• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • Site updates coming next Wednesday at 8am CT!

    The site will be down for routine maintenance on Wednesday 6/5 starting at 8am CT. If you have any questions, please PM alexj-12!

Gunsmithing Has anyone ever bedded a Boyds Rimfire Hunter stock before?

JelloStorm

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 23, 2010
1,404
1
42
Northeast Pennsylvania
I got my Boyds Rimfire Hunter for my 17HMR and there does not to be a lot of stock supporting the barreled action.

I plan to bed where the receiver and "lugs" on the 93r17 make contact on the stock and also bed in the bottom metal so I can put some inch lbs on the action screws.

HOPEFULLY it doesn't crack...
 
Not the hunter stock, but the tacticool for my Mark II. These pictures show how I pillar bedded it:

2011-07-09_13-09-39_984.jpg


2011-07-09_17-42-35_634.jpg


2011-07-09_13-10-03_372.jpg


2011-07-09_17-42-47_496.jpg


2011-07-09_17-42-54_784.jpg


2011-07-09_18-44-42_187.jpg


2011-07-12_00-14-16_626-1.jpg
 
Looks good. Im working on doing this for my rimfire hunter now.

Sent from my SPH-M830 using Tapatalk 2
 
Looks good. Im working on doing this for my rimfire hunter now.

I don't know I'd say it looks "good", but it is functional. In my opinion, pillars were required on this rifle because the bottom metal is sheet metal with no strength and tightening the action screws more than 10 inch pounds would result in the bottom metal bending all over the place. If you replace the metal with a DIP, you can now apply enough torque to the screws that you ultimately pull the action down hard enough into the stock it will "splay" it out and probably split it.

Pillars = good
 
Problem is, I dont have a lathe or a way to measure and cut the proper length pillars or else I would install them.

Plus you'd have to dam-up the interior of the stock to even install a pillar. Let me see if I can get some pictures of it.
 
JelloStorm said:
Problem is, I dont have a lathe or a way to measure and cut the proper length pillars or else I would install them.

My pillars were made from 1/2" All-thread with a hacksaw, a drill, a pair of calipers, and a file.

JelloStorm said:
Plus you'd have to dam-up the interior of the stock to even install a pillar. Let me see if I can get some pictures of it.

Look at my pictures again, and you'll see I used popsicle sticks to make dams, just like you're talking about.
 
I've been studying bedding and or pillar bedding my savage mark II. I haven't made the leap yet but for pillar bedding I've found two basic methods.

one is to replace the 12-32 screws that savage used and remove the "lugs" that are threaded into the receiver. This will allow the use of longer pillars but the bolts must be replaced with 1/4-28 action screws (like are used on Winchester and Remington rifles) This article http://rvbprecision.com/shooting/savage-93r17tr-proper-bedding.html shows that method.

The other method was the one used by turbo54 above. The limitation of this is that pillars need to be shorter than most that are sold commercially. This post http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=11&t=366638 reports that the pillar lengths used were .397 and .412. These lengths will need to be custom made.

The process has been described by a number of people already. It is doable if you are handy but Boyd's stocks are more difficult to do this process.

Here are a couple of other threads I have found that might be helpful

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223949&highlight=bedding

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

I'll post more after I do my own. I hope some of this helps
 
turbo54

For the Popsicle stick dams did you place a notch or kerf inside the recess before you placed the dam or are they friction fit to hold them in place while the epoxy dries?
 
Does anyone here have a mill and make their own pillars out of aluminum by any chance? I think the way this 93r17 is I cannot use .562" pillars due to the position of the one action screw hole in relation to the trigger assembly housing.

Or does anyone know where to get a slightly thinner like .490" aluminum pillars?

Edit:

Here's a picture of the receiver. You can see on the left, the receiver is rounded so I can use a R700 pillar, but the rear of the rifle is flat and is very close to the trigger assembly.

Circled them in MS Paint to show exact locations. Sorry for shitty pic. Cell phone sucks.

stock_zps99e438ac.jpg
 
Last edited:
There was a recommendation to use Mauser 98 pillars from brownells on another thread( smaller OD.) I'll try to find the link and post it after awhile.


Here are the sleeves that were mentioned. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...8-stock-ferrules-prod983.aspx?vid=558,558&l=y

These are stainless so cutting them shorter could be difficult (Dremel... it cuts) but they are smaller OD (.375)

The other possibility is to use a drill press (and file?) if you lack a lathe to turn the aluminum sleeves to a smaller diameter.


Sent from my SPH-M830 using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:
It really wasn't a big deal to make pillars from a chunk of all-thread.

I used a hacksaw to chop it off ~.020" long, drilled it through, then dressed the ends square while filing to final length. I used calipers to measure the overall length in several places radially around the circumference to evaluate squareness, and filed as needed.
 
There was a recommendation to use Mauser 98 pillars from brownells on another thread( smaller OD.) I'll try to find the link and post it after awhile.


Here are the sleeves that were mentioned. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...8-stock-ferrules-prod983.aspx?vid=558,558&l=y

These are stainless so cutting them shorter could be difficult (Dremel... it cuts) but they are smaller OD (.375)

The other possibility is to use a drill press (and file?) if you lack a lathe to turn the aluminum sleeves to a smaller diameter.


Sent from my SPH-M830 using Tapatalk 2


Yeah a 3/8" would make a world of difference. Should I use an R700 curved .562" for the front? I definitely have the room for it and I filled in that area the front-most lug goes with wood filler.

Once that dries I have more material to drill into to insert the pillar.

Speaking of. I had to punch out that roll-pin to remove the front "pillar" support thing. Is there any reason to have this inserted then as it does not appear to be holding the barrel but I dont know if it aids in keeping the barrel tight.
 
Jellostorm

I dont know abot the roll pin. I would guess if savage installed it, then it isnt extra. I think the barrel is pinned in place. The op in the thread i linked cut the roll pin into two parts (one on each side of the front action screw)

I would use roll pin.

The other question about the r700 pillar I dont think it matters. If you have the space go ahead. The advantage of the skinny pillar is that you have more wood (or epoxy) around it. Or it fits in a tighter spot.

Sent from my SPH-M830 using Tapatalk 2