Gunsmithing Tikka T3 pillar bedding the stock

[aaronjhanson]

Hello guys! I am new to the sight. I have a tikka T3 in 300wm. I would like to pillar bed the action, keeping the original stock. i will also replace the recoil lug with a steel one. I guess my question is, is it worth doing it on the factory stock? this is my hunting rifle. the best groups I got with this thing with factory ammo was 1" groups at 100 yards. I would like to tighten up the groups.
I have everything to reload for the rifle, except the time.. will be making time soon.

 

[InTraining]

I asked a similar question and researched this subject several months ago, didn't find conclusive information. What I noticed with the Tikka Action is it has tabs/raised area where the action screws attach, a typical action bottom has a radius to it, the pillars follow this radius. Not sure how to mate (easily) the pillars to the action with this raised area. I was more concerned as my stock is an after market laminated wood stock and without loctite it kept loosening up. I figured pillars would keep it stable in the stock and lock it into position.

Your best bet, if convinced load work is the best it can be, is get a Manners stock made for the Tikka. I have one of those too and think it's great. Manners actually told me not to bed it, and so far it hasn't loosened up and shoots great.

My answer, no it's not worth bedding the original stock, don't think it can be done easily. Get a Manners. Track down one of my posts, someone sent a link for pillars for the Tikka, I just can't seem to see how they work, they look like any other pillar. Good luck.

 

[Cobracutter]

http://www.kineticresearchgroup.com/products/w3c.php

Do it.

 

[aaronjhanson]

thanks in training..
cobracutter, ya not what i want for a hunting rifle.

 

[6brshooter]

Stainless steel or aluminum pillars, cut to the length needed to reach from the action down to the bottom metal. Grind a few grooves on the outside of tubes. Enlarge original bolt holes in stock, rough up the wood and using bedding compound smeared into grooves. Attach pillars to action with counter sunk machine screws, make sure to use release agent on bottom of action. Push barreled action/pillars into the stock, use tape, surgical tubing to hold together. The bedding compound, if applied properly will turn the flattop pillar in to a perfectly radiused match to the action. Shoot it and see if it helped, if not then bed it. I find it is better to pillar and then bed action in 2 stages anyway.

 

[ddavis]

I wouldn't bother with it. I have an original Tikka in a factory stock and a full custom in an XLR chassis. They are equally accurate and the zero does not shift. I really like the factory plastic stock. It is light and rigid. Your problem lies with using factory loads. 1" groups with factory loads is pretty decent and more than good enough for a hunting rifle. If you want more accuracy out of it you need to handload.