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FrogLube in the bore?

Outlaw45

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 12, 2007
595
24
45
Iowa, USA
For us that don't clean our rifle barrels untill accurancy falls off, how do you feel about FrogLube in the bore. FrogLube claims is penetrates into the metal and resists copper, carbon, and fouling from being imbedded into the barrel. I believe that a clean barrel needs some rounds through it and to have some of the copper jacket imbedded into the barrel to smooth out some inconsistencies. This prevents a clean, cold bore shot difference.

I don't clean my barrel after a range shooting, just a couple bore snakes through. Would having FrogLube in the bore change my way of shooting?
 
I dont lube a bore UNLESS its being stored for a extened period to prevent corrosion

In my expirence lube in the bore just dicks with things untill is consumed.

If your going for extended cleaning you may want to look into Moly, but it has its challenges too..........

The goal as I see it, is to maintain a nominal level of carbon and copper fouling consistantly. Keeping a predictable and consistant bore condition allows for consistant and predictable results.
 
FrogLube claims is penetrates into the metal and resists copper, carbon, and fouling from being imbedded into the barrel.
So what purpose does it serve? Are you now trying to stop 'imbedding' for some reason, whatever that means and whatever it is supposed to be?

Would having FrogLube in the bore change my way of shooting?
Only of you changed your way of shooting.

How do you feel about running KY Jelly in the bore? KY claims that it penetrates metal and resists the bullets chafing in the bore. Would having KY in the bore change my way of shooting?
 
personally i have tried to the following to try to see a difference in fouling and bullet speed(i have read this somewhere but can't find it again): After last fired shoot of the day with a hot barrel i clean and then soak with frog lube my bore when still hot...let's the lube penetrate the metal until barrel is cold and then wipe the bore DRY.
From my test i can tell my bore become easier to clean with every shooting session and cleaning i do(carbon only nothing to do with the copper). But i don't fire more than 100-200 round between cleaning.
For speed i haven't see real difference.
 
I've been using FireClean in the bore of one of my guns since it was new, the Fireclean went in it before a bullet went down the tube. Cleans up extremely easy, just run a patch down the bore and the carbon comes off, do that a few times until the patch isn't black then reapply FireClean and done, 5 minutes ,if that, from start to finish. No issues noted with accuracy/performance. I've found FL to be a pain in the ass to use but used it until I discovered FireClean, now all my weapons get FireClean on them.It's a Cleaner, lubricant and a protector and doesn't stain your clothes, etc

Oh yeah, its Green/Bio safe
 
I'm still trying to visualize the whole 'pores' of the metal concept. Lube doesn't penetrate metal. It's not face cream.
 
actually yes it ''penetrate'' into the surface irregularity. Those surface irregularity expand with the heat, and it's during this time you applies the lubricant. After cool down the irregularity will shrink back and retain inside them some lubricant.And yes steel has ridges, voids, and all kinds of things, down to the steel's Iron/carbon/ different alloys in different states.
 
I'm still trying to visualize the whole 'pores' of the metal concept. Lube doesn't penetrate metal. It's not face cream.

Dude get with it,

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Pores or not to me is not important.

Here is a dose of reality, take a .308 win running at standard pressure of say 55,000 to 60,000 PSI. You expect that burning a solid propellant in a closed environment at those pressures and temps that ANY lube is going to survive much past a few shots? Factor in pushing a very tight fitting copper coated slug that is forced through each shot.

Why is this point important? If these lubes are doing what everyone claims they do then your muzzle velocity will change as they are consumed. How do you factor in this change of velocity or know at what rate it will occur.

I have found that when you lube up a bore and send a round through it your POI will change for at least 3 shots. Challenge my premise. Next time you’re at the range shooting dial into a plate at say 500 yards. Run a patch of your wonder goo down the bore, and let a few go, you might be surprised. Factory barrels in particular tend to respond very negative to this.
 
You expect that burning a solid propellant in a closed environment at those pressures and temps that ANY lube is going to survive much past a few shots? Factor in pushing a very tight fitting copper coated slug that is forced through each shot.

Kind of like a piston in a cylinder, yeah no lubricating substance could survive that.:rolleyes:


I think the "pores" analogy is an overly simple way of explaining things. Another simple way of looking at it, it could also be compared to your old cast iron skillet and the process of "seasoning" it.


I have found that when you lube up a bore and send a round through it your POI will change for at least 3 shots. Challenge my premise. Next time you’re at the range shooting dial into a plate at say 500 yards. Run a patch of your wonder goo down the bore, and let a few go, you might be surprised. Factory barrels in particular tend to respond very negative to this.

