Gunsmithing Switching Barrels

[jackinfl]

What are the preferred tools and techniques to switch barrels on a Remington 700 or the many clone style actions?

Hand tight? Torque wrench? Pro's and con's? Do you have to check head space each time? Remove the barreled action from stock or not?

All advice and experiences are appreciated.

Jack

 

[Graham]

Accuracy International AE MkII Barrel Change - YouTube

 

[jackinfl]

Thanks RG. That brings all kinds of questions to mind. I believe most gun smiths time the barrels to Top Dead Center. How is this re-timed? Am I over thinking. Also that is the AE is it the same for 700 and clones?

Jack

 

[Graham]

It's basically the same thing with the AE and other actions that are removable from the chassis and have removable recoil lugs. But you are over-thinking it: TDC is for pistons. The barrel markings may not re-align.

 

[Papagrizzly]

Changing barrels is very easy and you do not need to remove the stock in most cases. I never do. Here's a link that shows what it looks like.

https://www.woodstockint.com/catalog/2013/BaldEagle/11


As far as using a torque wrench - you can if you don't change barrels often. Our team members change barrels like we change our socks and most use the "feel" method. If you use a torque wrench a general rule is around 65 Foot lbs. Some do it more, but after about 65 foot lbs it is not necessary. Some tactical type rifle manufacturers may recommend more torque, and may also require removal of the stock. The headspace will not change much if over-torqued on custom single shot rifles - perhaps .0005". Be sure and use a good grease on the threads so you can remove the barrel easily.

 

[JB02]

[MENTION=25212]Papagrizzly[/MENTION] pretty much hit it.

I have a switch hitter setup on a Surgeon 591/R. Since I have an integral lug, and the barrels have already had their headspace set to the receiver by the gunsmith, there is no need to re-check headspace or use any go/no-go gauges after switching barrels.

Here is my procedure:
- Ensure rifle unloaded
- Remove bolt from receiver
- Remove scope
- Remove BA from stock
- Set BA in barrel vise, as close to recoil lug as I can get. I use a Tubbs 2K vise held down with 2 "c-clamps" and put strips of leather that I cut from a belt all around the barrel to preserve finish.
- Insert action wrench (I use a Surgeon action wrench) in receiver and attach to torque wrench (I have an adjustable 0-150 ft-lb torque wrench w/ 1/2" drive socket)
- Pop the action off the barrel and carefully unscrew the receiver
- Set new barrel in barrel vise
- Rub a small amount of nickle anti-seize onto barrel threads
- Screw receiver onto new barrel
- Torque receiver onto barrel using action wrench (just need to go snug, no retard strength ... you are metal to metal; Surgeon and Gap go 90 ft-lbs on their torque wrenches; I go less)
- Reassemble BA into stock
- Put scope back on receiver
- Install bolt in receiver
- Sight in at range

Hope this helps.

 

[jackinfl]

Definitely helps. Thank you. I am ordering this vise and torn between his regular action wrench and his torque compatible action wrench.

For Sale: new Action Wrenches and Barrel Vises... by Pbike257

 

[JB02]

Definitely helps. Thank you. I am ordering this vise and torn between his regular action wrench and his torque compatible action wrench.

For Sale: new Action Wrenches and Barrel Vises... by Pbike257

Those tools look pretty good! If I could do it all over again that's probably what I'd get (I had to wait 3 months for my T2K vise and had to purchase the Surgeon action wrench and torque wrench separately).