Out of a 308 bolt gun I am getting flattened primers and ejector circles on the end of my brass.I am shooting light loads,neck tension is .001 and I full length size only and set my necks back .003 to .004.I shot some factory ammo and didn't notice this.I mostly shoot federal brass with 210m primers.I am getting the accuracy that I am looking for and shooting 4 grains under max with no split case mouths.Any ideas?
- Thread starter Brux
- Start date
Has it been a while since you cleaner your barrel. I have had people tell me about having similar issues and it turned out a ring of carbon fouling had formed just beyond the throat. This seems to be in "match" quality barrel that do not copper foul and therefore go 50-100 rounds between thorough cleaning.
What are the specifics of your load and what data are you using?
Thanks for the feedback.I will reset my dies and see if that fixes my problem.I checked the shoulders on FGMM from the factory and they are set back .004 more than what I set my reloads back and I don't get these impressions on those case's when I shoot them.Will give this a try.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
You should list your load, if you have both flat primers and ejector circles, I'd say you have pressure. Load might not be as light as you suspect.
Are you shooting with gun lube in the chamber or case lube on the cases...that will give you ejector marks.
Flat primers don't always mean anything at all...other than they have soft cups.
After sizing, deburring, and chamfering...I rinse my brass in acetone...dries completely in just a few minutes and leaves the brass super clean and grippy, ensures proper grip to the chamber walls during firing.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Flat primers don't always mean anything at all...other than they have soft cups.
After sizing, deburring, and chamfering...I rinse my brass in acetone...dries completely in just a few minutes and leaves the brass super clean and grippy, ensures proper grip to the chamber walls during firing.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Milo,my load is listed see above.
Ridgerunner, chamber is clean and has no lube in it and when I resize I lube my cases with imperial and then they go into the tumbler for 5 to 6 hours and then wiped down.Should not be any lube on them at time of reloading.
Ridgerunner, chamber is clean and has no lube in it and when I resize I lube my cases with imperial and then they go into the tumbler for 5 to 6 hours and then wiped down.Should not be any lube on them at time of reloading.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
Sorry Brux, face palm self, vow to read the entire thread!
is there no chance you loaded hotter then you thought, or used some heavier projectile or neck sized tighter then you thought you did? if there is no chance of this I really don't know what to say.
I'd make a new batch just to be sure and be hyper vigilant
another thought, how many times have you reloaded this brass, perhaps it worked hardened ?
I'd make a new batch just to be sure and be hyper vigilant
another thought, how many times have you reloaded this brass, perhaps it worked hardened ?
Yeah fgmm has a ton of headspace. I don't think that is the problem. But you really only need to barely bump the shoulder. With a FL die, you can actually not even bump the shoulder at all, or less than the measurable .001" as suggested, Bc as long as you size the body, the round will chamber. Do you have access to a chronograph? Reason I ask is Bc your loads are almost identical to fgmm, despite the difference in headspace. 168 fgmm runs about 2650 to 2700. If you are considerably faster than that, then you have your answer; you need to back the load off due to an unidentified factor. Theoretically, you should have a higher case capacity than the factory ammo, and less pressure, but sometimes the only way to figure stuff out with reloading is trial and error. Get your velocity and then we can resume the brainstorming.
Curious. Waiting for chrono numbers.
What's your process for cleaning the gun? Residual oil in the chamber can easily cause bolt face marks due to increased rearward thrust from the case. I'd imagine it's even more of an issue with these fancy new lubricants. And yes, this is a documented issue. Make sure you remove as much oil from your chamber as you can. Or don't clean so often.
I believe that any attempt to hypothesize the cause of this issue right now is simply a shot in the dark. Just wait until the chrono numbers come back. Remember something...he is not getting pressure signs from factory ammo. I am hoping that the numbers indicate a super hot load, so Brux's problem will be solved.
mijp5, I think you are on to the real answer. I just experienced the exact problem. Mild load in 22-250 was amazingly hot. Have dropped to H4350 to maintain safe pressure. ( 55gr sgk 3520fps new 24" barrel)
I get the same thing with Varget when loading light like that. The primer pushes back before the case head slams into the bolt face while flattening the primer. Bump it up to 45g and primers will look normal. Or just live with it.
What kind of accuracy are you getting? I was never satisfied with varget and 168s until I got enough in the case to compress it, then I saw good accuracy.
What kind of accuracy are you getting? I was never satisfied with varget and 168s until I got enough in the case to compress it, then I saw good accuracy.
No numbers yet guys.If everything goes to plan I am supposed to shoot tomorrow with my friends chrono,weather permitting.I appreciate everybody's feedback on this.It has been raining and cloudy here and he said you won't get accurate numbers in those conditions.It was nice here today but he was busy.
Are you by chance using used brass that you bought off the internet? The reason I ask is because a buddy of mine had the same problem. He bought some "once fired" brass from gunbroker and it turned out they were from some fully automatic machine gun. It was the strangest thing. New brass, same load, same primer, same bullet... fires great. His gunbroker brass, same load, same primer, same bullet... way over pressure, blown primers, and ejector marks. He ended up throwing the used brass away and has not had a problem since.
Ok, well at least now we know that your load isn't hot. Ejector marks are the only sign you see? How do the primers look? I would try some different charges, even stepping it up a bit until you start getting sticky bolt. Try seating the bullets out a few hundredths too. Something's gotta give here.
If he has ejector marks he already has sticky bolt lift...the brass flowing into the ejector hole is a large part of what causes sticky bolt lift...
Federal brass is very soft...and thick...I would find new brass.
Flat primers don't necessarily mean anything at all...
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Federal brass is very soft...and thick...I would find new brass.
Flat primers don't necessarily mean anything at all...
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Ferderal Brass DONT USE IT it is way to soft and has never caused me anything but problems. I wouldnt waste the type to load it up if someone gave me new federal brass. Just my opinion.
That is an assumption. All he reported was ejector marks. Until he states otherwise, then that is his only observation.
He'd likely be slower if he was shooting 190s
I have some hornady match brass I can try.The gun is chambered tight,which it should be and the go and no go guage seems to be correct.I am getting about .004 stretch on brass when fired and there is .004 difference in your go and no go guage for chambering.
Similar threads
