Planning on getting a bag in the next few months for a do-it-all/BOB. How many cubic inches are needed for 5-7 days? This pack might also serve double duty as a back packing bag too.
- Thread starter 30calDeath
- Start date
counter questions:
- in which seasons do you intend to use it?
- what kind of gear to you intend to carry / what's the occasion? hiking, hiking+tents, hiking+hunting, hiking+hunting+tents, hiking+climbing, ... 'do-it-all' can mean alot and nothing at the same time
- do you prefer comfort over weight? (comfort often means more volume)
- where is your weight limit when you carry something along?
- in which seasons do you intend to use it?
- what kind of gear to you intend to carry / what's the occasion? hiking, hiking+tents, hiking+hunting, hiking+hunting+tents, hiking+climbing, ... 'do-it-all' can mean alot and nothing at the same time
- do you prefer comfort over weight? (comfort often means more volume)
- where is your weight limit when you carry something along?
You pose some very good questions! Mostly this will be a BOB that will carry everything I need for 5-7 days at a time.
It will be used in all seasons
I plan to carry clothes, the necessary BOB pieces, some ammo and definitely a sleeping bag
I will not be carrying this bag for the most part until I need to go walking on foot.
I could deal with something 50-70lbs possibly more on the realistic side. I am in pretty good shape I hit the gym 4-6 days a week
I already have the Kifaru Koala so I am looking at one of their bags. I am interested in this Navigator (4,000c.i./65.54 liters) ? Kifaru Intl. Online Store
I know it is pricey but so far I really like my Koala and didnt mind the price tag for a small item. So I would like to stick with Kifaru, just dont know if I need a tactical type pack or if a hunting type pack would be better. This could be possibly used in urban environments so maybe the tactical type would fair better?
Personally i'd recommend you something semi-modular. like a 2-piece system.
The main bag ought to have 55l, with an additional bag you can add to the top with about 15l. The sides should have straps so you can attach additional gear. Try to keep pack/attachements close to your spine. This makes rotating easier and you don't have to bend forward that much to keep the center-of-mass point above your feet.
For comparison: My 60l pack got me through a 4 day hike through iceland, late autumn, including snowfall. We easily covered about 70km distance and spent most of the afternoons talking with people we met or climbing near mountain summits (that's where the detachable smaller bag comes in). Carried clothes, rain gear, sleeping bag, isolation mat, tent, cooking stuff, and food for the entire week (mainly rice and nuts). Water was obtained on the way from snow/ice and streams. Note: No hunting gear included here (which i'd likely reduce to rifle, ammo, binos).
The 4-person tent got distributed (one person per: outer shell, inner shell, poles) and attached to the outside of the packs. for weight-distribution, the isolation mat was attached to the opposite side of the pack.
Dry clothes should be stored in watertight bags and labelled so that you know what you're pulling out. Here, I like to abuse the bags with compression straps for obvious reasons (ortlieb, for instance).
Sleeping bag was stored in a watertight bag with compression straps. Make sure to air it well in the morning, right after getting up and before breakfast. That reduces humidity in the bag. For me it seems that temperatures below 0 degC help, as the humidity tends to freeze out on the surface of the sleeping bag and you can then just shake it out ...
You might wonder about all the separate watertight containers:
a) The buses in iceland frequently pass through rivers. You want to make sure you place your pack as late as possible, so it's as high as possible above waterline.
b) There is a lot of rain in iceland. While you can use those fold-over rain jackets for backpacks, the water will simply run down between back and pack and soak the pakc from there. A poncho (as seen from a swedish guy there) seems to perform alot better in that case.
c) One of us stumbled when we were crossing a river (about balls-high glacier run-down). He only submerged in the water to about chest-height, but still his pack went down into the water as well. Upon getting to the other side, we checked the pack and ... besides the pack itself, nothing got wet (even though the pack itself remained wet for the next 2 days)
The main bag ought to have 55l, with an additional bag you can add to the top with about 15l. The sides should have straps so you can attach additional gear. Try to keep pack/attachements close to your spine. This makes rotating easier and you don't have to bend forward that much to keep the center-of-mass point above your feet.
For comparison: My 60l pack got me through a 4 day hike through iceland, late autumn, including snowfall. We easily covered about 70km distance and spent most of the afternoons talking with people we met or climbing near mountain summits (that's where the detachable smaller bag comes in). Carried clothes, rain gear, sleeping bag, isolation mat, tent, cooking stuff, and food for the entire week (mainly rice and nuts). Water was obtained on the way from snow/ice and streams. Note: No hunting gear included here (which i'd likely reduce to rifle, ammo, binos).
The 4-person tent got distributed (one person per: outer shell, inner shell, poles) and attached to the outside of the packs. for weight-distribution, the isolation mat was attached to the opposite side of the pack.
Dry clothes should be stored in watertight bags and labelled so that you know what you're pulling out. Here, I like to abuse the bags with compression straps for obvious reasons (ortlieb, for instance).
Sleeping bag was stored in a watertight bag with compression straps. Make sure to air it well in the morning, right after getting up and before breakfast. That reduces humidity in the bag. For me it seems that temperatures below 0 degC help, as the humidity tends to freeze out on the surface of the sleeping bag and you can then just shake it out ...
