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Gunsmithing Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Helidriver

Sergeant
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 6, 2009
370
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Surprise, AZ
I'm thinking about bedding my Savage that has a full length aluminum bedding block. Is there any advantage to doing this? My guess is yes but people are telling me it does not need to be done and would defeat the purpose of the bedding block. I disagree but I thought I would ask you guys.

If yes what type or brand of bedding should I use? It's been 10 years since I've done one and I'm sure things have changed. Any tips?

Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

you can just do a skim bed...with some devcon or marine tex..

i have a hart stock with a v-block...it utilizes 4 "pressure pads" to bed...but it specifically designed so that bedding can be done...so that alone tells me that there's merit to bedding a block
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ratbert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How does it shoot now? </div></div>

I dont know. I took the action out of an accustock and i'm putting it in a non-accustock. The old stock was too small and I felt crampt behind the rifle. One thing that I'm a little worried about is the recoil lug length. The accustock recoil lug is shorter than the normal savage lug. It looks like it has sufficient purchase but I'm not sure. How much to I need?
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

I have 2 savages that I have bedded in aluminum bedding blocks. First was my original savage accustock. The rifle didn't shoot all that bad but I could see where the rifle was riding on the aluminum blocks as it would leave marks on the action and it wasn't that much contact. I bed it with devcon and it turned out pretty well. I havn't noticed that it increased accurcy but it didn't hurt it and now I don't have to deal with that stupid accuwedge. That was a huge PITA for me trying to torque that down right.

The second was an HS Precision stock. I had to bed that stock because the action didn't sit straight in the stock. When the action was torqued down properly and the rear tang rode the stock really hard thus torqueing the action. I went from amazing accuracy in the crapy accustock to shitty accuracy in the HS overnight.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Savage 10fp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have 2 savages that I have bedded in aluminum bedding blocks. First was my original savage accustock. The rifle didn't shoot all that bad but I could see where the rifle was riding on the aluminum blocks as it would leave marks on the action and it wasn't that much contact. I bed it with devcon and it turned out pretty well. I havn't noticed that it increased accurcy but it didn't hurt it and now I don't have to deal with that stupid accuwedge. That was a huge PITA for me trying to torque that down right.

The second was an HS Precision stock. I had to bed that stock because the action didn't sit straight in the stock. When the action was torqued down properly and the rear tang rode the stock really hard thus torqueing the action. I went from amazing accuracy in the crapy accustock to shitty accuracy in the HS overnight. </div></div>

So the rear tang was causing the problem on the HS stock? After you bedded it did the accuracy return to the action?
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

One caution with bedding to aluminum. No matter what bedding compound you use the aluminum will oxidize under it. You can’t stop the oxidation process from happening. This means over time the bedding may begin to separate and come loose. The airline industry found this out the hard way when they started bonding light weight carbon skins/panels to aluminum frames. Over time due to the oxidation the panels began to separate and they had to go to titanium frames.

I know it’s done all the time and most never see any adverse issues, just something to keep in the back of your mind.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Helidriver</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So the rear tang was causing the problem on the HS stock? After you bedded it did the accuracy return to the action? </div></div>

Yes it did. I was really surprised how much of a difference it made.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jeff in TX</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One caution with bedding to aluminum. No matter what bedding compound you use the aluminum will oxidize under it. You can’t stop the oxidation process from happening. This means over time the bedding may begin to separate and come loose. The airline industry found this out the hard way when they started bonding light weight carbon skins/panels to aluminum frames. Over time due to the oxidation the panels began to separate and they had to go to titanium frames.

I know it’s done all the time and most never see any adverse issues, just something to keep in the back of your mind.
</div></div>
Just wondering, doesn't titanium oxidize the same way aluminum does. The reason both materials have such superior corrosion resistance is that they oxidize almost instantly. Aluminum oxide is very hard, actually even harder than titanium oxide. I wonder if anyone has had their bedding come off as a result of the aluminum oxidizing.

