Re: Seating .223 bullets for AR15
sentry1,
Reloading for an AR is getting into the deep end of the pool. It's advanced handloading, as is any form of reloading for gas operated Service Rifles. There's some things you'll need to be aware of, some things to avoid and some extra steps that MUST be taken when loading for these guns. Not to steer you away from it, as I do a tremendous amount of reloading for this type of rifle, but just to give you a fair warning that it takes a bit more attention to detail. Bolt guns are wonderfully forgiving, and there's just a lot of things that you can do "wrong" with them, and still get away with it. No such wiggle room for the ARs.
Fortunately, there's some pretty good sources for info on reloading for gas guns. One of the Sierra manuals has a section on "Reloading for Service Rifles" that will hopefully get you started on the right path. It's a pinned thread on either
www.6mmBR.com or
www.usriflesteams.com. This second site is also a very good resource, and there are specific forums for reloading for gas guns that you'll find a ton of info. Perhaps the best single source is Glen Zediker's book, "Handloading for Competition; Making the Target Bigger." Available through Sinclair's, Midway and the usual suspect, it covers precision handloading techniques specific to match ammunition. Glen is a long time competitive Service Rifle shooter, and a very large percentage of the book is geared specifically towards the ARs and the M1A rifles. Worth its weight in gold, and I recommend it strongly. Glen's got a bit of an eclectic writing style that some folks don't care for, but the info is priceless, and I've always found his stuff amusing.
My basic rules for loading for gas guns are;
1) Full Length size, always, without fail, ever. Small Base dies are even better, and will reduce the chances of problems to nearly nil.
2) Have, and use, a gage to set up your dies. Forget the standard bolt gun dimensions in re headspace, and MAKE SURE that you're setting the shoulders back by at least .003"-.004". The standard of .001"-.002" is fine for bolt guns, but it will get you into trouble with a gas gun. They're different animals , and they need to be treated very differently.
3) Keep the cases trimmed below SAAMI max length. Roughly .010" is standard, but if your die is asking for something more, that's okay too.
4) Make sure that you're using a powder that's compatible with your gas system. Gas guns have some very specific needs concerning port pressures and pressure curves. Ask around some knowledgable gas gun shooters, and you'll get a feel for this. This is especially important for M1s and M1As, as you can badly damage a gun even with loads that are developing perfectly safe pressures, well under maximum limits.
5) Seating depth and OAL is generally determined by mag length, and it's usually a set in stone figure. That, or you'll need to single load, as I mentioned. Not always a problem, depending on what you're doing.
6) Crimping. This seems to be a real fascination for some folks when reloading gas guns, and frankly, there's rarely any real need for it. That, and the fact that it generally complicates accuracy issues. I suggest you don't, unless there's a real and genuine need for it. Even then, remember that "less is more" and that this is very easily overdone. The bare minimum amount you can get away with, and let proper neck tension take care of the rest.
7) Use a chamber type gage, such as the L.E. Wilson (Dillon sells 'em) to ensure that all the rounds drop in freely, and fall back out just as easily. Not enough people use these gages, and that absence makes for a lot of easily avoidable problems out on the line. Use them; they're your friends.
I'm sure there's some others, but these are the basics that should get you going. Don't hesitate to ask questions, always glad to help.
