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I Need A New Safe

Gosu

Gosu

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 18, 2012
263
0
55
I am looking for something with a hour rating, doesn't need to be flashy. It just needs to work for fire resistance and denying entry other than me or the wife (of course within reason). I would prefer to keep it sub $2k. Got a kid in college. Current one is too small and I bought it used. Any help with dealers or websites and brands would be great. I have /will have in it give or take 12 scoped long guns and around the same with handguns. I would like to have room for one box (paperwork).
Thanks
 
gunsafes.com is a really good place to look. They sell most brands. My last one came from there and they were hands down the best price and free delivery. It's a Liberty Franklin 27 and I'm really pleased with it. I would upgrade to the perimeter lighting instead of the overhead if I did it again.
 
Last edited:
xeroflux.net said:
Model 2723 : Gun Safe : Sturdy Safe
add 560 for fire and your around 2100.00 shipping is free if you call them they usually discount pricing on top of this when you call in and talk to them.
Click to expand...
I'll give them a call

mdmorrow said:
gunsafes.com is a really good place to look. They sell most brands. My last one came from there and they were hands down the best price and free delivery. It's a Liberty Franklin 27 and I'm really pleased with it. I would upgrade to the perimeter lighting instead of the overhead if I did it again.
Click to expand...
Been looking there, I still need to call them
 
sturdy safe. the website cost assumes the maximum shipping and handling- if you call, they will likely quote you lower. they also often have a few safes in stock and ready to go if you are flexible on size and configuration. i got a small discount for one in stock. family owned and operated company with the family handling day to day business. they happen to be close by so i have been there and seen the manufacturing and warehouse. i just dropped by and the owner walked me around. he was in work overalls and boots and had obviously been getting dirty the whole morning. even though they are "small" they are still producing hundreds of safes per month.
 
ChemE1975 said:
sturdy safe. the website cost assumes the maximum shipping and handling- if you call, they will likely quote you lower. they also often have a few safes in stock and ready to go if you are flexible on size and configuration. i got a small discount for one in stock. family owned and operated company with the family handling day to day business. they happen to be close by so i have been there and seen the manufacturing and warehouse. i just dropped by and the owner walked me around. he was in work overalls and boots and had obviously been getting dirty the whole morning. even though they are "small" they are still producing hundreds of safes per month.
Click to expand...

Where are they located?
 
California is my guess and I am upstate New York. So, not around the corner. I just sent them a email.
 
again, i can't emphasize enough how nice it was to buy a product manufactured here by a family owned and operated business.

something i did not say is that i believe the product is better than anything in the price range and as good as many costing much much more.
 
Just buy a safe that is at least one size bigger than you think you will need. You also say you have 12 scoped long guns. You will find that for some reason, scoped rifles take up a lot of room compared to non-scoped rifles so if the safe literature says it will hold 20 rifles, I would cut that number in half to give you a more realistic idea of what it can hold.
 
I bought one from Cabelas about 6 years ago and it has been awesome. I believe mine is made by Liberty if I recall.
 
Check out the Liberty Fat Boy, it is under 2k and for the money comes with some pretty good features.
 
ChemE1975 said:
Gosu, I would call. You will get better service and better pricing.
Click to expand...
I'll give them a shout

Hairball said:
Just buy a safe that is at least one size bigger than you think you will need. You also say you have 12 scoped long guns. You will find that for some reason, scoped rifles take up a lot of room compared to non-scoped rifles so if the safe literature says it will hold 20 rifles, I would cut that number in half to give you a more realistic idea of what it can hold.
Click to expand...
That is why I am looking at the 32" or wider.
gregsjt said:
Check out the Liberty Fat Boy, it is under 2k and for the money comes with some pretty good features.
Click to expand...
I have not been able to find them under $2K, unless you know of one.
 
I have not been able to find them under $2K, unless you know of one.
Click to expand...

I think the list retail price is over 2k, but the street price is around 1800. I bought mine from a ranch and farm store in Idaho. Not sure who would sell them in your area.
 
