Re: Homemade 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: skog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will be making it from barstock. My dilema is I have access to some high quality milling equiptment and software. I am severally lacking in the lathe department. May have to stick with a prechambered barrel and factory tenon.
For the extractor cuts i would experiment with scrap first but I bet if you dykem the tenon and then close the bolt with the extractors installed. Then just cut the scribe marks. </div></div>
If you have a HMC (horizontal milling center) you coooouuuullllddddd fit the barrel up that way if your a bad ass.
just make/buy a mandrel that slips into the bore a few inches (think long gauge pin), indicate along its length to square it up in all the orientations, thread mill your barrel, and then chamber. Chambering a 22 is super easy. Half the time I don't even do it in a lathe. A few spins with a reamer and your done. The modified Anschutz/Wylde chamber works well as its tight up in the throat to help accuracy, but loose enough so that cases will cycle well along the case body.
If I had a HMC mill I'd totally try that method.
Extractor cuts are easy too. Center is center. Find the center of your bore and just get a key cutter. Just be sure that you cut ahead of the tangent on the breech face. You want as much wall thickness as you can get where the X cut goes. This prevents the chamber from ballooning at the X cut as you put mileage on the barrel.
Set you H/S at .041". Set the bolt face depth at .038".
If you make the receiver from AL it would be wise to use a large diameter barrel at the breech. You want the shoulder width to spread the load over the face of the receiver. This will help you prevent overclocking the barrel. Put your barrel on/off the action at least a half dozen times before you cut the X. The threads are going to yield a bit. Nothing is more frustrating that cutting the X cut only to discover it overclocks during final assy.
The last "trick" is to make a differential threading insert on your receiver/barrel. It's a fairly well known trick for serious rimfire guys. It allows you to fiddle with barrel clocking. It's literally a magic wand that allows you to clock the barrel in any position while retaining headspace. All you do is thread the receiver for pitch "X" and then make the barrel threads a different pitch. Machine a coupler that has the appropriate male/female thread. By running the insert up/down the inside of the receiver you can change the start position where the barrel tennon threads begin to bite the coupler. This changes the end point of rotation however HS doesn't change because the breech face to shoulder length remains the same regardless.
Doing this allows you to run a reverse cone breech so that X cuts become a thing of the past. It'll work in any clock position.
I do this quite a bit on rimfire BR guns so that shooters can wring out a barrel and get super small without having to dicker with a tuner.
Works well and is super simple.
Good luck.
C.
