how are your AR10 variants treating your brass? From a reloader perspective, I find that the brass is a bit beat up from these platforms.
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Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
Semi-autos, in general and regardless of the particular platform, are harder on brass than your average bolt gun. How "beat up" your brass is getting is a relative thing...pics of any damage or wear/tear to your brass might help in that regard. If you can be a little more specific as to the specific way in which your brass is taking a beating, there may be ways to help minimize the impact at least to a certain degree (for example - Adjustable gas block to decrease the cyclic rate and ease some of the battery/etc.; a heavier buffer/spring combo; a carrier weight; a small patch of "loop" side of velcro applied to the brass deflector if your cases are getting dinged up by the deflector; changing types of brass...for example FGMM brass is notoriously soft compared to other mfgs and it doesn't hold up as well in semis; etc.; etc.).
Semi-autos, in general and regardless of the particular platform, are harder on brass than your average bolt gun. How "beat up" your brass is getting is a relative thing...pics of any damage or wear/tear to your brass might help in that regard. If you can be a little more specific as to the specific way in which your brass is taking a beating, there may be ways to help minimize the impact at least to a certain degree (for example - Adjustable gas block to decrease the cyclic rate and ease some of the battery/etc.; a heavier buffer/spring combo; a carrier weight; a small patch of "loop" side of velcro applied to the brass deflector if your cases are getting dinged up by the deflector; changing types of brass...for example FGMM brass is notoriously soft compared to other mfgs and it doesn't hold up as well in semis; etc.; etc.).
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
Beating up brass has been one of the few things I don't like about my 7.62 AR. I've pretty much given up on trying to stop it. I load for my bolt guns first and when brass is nearing the end of its life, put it in the AR pile. If it gets dinged or lost, no big deal. I just let it go.
Beating up brass has been one of the few things I don't like about my 7.62 AR. I've pretty much given up on trying to stop it. I load for my bolt guns first and when brass is nearing the end of its life, put it in the AR pile. If it gets dinged or lost, no big deal. I just let it go.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor?
Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor?
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BCP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor? </div></div>
Ejector/extractor scrapes plus lost brass.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BCP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor? </div></div>
Ejector/extractor scrapes plus lost brass.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Semi-autos, in general and regardless of the particular platform, are harder on brass than your average bolt gun. How "beat up" your brass is getting is a relative thing...pics of any damage or wear/tear to your brass might help in that regard. If you can be a little more specific as to the specific way in which your brass is taking a beating, there may be ways to help minimize the impact at least to a certain degree (for example - Adjustable gas block to decrease the cyclic rate and ease some of the battery/etc.; a heavier buffer/spring combo; a carrier weight; a small patch of "loop" side of velcro applied to the brass deflector if your cases are getting dinged up by the deflector; changing types of brass...for example FGMM brass is notoriously soft compared to other mfgs and it doesn't hold up as well in semis; etc.; etc.). </div></div>
Also helps to properly prep the brass. Don't ask how many reloads I've seen with M118 brass.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Semi-autos, in general and regardless of the particular platform, are harder on brass than your average bolt gun. How "beat up" your brass is getting is a relative thing...pics of any damage or wear/tear to your brass might help in that regard. If you can be a little more specific as to the specific way in which your brass is taking a beating, there may be ways to help minimize the impact at least to a certain degree (for example - Adjustable gas block to decrease the cyclic rate and ease some of the battery/etc.; a heavier buffer/spring combo; a carrier weight; a small patch of "loop" side of velcro applied to the brass deflector if your cases are getting dinged up by the deflector; changing types of brass...for example FGMM brass is notoriously soft compared to other mfgs and it doesn't hold up as well in semis; etc.; etc.). </div></div>
Also helps to properly prep the brass. Don't ask how many reloads I've seen with M118 brass.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
My DPMS treats the brass fine... I have to put a bag over my ejection port to keep the brass from getting more effed up than necessary as it hits the concrete floor, though. Gravity is doing more damage to it (especially the FGMM brass) than the weapon is.