Gosu said:
I am looking for something with a hour rating, doesn't need to be flashy. It just needs to work for fire resistance and denying entry other than me or the wife (of course within reason). I would prefer to keep it sub $2k. Got a kid in college. Current one is too small and I bought it used. Any help with dealers or websites and brands would be great. I have /will have in it give or take 12 scoped long guns and around the same with handguns. I would like to have room for one box (paperwork).
Thanks
Click to expand...

First thing, Ignore everything you have been told in this thread.
Next, Go read Questions for AMSEC TheSafeGuy - AR15.COM in its entirety
Third, come back here and you can see who is giving good advice, who is blowing smoke out their ass, and who buys into the marketing bullshit in the safe industry.

Before you spend a DIME on a safe, Every $ you have in guns/optics/accsesories should be insured. Thats priority one. Next, determine what you need and what you can afford. There are some great products for the money (sturdy) , but any moron with a cut off wheel and angle grinder can get into one in 5 minutes. You really do get what you pay for and if a Safe is what you seek, and AMSEC BF series is as low as I would go, considering you have a decent collection. Otherwise a Dakota XP modular hiden somewhere in your home would be a good idea for the budget constrained.
 
The Fatboy Jr. is a 48 gun. It's the same width as the Fatboy but just a little less deep. These can be found well under $2k.
 
And they are Junk...... seriosuly go read and learn about safes before giving poor advice. This forum is better than that.
 
Cobracutter said:
And they are Junk...... seriosuly go read and learn about safes before giving poor advice. This forum is better than that.
Click to expand...

The responses were based on his requirements. You sure do love to throw turds in every punch bowl you come across. In web-speak: troll.
 
kydron said:
The Fatboy Jr. is a 48 gun. It's the same width as the Fatboy but just a little less deep. These can be found well under $2k.
Click to expand...

I am looking for something with a hour or better rating. The regular Fatboy has that the jr doesn't.
 
Gosu said:
I am looking for something with a hour or better rating. The regular Fatboy has that the jr doesn't.
Click to expand...

And if you read the fucking thread, you would see that most fire ratings mean shit, as there is no standarized testing parameters.
 
Cobracutter said:
And if you read the fucking thread, you would see that most fire ratings mean shit, as there is no standarized testing parameters.
Click to expand...

I think you mean "don't mean shit", not "most most fire rating mean shit". I going to assume that you can be a deductive person. With that the rating gives a baseline that changes with the duration of the test. I would assume that within the thread it elaborates on that along with how the temperature also changes as the duration increases. Understand how the test evolves and you can come to a baseline that you are comfortable with. Most UL tests are far from perfect, I get that therefore I use their tests again as a baseline not as gospel.

I have seen that thread before and it is very good. Likely the best on anything that I have seen, still I take its information and digest it. Several people have had similar questions to what I have and I also take that in.

That all being said, take a breath and ease up. You have seen my questions and you know that I already own a AMSEC safe, we'll I am assuming that you read this thread before you posted the comment "and if you read the fucking thread".
 
Checkout the Big Horn safes at Costco. The 7144 is a lot of safe for the money, especially when it goes on sale at Costco.
 
Gosu said:
I think you mean "don't mean shit", not "most most fire rating mean shit". I going to assume that you can be a deductive person. With that the rating gives a baseline that changes with the duration of the test. I would assume that within the thread it elaborates on that along with how the temperature also changes as the duration increases. Understand how the test evolves and you can come to a baseline that you are comfortable with. Most UL tests are far from perfect, I get that therefore I use their tests again as a baseline not as gospel.

I have seen that thread before and it is very good. Likely the best on anything that I have seen, still I take its information and digest it. Several people have had similar questions to what I have and I also take that in.

That all being said, take a breath and ease up. You have seen my questions and you know that I already own a AMSEC safe, we'll I am assuming that you read this thread before you posted the comment "and if you read the fucking thread".
Click to expand...

