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Ruger 10/22 accuracy

M

Mike407

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 18, 2012
241
22
Orlando, Florida
Gentlemen,

I'm interested in a 22lr for a target shooter and I plan to shoot it suppressed using a 5.56 can on a flash hider. I want to get a repeater or semi-auto and am looking at the Ruger 10/22. My question is... What accuracy could I expect with a 10/22 after some mininal mods like a trigger kit upgrade? I know they have a Target model with real heavy barrel and maybe that would be the way to go, but if I'm not going to be able to get it real accurate then I'll look at a different option.

Thanks
 
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Have heard good things about the cz 455 and savage mk2 as well. Are they in a different class when it comes to accuracy? Any advice is appreciated.
 
I recently put a Green Mountain Stainless .920 inch diameter match barrel, Volquartsen match trigger group, custom stock and bolt buffer onto my old 10/22 that used to shoot about 1.5 MOA with regular grade 40 grain lead bullets.

Now it shoots sub 0.5 MOA. Totally awesome nail driver, my friend has one setup a little bit better than mine and from a bench rest @ 25 yards all ten rounds in same hole.

10%2022%20Side.jpg


10%2022%20Front.jpg


You could get the threaded barrel model for a can. Barrel and trigger group replacement takes ten minutes.

I only have a low end Redfield Redfield Revolution 3-9X-40mm scope, with a real target scope yours would drill nails.
 
On a 10/22 platform my experience would say you should get an aftermarket heavy barrel that's 16" and threaded--kinda like SkyPup said. A std. length barrel with a flash hider and 556 can is going to be a tad awkward to say the least. I'm running a threaded 16" heavy barrel on a 10/22 with a trigger kit, Hogue overmold stock and an older Archangel thread on can. .5 MOA for 10 shots at 50 yards from a bull's bag and a 14X scope using wolf target. Bottom line, you'll need an aftermarket barrel and trigger kit to get to where you want to go. Also you'll have to figure out which ammo it likes, but hey, that'll be true for all of em'.
 
That's a very nice rig you've got! I'm definitely in for the barrel swap, trigger and stock change out. Does this require truing up or any other smith work or is it just plug and play simple? I'm very glad to hear .5 MOA is possible with the 10/22!
 
Don't know about the M40 style stock but the barrel swap, trigger group swap, bolt buffer swamp, and stock swap is a fifteen minute job with an allen wrench and screwdriver and 1/16th punch.

I purchased everything I wanted here, was all in stock and I had it in three days:

Ruger 10/22 Accessories - Barrels, Stocks, Magazines, Triggers

Here is a jazzed up photo of it, super light weight even with the 20" bull barrel:

10%2022%20Side%20Enhanced.jpg
 
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Keep a couple things in mind with the 5.56 can.
1) rimfire specific cans usually are small diameter to go along with the rimfire barrels, and lower rimfire pressures. If you use a full sized centerfire rifle caliber suppressor, it will be much bigger and may block the iron sights. That won't matter of couse with most scope setups.
2) most centerfire suppressors are self contained and not designed to take apart for cleaning. Rimfire ammo is very 'dirty' compared to the residue left in a can from a centerfire. Therefore many rimfire cans are designed to be taken apart and cleaned every few hundred to couple thousand rounds.
 
The thing about a 10/22 is that it is a good platform to end up spending a lot of money on. Out of the box stock, I've not seen on shoot well yet. Neat toy, but you've got to invest some time and money.
 
There are a million modifications you can do to a 10/22 in your garage. Personally I replaced the barrel with a Tactical Solutions 16", the stock with a Bell & Carlson Target/Varmint, and the trigger group with a Hornet Custom drop in trigger group. With bulk ammo I can get usually 1 moa at 50yds and 1-2 moa at 100yds. With SK Standard Plus/Wolf MT, I can average about .5-.75 moa at 50yds and around 1 moa at 100yds.

