There's no way that can be right. The shit people come up with LOL
- Thread starter mebgardner
- Start date
There's no way that can be right. The shit people come up with LOL
Go finish your homework son and report back after it’s been checked
Hmmmm good to know. Thinking of buying a CF TBAC. Thx.
TBAC would have less issues if they had a torque spec called out that was greater than hand tight. They are relying on an adhesive that breaks down with heat and moisture, both of which are present inside silencers.
I think the issue is a muzzle device thats very sensitive to carbon locking.
That certainly doesn't help but when the muzzle device spins off by hand there's a good indication that adhesive alone isn't sufficient for retention to the barrel.
Is that something tbac wrote somewhere? Cant imagine anyone actually doing that. Im talking about hand tight with thread locker.
Here's their video. He uses a crescent wrench but states it doesn't need to be "that tight, that's what loctite is for".
Rocksett or red loctite. I rocksett my can adapters in. I certainly don't use a torque wrench on a proximal adapter. Thread locker, tighten until comfortable, voila.
I also thread lock muzzle devices. As stated already above, it sucks to peel one off inside a can. NEVER use crush washers on a muzzle device intended for suppressor use. Timing shims. Thread locker, torque to desired spec (can't imagine that's more than 30-60 ft-lb), done again.
Don't use Thread locker between the 2.
Buy quality gear, and the tolerance stacking where your concern is, is minimal. I'd bet there are more non-concentric barrels floating around, than MD's and adapters these days
I also thread lock muzzle devices. As stated already above, it sucks to peel one off inside a can. NEVER use crush washers on a muzzle device intended for suppressor use. Timing shims. Thread locker, torque to desired spec (can't imagine that's more than 30-60 ft-lb), done again.
Don't use Thread locker between the 2.
Buy quality gear, and the tolerance stacking where your concern is, is minimal. I'd bet there are more non-concentric barrels floating around, than MD's and adapters these days
That's a great video. He also speaks to another major point of this thread, over torque and the effect on accuracy (@ 4:40). Watching him work explains so much.
Thanks for posting this.
Let me be more blunt. It's bullshit and I dare you to prove it with actual measurements.
That posted video goes a long way to validating @msgriff statement. He called it "trumpeting" (@ 4:40).
I don't know how much torque was being applied to the muzzle device while he was using the crescent wrench. I'm guessing 20 ftlbs thereabouts as he finished his last go? Not alot anyway, thats my point.
He described the amount of loctite he used as "generous". His use describes his view of a "generous" amount.
Great video.
Note that elongation typically results in 'transverse compression', which is a reduction in diameter.
See, eg diagram below...
source, is circa 22 min>
You guys might find this article interesting.
That article says threading alone opens the bore.
Yep. And why I always thread my barrels a minimum of 5/8-24, or bigger, regardless of caliber.
That article said 5/8-24 threading alone opens up the bore.
Look at the diagrams above and see where the “tightening” or “trumpeting” is in relation to the muzzle.
You want the muzzle to be perfect on caliber with the preceding bore, or tighter. If it trumpets, the muzzle is looser, relatively. Not good.
But you do you
You want the muzzle to be perfect on caliber with the preceding bore, or tighter. If it trumpets, the muzzle is looser, relatively. Not good.
But you do you
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That's true, but some barrels 5/8" threads are the biggest I could do due to barrel size. I prefer 3/4" threads when possible.
IE "its not an actual opening, but a return to normal after the choke"?
If we all went slightly gain twist, all of this would be moot
Thanks. No crush washers, OK. Are you good with peel washers? I have and have used, timing shim sets. But I see peel washers being used in the video posted, and frankly it's first time I've see them being used. I've heard of them, I've handled systems that have them installed, and peel has been around for a very long time. I've just never seen an armorer use them is all. Everyone seems to recommend timing shims, so I'm just checking in here.
I've personally only used timing shims. Can't imagine they're much different. Take that for what you paid for it.
If the guys at TBAC run them, I would. But I'm not gonna throw away my shims just to switch. Can always make one in the lathe if I had to also
Not who you asked, but it mostly comes down to personal preference.
Like said in the video, peel washers come in 0.002" layers, which for 24 TPI is around 18 degrees or 3 minutes on a clock face of timing per layer.
With many shim sets, the thinnest shim is 0.003" or 0.004", but there are some kits (Precision Reflex) that go down to 0.002". If you're pulling from multiple PR shim kits, you can usually get down to within 0.001" difference in thickness in your final shim stack.
There's also Accu-Washers, which come in 20 degree increments. Not much difference over peel for final torque, but you start out at a thicker minimum shim (0.060"), so you may lose more than 1 complete rotation of MD thread engagement before it's timed. Not a function issue, more of an appearance thing.
Another thing to consider is the OD of your timing method choice, but once again, not a function issue. Same with the color of your timing method, some don't like to see stainless steel shims on their black barrel/MD.
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