-Nice try at correcting me, next time get the quote right sunshine.
-Most gunsafes are NOT UL Fire tested, As there is NO UL FIRERATING FOR GUN SAFES........... they are RSC tested , which has nothing to do with fire rating.
-The fire ratings on almost every safe are a joke, and way under the heat curve of most house fires
-AMSEC makes about 6 different Gun Safe lines... and 4 of them are Shit.... Unless you have a BF or HS series, they are just as bad as the shit that Liberty/Cannon/and the rest of overpriced tin can companies put out.
-You say the information I put out and refer to "is likley the best on anything I have seen", yet you are trying to discredit me somehow......
-You never said WHAT AMSEC safe you had...
 
Cobracutter said:
-Nice try at correcting me, next time get the quote right sunshine.
-Most gunsafes are NOT UL Fire tested, As there is NO UL FIRERATING FOR GUN SAFES........... they are RSC tested , which has nothing to do with fire rating.
-The fire ratings on almost every safe are a joke, and way under the heat curve of most house fires
-AMSEC makes about 6 different Gun Safe lines... and 4 of them are Shit.... Unless you have a BF or HS series, they are just as bad as the shit that Liberty/Cannon/and the rest of overpriced tin can companies put out.
-You say the information I put out and refer to "is likley the best on anything I have seen", yet you are trying to discredit me somehow......
-You never said WHAT AMSEC safe you had...
Click to expand...

Well, first off, thank you for calling me sunshine, so sweat of you.

Let me show you something off UL website:

Fire Ratings Explained

U.L. FIRE RESISTIVE RATING

CLASSIFICATION

THE FOLLOWING IS AN EXPLANATION OF THE UNDERWRITER’S LABORATORIES’ FIRE RESISTANT CONTAINER TESTING PROCEDURES ON THE CLASS 350°F, ONE HOUR AND TWO HOUR FIRE LABELS.

U.L. Label/Class 350°F-one hour and Class 350°F-two hour. The safe will maintain an interior temperature less than 350°F when exposed to fire for a period of one hour at 1700°F or for a period of two hours at 1850°F. Safe must successfully undergo all other requirements for the Fire Endurance Test, Explosion Hazard Test and the Fire/Impact Test as stated below.

FIRE ENDURANCE TEST
After heat sensors and paper are placed inside the safe, the unit is locked and exposed to a uniformly distributed fire. The furnace is regulated to reach a maximum temperature of 1700°F for a period of one hour, or 1850°F for two hours, then allowed to cool without opening the furnace. The interior temperature is recorded throughout the test and during the cooling period until a definite drop is shown and must never exceed 350°F.

Once cooled, the unit is opened and examined for usability. The units locking mechanisms and parts fastenings are examined for security and the interior examined for visible evidence of undue heat transmission.

EXPLOSION HAZARD TEST
The safe is locked and placed into a furnace preheated to 2000°F. This temperature is maintained for 30 minutes (2 hour test is 45 minutes) and if no explosion results, the unit is allowed to cool without opening the furnace doors. Once cooled, the unit is opened and examined for usability. The units locking mechanisms and parts fastenings are examined for security and the interior examined for visible evidence of undue heat transmission.

FIRE IMPACT TEST
(MANUFACTURER’S OPTION)
After the explosion hazard test the safe is removed from the furnace and within two minutes is dropped 30’ onto a riprap of brick on a heavy concrete base. After impact the unit is examined for deformation, rupture of parts, damaged insulation and any other openings into the interior of the unit. Once cooled, the unit is inverted and reheated to 1550°F for a period of 30 min. (2 hour test: 45 min. at 1638°F).
Once cooled, the unit is opened and examined for usability. The units locking mechanisms and parts fastenings are examined for security and the interior examined for visible evidence of undue heat transmission.


____________________

With that UL doesn't test fire rating on safes that are sheetrock lined, that is typically done by the company that manufacturers the safe.
As far as if I mucked up your quote, I don't really give a rat ass.
 
CC: This guy is asking for guidance and the link you provided may have some value, but isn't worth the BS that accompanies it.

"First thing, Ignore everything you have been told in this thread." (Did I get that quote right, sunshine?)
Does that include a referral to gunsafes.com where they sell the AmSecs you recommend?
Does that include the suggestion to buy bigger than you think you need? I'd love to hear you dispute that. (Actually, I wouldn't)

You don't know jack about the FD or PD response times to his house or any other relevant facts that go into his decision and are apparently more interested in hearing yourself blather on than listening and understanding what the OP wants. It is his thread after all. You and your thread are not the end-all be-all final authority on this or any subject so learn some manners.
 
