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Help painting 700

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Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 11, 2012
140
0
57
Rochester, NY
So i've never painted a rifle before and this is my first tactical build. I plan on using an airsbrush to paint both my stock and scope a solid desert tan camo. What is the best type of paint for this?
Thanks in advance, Jake
 
Re: Help painting 700

I cannot shed a whole lot of light by personal experience but from what I have read on these forums, most people swear by Krylon.
 
Re: Help painting 700

Krylon for temporary, Cerakote for permanent.
 
Re: Help painting 700

if you want it to last longer than a rattle can paint job then i suggest a non bake on ceramic based paint such as Duracoat or Cerakote. both have formulas that do not require baking in the oven and it is a lot stronger than Krylon will ever be. main reason a lot of us use Krylon is because we don't have the time or money to send it off to someone so have them do it in Cerakote. that and the fact Krylon can be taken off and repainted if you decide to change the pattern.

there are some who use ca ceramic based paint as a base due to its durability and then do a Krylon camo job over it.
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: x SNIPER x</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So i've never painted a rifle before and this is my first tactical build. I plan on using an airsbrush to paint both my stock and scope a solid desert tan camo. What is the best type of paint for this?
Thanks in advance, Jake </div></div>

If you already have an airbrush you can do it yourself with Duracoat. They sell prepackaged kits that are pretty cheap. Prep of the item is key but other than that it's pretty caveman proof. Link to their website is: http://www.lauerweaponry.com/
 
Re: Help painting 700

I've been using Krylon lately on a lot of my projects. If I F'up, I can always remove it and re-do it again.

Don't care too much how the rifle looks as long as it shoots well.
 
Re: Help painting 700

Here's a BC I painted. Just put rubber gloves on, get some alcohol, paint thinner, carb cleaner etc. wipe er down, mask off butt plate, sling studs, and the action, and barrel area and spray, many thin coats, and get some krylon fusion satin clear, and go over it at least 5 times.
IMG_2785.jpg

Mine was factory black, and their a tad shiny, so I used Flat black.
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: x SNIPER x</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What would you need to prep it? and how </div></div>
The kits usually come with a degreaser/prep solution to get any excess gunk off so the duracoat adheres to the object. Other prep is any masking of pieces you don't want painted. If you dont clean the oil off of the object it can cause the duracoat to run and or not adhere so no matter how dry you think your gun is, degrease it.

Practice shooting the duracoat on something first to get the hang of how thick you want it and to adjust your nozzle. If you've used a airbrush before and are familiar with how it sprays you can probably skip this step.

Don't get impatient, let the paint dry per the instructions before applying a different color or another coat ,especially before handling . There are "how to" videos on the website that walk you through the whole process. Also make sure you use the amounts they say you should mix together ratio wise, it does make a difference. It's really not that hard and once you do it yourself you will balk at what some places charge for duracoating .
 
Re: Help painting 700

I wouldn't dura coat it, as it's a much more expensive "non permanent" paint. It will come off, and if I was looking to do a permanent paint job I'd use Ceracoat, or pay someone to do it. I've got a 22 and so does my buddy, that's been hunted with for several years, and using fusion, several coats and then clearing it will last a long time. Neither of the guns even has a flake, and for plastic type surfaces it adheres great. Plus with krylon, you can change it if you get it wrong, or don't like it, as many times as you wanna.
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TJ.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No idea if this kid knows anything about firearms but he paints well :)

http://www.8541tactical.com/rifle%20painting.php </div></div>

The guy knows his stuff have watched a few of his videos and its a solid resource for LRTR and shooting in general
 
Re: Help painting 700

Seems like a talented paint that is the sort of camo i originally wanted before deciding on a solid tan. I was looking at cerakote derert sage like so :

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/C-212Q/

anybody know how to best apply this or if posible can it be airbrsuhed? I dint know much about airbrushing I know my grandfather would let me borrow his to paint my stock and rifle. Any advice on how to approach?
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: groundhogbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I wouldn't dura coat it, as it's a much more expensive "non permanent" paint. It will come off, and if I was looking to do a permanent paint job I'd use Ceracoat, or pay someone to do it. I've got a 22 and so does my buddy, that's been hunted with for several years, and using fusion, several coats and then clearing it will last a long time. Neither of the guns even has a flake, and for plastic type surfaces it adheres great. Plus with krylon, you can change it if you get it wrong, or don't like it, as many times as you wanna. </div></div>

I'm a fan of krylon paint jobs, they've been on my weapons from Iraq to afghanistan and the touch up point is valid. however the items I've duracoated have not needed touch up even after sitting in the weapons cleaning bin solution. You can get it to come off, don't get me wrong, but it 's pretty damn hard to do..
 
Re: Help painting 700

I realize that with Krylon you do have to re-apply from time to time but its a fun project to do in the off season and as for needing an airbrush I wouldn't bother just make sure your area is clear from anything that you don't want spray on it and the can will do you fine. Go light on it though and make sure you tape up everything you wouldn't want paint getting into. Action, screws, OPTICS!, you get the point the 8541 post is pretty thorough, take a look at that before you get started. Follows what we used to do pretty closely.
 
Re: Help painting 700

Some good links here on the DIY painting techniques. However, one thing I've noticed in all of them is that they all seem to go a tad too heavy on the shadow colors. And as one of the articles pointed out, the author failed to put the lightest color on first and then follow up with the other colors. Always start with your lightest colors and sparingly apply the others, less is actually more. Now before someone points out that the colors have to match the environment, thus all the dark color(s), I will say this, what about when you are not in shadow? When your environment changes to a lighter color you now might as well have a bright orange gun.

If you look at animals in nature, they typically have a very light color fur (usually white) and a tan/light brownish/golden color and they are solids, no cool patterns. They all tend to blend in extremely well in just about all environs they move through. Also look at Multicam, it blends into most environments better than others, it tends to be on the light side of the color wheel. Light colors blend into shadow easier than dark colors blend into light ones so it's a safe bet to stay with a more predominantly light color even when using several colors.

Another thing I didn't see mentioned was the need to paint the inside of your scope caps and I assume this is because most people don't have people looking for them with spotting scopes. However, when you flip that scope cap up and it's black side is facing your target, that nice symmetrically round black scope cap stands out like a beacon to the eye.

There used to be a product called Bowflage on the market that came with everything you needed to paint your weapon to include a fake piece of plastic foliage and instructions. It was designed to be removed if need be but it worked really well. It also came in small spray cans that you could carry in your kit just in case your environment changed. It can be a fun project to paint your kit and as one of the articles mentioned , there really is no text book right or wrong as long as your weapon blends into the environment you move in.
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Temp9</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biggenius29</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...693#Post3600693

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...932#Post3619932

What was wrong with these answers?


</div></div>

It seems this fellow has a habit of posting every question 7-8 times. Have you seen his scope threads? </div></div>

I gave him a refresher in case he forgot the answers guys already gave him.
 
Re: Help painting 700

This is completely seperate one thread asked recomendations on what color and the other was for a different rifle. I post often because noby usually answers my question. Thanks to those of you with advice i appreciate it
 
Re: Help painting 700

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Temp9</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Krylon for temporary, Cerakote for permanent. </div></div>

+1

I prefer Kylon for the ability to remove it if you change your mind or your AO.

Here is a pic of mine in use at the Mammoth Cave Sniper Challenge.

MikeonFR.jpg


Mike