Bedding with an oversized recoil lug.

[goodgorilla]

Here are a few givens:
Action: 700 Remington bdl 7mm rem mag
stock: cholate tactical long action
barrel: Krieger 1.25 strait, 9 twist.

I am asking this question because I have not yet bought the barrel or stock. In the services section of the Krieger barrels they offer to install an oversized recoil lug. As ameture, my initial thoughts are that an oversized recoil lug would help with accuracy. But then I wonder if the oversized recoil lug matters if you glass bed the action, like I am planning to do. Does anyone have any insight on this?

 

[Greg Langelius *]

That's a common viewpoint, and it may have a good basis for some.

I have, however, never been able to discriminate any actual difference in accuracy due to either retaining an original recoil lug, or to replacing one with something more robust. Some folks replace the lug on general principles, but it's entirely possible many will never have the actual marksmanship skill to prove the benefit conclusively. There probably is a difference, and it is probably too small to emerge from the background of small, unresolvable impediments to perfection. In a cost vs visible benefit comparison, I remain unconvinced. It's maybe just another way to spend money seeking a higher plateau that many see as desirable, but fail to see any benefit after. Unless you're at the top of the game compared to most shooters, I would not count on it for any demonstrable improvement.

Some lugs get ground for flatness. I feel roughly the same about that too.

Bedding the action, with or without the oversize lug, will be a far more beneficial improvement.

The only surface of the lug that should contact bedding is the rear surface. The front, side, and bottom surface should have clearance at least roughly equivalent to the thickness of a business card. While I have done quite a bit of bedding on my own rifles, I would entrust a match gun to a real gunsmith; getting it right in such an application is that important.

Greg

 

[goodgorilla]

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the smaller lug because of the glass bedding. I have been watching bedding videos and reading much about it. I want to try and do it myself after I feel confident enough, unless you really insist. I think I could do it if I buy the right equipment for it. I already have a nice gun vise.

 

[dinc]

The biggest reason for an oversize recoil lug: Resale value. If it's got a big one, it looks custom and will create more demand.

Does it make a difference? Not if everything else is correct. I have seen a factory Remington lug bent. The rifle had been dropped onto it's muzzle and the action was loose in a factory aluminum block stock.

If you've trued the front of the action a ground flat lug is recommended. Flat to flat is automatically going to leave less stress. If it hasn't been trued a flat lug is still going to reduce the chance of adding additional misaligned torque. (It will also reduce the chance of accidentally slightly correcting two misaligned surfaces but if you're playing that game you're already hosed.)

A proper bedding job is important in all of the above scenarios.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Yeah, I think I'll stick with the smaller lug because of the glass bedding. I have been watching bedding videos and reading much about it. I want to try and do it myself after I feel confident enough, unless you really insist. I think I could do it if I buy the right equipment for it. I already have a nice gun vise.

The hardest part of doing one's first bedding job is getting up the courage to try. It gets easier just about immediately after that. My first one was back in the mid-1990's with a Norinco SKS. I read up on bedding the Garand, and took a mental leap trying to adapt the process to the SKS. The difference was astounding, that SKS (with handloads) could shoot almost up there with the Garands out to 300yd; but much beyond that, it fizzled out.

I would do the first one on something where you can Dremel it out if it goes poorly and try again, preferably with a rifle that needs it badly (I.e., loosen the bolts, shake, hear it rattle and clunk...)

Greg

 

[goodgorilla]

I would do the first one on something where you can Dremel it out if it goes poorly and try again, preferably with a rifle that needs it badly (I.e., loosen the bolts, shake, hear it rattle and clunk...)
Greg

I also have a ruger 10/22, but the stock is pretty light and doesn't seem like it would take a glass bed very well.

If you've trued the front of the action a ground flat lug is recommended. Flat to flat is automatically going to leave less stress. If it hasn't been trued a flat lug is still going to reduce the chance of adding additional misaligned torque. (It will also reduce the chance of accidentally slightly correcting two misaligned surfaces but if you're playing that game you're already hosed.)

A proper bedding job is important in all of the above scenarios.

The Krieger barrel company offers a truing service, so you recommend that? What is a flat lug?

 

[dinc]

If you're putting a Krieger barrel on it, I would have it trued.

Most aftermarket (thick) lugs are precision ground flat and square. A lot of smiths that reuse the factory Remington lug surface grind them to assure that they are flat and front and back are parallel.

 

[goodgorilla]

If you're putting a Krieger barrel on it, I would have it trued.

Most aftermarket (thick) lugs are precision ground flat and square. A lot of smiths that reuse the factory Remington lug surface grind them to assure that they are flat and front and back are parallel.

Do you think it's overkill for a newbie like me to get a krieger to start out with? I do want to get a bull barrel on it so that the recoil is turned down a little along with longer barrel life. When I researched krieger, people genearlly say they are the best, but their prices look reasonable.

I doubt that kriger will grind down my stock lug, does that mean I should get a new one?