And yet you are still missing the point. THOSE ARE NOT GUN SAFES, AS UL DOES NOT FIRE TEST GUN SAFES.
 
I'll go another direction, buy the best you can afford and make it a heavy bastard. Don't worry about fire rating as has been brought up there is no standard out there - even an unlined safe will provide you protection for awhile. Your best bet if fire safety is very high on your list of priorities, is to have a sprinkler head installed above your safe and have a floor drain near by. Also keep any combustible materials (fire load) away from or out of the room of your safe.

FWIW - I have a Zanotti Armor safe - Gun Safes for your home or business | Zanotti Armor® set atop a 4 inch riser. If it's stolen, broken into, or the sprinkler doesn't work, insurance will cover it.
 
Cobracutter said:
And yet you are still missing the point. THOSE ARE NOT GUN SAFES, AS UL DOES NOT FIRE TEST GUN SAFES.
Click to expand...

How about this, read this off AMSEC site - AMSEC-Fire Rating

Do you know what the BF AMSEC safes stand for? Burglary and Fire, it is a model within the Burglary and Fire line that you can use for a Gun Safe. Dude, I appreciate your passion to help in your own way. But no thanks.

I really don't want to turn this thread into a pissing match, ok?
 
fireEMT5 said:
I'll go another direction, buy the best you can afford and make it a heavy bastard. Don't worry about fire rating as has been brought up there is no standard out there - even an unlined safe will provide you protection for awhile. Your best bet if fire safety is very high on your list of priorities, is to have a sprinkler head installed above your safe and have a floor drain near by. Also keep any combustible materials (fire load) away from or out of the room of your safe.

FWIW - I have a Zanotti Armor safe - Gun Safes for your home or business | Zanotti Armor® set atop a 4 inch riser. If it's stolen, broken into, or the sprinkler doesn't work, insurance will cover it.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I can't imagine putting a sprinkler in my house above the safe. I would put a thin flex hose that would burn away first... j/k.....I most likely will go with another AMSEC. I do like the 7 gauge steel that Sturdy Safe uses also. Unfortunately they were occupied when I called earlier. I try them again tomorrow.
 
For the record, this is a simple chart that I found before and like to share:

UL Gun Safe Ratings

The most reputable independent safety testing and certification agency is Underwriters Laboratories. Also known as UL, the organization conduct a variety of tests on gun safes that include burglar resistance, fire resistance, explosive and impact testing. These tests determine the gun safe ratings that the safe qualify as.
UL Burglary classifications

“Entry” is considered opening the safe’s door or creating an 6 inch square hole. All Performance ratings listed below are in ascending order.
RSC

UL Technicians perform attacks on the safe by means of prying, hitting, drilling, chiseling and tampering. If the safe withstands forced entry for at least 5 minutes against attacks it receives an RSC rating.


TL-15

The gun safe needs to resist attacks for 15 minutes by attacks that are performed with common mechanical and electric tools, common hand tools, lock picking devices, carbide drilling, grinding and pressure applying mechanisms.


TL-30

The ability to successfully resist entry for 30 minutes when attacked with common mechanical and electric tools, hand tools, grinding, carbide drilling, pressure mechanisms, lock picking and power saws.


TL-30X6

Equivalent to the TL-30 test with the exception, the safe has to resist entry on all 6 six sides to receive certification.


TL-40

The safe will resist attacks for 40 minutes. The safe offers protection against common mechanical and electrical tools, hand tools, lock picking tools, grinding, carbide drilling, pressure applying devices and power saws.


TRTL-30

TRTL is a rating for a safe that successfully resisted 30 minutes of attacks with a cutting torch and other tools which include hand tools, power saws, carbide drilling and other impact devices.


TRTL-60

The same endurance test applies but for a period of 60 minutes.


Class TXTL-60

The same requirements must be achieved as TRTL-60 and the safe must also be able to endure up to 8 ounces of nitroglycerin or an explosive in an equivalent measure for one charge.


