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Rifle Scopes Paralax adjustments?

LRRifleman

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 6, 2013
39
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Southern New Jersey
Hi. I have an El Paso Weaver T16 I am installing on a Remington 700 (.308) I am building as a long range F class rifle. For the most part, this rifle will be used for matches ranging from 800 to 1000 yards, with an occasional 600 yard match.

My question: if I set the parallax for 1000 yards, must I reset the parallax adjustments for the shorter yard lines, or can I utilize the 1000 yard setting for the shorter distances without an adverse affect?

Having been an iron sight service rifle shooter for 25 years, and an iron sight small bore shooter prior to that, shooting glass sights is a new adventure. Any constructive advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Ideally, you'll want to adjust parallax for the ranges your shooting at to eliminate any optical distortion/errors. Having said that, will there be that much error induced to make that much of a difference in accuracy, I can't answer that?
 
You will be able to answer your own question while sighting the distances. You will be able to see the required adjustment in reticle / target relationship. Move your head [eye] and not the rig. It will become self explanatory.
 
Each scope is different, also never rely on a scopes parallax range setting as being truthful. You need to do the head bob drill, until you become one with your glass. Many scopes will be slightly out of focus when the parallax is adjusted correctly for that yardage. Also when adjusting always go to infinity and start back (to remove any stacking/backlash issues).
 
For match shooting you should be adjusting the parallax at every distance change for 2 reasons;
1. the image will be out of focus if not adjusted for and
2. parallax error introduced into a shot can cost you points

It's fast and simple to tune the parallax out; adjust until the image is sharply focused.

Joe
 
It's fast and simple to tune the parallax out; adjust until the image is sharply focused.

Joe

It's my understanding that you adjust parallax until there is not reticle movement on target when you move your head while the rifle is still. The image may be sharp. Sometimes not.
 
It's my understanding that you adjust parallax until there is not reticle movement on target when you move your head while the rifle is still. The image may be sharp. Sometimes not.

How closely depends on the scope, but the focus coincides with parallax elimination well enough for most situations.
If you have the time, you can fine tune it by moving your head side to side to dial that last bit of error out.
As Dave intimated, you will become familiar with your particular scope after using it for a while.

For instance, I learned from experience that my Steiner 5-25x56 eliminates parallax error at 100 yards when the knob is set to approx. 130. There is a range of focus knob rotation where the image is in focus, not just one position. On the March 3-24 I recently sold, there was only 1 position where the image was focused and the parallax error was gone at that position, too.

Joe
 
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It's my understanding that you adjust parallax until there is not reticle movement on target when you move your head while the rifle is still. The image may be sharp. Sometimes not.

Yep.

If needing to correct parallax, adjust to correct parallax. Just do it and you will see it.
 
Hi. I have an El Paso Weaver T16 I am installing on a Remington 700 (.308) I am building as a long range F class rifle. For the most part, this rifle will be used for matches ranging from 800 to 1000 yards, with an occasional 600 yard match.

My question: if I set the parallax for 1000 yards, must I reset the parallax adjustments for the shorter yard lines, or can I utilize the 1000 yard setting for the shorter distances without an adverse affect?

Having been an iron sight service rifle shooter for 25 years, and an iron sight small bore shooter prior to that, shooting glass sights is a new adventure. Any constructive advice would be greatly appreciated.

Do you know what parallax looks like?
 
No, I do not know what parallax is. What I remember thru the fog of concussion induced memory loss is something akin to the real versus perceived flight of the bullet passing the merger of line of sight. Most likely my understanding is incorrect. Having been an iron sight shooter virtually all my life, and what little glass shooting I engaged in was way before my accident, this is all "new" to me. That is why I am asking.
 
Move your eye slowly left and right/up and behind the scope and see if the reticle moves in relation to the target. If the reticle moves when you do this you've got parallax and need to tweak the parallax adjustment. When you've got it right the crosshairs will stay put on the target as you move your eye around the field of view.