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Savage- 12LRP, or build?

Wannashootit

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 3, 2010
    2,128
    476
    FL
    Want to set the older son up with a new Savage for Xmas, 1000 yard stick. Caliber of choice is .260, and the 12LRP seems to be a great value.

    If I were to "build", It will cost $500 for the target action, but then I still need the barrel and stock. Not sure about the barrels, though.
    If I go with a Criterion prefit, does the Target action use the large shank (magnum) barrel, or is it something different?

    It would certainly cost more than the remaining $500 "left" (comparing to the cost of the LRP) to buy the barrel ($300 or more) and then a stock.

    Anything to be substantially gained by building without getting into substantial additional expense?

    Opinions from those who've been there, and done that, appreciated.
     
    The savage 12 target action takes the large shank. Savage has switched the stock in in the last few months to the he precision with the vertical grip. I bought one a a few months ago with the old stock and it has been a great shooter avg .3 to .5 with the factory barrel. I have dropped mine in a manners stock so if you build one I can donate the hs percision stock to you if you pay the shipping.
     
    While factory savage barrels are normally accurate enough for most uses, going with a aftermarket barrel hedges ur bet. The large shanke is what u need and criterions are damn good barrels. U could just go model 12 or 10 action from jim briggs. Usually about 375 ish, lug for 25, trued nut for 30, and a criterion prefit for 300. About 730 plus stock. Drop it in a &c or hs, sometimes jim has take off stocks on hand. A b&c runs about 225, so still under1k with a premium barrel that will perform. My 6 br tact criterion will put 20 inside .422"@100 prone off a bipod and beanbag.
     
    My son and I have had this same conversation and he finally went with the 12 LPR. Just got it yesterday so I can't tell you how well it shoots yet and with the outside temp in the single digits it ain't going to happen soon. He went with the .260 caliber and as Decoy said they changed the stock and it looks great. I do see that there is some warpage in the barrel channel however I don't think that it touches anywhere. We will probably drop it in a chassis sometime in the future but what I was trying to get him to do was to buy a stock gun and spend more on the scope. He ended up buying a Atacr from a member here on the Hide and we are looking forward to seeing how this combo shoots. His first inclination was to spend 3-5K on a rifle and buy a $900 scope however he's got a $1000 rifle that he can and will upgrade later but an awesome optic that should last many years.

    As it was said you can buy a target action for $500, a stock or chassis for $500-1000+, a barrel for $350-??? Then you need a trigger, wrenches to put the barrel on, go-no go gauge etc. For 1K we've got a rifle that will most likely shoot better than what our abilities are and a platform to build on.

    When I first started shooting long range I had a hard time figuring out which direction to go and ended up with a Savage action, .308 Criterion barrel and Manners stock all put together by Kevin Rayhill. Not an expensive set up but still more than a stock factory rifle. I bought it from a member here on the Hide and it's a great setup however I've seen box stock factory rifles that shoot smaller groups. My point is that many factory rifles will shoot fine out of the box so why not start with one and have your action for a future build?
     
    Target actions are large shank and model 10 tact &12 varmint are small shank. Model 16 can be both, depends on what they were from factory . If u get all through nss, jim will get u squared away. One of the nicest hs stocks for a savage is the vertical grip model that comes on the lrp now, when i bought my lrp in 6.5 cm it had the more hunting style hs. That vertical grip model is available from stocky's and jim might have some instock.
     
    As others have confirmed the LRP is a large shank action. There was another recent discussion about the 12LRP that you might find informative:

    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-rifles/222848-savage-12-lrp.html#post2817021


    The best place I know of to pick up a 12 LRP is Grab-a-Gun for $900 + $5 shipping:

    Savage 12LRP 19137 26-inch 4rd Matte Black Barrel Online Gun Store

    If you need more than a four round magazine contact Dan at Dark Eagle Customs for a 10 round mag and one of his extended mag releases. Hands down these beat any other "high capacity" magazine on the market that uses the Savage DBM system. Plus Dan is a super nice guy! :

    Darkeagle Custom, Inc.

    The LRP receiver is round on top so the scope base will be a SA round receiver type. EGW, Weaver, Warne, ect are all excellent choices. Down the road upgrading the barrel with a pre-fit from Shilen, Criterion, and others is a straightforward process. Rifle Basix makes a nice replacement trigger if this will be a gun for Tac matches rather then F-class or bench work. Overall it is an excellent rifle and an outstanding bargain.

    That's one of my 12LRP's in my sig. :)
     
    Thanks for the awesome responses guys.

    Decoy, what a generous offer...might take you up on that! More $$ to spend on the optic...
    I'm debating whether to go for an XLR, and that would give him a temporary home for it until we would get the chassis, and I could send the HS back to ya.

    Which begs another question, change of topic somewhat but it's my thread, so fuck it...
    I'm intrigued by the chassis systems. BUT...I'm only "tacticool" to a minor extent. My son, perhaps more so (hey, he's still 20)- but it still comes down to function over looks.

    Anything really gained with a chassis system, over a properly, stress-free epoxy bedded receiver in a "traditional" stock? Is it about the "adjustability"? Worth the coin?

    I hadn't thought about NSS being less than Buds on the action...there is "something" about doing the build (done a couple, have the wrench), another "father/son" project like his Grendel AR build.
     