UL Fire resistance ratings
thermometerClass 125

The safe must maintain an internal atmospheric temperature of 125°F maximum and a humidity level of 80%. The safe could be water resistant as well because of the fire resistant seal on the door. This rating is sufficient to protect magnetic storage mediums at the listed specification.


Class 150

The safe must maintain an internal atmospheric temperature of 150°F maximum and a humidity level of 85%. This rating is sufficient to protect optical media such as compact discs and hard drives. The safe could be water resistant.


Class 350

The safe must maintain an internal atmospheric temperature of 350°F maximum and a humidity level of 85%. This rating safe is sufficient to protect guns, jewelry and paper. The safe could be water resistant as well.
Heating times and temperatures:

30 minutes rating at 1550°F

1 hour rating at 1700°F

2 hours rating at 1850°F

3 hours rating at 1925°F

4 hours rating at 2000°F

See the tag attached to the gun safe for the specification it is certified at.


Explosion hazard test

All UL fire-rated safes undergo this test. The safe is inserted into a pre-heated oven at 2000°F for up to 50 minutes. The safe’s mechanisms and the paper test material placed inside the safe must maintain their integrity. An explosion must not occur when the safe is opened.
Heating and Rating

2000°F for 20 minutes = ½ hour rating

2000°F for 30 minutes = 1 hour rating

2000°F for 45 minutes = 2 hour rating

2000°F for 50 minutes = 3 hour rating

The reason for this is that the average house fire only reaches a temperature of 1200°F


UL Fire ratings impact test

The gun safe is dropped after the explosion test from a height of 30 feet onto concrete or bricks. The safe is then turned upside down and reheated. During this test the safe must maintain its integrity and that of the test material in order to be certified.
 
Gosu said:
which model do you have and where did you buy it?
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Heritage CX4372. It's not the top of their offerings, but not the bottom either. My "home" gun shop is a dealer for them. Got a good deal and since I'm living in a barn that's been turned into an apartment and the safe is in my garage I didn't want to go the next level up until I'm in my own house. I will get the next size and series up once I build a house and use this safe for ammo mostly. I too advise you to get at least the next size bigger than you think you need, if not the biggest you can fit for your location. They shrink up fast even though you think it will be fine. Over all I like mine a lot and don't know how I went all those years with guns laying on my bedroom floor. I looked at liberty and heritage both and would have looked at ft Knox if they were closer to me. I'm glad I went heritage and not liberty. There is another company out west that I saw a guy on Hkpro had, can't remember the name, but they were awesome when he sent me the info. I had not heard of them before, I'll see if I can find it again.
 
Jaytil said:
CC: This guy is asking for guidance and the link you provided may have some value, but isn't worth the BS that accompanies it.

"First thing, Ignore everything you have been told in this thread." (Did I get that quote right, sunshine?)
Does that include a referral to gunsafes.com where they sell the AmSecs you recommend?
Does that include the suggestion to buy bigger than you think you need? I'd love to hear you dispute that. (Actually, I wouldn't)

You don't know jack about the FD or PD response times to his house or any other relevant facts that go into his decision and are apparently more interested in hearing yourself blather on than listening and understanding what the OP wants. It is his thread after all. You and your thread are not the end-all be-all final authority on this or any subject so learn some manners.
Click to expand...

What the fuck are you talking about.. BS that accompanies it? Its probally the most comphrensive and detailed collection of good gun safe info on the net... if you cant take time to read it... Then I dont know what to tell you sport.

And FD and PD response time is irrelivent... Even if the FD is there within 10 mins which is unlikely, the heat curve is going to destroy the contents of that safe in MUCH less than 30 minutes, and even after the fire it put out, its still sitting in hot coals.... with the temp rising....

You either want a safe or some bullshit RSC that wont stop anything but a 5 year old from getting into it. Decide what you want, but stop bullshiting people, beacuse this advice could be the difference in their Tens of thousands of dollar collection being destroyed or preserved after a fire.
 
Cobracutter said:
BS that accompanies it?
Click to expand...