From what I understand as long as you rough up the aluminum well enough you should be good to go. I actually cut into my aluminum block the same way I did with my wood stock. I took out quite a bit of material (1/2 inch or more at the action screws). I wouldn't consider what I did a skim bedding job.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Theoretically, glass bedding a round receiver should only be half as stiff as a V-block connection, given the same action screw torque.

That is because the V block is a force multiplier. The 90 degree V should double the forces. Smaller angles would wedge the cylinder shape in even harder.

The V block does not need to be shaped like a V, it just has to be stiff like one and touch in the same place as one.

ATIscopemountcontactlines6-26-2012.jpg

ATI touching like a V block.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

a while back i had some smart peeps help me figure this out and going off memory now, it would take something like 300+ pounds of force to start a round steel receiver moving when it is torqued with two 1/4-28 screws at 55 in/lbs into a 90* anodized aluminum vee block. and that's not even taking the recoil lug into consideration.

i have lots of faith in a 90* vee block chassis. other aluminum bedding blocks i haven't payed much attention to so i don't have much opinion on them.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">a while back i had some smart peeps help me figure this out and going off memory now, it would take something like 300+ pounds of force to start a round steel receiver moving when it is torqued with two 1/4-28 screws at 55 in/lbs into a 90* anodized aluminum vee block. and that's not even taking the recoil lug into consideration.

i have lots of faith in a 90* vee block chassis. other aluminum bedding blocks i haven't payed much attention to so i don't have much opinion on them. </div></div>

<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #3333FF">Can we assume you're for or against bedding based on this information?</span></span>
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Theoretically, glass bedding a round receiver should only be half as stiff as a V-block connection, given the same action screw torque.

That is because the V block is a force multiplier. The 90 degree V should double the forces. Smaller angles would wedge the cylinder shape in even harder.

The V block does not need to be shaped like a V, it just has to be stiff like one and touch in the same place as one.
</div></div>

at the risk of sounding stupid...
I dont understand your theory.
Are you saying the aluminum helps stiffen the action because they're bolted together? More so than fiberglass?
I don't get what you're saying about the V. What forces are being doubled?



I'm not getting into the "bedding V-blocks" discussion further than to say..
If talkin a Remy700, you have an un-round action that isn't straight either btw, and you're bolting it into an imperfect aluminum block. I can kinda see how bedding miiight just help.

Kinda like it helps with other stocks(Mcmillan, Manners, etc.)
Nothing NEEDS bedding. But wouldn't it only help?


How spot on do yall think Remington is on their receiver face distant from the action screws? Not very?
Point being, do you think some receiver faces(and therefor lugs) might be a little further forward than on others?
So what about that system is insuring good recoil lug contact? The fact that its "pretty close"?
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Ok, I've got everything ready to bed the action tonight. One last question. Should I revieve the front of the block (mating surface for the lug) like you would with a wood or fiberglass stock? Or should I skim bed the lug?

I have no boubt that this bedding job will be an improvement. There is is a lot of "slop" in this combination and my thought is that you can't tighten the action down so much in the v-block that it's not going to be affected by the recoil of the rifle. If there's room it's gonna move.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith Johns</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Theoretically, glass bedding a round receiver should only be half as stiff as a V-block connection, given the same action screw torque.

That is because the V block is a force multiplier. The 90 degree V should double the forces. Smaller angles would wedge the cylinder shape in even harder.

The V block does not need to be shaped like a V, it just has to be stiff like one and touch in the same place as one.
</div></div>

at the risk of sounding stupid...
I dont understand your theory.
Are you saying the aluminum helps stiffen the action because they're bolted together? More so than fiberglass?
I don't get what you're saying about the V. What forces are being doubled?



I'm not getting into the "bedding V-blocks" discussion further than to say..
If talkin a Remy700, you have an un-round action that isn't straight either btw, and you're bolting it into an imperfect aluminum block. I can kinda see how bedding miiight just help.

Kinda like it helps with other stocks(Mcmillan, Manners, etc.)
Nothing NEEDS bedding. But wouldn't it only help?


