Im running a rem 700 aac-sd with the stock heavy barrel. I only shoot 100-200 yards. Is a barrel upgrade worth the money at the distance I shoot at? I don't shoot comps or anything, just trying to get the best groups possible at the range. How much would a barrel upgrade cost me? Which maker should I look at, and what sort of contour should I look for?
Looking at a barrel upgrade
- Thread starter Truth223
- Start date
What kind of accuracy is the rifle producing now?
Reloads or factory ammo?
Does the rifle have the original trigger and/or stock? If so, upgrade those before spending the coin for a new barrel IMO.
Reloads or factory ammo?
Does the rifle have the original trigger and/or stock? If so, upgrade those before spending the coin for a new barrel IMO.
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1 moa or worse,even with fggm 168
Bell and Carlson m40 stock torqued to 55in/lbs, and a timney 510
You need to hand load if you want to improve those groups, mine won't shoot any factory ammo I have tried well at all. But with my hand loads and enough cool down time between shots it will shoot .6moa. If I shoot a five shot group in rapid succession I get one flyer every time though.
If you reload, try ladder test if you don't jump up to 175 FGMM you have a 1-10 twist heavier will stabilize better but to be honest 168 should be great at least .75 moa also how much trigger time do you have?
If you do rbarrel, shilen is a solid perfermer. Thats all i use, helps that my 'smith used to work for them long long ago.
To answer your original question a barrel will run 315-350. Chamber headspace crown about 300. Not counting fluting and paint.
another option, get a criterion barrel with savage style barrel nut, no chambering needed, barrels run about 350, I have done a few of them and they shoot great.
http://criterionbarrels.com/productpages/prefits.html
also before you change anything
- check base and rings for tightness
-check scope, box it, see if it is tracking, and or put another scope on it and see if it is the scope.
- how many rounds down the barrel?
- do not over clean the barrel leave some copper in it
- hand load
- good followthrough on the trigger.
- and the big one that gets folks, check parallax
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If you are shooting a 1:10 heavy barrel, aftermarket stock, and trigger. Spend your money on reloading, not on a new barrel. Biggest increase in accuracy for me was using "sh*tty" reloading practices (+/- .5 grains).
Everyone told me not to re-barrel. I did it anyhow. Accuracy wasn't my issue. VTR barrel, with the triangle barrel, built in brake, 1:12 twist were my issues.
Shoot your barrel out before you take it off.
Everyone told me not to re-barrel. I did it anyhow. Accuracy wasn't my issue. VTR barrel, with the triangle barrel, built in brake, 1:12 twist were my issues.
Shoot your barrel out before you take it off.
Just like everyone else said, you've got to start loading for your rifle. Factory is like a factory rifle, good place to start but needs upgrades.
If you do rebarrel, check out Benchmark. Benchmark Barrels - Home Expect to pay $300-$400 for a barrel + install labor from your local smith. Contour is your call. On a range gun the heavier the better, but you may have to modify your stock or consider an aftermarket replacement.
If you do rebarrel, check out Benchmark. Benchmark Barrels - Home Expect to pay $300-$400 for a barrel + install labor from your local smith. Contour is your call. On a range gun the heavier the better, but you may have to modify your stock or consider an aftermarket replacement.
