I've got one of these rifles being accurized by Scott Null (savagegunsmithing.com) and would like to work up some loads while I'm waiting. Can anyone suggest a good 1000 yd "plinking" load for this particular rifle if possible? Any suggested loads would be greatly appreciated and used with caution. I'll be using Nosler brass but haven't selected any bullets or powder yet. Thanks.
- Thread starter cantgrowup
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Are you having a match barrel put on it while you are having it "accurized". That is about the only thing you can do to noticeably shrink groups on that rifle. The twist is a little fast on that barrel and it really needs to be about 28-30"long to make the most of that round, IMO.
Get your hands on some retumbo if you can find it anywhere and some 300smk bullets. I forget what i was running(110BA), but 91-91.5 grains sounds about right if memory serves.
If you're not getting it rebarreled, hopefully the Smith at least rechecks the headspace on it. Savage seems to set it a bit tight on rifles chambered in 338lm. I had to punch brass out from the muzzle on at least a few occasions before i sold it.
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Get your hands on some retumbo if you can find it anywhere and some 300smk bullets. I forget what i was running(110BA), but 91-91.5 grains sounds about right if memory serves.
If you're not getting it rebarreled, hopefully the Smith at least rechecks the headspace on it. Savage seems to set it a bit tight on rifles chambered in 338lm. I had to punch brass out from the muzzle on at least a few occasions before i sold it.
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Oops! Sorry guys.... I'm new top the forum (first post) and didn't notice that right below this Reloading section is an entire other section on Reloading with actual loads. But since I already started the thread, if anyone still wants to post a good starting load recommendation like "bodywerks" did above, feel free.
And to answer bodywerks, nope.. no match barrel. Just truing up bolt face and lug interfaces, installing larger recoil lug, and bedding the stock.
And to answer bodywerks, nope.. no match barrel. Just truing up bolt face and lug interfaces, installing larger recoil lug, and bedding the stock.
I agree with Bodywerks , you definatelly got to stick with 300 gr , Savage's barrel twist is 1 in 9 and stabilizes heavy bulletts better ( + for 1000 yrds you want a heavy bullet anyway)
I have a 110 BA and for me H 1000 and IMR 4350 work good , for that distance I'd choose H1000 ( GIVES BETTER SPEED ) IMR4350 is more accurate in shorter distances.
To me the bullets of choice are SIERRA ( very accurate) some people likes BERGER but when I tried on mine they were allover the place ( on my rifle that is)!
Just start on a minimum load and work your way up safely , when you start seeing your group shrinking then you'll know you are getting near the right powder charge!
Hope that helps a little , enjoy the good shooting man !
I have a 110 BA and for me H 1000 and IMR 4350 work good , for that distance I'd choose H1000 ( GIVES BETTER SPEED ) IMR4350 is more accurate in shorter distances.
To me the bullets of choice are SIERRA ( very accurate) some people likes BERGER but when I tried on mine they were allover the place ( on my rifle that is)!
Just start on a minimum load and work your way up safely , when you start seeing your group shrinking then you'll know you are getting near the right powder charge!
Hope that helps a little , enjoy the good shooting man !
Thanks cecchino76. Do you have suggested starter loads for those two powders?
What exactly is a "Plinking Load"? 1000yards,though not stretching the 338LM's capability is a distance that requires an accurate stick, a skilled shooter and quality ammo.
Have you actually fired this rifle? If not, how do you know that the "accurizing" work being performed has actually worked?
Although Savage barrels are quite good for factory barrels,fitting a quality barrel-ie. Bartlein,Brux etc.,chambering with a match reamer and setting correct headspace is the foundation to build an accurate rifle. Period.
Why Nosler brass? Lapua brass has,without a doubt,been the standard. Excess of 10 loads per case is the norm in my experience. I have fired over 6K rounds since 2006 or so through several 338LM platforms. Personally, I have had barrels chambered from 25 to 30 inches and found that the most important issue is a 1/9" twist if you are using a 300grain bullet.
A preferred load? Go through the reloading depot forum. Many of us have posted loads that work. I've recently said it in a post last week concerning "plinking"- you don't plink with a 338LM-hitting at 1000yards is NOT plinking. Welcome to the community.
Have you actually fired this rifle? If not, how do you know that the "accurizing" work being performed has actually worked?
Although Savage barrels are quite good for factory barrels,fitting a quality barrel-ie. Bartlein,Brux etc.,chambering with a match reamer and setting correct headspace is the foundation to build an accurate rifle. Period.