Your BS, not in the link you provided. I put examples immediately below where I said that. Wake up and "read the f-ing thread".

I'm not bullshitting anyone. I'm responding to exactly what he asked for, not going off on some know-it-all, bully rant and insulting all the other comments on the thread like you did here and on the fake Atlas bipod thread.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ipment/189402-how-spot-fake-atlas-bi-pod.html

Trolls should stay under their bridges.
 
I have a Diebold, a AMSEC BF, and a Heritage. I have had a few cheap "fire" safes (liberty, Stack on). As you can imagine those cheap ones are you guessed it, cheap. They use ordinary drywall for fire protection which isn't the greatest, the build quality sucks, and somebody with a few basic hand tools and a little time can breach them.

On the other end of the spectrum is the Diebold which is the shit. It's TL30 rated and has 1" steel the whole way around and is concrete filled. It takes a talented person to get into something like that. It weighs 6000lbs and new is extremely expensive but just like mine there are deals to be had. If you you have the means to get something like this in your home you would be a fool to not look for something like a used Diebold or Mosler before spending the same money on a lesser safe. The down side is you will have to build an interior which isn't hard. Mine is a double door and I'm a function over form guy so I bought some of the cheap foam racks and made one side for rifle storage and the other has shelves.

In between them is the Heritage and AMSEC. The Heritage is pretty, no getting around it, and has a good finish quality. However it has drywall for fire insulation and the interior of mine fell apart requiring to be rebuilt. It also has a drywall door wrapped with thin layer of steel like the econo safes which makes it more flexible andmpre easy to pry. Honestly I wish I had never bought it.

My AMSEC BF is still pretty new, it's the 2013 with thicker walls and I've had it since may. It is super beefy and screams quality build. I ordered it with a textured finish and it certainly didn't come flawless but the dealer made it right. It has a 1/2" steel plate door which is not flexible at all and weighs a fucking ton for a safe in this class. It has REAL fire insulation that actually works in the form of steel, concrete like fill, and another layer of steel. This protects your guns and doesn't release moisture and steam them like drywall. The layers of steel meet each other at the door opening forming a very hard and thick threshold for the bolts to lock behind making it even more pry proof. The Heritage just has the outer layer of steel bent back that the bolts lock behind and is nowhere near as secure. I also love the layout of the interior and the door organizer is great.

If you want to keep honest people honest and don't want to put much effort into moving a new safe in and don't want to pay a company to install it, buy one of the econo safes. They are all the same and offer the same protection, basically you pay for interior setup, not security. They are relatively light and two people can move even the largest models, one person can move a 30 gun or less as long as no stairs are involved.

If you want solid fire and burglary protection and want to buy something and have it delivered and installed while you drink a beer, buy an AMSEC BF. They are heavy but you and few friends can also move them if you're just going in a basement door or something. If you have stairs, hire a proffessional and have them look at your stairs first to determine if they can handle the weight.

If you want the best protection, have a walk out basement and are willing to do some leg work, buy the real deal. Look for a used one like a Diebold, Mosler, etc. You will need to find it and at the very least arrange pickup and delivery/install. If you watch the install, bring beer and popcorn, it will be entertaining. If you have a truck you can can use/rent a trailer to pick it up. If you have some willing volunteers you can also bring it in yourself. $300 rents you an offroad forklift with extending boom that you can use to get it to the house and pipes or heavy duty moving dollies (the kind with forks that strap together and are rated 6-10k lbs) will move it around provided there are no stairs to get it in. This will save you $1k or so vs. having somebody else do it.

If you don't know what you want or can't afford what you really want now, buy a insurance policy and be patient. Take your time with your decision and stash away funds if you need to.
 
redneckbmxer24 said:
I have a Diebold, a AMSEC BF, and a Heritage. I have had a few cheap "fire" safes (liberty, Stack on). As you can imagine those cheap ones are you guessed it, cheap. They use ordinary drywall for fire protection which isn't the greatest, the build quality sucks, and somebody with a few basic hand tools and a little time can breach them.

