Rifle Scopes Mounting optics

[eli polite]

Next week I will finally be mounting my new glass. It should arrive on Thursday. I only have a few questions.

1- do you use locktight on your ring screws ?

2- how much torque do you use ?

3- does it really matter what torque driver you use. Is one really more accurate than the other.
I have seen a few on line in the $75 rang but I can buy one at lowes or Home Depot for a fraction if that.

I just don't want to do any thing stupid and screw my glass or mount up. I have a night force unimount 1.125 .20moa

 

[Maelstrom]

1- I don't use loctite on anything that I may want to take off eventually.
2- Follow the torque specs from your ring manufacturer. What brand rings are you using?
3- Borka. Not that expensive, very easy to use, and most importantly accurate and repeatable. Triad Tactical, Inc.*::*MISC Shooting Gear*::*Borka Tools Torque Driver Kits

 

[Trigger Monkey]

The only place I use blue loctite is on the base screws securing the scope base to the rifle and anywhere from 15-18 in/lb of torque depending on manufacturer specifications. I've never used blue loctite on the ring cap screws and I've never had any issues with them coming loose between multiple pairs of Badger, Nightforce, and even Burris rings. Just torque the ring cap screws to the manufacturer's specifications and you should be good to go, generally that's somewhere around 15-18 in/lb also.

In terms of torque wrenches, yes price does a make difference in terms of accuracy and repeatability and the Borka Tools has those in spades for not a lot of coin in the grand scheme of things. The Borka Tools torque driver is compact, easy to use, and I take it with me every time I go to the range not just for me but in case someone else is having an issue too. The Wheeler FAT wrench is another option for a budget torque driver, I've seen it in places like Gander Mountain, Bass Pro Shops, and even the local gunstore for about $50 or so. It's pretty easy to use and accurate but the ball detent to secure the bit holder is a little weak in my opinion. Whatever torque wrench you buy make sure it's an in/lb torque wrench and not ft/lbs, you don't want to make that kind of mistake torquing your action screws to 65 ft/lb or some shit.

Hope this helps...good luck.

 

[nic_bravo_whiskey]

The only place I use blue loctite is on the base screws securing the scope base to the rifle and anywhere from 15-18 in/lb of torque depending on manufacturer specifications. I've never used blue loctite on the ring cap screws and I've never had any issues with them coming loose between multiple pairs of Badger, Nightforce, and even Burris rings. Just torque the ring cap screws to the manufacturer's specifications and you should be good to go, generally that's somewhere around 15-18 in/lb also.

In terms of torque wrenches, yes price does a make difference in terms of accuracy and repeatability and the Borka Tools has those in spades for not a lot of coin in the grand scheme of things. The Borka Tools torque driver is compact, easy to use, and I take it with me every time I go to the range not just for me but in case someone else is having an issue too. The Wheeler FAT wrench is another option for a budget torque driver, I've seen it in places like Gander Mountain, Bass Pro Shops, and even the local gunstore for about $50 or so. It's pretty easy to use and accurate but the ball detent to secure the bit holder is a little weak in my opinion. Whatever torque wrench you buy make sure it's an in/lb torque wrench and not ft/lbs, you don't want to make that kind of mistake torquing your action screws to 65 ft/lb or some shit.

Hope this helps...good luck.

Lol. 65 ft/lbs. That's what I would torque my cylinder heads to on my 302 back in the day. Nothing on a rifle would even torque to that.