How spot on do yall think Remington is on their receiver face distant from the action screws? Not very?
Point being, do you think some receiver faces(and therefor lugs) might be a little further forward than on others?
So what about that system is insuring good recoil lug contact? The fact that its "pretty close"?
</div></div>

"stiffen" probably wasn't the best choice of word by clark but he is correct about the vee increasing the normal force. a round receiver in a vee block will require more force to overcome the friction between them than a round receiver in a round stock, assuming the vee block/stock were made from the same material.

we just need to know the coefficient of friction between steel and the hardened bedding compound of your choice and we can figure out if bedding would resist movement more than a steel receiver in an anodized aluminum vee block.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Yep if you wedge a pipe into a V at 65"lbs it wont wana slide back as easily as it will in a half circle.
Is that the point being made?

Or are you talkin rotational force.

I can see how a chassis might oppose rotational force more compared to an unbedded fiberglass stock.

 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RADcustom</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="color: #3333FF">Can we assume you're for or against bedding based on this information?</span></span> </div></div>

you've really caught onto that font thing
grin.gif


for me personally, if i want to go though the trouble of bedding an action, i sure as hell wouldn't be running an ugly ass brick of a stock such as an aics. i run them because they work great out of the box, pure and simple. once i see a remington receiver so far out of whack that it won't make contact with a vee block in 4 places when torqued down, then maybe i'll change my mind. if i find one like that though, it's probably ready to be sent to china for recycling.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith Johns</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yep if you wedge a pipe into a V it wont wana slide back as easily as it will in a half circle.
Is that the point being made?
</div></div>

that's what i took from it.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Ok, I've got everything ready to bed the action tonight. One last question. Should I revieve the front of the block (mating surface for the lug) like you would with a wood or fiberglass stock? Or should I skim bed the lug?

I have no boubt that this bedding job will be an improvement. There is is a lot of "slop" in this combination and my thought is that you can't tighten the action down so much in the v-block that it's not going to be affected by the recoil of the rifle. If there's room it's gonna move.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Simple-Machines.jpg


The round cylinder drawn is into the V block making the screw force multiplied.

In the world of simple machine lists, the round receiver is a wedge.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

My scattered thoughts on a Sunday morning:

1) The V-shaped opening of a bedded block is indeed conductive to increasing the normal force applied to the receiver. However, this is only helpful if we assume that friction is the primary means of preventing movement between the receiver and the stock. My preference would be that a tight mechanical fit is established between the stock and an appropriate feature on the receiver (such as the aptly-named recoil lug) in order to prevent relative motion during recoil.

2) If you are doing any sort of "skim bedding", make sure to closely follow the epoxy resin manufacturer's recommendation for minimum thickness. A little film of epoxy behind the recoil lug that is a thou or two in thickness won't hold up to many dis-assembly/reassembly cycles. Devcon recommends 3-5 thou for 10110 putty; double or triple this would be better IMO.

3) Epoxy does indeed have some limitations when bonding to aluminum. If you wet-sand the aluminum surface immediately prior to the bedding work using some thinned epoxy (check with the manufacturer on the proper thinning agent), then the issues with oxidization can be avoided... at least until moisture works its way back to the epoxy-aluminum joint. Since bedding doesn't really require a lot in terms of peel strength, I'm not sure there is much reason for concern - just make sure that there are some undercuts in the aluminum to form a proper mechanical lock to the bedding compound.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Helidriver</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, I've got everything ready to bed the action tonight. One last question. Should I revieve the front of the block (mating surface for the lug) like you would with a wood or fiberglass stock? Or should I skim bed the lug?

I have no boubt that this bedding job will be an improvement. There is is a lot of "slop" in this combination and my thought is that you can't tighten the action down so much in the v-block that it's not going to be affected by the recoil of the rifle. If there's room it's gonna move. </div></div>

I did. I actually used a carbide cutter on my dremel tool and relieved the mating surface for the lug. It turned out pretty good actually. In my savage accustock I actually had to because I removed the accuwedge. So really the only thing between the lug and the stock is the epoxy.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Savage 10fp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did. I actually used a carbide cutter on my dremel tool and relieved the mating surface for the lug. It turned out pretty good actually. In my savage accustock I actually had to because I removed the accuwedge. So really the only thing between the lug and the stock is the epoxy. </div></div>