    Bunsen, thanks for the links.
    The stock in your sig pic looks like the current stock on Savage's website. But that's not a vertical grip stock- so what's this I'm hearing? It's been changed, but Savage is showing the old stock on their website?

    https://s3.amazonaws.com/savagefiles/firearms/models/610/ZUHyCoPUj_I8I7nPIeReYx7iEW.png

    EDIT: I see from your thread linked above that Savage is not showing the correct stock on their site...hmmm...
    I'll need to confirm this if I go with the 12LRP before I order it. I once had Buds send me an old (BUT, NIB) Savage that should have had the Accustock and didn't... . Not that the Accustock is all that, and I replaced it anyway, but the point that they sent me an "old" version of the current model. Fuckers would probably send me an older model off the back of the shelf instead of the new stock.

    I've read the Target Accutrigger is better than the standard, and doesn't need replacing...? That's pretty much the rationale in going with the Target action to begin with, right? Otherwise, why not the standard short action...
     
    Last edited:
    This is what the newer stock looks like:

    HSPST036.jpg


    A friend has ordered two LRP's from Grab-a-Gun (one in late June and one in Nov) and both have been the newer style stock. I have no idea what Bud's has in inventory in regards to the stock presently, but these "new" stocks have been out since Jan 2013. I'm sure there is still some old inventory out there, but the probability of getting it is fairly low with a high volume retailer, typically. :)

    The Target Accu-trigger is a great trigger and can be set down to about 8oz. HOWEVER, once you set it below ~1.5lbs if you run the bolt hard you can trip the safety mechanism and have to re-cock the bolt (lift handle). It's great for bench work or F-class, but not so much for a run-n-gun fast bolt manipulation style Tactical match, IMO.
     
    Stripped actions come with triggers already. If u are getting a savage might as well get an nut wrench, it's only a matter of time. Most men have a vise, so only need barrel blocks. The same go gage that headspaces a 260 also sets headspace for 243,260,7-08,&308; pretty much the most popular calibers. The other point, i like savage and put my money on a box savage outshooting a box rem of similar configuration but....savage does use a drill press to chamber barrels, the barrels still copper up bad and are a chore to clean compared to a good aftermarket barrel. Lastly, i have saw many factory barrels that shoot 1/2-1/3 moa @100(sometimes, not agg.) but these same barrels will shot only moa at extended ranges. Bullets are matched to twist, mid teens ES and single digit SD. I have had barrels like this, that's why my 6.5 cm lrp wears a brux now in 6.5 cm. With my rifle the only thing factory is the action, brux barrel,aics, and ptg bolthead fill in the rest. Love my rifle, and it actually shoots in the .3-.4 ave, not .3-.5 interweb ave. Laid down some 1/2 moa groups at 1330 the other day. With my rifle i wished i started with a stripped action and built from the get go instead of spending 775 for rifle and then 1500 later for the real parts.
     
    I have a 260 LRP and am in the middle of a custom build too. Seeing as it took 9 months to assemble the barrel, action (bighorn), stock (AICS 1.5), trigger (timney), reamer, and go gauge I am eager to see it come together. Realistically, I am assuming the LRP will shoot .5 MOA out of the box if I do my part, and I expect the custom 6.5x47 to be a little better than that, but ultimately 3x the cost.
     
    Yep...
    Have barrel blocks, nut wrench and the go-gauge already from my 7-08 build.

    As you can see from my sig, I make laminate stocks- just no time to do the Savage (and Rem) prototypes yet!

    Thanks for the suggestions.
     
    I think ur son will like either one, hell i would lol. If this was a first time shooter asking factory or custom, i would say factory. I take it that this won't be his first rifle or his first experience at extended range? If not then i would build him a tack driver, that why when a shot goes off course its not " must be the factory barrel . I beleive the target actions come with a trued lug and nut, so u would be looking at 825 for barreled action and then whatever stock strikes ur fancy. If u can find a 260 lrp it might be old stock and come with the more hunting style hs, not the new vertical grip version. Sounds like u got the tools to make it happen. Either way sounds like ur son will have a merry Christmas
     
    I ordered a 12 LRP last week and it should arrive in a few days. I hope I get the older style stock (like what was pictured from where I purchased it) instead of the newer one. JMHO
     
    I went through the same type of problem not to long ago. Thought about buying vs. building. Since I'm out of .308 and into 6.5CM now, my 10PC in .308 is a safe queen. I decided to build my 10PC into a 6.5CM and sell the .308 barrel and accustock to recoup some costs.

    I called Jim at NSS and got a small shank CIB 24" threaded in 6.5CM, his recoil lug and bbl nut, got about 8 weeks left before the bbl is done. After that I will be sending the new bbl and old barreled action to Fred at SSS to be fluted, trued and installed. I have a Manners T2A being built and once the new barreled action is done, it will be going to Tom for inletting.

    If you don't want to go through with all of that, the 12LRP would be your answer.
     
    Any opinions on the savage LRPV?

    I've got a Savage 12 LRPV Right bolt, Left Port in .223. I like it a lot.
    Single shot but left port option helps keep things moving along.
    1/9" twist was the only option when I got it. 69gr stabilizes very well.
    New ones may be slightly lighter as the barrels are now fluted and may be a slightly different contour.
    Solid 3/4 min or better out to 300yds, the limit of our range.
    This one doesn't mind pushing velocity.

    Also have a LRP in .260
    It looked to be as accurate as the LRPV at 100yds but seems to open up a bit at 300.
    It does NOT like to be pushed.