• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

Suppressors Finally got my first stamps. SBR and 30BA. Woohoo!

RotARy15

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 17, 2011
369
0
35
Dallas, Texas
Pics are a little dark best I could do with my phone.

I ran to a friends house and attached the muzzle brakes. I'm a little annoyed that the brake on the bolt gun is a little off time but it's too late to correct that. Doubt it is enough to cause problems.

The brake adds to the SBR's short and stubby theme which is cool.

I looked through the bores to make sure the can was aligned correctly and the bolt gun looks good. The SBR is hard to tell because the suppressor is actually longer than the barrel so the bore looks rather obscured although equally so, which I'm just going to have to assume is good.

Been wondering about anti-seize though. I was warned by a couple of people that the can could potentially spin off on a semi-auto gun and to check it fairly often. I also noticed that the can came with some copper based anti-seize on the threads. In all the fitting and checking, the anti-seize wore off and I'm curious as to whether I should use the can with anti-seize or not? Does it help removal of the can or will it cause the can to spin off on my AR? Any input would be appreciated.

I'm also assuming that when mounting the suppressor, "hand tight" means almost as tight as possible by hand?
 

Attachments

  • SBR with 30BA.jpg
    SBR with 30BA.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 18
  • Savage with can and SBR.jpg
    Savage with can and SBR.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 21
  • SBR with 30BA brake closeup.jpg
    SBR with 30BA brake closeup.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
I just started using anti seize on my thread on cans. I plan on doing that with my 30BA as well. A little dab will do ya and that shit will make an awful mess in my experience. I recommend double zip-lock bags for the anti seize. FWIW, I also use a rag and clean the threads before and after threading anything on to the barrel.

I have never experienced a thread on can back off (and pray neither of us do) but I don't have enough experience with a semi auto to comment. I usually find myself checking the cans on my bolt guns quite a bit just to be sure. That and I like to torch my fingers :)
 
The AR is 300 BLK.

The fire rate on the SBR will be controlled. I haven't even ordered a second can yet so I decided to get a brake for the SBR just because it will be at least 7 months before I have a dedicated semi-auto can. I was told TBAC would be coming out with a 30cal can rated for more heat so I'm waiting to see what comes of that.
 
Congrats on the stamps, now the fun begins. I use a dab of anti seize on all my cans. My 30p-1 runs cooler on the sbr 300 blk running subs than the 308.
 
I was wondering on this type of setup also with an 8 inch barrel and a 30BA.

I know the TBAC guys post here on the hide, I wonder if they have an approximate amount/speed of shooting 300BLK that would be considered too much? Just looking for an esptimated range. Can I do a mag dump or two without getting to that 800 degree threshold that I've heard Zack talk about as a breaking point for the TI material.
 
I'm nowhere near an expert but for my use, I plan to just keep the can from getting to the point that it would immediately burn me on contact. The hotter it gets the faster it will wear from the blast. Right now, I don't have anywhere near the funding to fire that many rounds. Mostly just messing around with loads at the square range so I doubt I will run into overheating issues.
 
Last edited:
I'm nowhere near an expert but for my use, I plan to just keep the can from getting to the point that it would immediately burn me on contact. The hotter it gets the faster it will wear from the blast. Right now, I don't have anywhere near the funding to fire that many rounds. Mostly just messing around with loads at the square range so I doubt I will run into overheating issues.

Sure, I hear you. I'm just trying to figure out if I did a pair of mag dumps back to back, with subs or supers, if I would be in the danger zone temp wise. And if I would, I want to look at getting another can and leaving the TBAC on my 308.
 
Sure, I hear you. I'm just trying to figure out if I did a pair of mag dumps back to back, with subs or supers, if I would be in the danger zone temp wise. And if I would, I want to look at getting another can and leaving the TBAC on my 308.

If you run an 8 or 9" barreled upper like most do for the 300 blackout then you are going to see over pressure with a suppressor attached. The gas system is pistol length as they were designed for subsonic function at full auto. Basically kicking the legs out from under the subgun category. Taking a 30 cal bullet and having it fill a specific roll as a CQB type setup.

You could do a 4 or 5 mag dumps on a subsonic 300 BLK and not get much heat. They are a low pressure round. Supersonic ammo is another story.
 
We haven't had any reported until yours. I wonder if it's a throat issue. We've seen a couple rifles (not AR's) that had too tight of a neck/throat and the increased fouling would push them over the edge into high pressure as the clearances were reduced.

FWIW, I have a 10" Novekse .300 Fireball barrel with a pistol length gas system and it runs fine with supersonic loads with or without the can. That setup should have even longer gas port effective dwell time than the 8".

Do you see signs typical of premature extraction?