I am doing some research so I can build myself a barrel flush system for when I'm chambering a barrel. How many psi does it take to push the cutting fluid past the reamer? I have thought about using a compressed air tank filled with cutting fluid instead of a high dallor pump. Not sure that will work but I'm looking into it. Also what type of cutting fluid is generally used? Any info one could share would be great. Thanks Lee
Gunsmithing barrel flushing system. how much psi?
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
PSI will be dependent on the type of cutting fluid used. I’ve been using Viper’s Venom which takes about 40-50 PSI for a good chip flushing flow. Your reamer pilot may also increase needed pressure if it’s not designed to allow good passage of the oil.
I would anticipate problems with a pressurized system. You’re going to have to keep the pressure in the tank at sustained level for constant flow. You’re also going to need to have a large enough reservoir so you don’t run out of oil since it will be difficult returning it to the tank while maintaining flow pressure. This kind of system is surely possible but presents a few additional hurdles that will need to be overcome.
Chamber flushing systems are definitely the way to go but going cheap often results in more headaches than it’s worth. I ended up spending more than I anticipated for a good system but I’m glad that I did.
I would anticipate problems with a pressurized system. You’re going to have to keep the pressure in the tank at sustained level for constant flow. You’re also going to need to have a large enough reservoir so you don’t run out of oil since it will be difficult returning it to the tank while maintaining flow pressure. This kind of system is surely possible but presents a few additional hurdles that will need to be overcome.
Chamber flushing systems are definitely the way to go but going cheap often results in more headaches than it’s worth. I ended up spending more than I anticipated for a good system but I’m glad that I did.
That is good advise!
I may be wrong but i think you will be wasting your time on an air system. The frustration and time will not be worth it. Ask me how i know!
I just built one with hydraulic pump parts from eBay and tractor supply for under $150 including the filters. Hell, i almost paid that much in cutting oil. It will pump my cutting fluid mix from 0 to 125 psi.
I just chambered my 4th rifle and used it for the last three. I wont chamber another one without it.
I used the basic design after seeing WNROSCOE's. I hope he doesn't mind.
Other than the addition step of refilling your pressure tank with oil I see no reason why it wouldn't work fine. Oil at 70psi is oil at 70psi regardless of whether it comes from a pump or pressure tank. Done right I think it would be very workable.
Gary
Gary
I was thinking of using an air bomb tank, 10gallon tank at local farm store 25 bucks. they will hold 135 psi. Im not saying this is how I will do it but I think its doable. lee
Lee, not too sure adding high pressure air over any oil is good plan. I try to keep air and oil apart.
Been thinking about a flush system also, will be looking for Roscoes pics shortly.
Been thinking about a flush system also, will be looking for Roscoes pics shortly.
Just for you Mikee, ask and you shall receive.
Here's an over all picture from two angles
This shows the carbonator pump and filter system. MSC has the pumps and the filter system is from a hydraulic supply company. The filter assembly is for an external filtration system.
This is the manifold that I built up. It has a pressure gauge, bypass line with pressure control, main supply line, control valve and outlet to the apron on my lathe.
This is where the fluid is pumped to at the apron. From here it can go to my chamber flush head or onto the work piece. The black line goes to the chamber flushing muzzle attachment point.
The reservoir is under the lathe and holds approx. 3-4 gallons. The mix is 1 gallon of EP Tap Magic Ultra to 2 gallons of Dark Rigid Threading oil. Pressure during chambering is approx. 45 to 50 psi on the gauge. It'll squirt to the back wall if your not careful, don't ask. The oil is sucked up into and through the filter, through the pump, to the manifold and to the lathe. The excess flows through my chip pan and back to the reservoir under the lathe.
If you want more pressure your going to have to use a water based coolant to thin the mix. I opted oil based because basically, the water mix is a PITA and has to be changed out periodically. This way I can use any other oil based product I choose to and not worry about cross contamination. This system works like a champ and is the only way to fly.
Roscoe thanks for sharing your setup, I like it! What brand is your lathe?
You're welcome and thanks. The lathe is a 3 phase 13x40 ENCO Turn-pro and was made by the Lux-Matter Corp in Taiwan.
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies
Thanks William, I'm going to be putting a system together soon too. This is very helpful.
I am using a pump from an oil furnace with spin off filter on the pickup side. You don't need a gauge because you will adjust the flow dependant on how much you get splashed in the face. If you are using oil be sure to use synthetic hose because oil eats rubber. I am using gun drill oil which works great. Remember to notch the bushing screw to line up with the flutes so the oil can get through.
My scenario.
One, I got away from oil and went to a water based synthetic. Much easier on everything.
Viscosity plays alot it takes more pressure to put cold oil across the reamer pilot than water. So, upon retraction you have to deal with "the belch".
Your after two things here. Chip evacuation and lubrication.
Chip evac is a function of pressure and volume. Your biggest enemy is chip compaction in the gullets of the reamer. Especially on smaller calibers like the 223.
You gotta be able to keep them clear. Failure will lead to chip weld and possible tool breakage.
Lubrication of cutting surfaces is next. Oil does an ok job. The modern synthetics though are really nice too. One 5 gallon pail of coolant will last a guy a very long time. Very long!
8% is where we run our stuff and were reaming at 500rpm and up to .008/rev.
Gotta have a stout setup for this...
Last remember that with more pressure you have to ensure the system is tolerant. Cheapo knuckle fittings can bite your ass. A couple hundred bucks buys you a carbide sealed hydraulic union. So long as you filter your fluid prior to it reaching the union youll never wear it out and youll never have a chip wedge between pilot and bore.
