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Rifle Scopes Scope Mounting (SPUHR) advice needed! (S&B 3-20x50)

Diabolus

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 10, 2006
109
12
Southern California/Los Angeles
I finally did it, saved up money and purchased my S&B 3-20x50 and a SPUHR mount for my .308 bolt gun!

I'm very eager, and have spent the last few days reading up on scope mounting. I know it's a rather simple process, but I wanted to get some last minute advice before I mount everything later this evening. I'll post some pics below so everyone is on the same page.

I'll use my FAT wrench to torque down the ring screws to 15-25 in/lbs, and the side clamp screws to 45 in/lb.

I have some questions though:

Where should the scope mount be mounted on the picatinny rail on the rifle? Should I mount it at centerline, or more towards the rear?
Should I center the windage turrent to the centerline of the SPUHR mount?
SPUHR recomends 15-25 in/lbs for the ring screws - for an S&B scope, is there a specific in/lbs I should use?
Am I missing anything else?



Here is what I have:





 
FWIW, I always center the optic in the mount and then place the mount for optimal eye relief. If it needs minor tweaking that the pic rail is too coarse for (rare), I'll move the scope in the mount.


db
 
I would do what db suggests. Also there was a thread recently about a scope coming loose in a Spuhr mount despite being torqued properly. However, the owner didn't use rosin as per the Spuhr manual. So that may be something else to keep in mind.
 
grab a torch, and shine it down the scope objective first (backwards) behind the scope, (where your eye sits). use a piece of paper starting at the butt, and move it closer towards the ocular end of the scope. as your move the paper closer the paper that will have a blury dot on it, will become smaller and smaller untill it makes a perfect tiny little sharp looking dot. using tape, place some along the comb of the rifle and mark this point on the stock where the paper lies, as this is exactly where your eye should be in relation to the scope.

closing your eyes, shoulder the rifle and open etc. mark the spot on the tape and repeat a few times. when you are comfortable in terms of a consistent cheek weld, mark that spot with a line on the tape on your stock. no you can move your scope forwards or backwards untill the line on your stock where your eye is, matches the line where the paper is behind the scope.

i know it may be hard to understand, so read it again. but this is a great way to mount the scope using a torch and matching the smallest dot on paper and where your eye sits.

goodluck
Loc
 
Last edited:
15-25 in/lbs is dependent on scopemanufacturers recomendation.
S&B recomends Max 15.
Personally I always use more.

I always mount My scope on recoiling Rifles in rosin regardless if what rings used.

Where you mount the scope is up to you and your needs, as stated above you gotta find out where it's best for you.

Important is to torque Criss-Cross pattern and torque each screw more than once on every screw.
Like on a carwheel it might be a good idea to aftertighten after first shootingsession.
 
I followed every ones advice and the scope is now mounted. Unfortunately, I could not use the shim that comes with the SPUHR mount, but that wasn't a problem. I took my bubble level and ended up using that to square up the scope to the rail, seems to have worked out great.

I did not use rosin because some others have suggested it is not required for a .308. If I have any issues, I'll be sure to order some and re-mount it.
 
I followed every ones advice and the scope is now mounted. Unfortunately, I could not use the shim that comes with the SPUHR mount, but that wasn't a problem. I took my bubble level and ended up using that to square up the scope to the rail, seems to have worked out great.

I did not use rosin because some others have suggested it is not required for a .308. If I have any issues, I'll be sure to order some and re-mount it.

Got any pics?