Gunsmithing Timing Ross' Muzzle Brake - UPDATE WITH PICS

[gunshinestate]

**UPDATE / 2 posts down I added PHOTOS and INFO / Brake arrived - measurements posted -
New guy here - I've built an AR and decided to pick up a bolt gun and learn the ins-n-outs. I should have one of Ross' muzzle brakes in the mail any day now and want to install myself. I've done some reading and most topics involve how to thread, etc. I've got the 700 AAC and informed Ross of the shoulder behind the threads that remington leaves on the AAC barrels. He was aware and was going to remove the first thread or two so that I could install the brake W/O a washer (that's my goal). I read a post or two about people going to town on the brake with some wet sandpaper and I'll probably go this route. I'd rather try this myself without taking to a smith if possible (and not using washers). Wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions - tips, etc for me. Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[sawman556]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

I use a 2" thick piece of perfectly flat marble and sandpaper 180-320-600. I pull the brake lightly towards me across the paper. I rotate it a few degrees for my next pass and so on. I don't push hard and I apply all the pressure to the center of the brake as I pull it. Do a few passes at a time and check it. Make sure you blow all the dust off first. When you get close go to a finer sandpaper. A little at a time and check and repeat until you are there. Make sure you get it tight when you get close. I also found that leaving TDC about 10 degrees or so to the left of 12 o'clock is a good idea for your first range trip. I thought I had mine perfect until I heated up my barrel and found that my TDC ended up being about 5 degrees past 12. I had to redo it by going completely 360 degrees. Water just makes a mess.

This is how I do it. I was not taught this and I have no idea how the pros time their brakes. Try at your own risk.

Make sure your ID is bigger then your projectile. If it hasn't been ID'ed I would send it to someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[gunshinestate]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

Thank you for your reply!.

The brake arrived today and looks great!

Read below please - Check my math?


I took some pics because I am wondering what my best course of action should be. I am trying to figure out if I could back the brake off by about 1/4 turn and put the strongest loc-tite on it to keep it there? Seems pretty rigged but there isnt a gap large enough to see. -OR- Do I do the sandpaper method and shave off about .028 (tape measure shows about a hair under 1/32) ? Seems like a lot to shave off using sandpaper but I've never done this before so I dont know just how strong the sandpaper method is when it comes to shaving off the steel.
Pics below show where it is now

The brake, when screwed on tight, is about 80 degrees past 12 o'clock. *pic 1

Backed off the 80 degrees. Gap barely noticeable unless light is behind it. Is using loc-tite to keep it there a dumb idea (seems it but just putting it out there)?

Here it is backed off about 440 degrees (full rotation plus the 80 or so that it was overshooting 12 o'clock)
It shows the amount that i'll have to shave off (about - .027 --280 degrees worth of metal needs to be shaved off, correct?)
I have 5/8-24
I need to rotate the muzzle about 280 degrees more in order to time it to 12 o'clock. If I account for the 1/16 for tightening ---
.0001 x 270 = .027 that needs to be removed. Does this sound about right?

 

[colchester]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

The thread pitch is .0416666" divided by 360* = .0001157" multiply by the 270* of additional rotation you need comes out to.0312" material to be removed.

 

[gunshinestate]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

Do you think that's a doable amount using the sandpaper method?

 

[ugsly]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

I wouldn't use loc tight, have it done right. Timing brakes can be a pain, take .001 off to much and it will clock a hair off.

.0312 is quite a bit to take off using sandpaper while trying to keep it square.

Kc

 

[sawman556]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

I don't believe 1/32" is all that much. It's a $45 brake. If you fuck up it's not the end of the world. You need to do 1 of 4 things:

1. Leave it where it is and tell everyone that was designed that way for full-auto.

2. Send it to someone who can do it.

3. Use a washer.

4. Try it your self.

 

[jsthntn247]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

Get u a crush washer, should be about right.

 

[Killer Spade 13]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

I second the washer.

 

[Topstrap]

Re: Installing Ross' Muzzle Brake - 1st timer

I just used a rubber o-ring and it has been working fine all summer long and not moved once it's lined up. Maybe not the prettiest but it works and I can switch between it and a Harrell's brake easily. Yeah it'd be nice to be machined for a perfect fit but pretty don't make it shoot any better.

Topstrap

 

[Bill Larson]

Re: Timing Ross' Muzzle Brake - UPDATE WITH PICS

muzzle brakes are a deep subject.Aside from changing POI and possible accuracy degradation the design of the brake affects how well they reduce recoil.The more room/clearence ( usually around .020") at the muzzle of the brake where the bullet leaves affects performance of the brake.
Most barrel O.D`s are not concentric with bore,so the bore of the brake should be centered on barrel bore and O.D. of barrel should be concentric with O.D. of brake.This requires 2 seperate lathe set-ups.Now an angled seat on the brake could result in cocking the brake and bullet interference.

 

[STR]

Re: Timing Ross' Muzzle Brake - UPDATE WITH PICS

.031 inch is a lot of sanding. A LOT of sanding. Keeping the face square will also be a challenge, even if you sand in a figure 8 form. Is it doable?? Yes. Like it was already said, if you foul it up, it's only $45.00 plus the wait for another one. Best of luck.

 

[gunshinestate]

Re: Timing Ross' Muzzle Brake - UPDATE WITH PICS

I did some more reading and it definitely seems like sanding away that much is just asking for trouble.
I reached out to a local smith to see if I can get it timed correctly.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions and info.
Thanks again!

 

[the_gun_slinger19]

Re: Timing Ross' Muzzle Brake - UPDATE WITH PICS

What about putting it on a lathe?? Used to make breaks for my 22's when I was younger with a drillpress and a lathe. Should take a matter of mintues form setup and cut to back on your rifle. Possibly cut a grove then weld, grind, resurface to match. You'd almost never you know it wasnt machined into the barrel.