Rifle Scopes SWFA SS Questions

[zeeohsixinc]

I have a SWFA SS 16x Mil/Mil I bought a few months ago and have finally got to take a look at and shoot. When I was mounting it, I put a bubble level on the elevation turret to make sure the scope was level. However when I looked through the scope, the reticle was canted probably 5 degrees or so. Is this a problem I should be contacting SWFA about or am I just being picky? Also, I need to check it out some more, but it seems like the eye box on this scope is incredibly small, and oftentimes difficult to see the reticle and target clearly without what appears to be glare, although I have a sunshade and am not looking into the sun. These are problems I don't have when looking through my other scopes and am curious if it is normal for the SS.

Thanks,

Nate

 

[Rhenerie]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

I do not have a 16x but i do have a 10x and I have found no noticable reticle cant. I also feel on my 10x the eyebox is huge and very forgiving.

I guess wait and see how others weigh in on the eyebox issue. I would assume the 16 would be smaller but not unuseable.

 

[billyburl2]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

Did you adjust the diopter? And by its design, a 16x is going to have a pretty small eye-box. As far as the reticle goes, was the rifle leveled same as the rifle? Is the rifle level when you are looking through the scope?

 

[Topstrap]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

The elevation turret is not the correct place to place a level when leveling the scope. I'm sure if you did a tracking test it would show that your rounds would not be tracking true up a line as you increased elevation.

If you search using the Google search to the right of these threads you'll find LOTS of threads on how to level a scope and most from this forum. When everything is trued up and it tracks straight up a line thru all the elevation you'll be using at any match you'll attend you then have to learn to trust your level mounted on your scope no matter how it looks on the target. It won't lie.

Our two SS 5-20 scopes also seem to get a bit of glare when we're facing towards the sun even when it's pretty much overhead. We don't have sunshields yet, wonder if the lens might be a tad closer to the end of the housing causing it to get more than other model scopes.

Topstrap

 

[BCP]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

Try turning the elevation turret and placing the level on it I bet your bubble changes after a quarter or so turn.

Make sure the eyepiece is set properly and then experiment with different rings and cheek riser to get a good cheekweld.

If the above doesn't work...send it back to SWFA and maybe ask for a 10 or 12X version instead for a larger eyebox.

 

[NoFail]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

12x

 

[delfuego]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

I have the same feeling on mine. I used 2 levels to set it up and have a US Optic level on the rail. Its seems crooked when the level reads "good". I align the reticle with something vertical and it looks good. I thought it was my eyes, but maybe the caps are not flat and level.

Anyone else have similar experiences? Mine is the 5-20HD.

Sorry, I dont mean to thread-jack...

 

[230grRN]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zeeohsixinc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also, I need to check it out some more, but it seems like the eye box on this scope is incredibly small, and oftentimes difficult to see the reticle and target clearly without what appears to be glare, although I have a sunshade and am not looking into the sun.</div></div>

This is the exact reason I sold my 16x SS. I had no complaints about the clarity or tracking, but the eyebox was just to unforgiving for me to get used to.

 

[0V3RC10CK3D]

Re: SWFA SS Questions

Use the bottom of the scope. The flat surface on the bottom should be parallel to the reticle. I stick mechanic feeler gauges between the rail and this surface until its snug when I push down on the scope. While pushing down the scope can't rotate left or right and should be level and parallel to the rail. Then torque the scope down and pull out the feeler gauges with some vice grips.

Seems to work.