Upgrade a Savage 10 FCP .338 LM

[bluto77]

I bought a Savage 10 FCP .338 LM for reasons unknown. I sure didn't need another rifle. Nonetheless, I have another rifle. I've done a few searches on the hide to find out what aftermarket upgrades people are doing to them, but I'm not finding a lot of information. What all can I do to this rifle to upgrade and improve it's accuracy? I like the trigger. The action is far from "smooth". I don't particularly care for the stock, and was thinking about getting a Manners composite stock with the thumbhole. They're on sale shipped right now at stocky stocks. Any input would be appreciated.

I guess I should add: Savage 10 FCP .338 LM owners, please chime in with upgrades you've made.

 

[Blacktical]

As a new owner of a 111 LRH in 338 I'm curious as well.

I've searched pretty extensively and only found a few threads saying they tossed the HS Precision stock for a Manners.

That being sad, is my 111 compatible with a 110's stock? What specs do I look for on my rifle to match the stocks available to make sure it will work?

Oh, and aftermarket muzzle brake too. Seems there's two camps, one that loves the stock brake and one that thinks its crap.

 

[bodywerks]

Replace the barrel with a longer one. This will also mean you get a new chamber. I speak from personal experience (110ba) the chamber is tight which results in heavy bolt lift. The 26"barrel is a little short and robbing you of the 338lm's velocity potential. Go for a 29-32"barrel.
Change out the trigger for a SSS comp trigger. More crisp, lighter pull, and no jamming the sear against the accurelease if you happen to cycle the bolt too fast.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluto77]

And if you replace the barrel, then you might as well true the action while you're at it right? And when you true the action and get a new barrel, there are other costs associate with it that start to bring it into the same realm of just buying a Stiller action and new barrel right? Then change out the trigger, stock, and, and you might as well have started from scratch with an action and not with the Savage.... OR hopefully I'm missing something and you can still trick out the Savage and keep/use some of the parts.

 

[peaceatwar]

Also check out savageforums website. Lots of guys have done mods on their there. You can't go wrong with a manners stock.

 

[bodywerks]

And if you replace the barrel, then you might as well true the action while you're at it right? And when you true the action and get a new barrel, there are other costs associate with it that start to bring it into the same realm of just buying a Stiller action and new barrel right? Then change out the trigger, stock, and, and you might as well have started from scratch with an action and not with the Savage.... OR hopefully I'm missing something and you can still trick out the Savage and keep/use some of the parts.

Savage actions don't need truing like Remingtons. The floating bolt head takes care of most of that.
All you really need to do on a savage action is polish a few key areas, install a bolt lift kit, and maybe Lapp the lugs. These things take only a few hours and $10 in parts. So to answer your question, no, you don't have to pay $$$ on truing or a new action.
Savage barrels can be changed by the end user relatively easily, and you're gonna be changing that barrel sooner than later when you're running 338lm. My personal experience with my 110ba was it was not a tack driver by a long shot (1.5-2 MOA@100yds), and i attribute that to the unusually tight chamber and a barrel twist that is among the fastest in use for the 338lm bullets typically used. Go ahead and shoot it out first. Is only going to take 600 rounds or so...
If you like the stock the savage came with, keep it. Its a good stock. Bedding it might be of some benefit.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluto77]

What does the bolt lift kit and lapping the lugs do? And if it doesn't have to be trued (not sure I understand that), then adding a new barrel would be a big improvement that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. You say the twist rate is too fast. What rate/barrel would you recommend that is better suited to the cartridge? I used to have the 110 BA and I sold it because I determined I wasn't far enough in my long range shooting experience to even need it, and it wasn't a tack driver either. But it's my understanding that the .338 LM is going to perform better at 300 plus yards as the bullet starts to "stabalize". I've seen this debated though, and I'm not knowledgable enough to have an opinion. It seems like it would make sense though. So you'd have to measure it's accuracy at that distance.

 

[Kid maker]

I have the 110 FCP Hs precision .338 lapua, nothing but issues so far. FTF due to firing pin out of adjustment and weak spring (upgraded to max 22 lbs) fixed the issue. Horrible grouping at 100, 200, 300 yards. I know my ability and its topped with an ATACR which neither is the issue. I've ran 250 gr and 300 gr, doesn't seem to matter. Best advice is to sell it and spend a little more on another brand. Otherwise, good luck on finding aftermarket parts, even mags are hard to come by, at least the last time I checked.

