I had the handle re-timed, there's about a .030 gap between the bolt handle and the bolt shroud now. I was thinking about spinning it in the lathe and squaring it up then re-cutting the cocking area?
Thanks guys,
Kc
Thanks guys,
Kc
Gunsmithing Bolt handle retimed - Gap between shround and handle?
- Thread starter ugsly
- Start date
How is the cocking piece to sear handoff when closing the bolt? Does it cock on close or does it handoff smoothly? If you shorten the rear of the bolt you could cause it to add some cock on close and lose a smooth handoff you may already have. Once gone it's hard to get it back. Check this out before you cut. If you do cut it the cocking detent has to stay in the same place radially which means the ramp helix will have to change to match. You can attemt to fix all these things but it all adds to more work. I'll bet you end up leaving that .030" gap.
To add: even if you cut the back of the bolt you'll still be left with that .030" gap between the handle and shroud unless you make a new custom shroud.
To add: even if you cut the back of the bolt you'll still be left with that .030" gap between the handle and shroud unless you make a new custom shroud.
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Aeon,
Is there a good video available on the web that expains this timing? The pro's and cons of the handle degree position in relation to the cocking & extraction? Even though I have seen jigs to do this, always been curious how the handle was timed out to be just right. Basically a DIY tutorial or basic explanation of the process will do.
Thanks,
Jason
There isn't any all inclusive video/videos that I know of but there are quite a few that will give you a good idea of what is involved if you search around a bit. Gunsmith Stan Ware had some good You Tube videos if I recall. It seems no two action/timing jobs are exactly the same. Each has it's own compromises to be dealt with. Most custom actions designed for BR use have removable trigger hangers that can be had with differing trigger pin holes (moves trigger fore and aft) to aid in altering the sear handoff and or the amount of firing pin fall. Even with the hangers there is often a trade off between adequate pin fall to a smooth handoff or some cock on close.
Thanks Aeon, will check out his videos tonight.
I live in Oregon too, I threaded my bolt by myself but DO NOT turn the bolt I mean unless you want to spend $167 for a new bolt
Moving the bolt handle forward does create some other issues.
I've dealt with the gap by setting the shroud in another turn. The downside to that is that the cocking piece will protrude farther out the rear of the shroud, which doesn't bother me much.
I know of a couple people here on The Hide that have mentioned they have ways to rework the cocking piece if it doesn't transition from the bolt to the trigger smoothly. Chad Dixon is one and I believe Randall (2156SMK ?) was another. Obviously Aeon has some knowledge in this area as well.
It seems like a pita, but if you don't have positive extraction, you don't have shit.
Deepening the notch in the bolt that holds the cocking piece while the rifle is cocked, but out of battery isn't hard if you're competent and careful. On my bolts, I haven't had to deepen the main cutout that allows the cocking piece to travel forward when it's released.
I've dealt with the gap by setting the shroud in another turn. The downside to that is that the cocking piece will protrude farther out the rear of the shroud, which doesn't bother me much.
I know of a couple people here on The Hide that have mentioned they have ways to rework the cocking piece if it doesn't transition from the bolt to the trigger smoothly. Chad Dixon is one and I believe Randall (2156SMK ?) was another. Obviously Aeon has some knowledge in this area as well.
It seems like a pita, but if you don't have positive extraction, you don't have shit.
Deepening the notch in the bolt that holds the cocking piece while the rifle is cocked, but out of battery isn't hard if you're competent and careful. On my bolts, I haven't had to deepen the main cutout that allows the cocking piece to travel forward when it's released.
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On one bolt I had to widen this notch in one direction so the cocking piece would be centered when the bolt was pushed forward. Before it would rub/hit one side of the trigger pretty hard.
I agree that moving the bolt handle forward is generally a good idea because the cam for primary extraction is important for smooth and trouble free operation. If you're replacing the bolt handle then that's a perfect opportunity to time the replacement handle correctly, but I've built up handles with weld before to improve the cam function. This was just an easier way to achieve the same thing.
edit: One other area you can loose primary extraction is the hook. I've seen some that are really sloppy, such that the bolt would be well back on the cam before the hook would even touch the case rim. If you make it too tight though, then you risk not catching the rim at all if the case has a particularly thick rim or if the headspace allows the round to sit forward in the chamber a ways.
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The bolt handle and its respective cam serve one purpose, Primary extraction. If your handle was retimed thats fine. The gap between it and the shroud is insignificant IF the bolt functions as needed. The cocking, sear engagement work fine on a "retimed bolt handle" as long as the shroud wasn't monkeyed with.
Rgr that, Ill leave as is. The gooks on the other end wont be able to tell the difference.
Kc
Kc
