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Rifle Scopes Mil Dot Clarification/Help

CJJL

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 10, 2013
3
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I understand the concept of ranging using the mil dot system, simple formula of target height x 1000/ #mils. But from here I'm kina lost as to how to adjust for that distance that I just ranged. I was under the assumption that each vertical mil dot represented a different range, for example, center would be lets say 200m, then every mil dot under it would be an additional hundred meters, is this correct? I know thats a very broad assumption, but before I start getting very percise I'd just like to understand how to adjust for distance. I'm thinking I won't be shooting out more then 500m for the time being.

Also, I have a variable scope in the front focal plane (reticle stays same..not to sure if thats front or not, NcStar 3-9x50) and I'm not to sure if I'm supposed to be fully zoomed in or out to range. I bought the scope from a local shop, no manual in the box, called NcStar and guy on the phone said to be in 7x magnification? To me it makes more sence that I should be zoomed all the way out(3x) to range and zoomed all the way in(9x) to make adjustments?

I need some help.

:confused:
 
heres some sound advice. throw that scope out your truck window going down the road. i know you might be upset for a moment but it will be far less painful then what you are about to dive into with that piece of shit.

now as for your mildots corresponding with a fixed range no they do not. what you are describing is a bdc or bullet drop compensating reticle. sometimes they look like a mildot ret but are usually not.

a true mil graduated reticle is useful for ranging if necessary but more useful for corrections and holds.

spend $300 on s super sniper with milquad reticle and start learning the ropes. they track true and its the best optic for the money. good luck
 
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SWFA no longer ships anywhere in Canada. If they did I would have saved up a bit more and got one.

Thanks for the BDC clarification though.
 
Man, I would never say or type the word "NcStar" on here or guys will tear you apart ... Like Killswich said- get one used off of the hide or ebay.. 200 to 250 bucks. You will be happy..
Look up "mil dot master" they are cheap - it's a slide rule thing for ranging shit
 
Picture of Mildot Master -- Slide rule thing for ranging shit....

mildotmaster.jpg
 
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Just to give some help with your current scope... You have a Second focal plane scope... the guy on the phone said 7x... that should be your ranging zoom... your reticle mil dot is designed for that mag... IF your turrets are .1 mil turrets rather than MOA turrets you'll be fine on adjusting... if it's MOA then it's a pain adjusting based on your reticle... If you're turrets are .1mil (which I really doubt they are) but just in case... at your ranging mag (7x in your case) each Mil Dot would equal to one mil (10 .1 clicks) at that distance One Mil is also approx 3.6 MOA so you can do that as well ... Hope this might help you or anyone else reading it
 
I understand the concept of ranging using the mil dot system, simple formula of target height x 1000/ #mils. But from here I'm kina lost as to how to adjust for that distance that I just ranged.

First off, check into getting this PC software program. It will help quite a lot.
ShooterReady

Second, you are getting confused between the concept of using the reticle for ranging a target and actually taking a shot at a specific distance.
When you mil a target of known size you get a specific mil reading by using the reticle to judge the size of the target in mils similar to reading a tape measure. For instance, if you look thru the scope and see a doorway that is 4 mils tall you can get an estimate the distance to the target as long as the doorway is a known height (standard in the USA is 81").
81" x 27.778 / 4 mils = 562 yards to the target.
Before actually taking a shot you then need to adjust for the yardage and windage. Using one of the range cards on the shooterready program for this exercise says that you need to adjust the elevation about 16 moa to get a center hit on the target (.223 using 77 grain Sierra MatchKing at 2650 fps muzzle velocity). The normal thing would be to mechanically adjust the elevation knob up 16 moa, adjust the windage knob for the wind condition, then take the shot.
Another choice is to utilize the mil reticle to hold over the target rather than centering the crosshairs. Because 3.45 moa = 1 mil, you would need to hold over the target 4.63 mils. (16 / 3.45 = 4.6376)


I was under the assumption that each vertical mil dot represented a different range, for example, center would be lets say 200m, then every mil dot under it would be an additional hundred meters, is this correct?
You are correct with the concept that each mil can represent a specific yardage but incorrect in your presumption that each mil represents a nice even yardage.
Typically I set my main crosshair zero to 100 yards.
Using the same ShooterReady range card for the .223 utilizing 77 grain MatchKing at 2650 fps, here is how it would break down

100 yards = 0 moa (main crosshairs)
200 yards = 2.0 moa
300 yards = 5.0 moa
400 yards = 8.6 moa
500 yards = 12.9 moa

Do the calculation to convert MOA to Mils (1 mil = 3.45 MOA)
100 yards = main crosshairs
255 yards = 1 mil holdover
365 yards = 2 mil holdover
440 yards = 3 mil holdover
520 yards = 4 mil holdover
These are just an example and your actual holdover would be based upon your caliber and ammunition specifics and MUST be verified after you get paper calculations.

Trying to do the conversion between MOA and MILS is why everybody I know utilizes a scope that has a MIL reticle and MIL knob adjustments.
 
I'm confused no more. Thank you guys, greatly appreciated.
 
Not a big deal, we all began somewhere, easier now that we have video, mildot master, the Hide and guys that have figured it out :)
 
I don't know how long you have been shooting, but you seem to be ahead of where I was, when I was just starting out with cheap optics. I really wish I knew about this site 10 years ago, because the ass ripping you get for succumbing to the cosmetic & economical appeal of a junk scope is far less painful than realizing that all the time, gas, money, & ammo was spent in vain, trying to make accuracy happen with an optic that just wasn't designed to sustain repeatable accuracy, or hold zero consistently. Thanks for asking the question, too, because I just picked up some more useful info.
 
I second "shooter ready". It has a really good classroom tutorial that u can go through over and over untill you get it. It's also fun to shoot on there, as long as you don't take it too seriously..
 
DFOOSKING,

I had a teacher in high school that said "it is not shameful to be ignorant, it is only shameful to remain so". Those words have always stuck with me. I really appreciated the video you have made here, it is a great help to those of us who want to understand how this all works, but are afraid to ask what may seem to be a stupid question to those well versed in these tactics.

Thanks for the excellent video.