 

[anthonylapoint]

Check your headspace and buy a 20 MOA scope base and put some loctite on your scope base screws and shoot. That rifle is a shooter right from the get go with these two key areas being the only two areas of issue. If you gives those areas attention you'll being shooting a mile no problem

 

[Kid maker]

It's got a 20 moa base, the first thing I did was loctite the base. It was loose when i bought it. Headspace was checked by two different smiths, both said it was a go. 3 moa is the best I get. Maybe the op will have better luck.

 

[bodywerks]

What does the bolt lift kit and lapping the lugs do? And if it doesn't have to be trued (not sure I understand that), then adding a new barrel would be a big improvement that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. You say the twist rate is too fast. What rate/barrel would you recommend that is better suited to the cartridge? I used to have the 110 BA and I sold it because I determined I wasn't far enough in my long range shooting experience to even need it, and it wasn't a tack driver either. But it's my understanding that the .338 LM is going to perform better at 300 plus yards as the bullet starts to "stabalize". I've seen this debated though, and I'm not knowledgable enough to have an opinion. It seems like it would make sense though. So you'd have to measure it's accuracy at that distance.

Lapping the lugs and the bolt lift kit just helps to ease bolt lift by making a polished lug abatement in the receiver (that's what lapping does) and the bolt lift reduces a metal/metal contact area in the cocking piece down to a ball bearing or thrust bearing. With a little grease added it greatly reduces friction.
You don't need to true savages due to their floating bolt head. There are other things you can pay a gunsmith to do, like timing it, which has to do with timing extraction so that you don't have things fighting each other when you cycle the bolt. It probably had the potential to dramatically diocese bolt lift effort, but it won't improve accuracy, and pretty much takes an experienced gunsmith to do it. Fred at sharp shooter supply is the know all, be all but his service sucks and gee takes forever. Kevin at stockade also knows his savages, but i don't know if he dies all the same things Fred does. Good need is he's easier to get ahold of and had reasonable turn times.if you want to improve your savage beyond adding parts, i strongly suggest giving him a jingle.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluto77]

I have the 110 FCP Hs precision .338 lapua, nothing but issues so far. FTF due to firing pin out of adjustment and weak spring (upgraded to max 22 lbs) fixed the issue. Horrible grouping at 100, 200, 300 yards........Best advice is to sell it and spend a little more on another brand. Otherwise, good luck on finding aftermarket parts, even mags are hard to come by, at least the last time I checked.

This has been my concern, as I already knew this when I bought the rifle. Originally, I only bought it as a toy to play with temporarily while I wait for my 300 WSM build to be completed. I had about 100 factory rounds and another 200 bullets that could be loaded from the last time I owned a .338. I was going to sell those, but then caught a wild hair and decided I would shoot that ammo up and then sell the rifle. I had no plan to add any aftermarket parts.......and then the Sniper's Hide started to wear off on me. I've been perusing through the firearms for sale board and looking at all of the picture threads, and there have been some pretty bad-ass .338's coming through. So I started thinking that maybe I'd just get a different stock, because Stocky Stocks just happens to be having a sale on the same Manners composite stock that I will have on my 300 WSM, which lead me to think it would be a good idea to get one of those so....you know, so I could start practicing and get familiar with it. Of course, if I'm going to get a stock, then I might as well upgrade the trigger right? And what good is a nice trigger and fancy stock if the barrel sucks right? And if you're replacing the barrel, then you might as well look at the action right? And here we go!!!

Maybe I'll just sit on it for a few days and think about it. I may very well just sell the thing. If I'm going to get a rifle that is dedicated to long range, then I'd rather do it right and build it from the ground up. That includes choosing a cartridge based on research and feedback from other users, as opposed to getting one on a whim because I happen to have ammo on hand. I've actually been looking at the 6.5 x 47 Lapua for long range. Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[Kid maker]

I've been so frustrated with it I bought a remington 700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD .308 just to stay up on shooting past 800 yards. If I was over a 100 posts it would be in the for sale section. Maybe the longer it sits the better it will shoot, and ammo will grow on the lapua tree.

 

[Blacktical]

Can anyone tell me if the stocks on stocky stocks site under the savage 110 will fit the 111? Mine shoots great and I've had no problems with mine so far. Guess there's lemons for every manufacturer.