As for suppressing it, I don't know what suppressor you're wanting to use, but I'd wager it isn't cheap. I personally will have a reputable gunsmith thread my 10/22 barrel as opposed to getting a pre-threaded barrel from Green Mountain, Tactical Solutions, etc. It will cost me significantly more, but I won't have to worry about a baffle strike on a pricey can. That's a decision I've made as I'd hate to have to send my can in for repair work and just don't trust factory threaded barrels.

My mods were based on already having an old junk 10/22 sitting in my closet. If I were to do it all over again, I would buy a full Kidd or Volquartsen build. They'll be more accurate, hold their value better, and have a better fit/finish. After I get my AWC Ultra II out of ATF jail I'll look at a Kidd and then a Black Ops Ravage. Oh how much fun it is to have a good job and be single!
 
Vtseal, that's good to know on the can. I didn't realize that cleaning the can would be an issue. I bought a sure fire socom can for my .223 and I plan on using it for a .22 as well, but I certainly don't want to mess the thing up and not be able to use it at all!
 
Early, I do have a stock 10/22 that I could use for the build, but I really planned an starting with a new one and keeping my other as is. Maybe just buying the full build would be the way to go for this. Will I have any concern with the barrel threading if I go with something like a Kidd build? Ill def need the barrel threaded 1/2x28 to work with the flash hider, which I need for the quick detach can.
 
One more question...
Is the can going to get dirty faster with a semi then it would if I used it on a bolt action .22?
 
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I have a 10/22 in a tacticool stock, with a 16.5" GM barrel. I polished, and adjusted the trigger. I also installed an over travel set screw in the trigger guard. I have a 16X SWFA SS mounted on top. My favorite targets are dumdums, first the candy then the stick, and push pins. I can make solid hits all day at 50yds. I have hit tootsie pops at 200. I generally run CCI SV and Wolf Match.

Chip
 
By the way, if I were to do it all over again (and I will be soon), I would go with the CZ. I built the 10/22 because I already had one.
 
The_Count said:
I have a 10/22 in a tacticool stock, with a 16.5" GM barrel. I polished, and adjusted the trigger. I also installed an over travel set screw in the trigger guard. I have a 16X SWFA SS mounted on top. My favorite targets are dumdums, first the candy then the stick, and push pins. I can make solid hits all day at 50yds. I have hit tootsie pops at 200. I generally run CCI SV and Wolf Match.

Chip
Click to expand...

I'd say that's accurate! Very nice
 
I personally would have no problem trusting the threading done by Kidd or Volquartsen for flash hiders/direct screw on cans. There are some definite advantages to going full-build. Another thing that bothers me is barrel droop with the traditional 10/22 v-block attachment of a 10/22. Kidd and Volquartsen both use threaded receivers/barrels which will help in this regard. Kidd Supergrade receivers also feature a rear tang which allows for the action to be anchored in two places and the barrel to be free floated for the entire length. I am unsure of how Volquartsen actions are set up.

It should be noted though that there are ways to free float a standard Ruger 10/22 barrel. Also some people bed the barrel and float the receiver. There are a bunch of DIY projects of this on RimfireCentral.com that are very helpful.

As for dirtying up your can, the only way a semi-auto will cause more fouling faster is if you fire more rounds through it!
 
I do want an accurate rifle. I'm willing to pay for it (up to about $1200) too. I really have little knowledge of the target rimfire options out there. The only .22 I've owned is my 10/22. I've seen my buddy's 40x and its awesome, but I dont want a single shot. If I need to look at something else to get 1/2 MOA accuracy than thats what I'll do. I was just asking if the 10/22 would get me there. As for the can, you think I need to go rimfire specific rather than using my .223 can?
 
You need a user-serviceable can for 22LR.

Otherwise, the lead buildup will never get fully cleaned using chemicals alone. Cleaning properly with chemicals is all Kinds of hazardous, inefficient, painstaking, and must be disposed of correctly. If a random chunk of buildup decided to break free during a shooting session it could cause a range of problems...

For sound: semi-autos are louder than a bolt gun, especially suppressed. It's that miniscule amount of gas/sound escaping when the bolt cycles itself... At the action end, the semi-autos are dirtier. At the muzzle end, in a can, they're both very dirty.