I don't think anyone in this thread has suggested you lube up the bore and then immediately fire the weapon. I use FireClean in my barrels, in one weapon before rounds even went down it, and I have not seen any POI shift from my first shot to the last that would give any indication that its use in the barrel affects the POI. Now, keep in mind, with FireClean, you don't have to drown the weapon in it like some do with CLP or other gun products. I have seen guys run soaking wet patches of old school CLP down a barrel right before firing it and yes, you can see and smell that some of it is being expelled from the weapon, but again, I don't think anyone here is suggesting that anyone do that.
 
I'm still trying to visualize the whole 'pores' of the metal concept. Lube doesn't penetrate metal. It's not face cream.

The sad thing is I have heard the owners of one of the more popular lube companies talking about "penetrating the pores"
 
i have been using frog lube on my pistols and ARs for a while now and love it. the other day while out hunting, i got caught in the rain. even after i wiped it down with some light lube i got rust. so i busted it out the frog lube and went to it. for the barrel i took a good blow dryer to it. when is was good and hot i ran a patch with the frog lube on it. let it sit for a day. and boom. no rust. i went and shot it. rifle was dead on. from the first shot to the last. i am a firm believer in it now. and, have many friends that have started to use it too.
 
Unless your using Cast Iron or Damascus steel in you weapons I don't believe you have any pores in the steel of your weapons. Like Graham said "Lube doesn't penetrate metal" Different lubes stick to different metals better than others in different environments and conditions, but they do not penetrate solid steel. And to compare a bullet going down a barrel to a piston and cylinder in an engine is silly, not the same thing at all. But if you put liquid in a barrel and fire a round down it you will make pores, cracks, dints.. or worse. Liquids do not compress! Metal will succumb to a liquid when under extreme pressures be it oil or water. Slight amounts of a liquid lube can just do slight amounts of damage.

Just my two cents on this one
 
I hear that you can eat FrogLube. But just because one can doesn't mean that one should, and I wouldn't advise others to do it.
 
Unless your using Cast Iron or Damascus steel in you weapons I don't believe you have any pores in the steel of your weapons. Like Graham said "Lube doesn't penetrate metal" Different lubes stick to different metals better than others in different environments and conditions, but they do not penetrate solid steel. And to compare a bullet going down a barrel to a piston and cylinder in an engine is silly, not the same thing at all. But if you put liquid in a barrel and fire a round down it you will make pores, cracks, dints.. or worse. Liquids do not compress! Metal will succumb to a liquid when under extreme pressures be it oil or water. Slight amounts of a liquid lube can just do slight amounts of damage.

Just my two cents on this one

Water is only liquid that does not compress. Oils and other fluids will compress. Even hydrolic fluid compresses. And even forged or cast steel has pores. I build engines as a hobby. I have heated timing chain gears to take of crankshafts or press back on and have had oil come out of the steel when heated with a torch. Billet metals would be the only thing I would think of that might not have any pores
 
I have nothing substantial to contribute, but i will say this, I don't really care for the smell of frog lube. Especially after you start shooting. Smelling mint or whatever the heck it is, just doesn't make me feel like I'm about to shoot a gun. The stuff works well though. As far as "penetrating" goes, tommy tacticool that worked at the store I first got frog lube from, said he takes his gun apart, applies the frog lube, and then puts the gun (his 1911) in the oven to heat up the metal so the frog lube will penetrate.... I'm no gun expert, but I can't imagine that's legitimate advice. The other guys behind the counter just rolled their eyes.
 
We're not poring it in the barrel and leaving it are we? I put it on a patch and ran it through. Then dry patched it. I don't think that little bit will hurt, will it?

As far as action parts, how does everyone like it? I put it on my S&W Shield and when it dries, it's dry. I feel weird not putting a visible drop of oil on the slide rails.
 
I have been using it on my 22 pistol makes cleaning much easier. I used it on the bore and it cleaned up quicker I think. I have also been using it on my over and under barrels. Barrels stay much cleaner after 100 rounds or so with the frog lube.
 
As far as "penetrating" goes, tommy tacticool that worked at the store I first got frog lube from, said he takes his gun apart, applies the frog lube, and then puts the gun (his 1911) in the oven to heat up the metal so the frog lube will penetrate..

Believe it or not, thats what the makers of Froglube recommend in the little info booklet that comes with it for the first application of Froglube. I think it's also on their website FAQ.

FireClean doesn't require you to heat up your metal parts before applying it or re applying it. Having used both products my preference is as follows.

1. Fireclean
2. Froglube

Fireclean does everything Froglube does but it does it better and you also use less product. a little bit of FireClean goes a long way.