 

[bluto77]

I'm not sure, but Stocky's has a customer service chat link that can answer the question about the 111. And to be clear, I haven't had any problems with my rifle, or the stock. The main reason I wanted to replace the stock was so I could use the same one I'd be using in the near future on a new build. Plus, I just like the way it looked better.

 

[anthonylapoint]

What ammo have you tried? Seems the savage .338's like the 300 grain bullets. Also, the barrels take a while to break in. If you were to sell that 3 MOA rifle, what do you want for it? Just curious.......

 

[Kid maker]

I started with 285 gr hornady, went to 250 gr HSM off a recommendation, then 300 gr HSM. Last try was s+b 250 gr. Can't get any H1000 or Retumbo so reloads are out of the question as of now, and it would technically void the warranty. 87 rounds down the tube and it isn't getting any better. Not sure what I'd let it go for.

 

[Biggerhammer50]

I have a 110 FCP and had the typical savage sticky bolt problem until I took it to the smith. He re-barreled and re-chambered it to 338 LM Improved got rid of the barrel nut, bed the action and reworked the accu-trigger. Now it finally shoots 1/2 moa or better if I do my part.

"ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ"

 

[tmanners]

Can anyone tell me if the stocks on stocky stocks site under the savage 110 will fit the 111? Mine shoots great and I've had no problems with mine so far. Guess there's lemons for every manufacturer.

I saw this post and thought I would chime in. The 338 model 111 is very close to the 110 inlet but you will need to remove a little material in the front of the bottom metal inlet and also the mag area to get the mag to fit. Another issue that I would like to point out is that the recoil lug on the factory 111 is only about .275" long and 1" wide. Also if you take your barreled action out of the stock and attach the bottom metal to it, you will see that the gap between the lug and the corner of the bottom metal in only about .100". My point is, that there is not much stock left behind the lug. On these stocks, you must bed the lug area and make sure that the action is set up correct. On savage 111 orders that we take in house, we always recommend that you send in your barreled action and bottom metal for fitting. If you have us install the pillars plus a few bucks more, we will bed the lug and pillar areas, plus remove material from the inside front of the factory bottom metal and install it with bedding. We actually offer this on all savage inlets, they are fine guns, but for some reason Savage likes to change there specs often. Thank you very much,

 

[anthonylapoint]

I started with 285 gr hornady, went to 250 gr HSM off a recommendation, then 300 gr HSM. Last try was s+b 250 gr. Can't get any H1000 or Retumbo so reloads are out of the question as of now, and it would technically void the warranty. 87 rounds down the tube and it isn't getting any better. Not sure what I'd let it go for.

For what ever reason, these rifles seem to only like hand loads with h1000 and retumbo with 300 grain pills. Why? Not sure but i have two friends im helping do work ups for since they dont reload with ba and fcp that are traveling down the same path. Decent shooting rifles, better once we get the loads worked out.

Let me know if you get tired of it and wish to rid yourself of it.

 

[jbjh]

I saw this post and thought I would chime in. The 338 model 111 is very close to the 110 inlet but you will need to remove a little material in the front of the bottom metal inlet and also the mag area to get the mag to fit. Another issue that I would like to point out is that the recoil lug on the factory 111 is only about .275" long and 1" wide. Also if you take your barreled action out of the stock and attach the bottom metal to it, you will see that the gap between the lug and the corner of the bottom metal in only about .100". My point is, that there is not much stock left behind the lug. On these stocks, you must bed the lug area and make sure that the action is set up correct. On savage 111 orders that we take in house, we always recommend that you send in your barreled action and bottom metal for fitting. If you have us install the pillars plus a few bucks more, we will bed the lug and pillar areas, plus remove material from the inside front of the factory bottom metal and install it with bedding. We actually offer this on all savage inlets, they are fine guns, but for some reason Savage likes to change there specs often. Thank you very much,

Tom,

Is this advice specifically for the 338,or do you advocate sending you the barreled action if you are making the stock?

 

[bodywerks]

He recommends sending your 111 barreled actions, any chambering, due to the minor differences from the 110

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[jbjh]

He recommends sending your 111 barreled actions, any chambering, due to the minor differences from the 110

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Yes, but I was asking him a broader question in follow up regarding all Savage guns.

 

[robp5t]

I have a 110 FCP and had the typical savage sticky bolt problem until I took it to the smith. He re-barreled and re-chambered it to 338 LM Improved got rid of the barrel nut, bed the action and reworked the accu-trigger. Now it finally shoots 1/2 moa or better if I do my part.

"ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ"

I did the same thing. Changed to an Obermeyer Barrel, no barrel nut and bedded action with APA Fat Bastard brake. Its a hamer for sure loves the 300 smk and Scenars.

 

[bodywerks]

I did the same thing. Changed to an Obermeyer Barrel, no barrel nut and bedded action with APA Fat Bastard brake. Its a hamer for sure loves the 300 smk and Scenars.

How do you like the fat bastard for your 338lm? And how much does your rifle weigh? I'm debating between the FB and going overboard with something like a pain killer.
I guess an even better question would be, how is recoil reduction of the FB compared to the savage factory brake? Since i used to own a 110ba...

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluto77]

Pretty cool to have Tom Manners weigh in on a thread I started! Thanks for the input.

Based on everything I've read, combined with numerous things I've heard, I have decided that I'm going to sell my 110 FCP. It just seems like you have to put too much into to get the rifle decent. By the time you add a Manners stock, take it to a smith and get either a new barrel or the existing one reworked, change the brake get the action rechambered or worked on at least, get the trigger tuned, you might as well spend a little more and get a custom (or a used custom at least...) rifle. You're already basically doing so. The rifle is basically the action, barrel, trigger, and stock right, so if you're changing all of that just to "fix" something, you can get something else different that doesn't need to be "fixed".

 

[robp5t]

How do you like the fat bastard for your 338lm? And how much does your rifle weigh? I'm debating between the FB and going overboard with something like a pain killer.
I guess an even better question would be, how is recoil reduction of the FB compared to the savage factory brake? Since i used to own a 110ba...

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

The Fat Bastard is awesome. I used to get through about 20 rounds with the old setup and I was done. I have done some all day shoots with it and feel great at the end of the day. I actualy almost sold it until I found out about the APA brake. I have not weighed it,but will guess its about 15lbs.

 

[bodywerks]

Done deal. I have a little Jimmy on my 260 and really like the looks of it and quality was superb.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[tonytoshiba]

I started with 285 gr hornady, went to 250 gr HSM off a recommendation, then 300 gr HSM. Last try was s+b 250 gr. Can't get any H1000 or Retumbo so reloads are out of the question as of now, and it would technically void the warranty. 87 rounds down the tube and it isn't getting any better. Not sure what I'd let it go for.

I was getting 10" groups at a quarter mile. I hadn't been shooting for a couple decades so I figured my skill was shot. I began to reload and within 150 rounds I was making quarter (25 cent piece) groups at a quarter mile. Open desert shots, hill backing, 3 to 8 mph wind, 110℉. I found that the factory loads were less than adequate. Used H1000 and 7828, I don't recall exact loads but all long guns are particular.

 

[Steel head]

 

[tonytoshiba]

View attachment 7097607

Yes, it most definitely was. It opened up a whole new universe in a time and land many many, whoops, wrong story.
Yes, it was worth it. It opened up the field of reloading and all of the intricacies and massive amounts of variables involved. I learned that it was one more very important aspect beside and inclusive of the correct firearm and shooting skill. I did not believe prior that factory rounds were as loose as they are.

 

[Lunchbox27]

On this day in 2013: "48 people are killed by armed bandits in Zamfara State, Nigeria "

 

[garandman]

View attachment 7097607

?????????????????????????????????????????????

 

[garandman]

Anyway....

I had a Savage 10FP .308 back in the day. In a compsite stock, like this:

Decent entry level rifle. Grouped pretty good. This was before I was handloading.

It wasn't as nice as my Rem 700PSS in .308, so I sold it.


Far as upgrading.... guess it depends on what you want. Keeping it entry level / total budget under $2k, find some good glass, make sure the bedding is solid / barrel is free floated, maybe upgrade the barrel, etc. and bang away.

It will do a decent job. If you anticipate a budget over $2k, I'd start with a better platform - action / chassis.

 

[spife7980]

?????????????????????????????????????????????

Its a 6 year old post a newbie dug up from the grave.

 

[Steel head]

Its a 6 year old post a newbie dug up from the grave.

And then he quoted someone who hasn’t been here in almost 5 years.

 

[Gun.Nut]

I had nothing but problems with mine. I traded it for a Barrett MRAD. I do know a few people that swear by them.