On the other end of the spectrum is the Diebold which is the shit. It's TL30 rated and has 1" steel the whole way around and is concrete filled. It takes a talented person to get into something like that. It weighs 6000lbs and new is extremely expensive but just like mine there are deals to be had. If you you have the means to get something like this in your home you would be a fool to not look for something like a used Diebold or Mosler before spending the same money on a lesser safe. The down side is you will have to build an interior which isn't hard. Mine is a double door and I'm a function over form guy so I bought some of the cheap foam racks and made one side for rifle storage and the other has shelves.

In between them is the Heritage and AMSEC. The Heritage is pretty, no getting around it, and has a good finish quality. However it has drywall for fire insulation and the interior of mine fell apart requiring to be rebuilt. It also has a drywall door wrapped with thin layer of steel like the econo safes which makes it more flexible andmpre easy to pry. Honestly I wish I had never bought it.

My AMSEC BF is still pretty new, it's the 2013 with thicker walls and I've had it since may. It is super beefy and screams quality build. I ordered it with a textured finish and it certainly didn't come flawless but the dealer made it right. It has a 1/2" steel plate door which is not flexible at all and weighs a fucking ton for a safe in this class. It has REAL fire insulation that actually works in the form of steel, concrete like fill, and another layer of steel. This protects your guns and doesn't release moisture and steam them like drywall. The layers of steel meet each other at the door opening forming a very hard and thick threshold for the bolts to lock behind making it even more pry proof. The Heritage just has the outer layer of steel bent back that the bolts lock behind and is nowhere near as secure. I also love the layout of the interior and the door organizer is great.

If you want to keep honest people honest and don't want to put much effort into moving a new safe in and don't want to pay a company to install it, buy one of the econo safes. They are all the same and offer the same protection, basically you pay for interior setup, not security. They are relatively light and two people can move even the largest models, one person can move a 30 gun or less as long as no stairs are involved.

If you want solid fire and burglary protection and want to buy something and have it delivered and installed while you drink a beer, buy an AMSEC BF. They are heavy but you and few friends can also move them if you're just going in a basement door or something. If you have stairs, hire a proffessional and have them look at your stairs first to determine if they can handle the weight.

If you want the best protection, have a walk out basement and are willing to do some leg work, buy the real deal. Look for a used one like a Diebold, Mosler, etc. You will need to find it and at the very least arrange pickup and delivery/install. If you watch the install, bring beer and popcorn, it will be entertaining. If you have a truck you can can use/rent a trailer to pick it up. If you have some willing volunteers you can also bring it in yourself. $300 rents you an offroad forklift with extending boom that you can use to get it to the house and pipes or heavy duty moving dollies (the kind with forks that strap together and are rated 6-10k lbs) will move it around provided there are no stairs to get it in. This will save you $1k or so vs. having somebody else do it.

If you don't know what you want or can't afford what you really want now, buy a insurance policy and be patient. Take your time with your decision and stash away funds if you need to.
Click to expand...

Seems legit advise. My door doesn't flex but ill admit, anything is breechable given enough time, tools and determination. In the class I could afford at the time and was willing to put in my garage, heritage won out.
 
I would like the clarify, when I said the AMSEC doesnt come flawless I was speaking in terms of the paint, there are flaws here and there at least on mine, the interior is perfect though. They also put little features on them like the mirror and the big handle on the door which are very nice, I also like that the emblems are held on by pegs in rubber grommets so they can be lifted off the door for cleaning. You don't have to sit there and cleaned the letter with a qtip. Yes, I clean the exterior of my safe. I'm very glad I followed others advise and bought this safe.
 
I'm looking at the AMSEC BF 7240 & 7250. My price between the two is only $100. Which would be your pick? 7240 with the 1/2" plate or the 7250 with 10" wider and 2" deeper with the thinner 3/16" plate for an extra $100.
 
I Need A New Safe

There is a company located here in Oklahoma called Bear Safes. They are very, very nice and have models below $2k but also above.

Check them out. I am not sure where you'd buy one online other than ordering direct from them. I am currently stashing Beanie Babies and when the prices skyrocket I will sell them and grab me a Bear safe...

http://www.bearsafes.net/products
 
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