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Gunsmithing Coating issues with kg

glockdan78

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 8, 2009
574
2
45
Austin TX
I recently purchases a lightly used barreled action. Specs are .....stiller tac 300 , rock creek 8.5 twist 7mm rem varmint chambered in 280 ai. I'm throwing ths in a manners t3 and its going to be light tac/hunting rig. I live close to KG industries and decided to let them coat the whole thing (minus the bolt) with their gunkote. They said they would knock it out in a week. Well I hadn't heard anything from them for a while and decided to give them a call. I spoke with Seth their coating guy and he said that he can't get the kg to adhere to the barreled action in the vicinity of the recoil lug. He says the tennon area is sweating oil when it's baked and the oil won't allow the kg to stick. They have tried it several times and are apparently going to just keep sand blasting and coating til it works. Anyone ever heard of issues like this?
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

Yes. Heat it up to pull the oils out, which are probably assembly grease, then soak in acetone, and I mean soak, not spray and wipe. Common practice for prepping metal for Cera.
I use to get that a lot from between the extension and the barrel on ARs a lot.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

We recently had a Savage in the shop that must have taken 10 soak bake cycles to get it to quit weeping. It just comes with the territory.

On our own builds we switched from traditional liquid brush on neverseize to Loctite QuickStix Copper Anti-Seize that is a semi solid. This completely stopped the weepage on guns built in house.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

I'm working on a Mossy 500 at the moment with a ribbed barrel. Seems like the oil likes to hide under those ribs which is a fucking PITA. Soak then bake and repeat until the oil stops showing spots. It's all you can do because if you coat it as is, it will flake off in no time.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

When we do coatings (different type), we completely disassemble the barrelled action to cut down on weeping. It takes ALOT of time to get the assembly grease to cook out and for the 10 minutes of work we take it apart. Makes blasting it easier as well. We then reassemble with grease on the threads that stays put, ie anti-seize.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

Yup just heat it til all the oils release. I also use their degreaser which works awesome. I have been using their products for close to 10yrs without a single issue. Even when oil has leaked onto the surface it didnt effect the adhesion.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

Like others have said, this is normal. I used to just bake the parts until the oils stopped, but boiling worked much better. You need to leave the part in there for a while, after media blasting it. Be prepared to coat as soon as it's out. It will dry right now and start to rust if not handled properly. Gloves and a not humid environment help. I've had the best results with KG this way.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

I tried the water route. If rust starts before you get it coated you're fucked. It will continue to rust under the coating until it bubbles up. It might take some time for this to happen but it will. Stainless steels you might get away with but I've seen some steel start rusting in seconds after being wet. Some rust might not be visible but it could still be there.

I suggest if you go this route re-blast it after it's good and dry. Blow it off and spray it with some acetone then put it in the oven again for 20-30 minutes. Let cool, then coat.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

Only thing you can do is heat it up and spray it down. I use non clorinated break cleaner. Repeat the process until it stops, I do this instead of disasembling one. I use Norrell's and have never had a problem with adhesion.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

when I have issues with it, I bead blast then ,parkerize, works good for me, when I cant get dura coate or cera koate to stick.
 
Re: Coating issues with kg

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Gunsmith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">when I have issues with it, I bead blast then ,parkerize, works good for me, when I cant get dura coate or cera koate to stick.
</div></div>

Must be nice. I'd like to parkerize this stupid Mossy 500 barrel in which I can't get it to stop weeping where the ribs meet the barrel. Having to Cerakote the fucker bright pink doesn't make it anymore fun either. I need to learn to say "no".