So I just pulled my CZ out of the stock to find that I did not use NEAR enough epoxy to bed with! There are quite a few spots where there was not enough but a few where it did a pretty nice job, I am going to redo it because it looks terrible! My question is, when I redo it do I need to dremel out the spots that actually worked out ok? Or will they be ok as long as I don't get any new epoxy on them? Thanks guys!
Gunsmithing Quick "rebedding" question?
- Thread starter BenY 2013
- Start date
Minor touch up, I wouldn't bother..
But since you say there are "quite a few spots"- or voids, I'd start over. Grind it out...doesn't take long with a Dremel.
It's common to underestimate- especially if you're trying to be "neat".
Me, I tape up the stock completely- and the barreled action above the centerline, coat it all with release agent and GLOM the epoxy in there. Forget about "neat"- it's easy to clean up, just wait until it starts to just set up and the excess will peel away like putty.
But since you say there are "quite a few spots"- or voids, I'd start over. Grind it out...doesn't take long with a Dremel.
It's common to underestimate- especially if you're trying to be "neat".
Me, I tape up the stock completely- and the barreled action above the centerline, coat it all with release agent and GLOM the epoxy in there. Forget about "neat"- it's easy to clean up, just wait until it starts to just set up and the excess will peel away like putty.
Pictures? It may shoot great the way it is. I understand that you want to take pride in the finished product though and it's it'll come out better the second time around. Until you are familiar with how much epoxy to mix, make extra and let it ooze out, then clean up.
Best to dremel the epoxy out and start anew.
Best to dremel the epoxy out and start anew.
Ok this is what I thought, I will dremel away a bit to allow for the new epoxy. Thanks guys! I would take pictures but I don't want you guys to laugh at me lol, it looks pretty rough, I used all of the epoxy I had and it was NOT enough. I am picking up more today and gonna fix it all up tomorrow!
I do very much appreciate the input of some of the rifle builders here, you guys are my inspiration! I would absolutely love to do what you guys do one day!
I do very much appreciate the input of some of the rifle builders here, you guys are my inspiration! I would absolutely love to do what you guys do one day!
You don't NEED to dremel it ALL out. Definitely carve up the trouble spots make sure you scuff/sandpaper all surfaces and load it up again. Rule of thumb on the amount you need is to make sure you use enough to have epoxy oozing from every point of contact and do a good clean up job. Acetone on .50 cal patches and Q-tips works great. I've used rubbing alcohol when acetone was in short supply.
What type of epoxy are you using?
What type of epoxy are you using?
I am using JB Weld as my epoxy, I know it isn't the greatest for this, but its all that I have locally at the moment!
For your next bed job, order some Marine Tex or Devcon....
Like said above, you won't need to remove all of the bedding.....Just rough up what you currently have with the dremel and some rough grit sand paper - this will give the new epoxy something to "grab" onto when you bed.
Like said above, you won't need to remove all of the bedding.....Just rough up what you currently have with the dremel and some rough grit sand paper - this will give the new epoxy something to "grab" onto when you bed.
JB Weld is fine...the viscosity sucks, though as it's runny and doesn't hold long on vertical surfaces.
Marine Tex has better viscosity- but I've used it extensively in boat building projects and I find it far more temperamental to mix ratio than most other epoxies. I usally stay away from it for that reason.
I recently started using West System (again, experience from boat projects), mixed with metal powders (steel, aluminum) and high-density filler. The advantage here is that you can mix in the fillers in types and amounts to obtain the exact consistency you want- rather than what comes out of the tube.
As long as they don't flex or shrink, they'll all work.
Marine Tex has better viscosity- but I've used it extensively in boat building projects and I find it far more temperamental to mix ratio than most other epoxies. I usally stay away from it for that reason.
I recently started using West System (again, experience from boat projects), mixed with metal powders (steel, aluminum) and high-density filler. The advantage here is that you can mix in the fillers in types and amounts to obtain the exact consistency you want- rather than what comes out of the tube.
As long as they don't flex or shrink, they'll all work.
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If you have big voids on a surface...drill down thru to clear areas so that the new epoxy will have a pressure release vent. Otherwise you'll be inducing strains when the new stuff tries to get around close fitting flats. I'd remove a 1/32 or so of surface so that you can seat the action without stress. JMHO
