I'm new here so be gentle. I have a 1917 Enfield that will not close on a field gauge, One of the locking lugs (the left one when the bolt is open), has some pitting on the bearing surface and I seriously doubt it is bearing. I have had a number of split cases, all separating on the same side of the case, going left to right across the width of the case. I suspect the bolt is twisting and allowing the case to separate on that side. I plan to buy another bolt body, check the headspacing, and if it's acceptable I'll try firing it again (off a sawhorse), and maybe lap the lugs a bit. The question is: if the new bolt body doesn't fix the problem or won't headspace, I'm thinking about lapping the lugs and setting the barrel back a thread and rechambering. The threads are square, I don't have the threading bit, and I'm a novice. I'm wondering if I turn down the shoulder to minor thread diameter and back the distance of one thread if that would be a bad way to do it. I think some rifle barrels are not threaded all the way back to the shoulder? My plan is to work it back until the witness marks line up, then deal with the cone and extractor groove. I have a south bend 9" lathe model C. Would a finish chamber reamer suffice instead of a roughing reamer if I've only set back one thread? It would be about 0.092" I think short chambered barrels by Criterion for the P17 are 0.010.
Gunsmithing Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
- Thread starter WayneinMaine
- Start date
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
I realize this is NOT what you're wanting to do, but I welded some extra metal on the back of my bolt locking lugs and worked it back down with a file and arkansas stones to bring my 1917 headspace back into spec. I was getting case head seperations etc. Now I can shoot the old near max accuracy load I used to use with no issues. I do not have the capabilities you obviously have if you're considering setting back the barrel, so I po-boyed it and it worked well.
I realize this is NOT what you're wanting to do, but I welded some extra metal on the back of my bolt locking lugs and worked it back down with a file and arkansas stones to bring my 1917 headspace back into spec. I was getting case head seperations etc. Now I can shoot the old near max accuracy load I used to use with no issues. I do not have the capabilities you obviously have if you're considering setting back the barrel, so I po-boyed it and it worked well.
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
That is not a bad idea, I don't know how that would affect the temper, but I could true the locking lugs on the bolt on the lathe, and dress the bolt face, given a little extra metal. Right now the rifle is very inaccurate, 6 inch groups at 30 yards. It dances around in the stock like Patrick Swayze in a chick flick, so I'm going to glass bed it, and re-crown the muzzle. I'm not even sure the loose stock, bad muzzle, and uneven bolt can account for that much inaccuracy. I may end up rebarreling if it doesn't shoot well. I'd prefer to get this .06 barrel shooting and get a .308 barrel for it as well.
That is not a bad idea, I don't know how that would affect the temper, but I could true the locking lugs on the bolt on the lathe, and dress the bolt face, given a little extra metal. Right now the rifle is very inaccurate, 6 inch groups at 30 yards. It dances around in the stock like Patrick Swayze in a chick flick, so I'm going to glass bed it, and re-crown the muzzle. I'm not even sure the loose stock, bad muzzle, and uneven bolt can account for that much inaccuracy. I may end up rebarreling if it doesn't shoot well. I'd prefer to get this .06 barrel shooting and get a .308 barrel for it as well.
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
DON'T WELD ON A BOLT HEAD OR LOCKING LUGS!!! Silver solder is what you want. As for the Model 1917, what marker is the receiver? If an Eddystone receiver, you may need to relief cut the barrel.
Go here and read around:
http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=111
Parts:
http://www.ssporters.com/parts/1917and%20P14enfield.htm
New barrel 190+ ship
http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/accessories.htm#NewBarrels
DON'T WELD ON A BOLT HEAD OR LOCKING LUGS!!! Silver solder is what you want. As for the Model 1917, what marker is the receiver? If an Eddystone receiver, you may need to relief cut the barrel.
Go here and read around:
http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=111
Parts:
http://www.ssporters.com/parts/1917and%20P14enfield.htm
New barrel 190+ ship
http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/accessories.htm#NewBarrels
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
Here's the story that I posted in answer to another thread a few days ago. Look for the posts by mtrmn
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3382737#Post3382737
Here's the story that I posted in answer to another thread a few days ago. Look for the posts by mtrmn
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3382737#Post3382737
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
It's an Eddy I have 3 of them. I had one barrel removed elsewhere, the "gunsmith" charged me $100 to check the headspacing and then remove the barrel. I though he was not very knowledgeable and brought it home. I ordered a Forster field gauge, stripped the bolt, screwed the barrel in hand tight (almost to the witness mark) and the bolt would not close on the gauge. This is a rifle different than the one I'm talking about. I confronted the gunsmith and he said Either I switched the bolts or it fixed itself somehow when he removed the barrel. That was the second time that sort of thing happened. That's when I decided to do my own gunsmithing. Anyway, I understand the Eddy barrels were installed with pneumatics and that's why they're harder to remove? Would there be much benefit to soaking it in penetrating oil for a couple days before removing the barrel? I really hate to damage the barrel if I can avoid it.
It's an Eddy I have 3 of them. I had one barrel removed elsewhere, the "gunsmith" charged me $100 to check the headspacing and then remove the barrel. I though he was not very knowledgeable and brought it home. I ordered a Forster field gauge, stripped the bolt, screwed the barrel in hand tight (almost to the witness mark) and the bolt would not close on the gauge. This is a rifle different than the one I'm talking about. I confronted the gunsmith and he said Either I switched the bolts or it fixed itself somehow when he removed the barrel. That was the second time that sort of thing happened. That's when I decided to do my own gunsmithing. Anyway, I understand the Eddy barrels were installed with pneumatics and that's why they're harder to remove? Would there be much benefit to soaking it in penetrating oil for a couple days before removing the barrel? I really hate to damage the barrel if I can avoid it.
Re: Setting back a 1917 enfield barrel.
Eddy with Eddy barrels need relief cuts. Don't cut to deep, then turn the shoulder and make a shim/recoil lug.
If you can't do it, Scott can (better then me).
He is a smith even if his site doesn't list it. E-mail him.
Here:
http://www.customscrewsandmore.com/default.html
Save the receiver, use the relief cut.
Good luck!
Eddy with Eddy barrels need relief cuts. Don't cut to deep, then turn the shoulder and make a shim/recoil lug.
If you can't do it, Scott can (better then me).
He is a smith even if his site doesn't list it. E-mail him.
Here:
http://www.customscrewsandmore.com/default.html
Save the receiver, use the relief cut.
Good luck!
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