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Which remington 700 should I buy?

LeadFarmer624

Private
Minuteman
Mar 6, 2013
3
0
Hi all, I'm new here. I'm looking to put a 700 in an accuracy international acsi 2.0 chassis. I was looking for the 20" AAC SD version in 308, they are around $720 but very hard to find. My local dicks has a 700 varmint with a 26" bull barrel on it. Ad it's only $450! Brand new. Is there anything different about the rifles aside from the barrel profile and length, and the threaded end on the AAC?

This is gonna be a prone sniper style long range gun. Probably gonna go night force for optics so every dollar I can save is good.

I really like the AAC because I can put a brake on it, but I could always have the other barrel cut and threaded later down the line if I want too. I'm in Illinois anyway so a suppressor is out of the question anyway.

If I buy the 26" bull barrel 308, will it work just fine in the acsi chassis?
 
The 26" is a 12 twist where the aac-sd 20" is a 10 twist. Neither are a bull barrel, they are sinduro contours. A threading job on the 26" will run around $75.

Hope this helps.
 
Jwp6114 hit the major differences, either would work in the AICS as the recievers are both 700 SA's.

And not to be a stickler, but AICS stands for Accuracy International Chassis System, so when you say "accuracy international acsi 2.0 chassis" you are really saying "Accuracy International Accuracy Chassis System International 2.0 Chassis."
 
I have a AAC 308 in 16.5" barrel and I am very happy with. Out of the box it is very accurate with 168smk. It's proved to be a 1/2-3/4 moa gun. That is stock! Didn't think a factory gun could perform like that. I loose a lot of distance with the shorter barrel but it sure is nice to carry. Also have a 18.5" 308 700 built by scout supply company in a AICS. The stock is heavy but very nice. Thumbhole is different and I find myself leaving my thumb on the outside as it is more comfortable. For the money the AAC model 700 is hard to beat. The folks at remington paid a little more attention when assembling this one. Stock lacks majorly and will be first thing to change.
 
Do you already have the AICS? Is all the work already done on the Rem? Do you have one or the other already? Doesn't really make sense to me to buy a $750 rifle, send it off for $800+ worth of work to be reasonably accurate and then put it in a $1000 stock/chassis system.
 
Do you already have the AICS? Is all the work already done on the Rem? Do you have one or the other already? Doesn't really make sense to me to buy a $750 rifle, send it off for $800+ worth of work to be reasonably accurate and then put it in a $1000 stock/chassis system.

I actually ordered the AAC-SD yesterday. What $800 worth of work will I have to send it out for? I thought it will drop right into the aics with no bedding or modification required.
 
Congratulations on your purchase, great rifle. I was not trying to offend you. My reference was to the action and not the chassis. Should drop in with no problems, I don't have one but I have done some investigation. You may find that once you are bitten by this bug we have, you will find yourself sending that action off to a smith to have it trued, lapped, chambered, barrel, and everything else that can possibly be done to it to squeeze out that very last bit of repeatable accuracy.
 
Congratulations on your purchase, great rifle. I was not trying to offend you. My reference was to the action and not the chassis. Should drop in with no problems, I don't have one but I have done some investigation. You may find that once you are bitten by this bug we have, you will find yourself sending that action off to a smith to have it trued, lapped, chambered, barrel, and everything else that can possibly be done to it to squeeze out that very last bit of repeatable accuracy.

This is true, thoes factory guns have WAY long throats keeping velocity lower than posible by making the jump to the lands and grooves long, also the threads where the barrel attach could be trued to make them more straight than factory (mass produced), most peeps want a biger bolt knob ect... these jobs add up. not to mention when you shoot enough and beside other more ballisticaly superior calibers you will want to look at a 260 or 284, that is if you do much shooting past 700 yards as your 20" pipe will fall off on accuracy that far out.

but good luck with the adventure thats what its all about, just a few things i have learned over time. read, research, ask intelegent questions and you will go far fast.
 
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I bought a AAC-SD lightly used a while back and really like it for a factory rifle. I put mine in a B&C stock and it will shoot 1/2MOA without being bedded and the factory trigger. When I get the stock back from being inletted for a DBM, I am going to take it back to the range for another try with a Timney and a JP brake on it. You made a good choice IMO, yes the 5R will shoot a little better as will a few other models but they are also $400 more than the AAC.
 
We have the New Remington 700 Cerakote 5r in 24 & 26 inch.. And as someone said above the 5r is my vote also. I have the 700 AAC edition, I like it, and I have shot it out to 800 yards accurately. The 5r barrel is 1:11.25 and the extra few inches will help if you are capable of doing handloads (my two cents). The finish is really nice on these cerakoted guns though compared to the finish on the AAC. Some AAC editions are coming from the factory with good threads, others not so much. So... if it was going to be my only long range shooters, I would get 5r over the AAC even though the 1:10 is nice, and have it threaded and trued down the road. That being said, i am dropping my aac into a chassis this summer :). Let me know if I can help you get a chassis when the time comes LeadFarmer.
 
Having a "great piece of glass", is nice. I have 3 Night force scopes. But, on my other rifles, I tried the Nikon Monarchs. They are also nice, at 1/3 the price, and "shoot", just fine.Just a thought, Josh.
 
Considering the title of this thread, I figured this would be a good place to ask my questions. Like the OP, I too am new to posting here but have been reading on this site for about a year. Thanks all for your excellent advice!

1) Is it worth the premium to purchase one of the stainless steel models? Does SS make a difference on accuracy or longevity of the life?
2) Why is the 5R roughly $400 more than the SPS SS models? It seems to me that the only difference is the stock and maybe a better barrel. Does Remington do anything else to the 5R to make it worth the extra cost?
 
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" factory guns have WAY long throats keeping velocity lower than posible by making the jump to the lands and grooves long "

I thought the longer throat would increse velocity. Longer throat, more powder at same peak pressure. Correct?

Difficult to load the bullet to the lands for a factory Remington chamber, since the bullet will fall out of the case.
As a result, you end up jumping the bullet, which reduces velocity.
At those lengths the rounds need to be single loaded as well, as they are too long to fit in a box or internal magazine.

Joe