just got the can sat., 1st shots done today...
would like to do again when i have more time/ammo
brake
http://www.silencershop.com/shop/yhm-phantom-7-62-q-d-muzzle-brake
Suppressors my YHM Ti Phantom 308 QD test
- Thread starter Ring
- Start date
just got the can sat., 1st shots done today...
would like to do again when i have more time/ammo
brake
http://www.silencershop.com/shop/yhm-phantom-7-62-q-d-muzzle-brake
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
accuracy wise or POI?
accuracy, i need to retest, these were some fast loads i threw and didnt chk weight on, need to run some precise loads, group size looks close to my normal load
accuracy wise or POI?
accuracy, i need to retest, these were some fast loads i threw and didnt chk weight on, need to run some precise loads, group size looks close to my normal load
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
On-Off each shot?????
On-Off each shot?????
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Spade 13</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On-Off each shot?????</div></div>
on the middle target yes..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Spade 13</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On-Off each shot?????</div></div>
on the middle target yes..
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
2nd test, better ammo
2nd test, better ammo
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize..
small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize..
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads..
Those are pretty good groups for the YHM baffle design. Unfortunately the YHM's are not known for their accuracy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads..
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
the threads were fine.. what happend was a carbon "doughnut" formed on the tip of the QD and would not allow it to come off till yanking on it chipped enough away..
the threads were fine.. what happend was a carbon "doughnut" formed on the tip of the QD and would not allow it to come off till yanking on it chipped enough away..
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads.. Those are pretty good groups for the YHM baffle design. <span style="color: #CC0000">Unfortunately the YHM's are not known for their accuracy.</span> </div></div>
I will strongly disagree with your statement. My YHM Phantom sits on one of my most accurate rifles I own and it has not hurt its group sizes at all.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads..
I will strongly disagree with your statement. My YHM Phantom sits on one of my most accurate rifles I own and it has not hurt its group sizes at all.
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads.. Those are pretty good groups for the YHM baffle design. <span style="color: #CC0000">Unfortunately the YHM's are not known for their accuracy.</span> </div></div>
I will strongly disagree with your statement. My YHM Phantom sits on one of my most accurate rifles I own and it has not hurt its group sizes at all. </div></div>
It's just an excuse for Aaron when he's using his, he needs all of them he can get. I never had any issues with my phantom direct thread other than the massive poi shift just due to the weight. (4moa if I remember right)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body">small update... dont leave the can on for hundreds of rounds and not remove it.. the carbon build up on the QD will make it NOT want to come off....
suggestion would be remove it at least ever 200 or so clean the carbon off the QD and coat the tip in anti-seize.. </div></div>
Little tip: Use anti-seize on your threads..
I will strongly disagree with your statement. My YHM Phantom sits on one of my most accurate rifles I own and it has not hurt its group sizes at all. </div></div>
It's just an excuse for Aaron when he's using his, he needs all of them he can get. I never had any issues with my phantom direct thread other than the massive poi shift just due to the weight. (4moa if I remember right)
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
I own the Steel QD version and the Ti QD version. The Ti version is one of the most accurate cans I have shot with that had the QD feature. For the money, they are hard to beat. The steel ones are built like a tank, I shoot everything from 223 to 300WM and 7WSM thru them. And they still look new to me!
I own the Steel QD version and the Ti QD version. The Ti version is one of the most accurate cans I have shot with that had the QD feature. For the money, they are hard to beat. The steel ones are built like a tank, I shoot everything from 223 to 300WM and 7WSM thru them. And they still look new to me!
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
Thanks for posting this. I've settled on the Titanium Phantom for my .30 cal can but I'm trying to decide if I want the QD or thread-on version. QD is a no-brainer if you use it on multiple rifles but I really only plan to have this on one... Decisions decisions.
Thanks for posting this. I've settled on the Titanium Phantom for my .30 cal can but I'm trying to decide if I want the QD or thread-on version. QD is a no-brainer if you use it on multiple rifles but I really only plan to have this on one... Decisions decisions.
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
KYS338 (or anyone else that has experience) - a question for you.
I have a Ti QD 30 cal can in process - dealer has it, waiting impatiently for stamp. I intend to use this on a 308, 7mm RM, and 5.56 AR. What is your recommendation on the adapter - go the brake route or the flash hider route.