Why Nosler brass? Lapua brass has,without a doubt,been the standard. Excess of 10 loads per case is the norm in my experience. I have fired over 6K rounds since 2006 or so through several 338LM platforms. Personally, I have had barrels chambered from 25 to 30 inches and found that the most important issue is a 1/9" twist if you are using a 300grain bullet.
A preferred load? Go through the reloading depot forum. Many of us have posted loads that work. I've recently said it in a post last week concerning "plinking"- you don't plink with a 338LM-hitting at 1000yards is NOT plinking. Welcome to the community.
Agree with Arclight, no such thing as plinking at 1k. Enjoy!
Couldn't get Lapua brass at the time so I grabbed the Nosler. I plink at coke cans at 500 with my 308. I'll "try" to plink 5 gal paint cans at 1000 with 338. 1000 is farthest at my range. I've got way too many rifles to spend mega bucks on a 338 putting match barrels on. This is is just another toy to tinker with.
I have a Savage 110 FCP .338. Was a HS now it sits in a Manners T5 and the stock works great for me. Mine is completely factory minus the new stock (Bedded as well) and aftermarket brake. The gun likes 300 grain SMK's (< 0.50 MOA) and will not shoot a 300 grain Berger below 0.75 MOA, most loads >1.00 MOA. All this testing has been done at 200 and 300 yards as I am still tinkinering with the load and have a 200 yard zero. Also, I use only Lapua brass and H-1000. Right now I am tinkering some with the seating depths +/- 0.005" and +/-0.02 grains of H-1000 to see if I can get tighter groups but have yet to shoot these loads. The gun has thus far liked 91.8 grains of H-1000, but I worked it up to that figure so if I was you I'd start with 90.0 and go up to no more than 92.0. Around 92.0 I started getting a sticky bolt with H-1000. As far as seating depth goes I can't recall off hand and the gauge I made to measure O-give to back of brass would be a useless number to you anyways since it is a custom gauge I made reamed out to 0.338". Also, I am using Fed Gold Primers. I have noticed using the SMK's I get a little variance in weights so make sure you weigh your bullets if this is not your normal practice. I have had them vary from 299.7-300.4 grains. The most variance I had with the Berger was 299.9-300.1 grains.
Thanks. Very helpful. I'll measure max COL with the 300 gr MK.
Was there a problem with the HS P stock that made you switch to the Manners T5?
Was there a problem with the HS P stock that made you switch to the Manners T5?
I have the same HS stock on my savage. Its lacking a bit in ergonomic feel. I don't like the palm swell. I can see why one would prefer manners or McMillan. That said, integrate a cheek piece and adjustable butt and it will feel much better:
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The HS stock was nice but as bodywerks stated I was not completely comfortable with the palm swell. I like the manners t5's thumbhole way better. It is way more ergonomic and for my needs it suits me better. I saw on the classifieds a guy had a Mcmillan A5 for a savage long action and I would have liked to bought that one to try out but for now I think the T5 will work perfectly for my needs.
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Can't grow up the above is what I shot yesterday at 200 yards. Like I said I was tinkering with powder and this was with 92.0 grains. Also, after measuring my gauge and the loaded round it looks like I am 0.022" of the lands with the above group. I am now going to try 0.017", 0.022" (again), and 0.027" off the lands to see if the ragged hole can get tighter. Just for a scale I print my own targets with a 0.25" x 0.25" grid on Excel. Also, I seem to be able to shoot better when I have one larger (Around 3-4" Shape) then a smaller shape (1-1.75") inside the larger one that is an easily differentiated color. This way I can pick up the larger shape then on my reticle I can aim smaller with the smaller shape and pick it out. For me it has developed tighter groups then one larger shape. I have made targets that are yard specific. For example they are specifically for 300, 400 or 500 yards and the boxes that are a light gray are to 0.2 mil scale since that is what my Vortex Viper PST is. This way I can make quick adjustments at the bench and not guess how far I am off.
Shot the above round again on Sunday and I got decent results. I had 3 rounds not quite touching but under 0.50 MOA @ 200 yards. I think the main reason they werent touching was because of the bench that I was shooting on and the wind in a buddies field. The bench was moving due to the wind just slightly enough it was hard to keep the gun as steady as I would've liked but all 3 rounds were within an 1" of one another and could almost be completely covered with a quarter. The range where I shot the above target was a range with heavy duty steel benches cemeted into the ground with a concrete slab. I will try this load again this weekend at the other range and see if I can touch holes again at 200.
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