an AR??? god I hope this is a joke right??? </div></div>

Hey asshat stop trolling and go back to AR15 and talk about how cool your FastFire is gonna be, ohh wait I guess it didn't turn out that cool after all. Its must be hard knowing everything like you. Maybe next time you should shut your man pleaser long enough to research things.

Stop trolling here. </div></div> </div></div>

OK, my language was harsh. I am not sure why you posted your original post or what you were trying to accomplish. Read what I had posted earlier in the thread. That is where this comes from.

I apologize if my harsh comments offended you. I am now done bantering with trolls.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

you are right.. im sorry. my bad. i can admit when im wrong. i would never say i know everything nor would i consider myself a troll.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you are right, i should not of said that it was a joke. my bad. i shouldn't have said anything about bedding an AR rifle. what ever floats your boat.

calm down longarm.. using words like "asshat" and "man pleaser"?? come on really??? wow.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just wondering why anyone would even consider doing this to an AR??? god I hope this is a joke right??? </div></div>

Hey asshat stop trolling and go back to AR15 and talk about how cool your FastFire is gonna be, ohh wait I guess it didn't turn out that cool after all. Its must be hard knowing everything like you. Maybe next time you should shut your man pleaser long enough to research things.

Stop trolling here. </div></div> </div></div>

OK, my language was harsh. I am not sure why you posted your original post or what you were trying to accomplish. Read what I had posted earlier in the thread. That is where this comes from.

I apologize if my harsh comments offended you. I am now done bantering with trolls. </div></div>
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This was never intended as a "SHOULD I DO THIS" or "I NEED HELP FROM THE AR GODS" or "WILL THIS IMPROVE MY ACCURACY" thread.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-size: 14pt">This was intended as a informative thread on "HOW TO BED AN AR10/AR15"</span></span>.</span></span> I do not need input on why it doesn't need to be done or why it will not improve accuracy. If you feel strongly that it shouldn't or doesn't need to be done then simply click the back button and your problems are solved.

However I do like to hear input on other AR15/AR10 processes. I would like to thank all who have provided insightful information to this thread. </div></div>

Dude...its hard to post anything w/o getting your balls busted. My thoughts aside, its good to see someone nut up, do something & post it. Unfortunately, many potentially good ideas & inputs are squelched & will simply never be heard.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

AR marketers are keen to give the market what they want. Unfortunately, some marketers cater to the whims of the guy just getting into it. What this guy wants may be absurd yet some marketers will still give this guy what he perceives will get the job done. An example of this is Rock River marketing a two stage match trigger for their M4 style carbine. Seems the other manufactures have resisted this sort of thing but still marketers look for gadgets which appeal to the market just getting into AR's. So far, manufactures have resisted bedding schemes too, but some, again like Rock River, stake a claim on quality with their advertisements touting a tight fit between upper and lower receivers. Some folks now believe this is important and will not accept a gun which does not fit tight. Never-mind that you may need to hammer out the pivot pin to initially get one of these guns apart. At any rate, I appreciate the OP showing me how to do it. I now can direct folks who are concerned about the matter to this thread.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WildBill3/75</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> seekins precision and mabe a few others sell lowers with a plastic tipped screw in the lower that removes the play between the upper and lower receiver. </div></div>

Id do something like that. Or have it aluminum welded then milled down perfect.

I get the idea behind this, but I think there are better ways to accomplish it.
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

you said you would reverse it next time, why put the marine tex in the lower instead of the upper lug??

And did you do anything on the front lug?

I see the lever system you hung it by the barrel to dry, but how did you apply downward pressure on the front lug? wouldn't hanging it by the barrel like that cause the front lug to push up and forward against the pin instead of pulling down?

I would think it would be better to have a straight up/down pull to apply pressure against the length of the mating faces on the upper and lower to be better. or does it not matter?
 
Re: Bedding AR10 / LR308 actions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RufDog</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LongArm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This was never intended as a "SHOULD I DO THIS" or "I NEED HELP FROM THE AR GODS" or "WILL THIS IMPROVE MY ACCURACY" thread.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-size: 14pt">This was intended as a informative thread on "HOW TO BED AN AR10/AR15"</span></span>.</span></span> I do not need input on why it doesn't need to be done or why it will not improve accuracy. If you feel strongly that it shouldn't or doesn't need to be done then simply click the back button and your problems are solved.

However I do like to hear input on other AR15/AR10 processes. I would like to thank all who have provided insightful information to this thread. </div></div>

Dude...its hard to post anything w/o getting your balls busted. My thoughts aside, its good to see someone nut up, do something & post it. Unfortunately, many potentially good ideas & inputs are squelched & will simply never be heard.
</div></div>

Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.
- Albert Einstein