Damn! I didn't do it. The bedding looks like it came out ok. I'm going to the range this weekend. If it shoots like shit I might clean it out and start again. Thank God for beer and Dremel Tools! I might go through a lot of both before this saga is over.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Helidriver</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If it shoots like shit I might clean it out and start again. </div></div>
I can think of a dozen accuracy rituals more important than bedding.
Measuring the difference in group size from no bedding to good bedding is hard to do.
But bad bedding that bends the receiver or barrel can make a rifle measurably worse.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can think of a dozen accuracy rituals more important than bedding.
Measuring the difference in group size from no bedding to good bedding is hard to do.
But bad bedding that bends the receiver or barrel can make a rifle measurably worse.
</div></div>
While this may be true for some stocks, I was able to take an moa off of my Remington 700 by bedding it and free floating the barrel. I was able to take about half an moa off of my Savage HS by just bedding it. In both cases I have targets to show the improvements,
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

This is how I went about solving the "problem" with alloy stocks.

Just surface machine the damn thing to match the receiver. .03" stepover.

Works great!

DSC_0055.jpg


DSC_0054.jpg


DSC_0053.jpg
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

I see a wide range of opinions on bedding aluminum block stocks. I think it comes down to your specific action. If done right it cant hurt.

I have a 700 in 308 that has always shot decent groups (just under 1 moa -3/4 moa), but after bedding in a aics and b&c groups shrank to under 1/2 moa!

Thats a huge accuracy increase. I would want to praise Remington for making an off-the-shelf rifle with such potential but then again if they could make their receivers with less runout they might actually shoot out of the box!
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cpt. obvious</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I see a wide range of opinions on bedding aluminum block stocks. I think it comes down to your specific action. If done right it cant hurt.

I have a 700 in 308 that has always shot decent groups (just under 1 moa -3/4 moa), but after bedding in a aics and b&c groups shrank to under 1/2 moa!

Thats a huge accuracy increase. I would want to praise Remington for making an off-the-shelf rifle with such potential but then again if they could make their receivers with less runout they might actually shoot out of the box! </div></div>

i doubt od runout of the receiver has anything to do with the accuracy potential. you don't need to measure anything on this receiver. you can easily see how bent it is by rolling it on a granite surface plate. it shoots just fine in a non-bedded aics.

722a78aa.jpg


i'm not too convinced bedding it would make it or me shoot any better.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Chad

Is that an M24 Stock?
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

I didn't bed chit.

Machined it 1:1. The scallop is the .03" stepover the tool makes.

I did this once before yeeeeeaaaarrrrsss ago at Dakota Arms with a Model 97 action in an Ian Robertson composite stock. There wasn't a bedding block in it, but I fully surfaced the stock 1:1 to the action.

Took me a solid weekend of dickering to get the programming down to a single operation, but it did work.

Gun shot just as well as anything else.

In the end we put the kabosh to it. Even with an "entry level" Dakota action like the 97 it was dubbed as a nail in the coffin to send a rifle out the door that wasn't fully bedded with pillars. (I did use pillars, just machined them while in the stock).

As mentioned, there's a ton of ways to skin cats in this game. I personally loath chassis stocks as I think they are just but ugly (least all the ones I've seen) and it greatly complicates things when trying to build something really nice.

Take a stab at masking off a floor metal that's permanently attached to the bedding block once so that you can paint the stock. It's about like trying to do your own root canal in the bathroom mirror.

That and I personally think they are machined wrong. If it's truly the answer, why are so many guys having to bed in the tang to prevent the receiver from tilting back when you apply tension to the rear guard screw. It may very well still shoot, but it does end up being an oxymoron of sorts. The block should be machined to the contour of the receiver. A tangent and concentric saddle will provide more than adequate support across the length of the receiver.

This would put the stiff on all these debates and high minded discussions.

In the end its cost. Even if you invest in high end state of the art CNC equipment you can fixture a stock only so well and push a tool only so hard. H/S casts their parts. Guys like Manners buys machined components for theirs. The cost of surfacing would likely double the price of the unit due to cycle times.

The dollar. Where it begins and ends. . .