Those cheap plastic dixie cups with the plastic screws will also bite you. Better to have a more positive clamping setup. Especially with the pressure going up.
Just something to consider if your akin to not having an exxon oil slick to clean up everytime you chamber.
Good luck
C.
One, I got away from oil and went to a water based synthetic. Much easier on everything.
Viscosity plays alot it takes more pressure to put cold oil across the reamer pilot than water. So, upon retraction you have to deal with "the belch".
Your after two things here. Chip evacuation and lubrication.
Chip evac is a function of pressure and volume. Your biggest enemy is chip compaction in the gullets of the reamer. Especially on smaller calibers like the 223.
You gotta be able to keep them clear. Failure will lead to chip weld and possible tool breakage.
Lubrication of cutting surfaces is next. Oil does an ok job. The modern synthetics though are really nice too. One 5 gallon pail of coolant will last a guy a very long time. Very long!
8% is where we run our stuff and were reaming at 500rpm and up to .008/rev.
Gotta have a stout setup for this...
Last remember that with more pressure you have to ensure the system is tolerant. Cheapo knuckle fittings can bite your ass. A couple hundred bucks buys you a carbide sealed hydraulic union. So long as you filter your fluid prior to it reaching the union youll never wear it out and youll never have a chip wedge between pilot and bore.
Those cheap plastic dixie cups with the plastic screws will also bite you. Better to have a more positive clamping setup. Especially with the pressure going up.
Just something to consider if your akin to not having an exxon oil slick to clean up everytime you chamber.
Good luck
C.
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Hi Chad, how are you?
Ian Robertson
Ian Robertson
IAN! Wholly chit man!
You gotta call me sometime brother!
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
You gotta call me sometime brother!
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
This shows the carbonator pump and filter system. MSC has the pumps and the filter system is from a hydraulic supply company. The filter assembly is for an external filtration system.
That a 1/3 or 1/2hp motor on there roscoe?
Amy reason you chose to put the filter on the suction side, gtr suggests it on the pressure side. Just curious.
I assume we need to stay away from the carbonator vane pumps and only use the gear style?
Thanks
Galaxy S3 on tapatalk
How would this work for you
Bur-Cam Pumps 600652B Reservoir A Diaphragme 15. 0 Gal - Horizontal Captive Air: Outdoor Play : Walmart.com
Bur-Cam Pumps 600652B Reservoir A Diaphragme 15. 0 Gal - Horizontal Captive Air: Outdoor Play : Walmart.com
Just finished this one today, haven't gotten the chance to use it chambering yet though.
1/3hp shertech gear pump from eBay
5 micron spun poly water filter
On the manifold in case anyone is wondering... top left is pressure in, bottom left is pressure out to muzzle, right side is bypass back to tank with a valve to control pressure.
My lathe doesn't have a sump so had to fab the catch pan, that was the hardest part, especially without a sheet metal brake. Hard to tell but it's attached to a tool holder for the qc post.
I ended up getting rustlick ws5050 just because I'm cheap and that's what enco had and I had 20% off and free shipping. I mixed it 8:1, not sure how I'm going to like it though, it's basically still water viscosity. Do any of you guys run yours this thin? I still have 1.5 gallons left so I can thicken it up quite a bit still.
Galaxy S3 on tapatalk
1/3hp shertech gear pump from eBay
5 micron spun poly water filter
On the manifold in case anyone is wondering... top left is pressure in, bottom left is pressure out to muzzle, right side is bypass back to tank with a valve to control pressure.
My lathe doesn't have a sump so had to fab the catch pan, that was the hardest part, especially without a sheet metal brake. Hard to tell but it's attached to a tool holder for the qc post.
I ended up getting rustlick ws5050 just because I'm cheap and that's what enco had and I had 20% off and free shipping. I mixed it 8:1, not sure how I'm going to like it though, it's basically still water viscosity. Do any of you guys run yours this thin? I still have 1.5 gallons left so I can thicken it up quite a bit still.
Galaxy S3 on tapatalk
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Mine is filtered this way. You need a filter before the pump to keep the shavings from damaging it.
The way I saw it with the filter is Id rather keep shavings out of the barrel than the pump, especially if the pump decides to grenade and send shit through the barrel. Also, depending on how the tank works, the shavings should settle to the bottom and not get sucked back into the pump.
I guess ideally a filter on both sides of the pump would be the best solution.
I guess ideally a filter on both sides of the pump would be the best solution.
Hi i am very insterested in building my own flush system.Just finished this one today, haven't gotten the chance to use it chambering yet though.
1/3hp shertech gear pump from eBay
5 micron spun poly water filter
On the manifold in case anyone is wondering... top left is pressure in, bottom left is pressure out to muzzle, right side is bypass back to tank with a valve to control pressure.
My lathe doesn't have a sump so had to fab the catch pan, that was the hardest part, especially without a sheet metal brake. Hard to tell but it's attached to a tool holder for the qc post.
I ended up getting rustlick ws5050 just because I'm cheap and that's what enco had and I had 20% off and free shipping. I mixed it 8:1, not sure how I'm going to like it though, it's basically still water viscosity. Do any of you guys run yours this thin? I still have 1.5 gallons left so I can thicken it up quite a bit still.
Galaxy S3 on tapatalk
What type of rotating union r you all using??
Where would i get one?
There's many threads here on the subject like the old one you revived here, just type it into the search bar....
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