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brass life ?

Re: brass life ?

Huge open ended question with several variables that can effect the correct answer by multiples. You are about to get an education from the community that will serve you well. But, I'll make a few inferences to your equipment and ability, and consider the safety of all involved and (I know it's wrong) give you a number...4.
 
Re: brass life ?

Depends on how hot your loads are, how you resize, and if you anneal
 
Re: brass life ?

I shoot 168 Berger vld, 7828 ssc 70 grains, I fl resize. My problem is I keep getting my brass stuck in the chamber. Is that from reloading the brassy many times, or are my loads to hot?
 
Re: brass life ?

My conscience won't let me not really help you.

Check for:
loose primers
bright spots on the case just in front of the case head
split necks
work hardened brass that won't size
case stretching, the brass is coming from somewhere

And most importantly use a pick to "feel" the inside of the case, checking for thinning of the case in the webbing in front of the head where it begins to form the body. If it separates here you're in trouble, so this is paramount. If you aren't sure, start cutting/grinding one of your cases into a cross-section after each reload, so you see the thinning starting to take place. Pitch em early = small amount of lost $, Pitch em late = small amount of lost flesh/life

A few variables that influence the serviceable life of cases:
amount of re-sizing
-sizing method - FL, neck, shoulder bump, etc.
-chamber and die deviation
-skill of handloader
-concentricity of chamber, die, and brass
-forming process
case design
-capacity relative to bore size
-body taper
-shoulder angle
-headspace point
case prep
-annealing
-number of steps that work brass
-chemical cleaning
brass itself
-metallurgy
-quality control
load pressure
prioritization of safety

Some folks claim 50 or more most get much less. There is a bell curve to this topic that directly correlates to a handloaders manipulation of (but not limited to) the above variables. I am guessing from your question that your understanding places you on the left side of the bell. When I started handloading (left side of the bell) my self respecting limit on my 300 RUM (similar case) was 4.

So my guess is 4.


 
Re: brass life ?

Did they always stick (rough chamber, etc) or start to stick as your loads got hotter (excessive pressure)? Sounds like excess pressure, to me. If this has started as you worked up your load, then you are expanding your chamber and brass so much that when the steel in your barrel springs back to its original size it traps the brass in a friction lock. Not good.
 
Re: brass life ?

Its has happened 2 times now, and the second was this morning. The first time the gun smith had to remove my barrel to get the brass out, I took it back to him and he said the same thing. Excess pressure. The first time it was a load I worked up o. My
 
Re: brass life ?

My second load is the one I've had, and have shot 500 rounds of it.how do I check the pressure of the load or is it something I have to watch the cases for?
 
Re: brass life ?

Maybe. Back off, start with some new brass and work up to a reasonable load. Toss the brass you are using. Keep an eye on the pressure. In your case, (pun intended) I'd look for the next node down from 70 grains. I think your rifle is telling you something.
 
Re: brass life ?

+1 Prudent and useful advise.

Anytime your bolt lift feels sticky or your case gets stuck you usually have a pressure problem.

Use a chronograph. Velocity is the only way for the layman to track pressure before he has an excessive pressure problem. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Your velocity is a direct result of pressure.
 
Re: brass life ?

I doubt you have ruined the rifle, but you need to change your method asap.
 
Re: brass life ?

I would start with switching back to factory rounds. You need to put more time into correct procedures and safe reloading practices. This stuff can be a lot more than expensive it can be dangerous. I would suggest getting a local that can help you work up a load safely, with some extra time spent on brass prep. Most importantly is the fastest hottest load is RARELY the most accurate.
 
Re: brass life ?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: little_lost51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I shoot 168 Berger vld, 7828 ssc 70 grains, I fl resize. My problem is I keep getting my brass stuck in the chamber. Is that from reloading the brassy many times, or are my loads to hot? </div></div>If you've chron'd that load, I'd like to know the velocity.

FWIW: I think that's a pretty stiff load.

If it were me: Shoot a factory load and see if it sticks. Then compare the stuck case to the fired factory case to an unfired factory case to see where they stretched.
 
Re: brass life ?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: little_lost51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How many times can you reload 300 WSM brass? </div></div>I'm on my 11th load on one lot of Winchester 300WSM brass.

I throw 208 A-Maxes from 2650fps to 2900. I didn't neck turn until after the 9th firing and 3rd annealing. Suddenly sub moa at 700 yards.

Never a difficult bolt lift. Especially compared to my Mosin. My primers are never mushroomed.

Annealed 3 times so far. FL sized after annealing.

Primer pockets are getting a little tired but all in all, still good. Just loaded them with 60gns of H4350 for ~2700fps.

Only case split was during neck sizing.
 
Re: brass life ?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: little_lost51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My velocity is 2913 is the average on a 20 round sting.
</div></div>Reminder: I shoot 300WSM.

That's not very fast for a 168 vld.

With that projectile+powder (7828), IMHO you are spending more powder energy expanding your cases than sending your projectile, a dangerous situation.

Lots of factors:
Neck thickness
Neck tension
Seating depth into/from the lands.

on and on and on..

No one here can give you a definitive answer without laying hands on the rifle, fired case and your prepped cases.

Try my suggestion and see how it goes.

Since you added your velocity, unless you have a large stockpile, again If it were me, switch to H4350.

FWIW: Hodgdon site says 7828 is for heavier bullets or longer cases. I think you should review this article for better suggested loads http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek092.html
 
Re: brass life ?

That velocity seems reasonable, I have a few questions:
How long is your barrel?
What's your extreme spread?
Do you use an automatic powder dispenser?
Do you crimp?
Has it been shots from the mag that have stuck or do you hand feed from the bench?
How many times have you reloaded the brass cases that have stuck.
 
Re: brass life ?

Away for business for a couple days.

This months issue of "Handloader" magazine covers this very issue. Slow powders, light projectiles.

IMHO recommended reading.

BTW: My view of this load is it's very slow compared to the velocity that would result from using a better matched powder. A 300WSM can throw 168s well over 3000.
 
Re: brass life ?

Lost - I run a 300 WSM and my first impression is that your load is on the hot side but I doubt the rifle is ruined. Not sure how you arrived at the loads you are running or your level of experience with reloading is but it is wise to start low and work up to find your pressure limits.

There are some good posts by Tresmon on developing a long range load, there are others on the ladder method of developing loads. Again, depending on your experience level, might be good to go do some research/learning.

Attached is a link to the article I wrote on my rifle some years back. It captures some of the processes and there is some load data that you could use for a gut check. My 300 was always more accurate with loads that were below max pressure while my 7RM loves pressure. Every rifle has its own personality, you just need to find what works for yours.

300 WSM Article

My 300 WSM brass lasts about 10 loads before its "tired". I never see loose primer pockets but the necks thin out and the brass flows fowards in the C/N junction forming a donut. Annealing helps but it does not last for ever.
 
Just an update:

Lot #1 of Winchester head stamp is down to 18 pieces from 20. On it's 16th firing. I dumped 2 because of loose primer pockets.

Lot #2 is fine after 10 firings and still quite tight pp.

I launch 208 A-Maxes at 2732fps with H4350 or (now with the shortage) H4831. I will 'retire' lot #1 after this firing and cut some in half to look at how they held up.