I would like to try this sharpening method but I don't want to spend a lot of money just in case I can't do it. I need something better than the Harbor Freight. I would like to keep the price under 300.00 if possible. What are my options?
Sidearms & Scatterguns Belt Sander Sharpener
- Thread starter Nosler243Shooter
- Start date
I'm considering this same thing right now, however I've settled on the Harbor Freight version.
If I were to spend more money (<$300), it would be on this one;
http://www.kalamazooind.com/products/belt-sanders/1sm-belt-sander/
If I were to spend more money (<$300), it would be on this one;
http://www.kalamazooind.com/products/belt-sanders/1sm-belt-sander/
I have a Delta 1x30, I don't know if they make it anymore because I bought it at the hardware store marked down because it was discontinued. I have tried all the grits. I stick to 330 and a surgi-sharp leather belt. Leather belts are $35 bucks on Amazon. I think all together I have around $125 in everything plus supplies. I use the white rough on the leather. Hardware store keeps it so I just use that. I have had the same stick for 4 years now and only used a 1/4 inch of it. After you are done with the leather belt always remember to remove it or it will stretch out. It's easy to do. Just don't stay in one spot to long and don't round the point off.
The delta unit will get you where you want to be, however it runs at a much higher speed than i would like. You can overheat blades if you arnt careful. What ever you get make sure you keep a bucket of water near by. If the blade is warm to the touch it needs to be dunked. Econ abrasives offer leather and micron belts. You will spend most of your time with 300 grit belts. Finish your work on a hand held strop.
Chip
Chip
Thanks for the help. I ordered the Kalamazoo 1x42 sander like the one above. I ordered some of the 180, 320, 500 and 1200 grit Aluminum grinding belts from Lee Valley. I also got some leather belts and some green compound. Hopefully I have made good choices with my selection.
You'll do fine with that. It's a hell of a machine. When grinding start with the knife edge away from you (Going into the belt). Don't get to caught up in going through the progression of belts. If you are touching up a knife edge use the 320. If you are roughing out a new blade shape you'll want lower grits. Generally I do heavy touch-ups at 320. For the monthly edge touch-up on a sharp knife you can use your leather belt (Blade facing away from the belt travel of course). Pick up a few 16 Micron belts. When the edge needs a little more than the leather belt hit it on the Micron belt, then back to the leather. Do Not put a lot of pressure on the blade while grinding or touching up or you will a. heat the blade up, and b. reduce the angle of the edge. You want to use just enough pressure to keep the blade on the belt no more no less. Grind with your thumb on the blade. This will allow you to gauge the heat. As I stated above, a homemade strop using old belts will take care of most of your blade maintenance. When you are doing a complete re-profile of the blade make sure to use a new belt. Save the older used belts for your routine sharpening. Start out at low RPM and slowly build up to a manageable speed. Finally, go to the local Good Will and pick up some cheap knives to practice on.
I'm no expert, but you are welcome to call me if necessary.
Chip
I'm no expert, but you are welcome to call me if necessary.
Chip
I highly recommend this product. I'm not affiliated with them in any way.
http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSK.../dp/B003IT5F14
Literally the best $70 I've ever spent. Super easy to use, fast, cheap. It's a mini belt sander. If you really want to get your knives scary sharp, pick up a leather strop and some green compound to finish it off.
video of how to use it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e5SWISuDLc&t=6m25s
Skip to 6:15 to see how it's used, and skip to 9 minutes for the post sharpening testing.
http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSK.../dp/B003IT5F14
Literally the best $70 I've ever spent. Super easy to use, fast, cheap. It's a mini belt sander. If you really want to get your knives scary sharp, pick up a leather strop and some green compound to finish it off.
video of how to use it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e5SWISuDLc&t=6m25s
Skip to 6:15 to see how it's used, and skip to 9 minutes for the post sharpening testing.
I believe that unit is 1800 ft/min? That is a good place to be.
I will run my Bader B3 at ~3000ft IF i have a fresh and or coarse belt and move quickly.
The 180-500grit will serve you fine. I don't think you will see much advantage to using the 1200grit, especially if you finish with the leather and green rouge.
500 grit followed by the leather (or a buffer if you feel lucky) should provide a mirror polish.
If (when) you discolor (burn) the edge, you will want to grind past it with a fresh belt and remind yourself to be more cautious.
The blade can be too hot to touch by hand and still be fine, but not every material will have the same tempering range.
ATS-34/154CM will handle higher temp without damage than S30V, O1, etc
I can get a blade shaving sharp just using belts but I prefer to start the edge with a belt in the 120-180 grit range, then I use a Gatco medium diamond, followed by ceramic followed by a pass or two on a loose buff.
Very time consuming but visually flawless and hair popping sharp everytime.
Best of luck with your endeavor. It can be very addictive! (I say this as I am preparing to sharpen 10 newly finished knives for a show in two weeks...)
I will run my Bader B3 at ~3000ft IF i have a fresh and or coarse belt and move quickly.
The 180-500grit will serve you fine. I don't think you will see much advantage to using the 1200grit, especially if you finish with the leather and green rouge.
500 grit followed by the leather (or a buffer if you feel lucky) should provide a mirror polish.
If (when) you discolor (burn) the edge, you will want to grind past it with a fresh belt and remind yourself to be more cautious.
The blade can be too hot to touch by hand and still be fine, but not every material will have the same tempering range.
ATS-34/154CM will handle higher temp without damage than S30V, O1, etc
I can get a blade shaving sharp just using belts but I prefer to start the edge with a belt in the 120-180 grit range, then I use a Gatco medium diamond, followed by ceramic followed by a pass or two on a loose buff.
Very time consuming but visually flawless and hair popping sharp everytime.
Best of luck with your endeavor. It can be very addictive! (I say this as I am preparing to sharpen 10 newly finished knives for a show in two weeks...)
Similar threads