Thanks for any and all input!
Kevin
KYS338 (or anyone else that has experience) - a question for you.
I have a Ti QD 30 cal can in process - dealer has it, waiting impatiently for stamp. I intend to use this on a 308, 7mm RM, and 5.56 AR. What is your recommendation on the adapter - go the brake route or the flash hider route.
Thanks for any and all input!
Kevin
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
I use Tue break on my 260 and AR... On the ar if u don't want flash or annoy the shit out of others when not using the can, use the flash
I use Tue break on my 260 and AR... On the ar if u don't want flash or annoy the shit out of others when not using the can, use the flash
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
I have a steel .308 YHM can and I would not buy another one. Buying a suppressor is a pain in the A$$. Get a good one. Mine sits on a shelf unused as the point of impact shifts minute by minute depending on can temperature. This is on a rifle that is a 1/4" rifle without the can. To be fair if I get it hot with five shots and then shoot five more quick shots it will hold close to a 1/4" but shoot at an inconsistent pace with different cool times on can and it becomes a 1-1.5" rifle. Most of this is due to the steel as much as the fact that YHM made the can. Titanium is much more forgiving of POI shift, generally. I did have to send the YHM Phantom back when new as the machining was done improperly. That was when I realized I should have bought something else.
I have a steel .308 YHM can and I would not buy another one. Buying a suppressor is a pain in the A$$. Get a good one. Mine sits on a shelf unused as the point of impact shifts minute by minute depending on can temperature. This is on a rifle that is a 1/4" rifle without the can. To be fair if I get it hot with five shots and then shoot five more quick shots it will hold close to a 1/4" but shoot at an inconsistent pace with different cool times on can and it becomes a 1-1.5" rifle. Most of this is due to the steel as much as the fact that YHM made the can. Titanium is much more forgiving of POI shift, generally. I did have to send the YHM Phantom back when new as the machining was done improperly. That was when I realized I should have bought something else.
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
I've noticed my stainless phantom will start to string shots as it heats up. Maybe mine is an anomaly though. Kudos to you if you are getting precision groups.
I've noticed my stainless phantom will start to string shots as it heats up. Maybe mine is an anomaly though. Kudos to you if you are getting precision groups.
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
my buddy coastal can stings BAD when it gets hot...
my buddy coastal can stings BAD when it gets hot...
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
I've got a direct thread Phantom stainless in the system (.308). As a new guy to the NFA game, I do not know what to expect from this set up. The dealer -who's a good dude-says I will see some shift but I'm sure I can record and adjust for that. I'll be sure to advise when I get it all together. I don't know if this helps, just thinking out loud. Good luck and good shooting!
Doug
I've got a direct thread Phantom stainless in the system (.308). As a new guy to the NFA game, I do not know what to expect from this set up. The dealer -who's a good dude-says I will see some shift but I'm sure I can record and adjust for that. I'll be sure to advise when I get it all together. I don't know if this helps, just thinking out loud. Good luck and good shooting!
Doug
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've noticed my stainless phantom will start to string shots as it heats up. Maybe mine is an anomaly though. Kudos to you if you are getting precision groups. </div></div>
Buy their muzzle brake. It makes a difference in performance on the steel cans. Trust me, I have tested them four or five times now. I own 7 steel cans and their Ti version. The brake makes a difference on the bolt guns.
Good Luck.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: flounderv2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've noticed my stainless phantom will start to string shots as it heats up. Maybe mine is an anomaly though. Kudos to you if you are getting precision groups. </div></div>
Buy their muzzle brake. It makes a difference in performance on the steel cans. Trust me, I have tested them four or five times now. I own 7 steel cans and their Ti version. The brake makes a difference on the bolt guns.
Good Luck.
Re: my YHM Ti Phanton 308 QD test
My steel phantom QD is awesome. I use their flash hider on several guns. On my .308 5R the phantom is 100% repeatable after removing and reinstalling. I have a consistent 2 moa up shift every single time I screw the can on.
My steel phantom QD is awesome. I use their flash hider on several guns. On my .308 5R the phantom is 100% repeatable after removing and reinstalling. I have a consistent 2 moa up shift every single time I screw the can on.
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