For accuracy: that will depend on the gun and ammo combo.

Good luck!
 
Snake Eyes,

I'm seeing that is the way to go for the can. I'll get one specifically for .22lr that I can clean. I do want it to be stupid quite, so maybe the bolt action is the way to go. Now I've got to research the options for an accurate bolt action 22! Thanks for the info!
 
I am sure many have said it already, but this rifle can be as accurate as you want as long as your willing to spend some money to do it. I have the standard wood stock model, and when I first got it my shots were all over. I used various types of ammo but was never able to get a decent group. I used a socket that was the next diameter up from my barrel with some sand paper and free floated the barrel. This made a pretty noticeable improvement. I imagine that it can be even better if I put a decent scope on as well. Right now I have a $40 Simmons on it.

good luck
 
ive got a savage mkII and a 10/22 with a kidd barrel

the 10/22 is way more fun and feels way better to shoot
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but as others have said... don't expect much from the factory Ruger barrel... the chambers are horrible. That's definitely the rifle's weak link... that, and the 9-10# trigger pull.

I accurized mine, with the goal of making it as accurate as possible on as little coin as I could. The only aftermarket piece is the barrel; Shooter's Ridge (read: cheap) 16" bull profile. I think I paid $80 for it. I needed to hog out the factory stock for that fat barrel of course. I worked the trigger group myself, there's a number of good 'how to' articles/tutorials out there (rimfirecentral.com, IIRC). With some careful work, I got the trigger pull down to 2lb.10oz using no aftermarket parts at all. Oh, and I bedded the action.

Reliably under 1moa with the right ammunition, I'm really happy with it. It makes for a great training rifle, as all the same principles apply.
 
Thanks for the education guys. I do like the idea of the 10/22 and if It can perform this well it may just do the trick after all.

Is the general consensus to put it together or start with a full build from Kidd or similar?
 
SkyPup said:
Due to numerous PM inquires as to a bull barrel picitanny rail mount with three rails on my Ruger 10-22, here where you can get the LaserLyte shotgun mount, I put a thin ring of rubber strap around the barrel prior to mounting it, it fits good and tight and works excellent:

418vtNeQKXL._SX385_.jpg



Amazon.com: New Laserlyte Shotgun Tri Rail Mount Mag Tub Fits Any 1" Shotgun Tube Or Exte...: Sports & Outdoors
Click to expand...

Are you getting a POi shift with this attachment? I would think as you add weight to the barrel it would change POI and may even degrade accuracy. Is this not the case with your set up?
 
None that I can detect using Federal Target .22 long rifle, however I am not a benchrest shooter, I am a hunter and 0.5 MOA is plenty good for me.
 
I zeroed in the 850nm IR laser last night using my scope mounted PVS-14 @ 25 yards, it is rock steady.

I have two Burris XTR scope rings with picitanny rail mounts on them that I am going to mount the long range IR Illuminator and Red LED flashlight off the top of the scope rings, but the laser mount needs to be as close to bore sight as possible to keep it on target at night without too much deviation.
 
I've never seen a 0.5 moa 22lr at hundred yards. I have seen plenty of 0.5 moa groups at hundred yards. I am sure the rifles are capable, but the limiting factor is the ammo. Even the best rifles (Anschutz and customs) with the best ammo are not 0.5 moa rifles and I have seen some really good shooters with really high end equipment and none can hold 0.5 moa or much less moa for a whole competition. Just my opinion. I am sure this will start a war. I am not trying to, I've just seen my fair share of .22 comps.

Eddie
 
tansinator said:
I've never seen a 0.5 moa 22lr at hundred yards. I have seen plenty of 0.5 moa groups at hundred yards. I am sure the rifles are capable, but the limiting factor is the ammo. Even the best rifles (Anschutz and customs) with the best ammo are not 0.5 moa rifles and I have seen some really good shooters with really high end equipment and none can hold 0.5 moa or much less moa for a whole competition. Just my opinion. I am sure this will start a war. I am not trying to, I've just seen my fair share of .22 comps.


Eddie
Click to expand...