You might wonder about all the separate watertight containers:
a) The buses in iceland frequently pass through rivers. You want to make sure you place your pack as late as possible, so it's as high as possible above waterline.
b) There is a lot of rain in iceland. While you can use those fold-over rain jackets for backpacks, the water will simply run down between back and pack and soak the pakc from there. A poncho (as seen from a swedish guy there) seems to perform alot better in that case.
c) One of us stumbled when we were crossing a river (about balls-high glacier run-down). He only submerged in the water to about chest-height, but still his pack went down into the water as well. Upon getting to the other side, we checked the pack and ... besides the pack itself, nothing got wet (even though the pack itself remained wet for the next 2 days)
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i have 13 pubic inches on my bag, hope that helps
I have the Kifaru Navigator and use a couple external pouches with it, and recently took it backpacking above 10k ft for a few days with the family. It's built like a tank and holds a ton of equipment. My pack weight was about 60lbs total and it rode very comfortably, including some rather steep ascents cross country. I had a double sleeping bag in the bottom compartment and still had room for rain gear in there as well. It's not light, but still not overly heavy either.
I've rucked a lot, both in and out of the military, and 4000ci is more than enough for a base pack, and you can easily add on another 1-3k ci with externals to fit your outing. Hunters may want more than it has to offer when packing out a hide or meat, but it's more than enough for standard use.
I've rucked a lot, both in and out of the military, and 4000ci is more than enough for a base pack, and you can easily add on another 1-3k ci with externals to fit your outing. Hunters may want more than it has to offer when packing out a hide or meat, but it's more than enough for standard use.
Thats exactly the bag I was looking at. I have a Kifaru Koala and it is an out standing piece. So you like the pack then I take it?
Yes, it's a very good ruck. I bought it with the intent of it being able to last me until my back and knees don't allow for rucking any more, and I believe it will do just that.
Do you want a Greg Lowe clam shell pack like most tactical packs or traditional klettersak? Both have their merits but I prefer a klettersak due to a long slimmer main body that is less restrictive on the body and more weatherproof. Greg Lowe design is less weatherproof and is wider shorter, compact or squatty.
As far as volume, a lot depends on what goes inside. High speed light weight kit and I can get a week inside 28-33L. I carried 12.5 pounds for a 4 day push in the Gach with my dyneema WildThings Andinista pack. And this is the pack I recommend. WT Tactical Andinista Pack | Lightweight alpine style climbing pack
If you are willing to spend $500 plus, give it a hard look. It can be zipped down to 1800ci or full open 4200ci. I have carried over 100 pounds in mine on 14 day trips that I guided.
Another pack I recommend in McHale. These are custom stitched for you, not off the shelf packs but a true custom pack to fit your body and needs about the same price as Kifaru.
Carrying weight is more than just being in shape. A pack that fits your body will carry more comfortably than one that does not. Grabbing an off the shelf pack, throwing it on the body and run to the hills is what most users do. But a pack fit to your body and packed correctly will offer more comfort.
For BOB only get a synthetic sleeping bag, around +20F.
Get trash compactor plastic bags to line your entire pack. Best weatherproof system I ever used.
I do not like kit hanging from the outside of my pack. Several reasons, it snags on things, produces more noise signature and can throw off your balance but I also know at times kit on the outside is a must.
Sounds like you are dedicated to Kifaru and there is nothing wrong about that, you asked so I am giving my opinion and expertise, take it or leave it, what ever you decide, run with it. Any pack in the 3000ci / 50L will be about perfect in volume, go up for winter or camping kit but 4000ci is about the volume limit for me.
As far as volume, a lot depends on what goes inside. High speed light weight kit and I can get a week inside 28-33L. I carried 12.5 pounds for a 4 day push in the Gach with my dyneema WildThings Andinista pack. And this is the pack I recommend. WT Tactical Andinista Pack | Lightweight alpine style climbing pack
If you are willing to spend $500 plus, give it a hard look. It can be zipped down to 1800ci or full open 4200ci. I have carried over 100 pounds in mine on 14 day trips that I guided.
Another pack I recommend in McHale. These are custom stitched for you, not off the shelf packs but a true custom pack to fit your body and needs about the same price as Kifaru.
Carrying weight is more than just being in shape. A pack that fits your body will carry more comfortably than one that does not. Grabbing an off the shelf pack, throwing it on the body and run to the hills is what most users do. But a pack fit to your body and packed correctly will offer more comfort.
For BOB only get a synthetic sleeping bag, around +20F.
Get trash compactor plastic bags to line your entire pack. Best weatherproof system I ever used.
I do not like kit hanging from the outside of my pack. Several reasons, it snags on things, produces more noise signature and can throw off your balance but I also know at times kit on the outside is a must.
Sounds like you are dedicated to Kifaru and there is nothing wrong about that, you asked so I am giving my opinion and expertise, take it or leave it, what ever you decide, run with it. Any pack in the 3000ci / 50L will be about perfect in volume, go up for winter or camping kit but 4000ci is about the volume limit for me.
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