My DPMS treats the brass fine... I have to put a bag over my ejection port to keep the brass from getting more effed up than necessary as it hits the concrete floor, though. Gravity is doing more damage to it (especially the FGMM brass) than the weapon is.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
My OBR was beating my M118lr brass up pretty good. I put in a Tubb buffer spring for another reason, but it seems that the brass is looking better as well. Others I have spoken to relay similar experiences.
My OBR was beating my M118lr brass up pretty good. I put in a Tubb buffer spring for another reason, but it seems that the brass is looking better as well. Others I have spoken to relay similar experiences.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
I use military brass in my auto loaders ( thicker) and the rims seem hold up better. I am tweaking my ejector spring to try to get forward ejection on my armalite ar10 to keep it from hitting the reciever. If you want to cry fire match ammo from an HK. IF you can find them that is.
I use military brass in my auto loaders ( thicker) and the rims seem hold up better. I am tweaking my ejector spring to try to get forward ejection on my armalite ar10 to keep it from hitting the reciever. If you want to cry fire match ammo from an HK. IF you can find them that is.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJY65</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BCP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor? </div></div>
Ejector/extractor scrapes plus lost brass. </div></div>
Probably running a load that is too hot for your rifle another culprit can be a sharp extractor it'll shave pieces of brass of the rim. Soft brass can also do it.
I get about 5-6 loads out of win brass before the primer pockets start to get soft, maybe 8-10 out of LC before same. I could still run b/c no other marks on the cases they look brand new but after having a loose primer end up inside the barrel extension at a match I don't chance it. Brass is cheap.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJY65</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BCP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mine looks fine. Are you noticing dents in the side of it or scrapes on the head from the ejector/extractor? </div></div>
Ejector/extractor scrapes plus lost brass. </div></div>
Probably running a load that is too hot for your rifle another culprit can be a sharp extractor it'll shave pieces of brass of the rim. Soft brass can also do it.
I get about 5-6 loads out of win brass before the primer pockets start to get soft, maybe 8-10 out of LC before same. I could still run b/c no other marks on the cases they look brand new but after having a loose primer end up inside the barrel extension at a match I don't chance it. Brass is cheap.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
My semi's are generally harder on brass than my bolt action TRG and AIAW. So I shoot my Lapua brass in my bolt guns and range pick up brass sorted my maker in my semi"s.
My semi's are generally harder on brass than my bolt action TRG and AIAW. So I shoot my Lapua brass in my bolt guns and range pick up brass sorted my maker in my semi"s.
Re: 7.62 AR and brass life
It goes with the territory. But hotter loads are going to lessen brass life in a semi. The bolt can and will start to blow back & extract the case before the brass completes the expansion/retraction proccess. So the bolt/extractor is pulling back on case rim while case is still tight against chamber walls. Swiped rims & scratches running the length case wall is the indicator of it.
I suggest an adjustable gas block so you can control the pressure utilized to blow the bolt back. Adjust the gas block port just enough to actuate the action reliably with whatever ammo your shooting and that will help a lot.
Lots of gas guns are over gassed.
But still it's probably best to not shoot the same hot loads you know are being loaded safely for bolt guns.
Your brass will get trashed and you will break extractor(s), or worse. I broke my extractor and it had low mileage. I got a new one on warranty and ordered a spare at the same time.
It goes with the territory. But hotter loads are going to lessen brass life in a semi. The bolt can and will start to blow back & extract the case before the brass completes the expansion/retraction proccess. So the bolt/extractor is pulling back on case rim while case is still tight against chamber walls. Swiped rims & scratches running the length case wall is the indicator of it.
I suggest an adjustable gas block so you can control the pressure utilized to blow the bolt back. Adjust the gas block port just enough to actuate the action reliably with whatever ammo your shooting and that will help a lot.
Lots of gas guns are over gassed.
But still it's probably best to not shoot the same hot loads you know are being loaded safely for bolt guns.
Your brass will get trashed and you will break extractor(s), or worse. I broke my extractor and it had low mileage. I got a new one on warranty and ordered a spare at the same time.