I assumed the .5 MOA claim was for 50 yards. This should be expected accuracy for a target .22, correct?
 
I would say one half inch at 50 yards is acceptable. That is not 0.5 moa, that is more like 1 moa. That is how I understand it anyway.

Eddie
 
556 cans have longer threads than 22 cans. 0.6 vs. 0.4. might cause alignment issues but will definitely gunk up your threads. hours will be spent cursing as you clean the gunk out of them so you can shoot your 556 with can

as for the 10/22. spend as little as possible on the gun. all you want is the action. drop a barrel and trigger in it ASAP. i run a GM. most will tell you a kidd is the way to go. i have zero complaints with my GM, shoots wolf MT to one big hole at 50. you may need to get a SS or Ti V-block if the barrel fit isnt tight enough in the receiver. barrel droop is bad. trigger can be worked over by filing and polishing the hammer and sear. try this first as its pretty much free. if you make it unsafe, buy a KIDD or VQ trigger kit. also, beware of the safety if you strip the trigger group. without the tool it is a BITCH to get back in. look into a bolt buffer as well. metal to metal as buffer seems kinda dumb. once that is out of the way its all about functionality. some folks cant get theirs to cycle subs. new recoil spring and or guide rod. some cant get reliable extraction, new extractor.
 
Skypup see you using the IR on the 10/22 . Unique on that barrel mount also for the Light/laser & the pvs14 @ nighttime on the smaller varmints .

I prefabbed a simple Pic. Rail to the side of large knob, Weaver strap Rings for mounting the IR on my Suppressed 10/22 .
10/22 does have it's useful points & I use it once in a while for some night hunting .

IMG_0001-5_zps91702bdf.jpg

.
 
softcock, nice rail on your 10/22. I am installing some Burris XTR scope rings with their picitanny rail on the top of each ring to hold the IR LED Illuminator, but will keep the IR laser down on the barrel to keep it close to the bore.

We have allot of armadillos here and they are a problem, so I will be using this on them much to my advantage.

I do try to give them a sporting chance though, up to now I've been using my Baby Browning to take them out, sometime I get 5-6 in a night:

Armadude%20Browning%2025.jpg


They can run but they sure cannot hide from the FLIR Thermal!!! The combination of NV and Thermal is bad news on the 'dillos.....
 
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I am building a 10/22 for practice. it's gonna have an ER shaw fluted barrel. Hogue stock. Already has a Volquertson hammer upgrade. aftermarket buffer. A bunch of little tacticool stuff. Should be fun.
 
Early Cuyler said:
There are a million modifications you can do to a 10/22 in your garage. Personally I replaced the barrel with a Tactical Solutions 16", the stock with a Bell & Carlson Target/Varmint, and the trigger group with a Hornet Custom drop in trigger group. With bulk ammo I can get usually 1 moa at 50yds and 1-2 moa at 100yds. With SK Standard Plus/Wolf MT, I can average about .5-.75 moa at 50yds and around 1 moa at 100yds.

As for suppressing it, I don't know what suppressor you're wanting to use, but I'd wager it isn't cheap. I personally will have a reputable gunsmith thread my 10/22 barrel as opposed to getting a pre-threaded barrel from Green Mountain, Tactical Solutions, etc. It will cost me significantly more, but I won't have to worry about a baffle strike on a pricey can. That's a decision I've made as I'd hate to have to send my can in for repair work and just don't trust factory threaded barrels.

My mods were based on already having an old junk 10/22 sitting in my closet. If I were to do it all over again, I would buy a full Kidd or Volquartsen build. They'll be more accurate, hold their value better, and have a better fit/finish. After I get my AWC Ultra II out of ATF jail I'll look at a Kidd and then a Black Ops Ravage. Oh how much fun it is to have a good job and be single!
Click to expand...
The Silencer CO .22 Suppressor cane be had for 400 buck or less 600 if you cant the Gov bribe. It has been proven to be right there with the best of 22 suppressors and has a small profile. I'm saving for it right now as I type this. If fact I have become a bit of a Silencerco fan boy what with the Osprey and new Saker coming out.
 
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