Gnite.

C.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

I would guess from what work I've done with composite base ball bats and engineering their center of percussion, the v-blocks introduce the possibility of creating unbalanced forces on the action, both while at rest and during recoil. Most of the blocks don't fit the action perfectly across the entirety of the surfaces in contact. You can see this by looking at the wear on the receiver and the action block. If the wear pattern is not perfectly symmetric across the center of the stock in the long direction, you can guarantee that the contact is not dimensionally symmetric, and is creating unbalanced loads. Now even if it is dimensionally symmetric, what if the OD runout of the receiver is very marginally larger on one side of the receiver? Or if per say the left contact was higher on the front contact, and the right side is higher on the contact by the tang? Now the receiver is under residual torsional stress about the bore axis. While you may say that this has no contribution to POI, and it might not be apparent in terms of group size, it can greatly affect the harmonics of the rifle as any residual internal stresses in the metal will change the vibration character during recoil and will create point damping and other effects. This can lead to yielding of action/action screws which at very minute levels obviously have the capability to change POI from shot to shot, and could eventually perform as a rifle with poor bedding or good bedding, whether or not the rifle wears in a manner that reduces the stress and allows the system to load and unload consistently, but not necessarily symmetrically.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

The threads about bedding are so concerned with making sure the finished product does not introduce any stress or tension (or optionally a determined timy ammount) into the action at rest, I'm kind of surprised that more people aren't comcerned by the possibilty that bolting the action into a cast v-block might not be doing the same.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Its more than just a possibility..
Some have piss poor recoil lug contact too. How consistent are receiver lengths and how square are receiver faces? Even after truing because nothing gets trued to the receiver OD.

I know some of you have heard this 20x before, but I've seen a rifle shoot half inch all day long with ZERO lug contact in an AICS. I have also seen without doubt actions that were stressed in their AICS(loosen one screw and the action lifts) yet they shot great. That doesn't mean its ok to have zero lug contact and stress. I think it just means we're still learning



Mcmillan stocks are CNC inlet to fit the action, kinda like Chad did above to the HS stock. He doesn't bed his HS's he does like that, but all fiberglass must be bedded.... Hmmm. I find that very funny considering pretty much the same thing is being done. And since Mcmillan will put aluminum pillars in there at the perfect length, I don't see much worry about stock compression.

Chad why do you feel its more important to bed a mcmillan stock and not that HS you showed above? Is it just rigidity/compression?
I would think a V shape would be a better idea than what you did if no bedding is to be used, considering the actions imperfections.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Machined it 1:1.

The block should be machined to the contour of the receiver.
</div></div>

If Mcmillan stocks were made entirely from aluminum, but were the exact same shape and inlet, would you bed them? How would it differ from your HS job?


The guys who say they don't need bedding... if they had to build a rifle that their life depended on, I bet they'd bed it
smile.gif

Would only help right?



If people were truing the OD's of Remington receivers it'd be a slightly different story.
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

Keith,

There's fundemental differences between how we do it verses how a production stock company inlets a stock.

Lets define a few things first:

1: Just because something is CNC machined it doesn't mean its magically going to solve all the worlds problems. You can write a very simple program to inlet for a Remington using less than 4 tools and a few lines of code. Or you can write one tens of thousands of blocks long and use many tools.

Either way, it's how well you apply fundamentals and how accurately you machine the part that determines the final outcome.

Form tools: A form tool removes material to shape a part in one pass. An example would be lets say you want to buzz a stock to fit a Remington 700 action. You'd have a 1.350 diameter ball or lollypop endmill ground. You'd likely rough most the material from the center out with a 1" ball or flat EM and finish with the 1.350" od form tool.

Assuming you can fixture the part well enough to tolerate that much tool loading there's nothing wrong with doing it this way. Assuming (as you eluded to) that the receiver is of a consistent diameter from stem/stern.

Surface machining. I draw the part 3 dimensionally. I measure at various points to obtain a (hopefully) accurate representation of the part. Taking into account things like tang geometry, screw locations, taper, etc.

