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Proper assembly for pre-fit on ARC CDG action?

lp916

Private
Minuteman
Nov 10, 2023
9
1
Florida
Afternoon, all. I'm looking to build my first "custom" bolt action in 300 PRC, but I've built a ton of precision AR's and a few USPSA competition pistols, so I'd like to think I'm not entirely clueless when it comes to general gunsmithing. I don't have a reloading setup (or the room for it at the moment), so the 300 PRC seemed like the best widely-available commercial ELR cartridge in .30 caliber, which was another requirement in order to fit a modular can I already have that I'd like to use on it. This will be mostly just a fun shooter and safe queen, as my first full bolt build...no plans for serious competition with it.

Anyway, I'm putting an X-Caliber carbon-wrapped pre-fit on an ARC Coup de Grace LA CIP action. X-Caliber says not to use a barrel clamp on their carbon-wrapped barrels (which is fair), but the CDG doesn't work with any action vices I've been able to find. The barrel nut I'd be using has flats for a standard 1 1/4" wrench, and the CDG action wrench has a hex fitting on the rear to fit a normal socket. Would the proper process for assembling this be to set the headspace and wrench down the barrel nut by hand, then clamp the barrel nut itself in my vice (with some tape on the flats) and use the CDG action wrench to set the torque?

Also - ARC says to torque the action on the barrel to 100-150lb/ft, but most pre-fit instructions with Savage small-shank barrel nuts say to use in the 60-80-ish range. Is there some common tribal knowledge on if I should listen to ARC or to other pre-fits on this, since the ARC action is generally made for shouldered barrels that are already headspaced? Appreciate any help and advice you all can give. Thanks all!
 
I’d go with an Zermatt Origin with a proof prefit over this.

Do not pay that much to get a barrel nut. They’re a cardinal sin in bolt guns and recipe for disaster on first time build. Get the origin + proof there’s not one single advantage to the setup you’re looking at over this
 
You can put the steel shank portion of the barrel in a barrel vice, just not the carbon portion. Then put a wrench on the nut, and a wrench on the action wrench. Hold the action still and tighten the nut. Exact Torque isn't super important. Think 50-80 ft/lbs. Headspace it close to the Go gauge.
 
Supersubes is correct. Tighten the nut while holding the action and barrel.
You can even use wood V-blocks to hold the barrel on the steel portion near the action.

I have done nut barrels without an action wrench, it just takes more care.


If you can't find a CDG action wrench, then you can use the one from Northland. You'll only use the lower portion with the 1/4×28 bolt. Just snug the bolt into it, you don't need to torque it to 65 in/lb