I broke apart my 22 can about 4 months ago and cleaned it. Since then I have only put about 200 rounds through it but the end cap won't screw off now. I soaked in acetone overnight, nothing. I tried break free overnight, nothing, even liquid wrench. Will anything dissolve the carbon? I'm afraid to put the body in a vise even with padding. I also soaked my 308 can overnight and the solvent was still clean the next day. Very, very little sediment. Suggestions? Thanks
Suppressors Can't open can
- Thread starter XMC
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I've used a strap wrench. They sell them at Home Depot for like $10-$15. Other then that i've never used a chemical that helped.
one other suggestion is to use a torch LIGHTLY to heat up carbon and lead deposits. I used that to open one of my sealed cans
one other suggestion is to use a torch LIGHTLY to heat up carbon and lead deposits. I used that to open one of my sealed cans
Soak it for a couple of days in Kroil
I like KG1 for carbon.
Unfortunately, it's not going to touch the lead.
KG-1 Carbon Remover: Metal Protective Coating | Firearm Lubricants | Industrial Coatings
Unfortunately, it's not going to touch the lead.
KG-1 Carbon Remover: Metal Protective Coating | Firearm Lubricants | Industrial Coatings
.22. Not carbon fouling, perhaps lead fouling? 200rds. .22 doesn't see like that could create enough carbon buildup, IMO. That could be why your solvent looks clean. Wrong solvent. Vinegar will work, but it will turn the lead into lead acetate and that is skin soluble, so wear gloves. Rinse well. I've heard of ultrasonic cleaners, but not sure how well those work for this.
And would coca cola work? What would phosphoric acid at 2-3 pH do to lead? I'm no chemist, so if that sounds stupid forgive me.
Or, send it back to the maker. I agree, I probably wouldn't put a can in a vice unless I had some custom blocks cut to prevent damage to the can. And still I'd be careful. Yeah, a strap wrench is something everyone who farts with their own rifles should own. But not so sure it would help remove the cap on a .22 can.
And would coca cola work? What would phosphoric acid at 2-3 pH do to lead? I'm no chemist, so if that sounds stupid forgive me.
Or, send it back to the maker. I agree, I probably wouldn't put a can in a vice unless I had some custom blocks cut to prevent damage to the can. And still I'd be careful. Yeah, a strap wrench is something everyone who farts with their own rifles should own. But not so sure it would help remove the cap on a .22 can.
This
Soak in KROIL for a week, drain, try it. Still stuck, put a couple fast magazines through it to heat up and try again. If needed soak & repeat.. . . It'll come lose eventually. What can??
Ultrasonic cleaner with Dawn dish detergent. Bought my YH Mite stainless as a demo and couldn't get it open, ran it five or six times with the heat on, you could see the crud coming out of it as it ran. You can catch them at Harbor Freight for around $70, same machine that Lyman sells with their name on it. Also good for cleaning bolts and pistols etc. Just be careful what you use as a cleaner.
Had the same problem with a Tac65. I made a big (30") wooden wrench. Drilled a 1.125" hole about 6" from the end of a 2x4, cut a slot through to the hole with a 1/8" kirf blade, clamped the tool thingy in the vise, used a c-clamp to grab the suppressor tube with the wooden "strap wrench", spun it off with no trouble, no damage. I made a dowell the perfect size on the lathe, but you'll need to punch the innards out (gently) as well I'm sure.
What kind of can are you talking about here?
On re-assembly, DO NOT forget to cover the insides, I mean really douche them with anti-sieze. Works for me.
I'm at work, but I could try to take a picture of the whole contraption when I get home.
What kind of can are you talking about here?
On re-assembly, DO NOT forget to cover the insides, I mean really douche them with anti-sieze. Works for me.
I'm at work, but I could try to take a picture of the whole contraption when I get home.
Is it an all stainless can? If so you can mix hydrogen peroxide and vinegar 50/50 and soak the can. It will turn the lead fouling to lead acetate, a gas, and it will come apart. If the can is aluminum it will dissolve your entire can. However, it is toxic, so wear the proper PPE and do it outside.
I can't get the right ingredients with hydrogen peroxide & vinegar. My dad makes & sells lead fishing sinkers and I couldn't get this solution to melt or dissolve anything. It didn't work on my Cascade TI either.
A little heat and a strap wrench work wonders
A little heat and a strap wrench work wonders
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Which can?
Get a heat gun or hair dryer. Get it hot and while wearing gloves try and break it loose. Heat usually helps break solid bonds of materials.
As others have said, be careful what you soak it in. Aluminum is corrosive and fragile. Why do you think 22 cans are so cheap?
As others have said, be careful what you soak it in. Aluminum is corrosive and fragile. Why do you think 22 cans are so cheap?
Pretty great idea...I like the 2x4 as a breaker bar and the clamp to tighten the wood on the can....never would have crossed my mind.
fire 20 rds through it on a pistol in quick succession. add an oven mitt. then use those manly muscles
Ya I used 50/50 distilled white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide 3%
It sizzled and fizzled but didn't melt a soft lead fishing weight
It sizzled and fizzled but didn't melt a soft lead fishing weight
IIRC it should be 50/50 mix, 50% WV and 50% HP.
The "3%" is the strength of the peroxide not the number of ounces.
Oh ok, I thought that you meant 3% HP and 97% WV.
Penetrating oil + soak time+ heat will work wonders. I am not a fan of bathtub chemistry, but typically if you use Hydrogen Peroxide for any recipe it is best to use it immediately after opening. As it sits it looses its effectiveness, even with the cap on. Good luck.
I am not trying to be a dick, so take this as constructive criticism. You are not going to melt the lead but you will dissolve it. Did it sizzle and fizzle on the surface of the fishing weight? If so it was working, and it just needed time. What you should see if it is working is bubbles (hydrogen gas) form on the surface of the lead. If it is not working or it is working too slow for you, there is a good chance that your hydrogen peroxide is old. Over time hydrogen peroxide will degrade into water and oxygen gas, especially when hot, or when exposed to light.
If you are testing on a fishing weight you are not going to see the entire weight disappear either, unless you give it a long time with a lot of solution. You have to remember that fishing weight has a lot more lead in it than fouling does, and it has a much smaller surface area than the fouling as well, meaning it takes longer to react.
that is some leverage!
I talked with YHM yesterday and they told me to use mineral spirits. They also told me that if you use a sonic cleaner, they will void your warranty. They said it will cause hairline cracks in the ss. I don't know how this works but that is what the technician told me.
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screw all of the soaking. A strap wrench and a little heat do wonders.
That is odd as SWR advises to use the ultrasonic with their SS cans...
Mineral spirits did nothing for my .22 suppressor.
It does nothing to remove or soften the carbon / lead fowling.
It does nothing to remove or soften the carbon / lead fowling.
YHM Mites are known for this.
I have stuck my prodigy pretty good, but a strap wrench got it appart.
What kind of can is it?
I have stuck my prodigy pretty good, but a strap wrench got it appart.
What kind of can is it?
Lol... That is awesome. The ultimate strap/wood wrench.
I've been out a few days so I'm behind. I'll try the recommendations this weekend and report what works, hopefully. Thanks everyone.
Finally got it. 25 rounds and the rubber strap wrench did it. Had to use channel locks on the takedown knob. It fought every revolution of the way. Once the threads cleared the baffles gave me no problems. Now for a through cleaning and some Never-sieze (Sp). I also got a 20 minute upper body workout out of the deal. By the way it is a YHM 22 mite stainless unit. Thanks one and all, a treasure trove of experience.