Once the surface is generated a tool much smaller than the radius of the part begins to define all the features. In my case its done with a .1875" ball endmill. With each lap around the part (using a scallop surfacing tool path definition) my stepover was .03". Meaning the tool moves incrementally .03" as it runs through the code.

Principle differences:

No assumptions are made on the part dimensioning

Inside corner features like up in a lug area and back at the tang remain well defined and mirror the part going into them. There's no "dog bone" virtual corner reliefs or tang geometry that's flat on the bottom.

What does it all mean?

One and most important is its more accurate. This isn't new or cutting edge. It's how things like turbine blades, molds, cylinder head ports, and any other part containing complex geometry gets made. By comparison, surface machining a receiver and barrel channel is rather "infant". It's really pretty simple stuff.

As you also mentioned, there are a plethora of rifles out there shooting exceptionally well that defy what is (was) considered cast in stone doctrine a relatively short time ago. So, just how important is it?

In practice probably very little.

In practice a fancy 4 color paint job doesn't mean much either unless your life depends on it, yet there's a long line of folks with $ in their hands willing to pay for it.

My entire point in sharing this was to offer an alternative method to fitting a receiver to an alloy chassis type stock. As I stated earlier, it seems rather counter productive in my eyes to offer a chassis stock as the "final solution" only to hear of everyone bedding the rear screw because the "wedge" geometry so popular by so many manufacturers doesn't work with a Remington style tang.

To make it work as is without bedding requires relocating the rear guard screw to the same location where the receiver makes tangent contact on both sides of the chassis. Doesn't take a genius to figure out that this isn't a practical or viable solution.

So, bed it and roll or resurface it to something that does work.

I personally strongly disagree with bedding chassis stocks for a number of fundamental reasons. Mostly, resins don't want to adhere to aluminum due to oxidation. Not the way they are supposed to anyway. It's a challenge the aerospace industry struggles with often. It's why I'll never build a gun with AL pillars and why I make my own.

2nd is composites and Aluminum are polar opposites on the galvanic table. Meaning that if you have the two in close proximity and introduce an electrolyte such as salt water, you just made a crude battery. Make it big enough and really bad stuff happens.

The dual carbon hull, AL honey comb America's Cup Yacht being a convenient example. They poked a hole in the outer hull once and as seawater entered the boat began to dissolve itself.

The average rifle will likely never experience this -Till it goes in the ocean or along a coastal beachhead in search of terrorists or Kodiak bears. . .

Contrary to what some may think, there's a reason why I do stuff the way I do. Might not make sense to some, but it makes sense to me and enough other folks that I get to keep doing this week after week.

If I was building a personal rifle for the apocalypse and elected to go the chassis route, I'd do exactly what I did with this H/S stock. Bedding resin would never be used.

Machine it to fit from the beginning and there's no need to.

Last. Just how bad is the average Remington? To check it requires some capital investment in metrology equipment. Bare essentials like a surface plate, height stand, etc are needed.

Unless someone went blazing through the receiver with a felt wheel to polish it for bluing you might just be surprised how consistent the OD is in terms of taper, bellmouth, barrel, etc.

Does it compare to something like a Nesika, Borden, or Defiance? For what it is, it's impressive, but ultimately no. Remington doesn't cylindrically grind the OD of their receivers. I mean, they are made on CNC machines right?
wink.gif


Hope this helped.

C.



 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

I understand just because something is CNC made, doesn't mean its as good as another CNC made product.

Whether a 1.35" ball mill is used, or a .1875" ball mill is used in steps, its still just making a generic shape of a receiver. Unless you're taking dimensions off each individual receiver and custom milling the block to that receiver.

I don't see how that HS stock is any less in need of bedding than a new Mcmillan. It does look bad ass though!
 
Re: Bedding with an aluminum bedding block

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith Johns</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

The guys who say they don't need bedding... if they had to build a rifle that their life depended on, I bet they'd bed it
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Would only help right?
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I'd have zero doubts about using a Remington 700 based rifle in an aics in that situation.

Hell, I want to place well at matches. If I thought bedding my aics/Remington combo would improve my chances, I'd do it. But I don't think it would and I usually do alright.