I have a 300 Win with a Vias brake on it. I'm tired of getting dirt in my face and want to install a gill/side port muzzle brake. Will I be able to time this brake with a crush/peel washer? Is a brake with a screw clamp like a thuster better when timing is done after the fact? I would like to use one of Ross Schuylers brakes if possibe.
Gunsmithing Timing a muzzlebrake
- Thread starter jsthntn247
- Start date
Get the Ross and trim the brake or the barrel , and or shim.
Is the seam real noticeable with a shim? What size and type washer for a .830 muzz diameter?
The amount of shim you will need will vary, I just put one on and it was pointing at the ground without the shim.. I needed 25+ thou to get it lined up right, and at the point the seam is incredibly noticeable.. If you want no seam, you need to do what the 338rum stated.
I'm guessing taking material off the back of the brake would have to be done on a lathe?
correct and its fairly easy
Shims are problems waiting to happen, IMHO. Like the previous poster said, its easy for a competent smith with a decent lathe to time a muzzle device, as long as the barrel joint is square. Plus, sometimes you'll get lucky and the timing will be dead on from the start...I think its about 1 in 360 chance or so €;~)
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It's actually about 1 in 41 or so to get it pretty close (within .001) for a 24tpi thread pitch (.04166" per revolution).
I would try it out and see how close it is first and then go from there.
I would try it out and see how close it is first and then go from there.
Showoff ; )
jstnth247 have you tried the time honored trick of putting a piece of heavy cloth on the ground under the brake to keep the dust signature down and reduce the chance of giving away your position and drawing return fire? I don't know where you live but it sounds like a darned rough place to go out shooting ; ( Anyway, if you go ahead with your swap and want to get rid of the Vais brake, shoot me a pm...I need one.
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What about a crush washer like on an ar15?
Check out the mini FTE brake from Badger. It isn't flush, but it threads on and then clamps on the threads so you do not have to time the brake at all. It does have a small lip that covers the corner of the barrel shoulder.
Just mark the top of the barrel, take it off, and send it to Ross.
His brake and install is cheaper than almost any bare brake out there. His work is good, fast, and cheap.
His brake and install is cheaper than almost any bare brake out there. His work is good, fast, and cheap.
These are both good shim solutions:
Muzzle Brake Alignment Shim Set For Threaded Rifle Barrels:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors
MUZZLE DEVICE SHIM KITS | Brownells
I avoid crush washers because they exaggerate the "gap", and torque will distort the bore.
Usually, shims aren't even noticeable at all. Even when they are, they leave little gap and look just fine.
Muzzle Brake Alignment Shim Set For Threaded Rifle Barrels:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors
MUZZLE DEVICE SHIM KITS | Brownells
I avoid crush washers because they exaggerate the "gap", and torque will distort the bore.
Usually, shims aren't even noticeable at all. Even when they are, they leave little gap and look just fine.
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Just use a crush washer unless you're worried about how it looks, it's the easiest way and costs about $2. I'd disagree that the torque will distort the bore, it takes a lot of torque to distort the bore and you'll never hit that with a crush washer unless you bottom it out, which defeats the purpose of a crush washer anyway.
Don't use a crush washer on a brake. On a flashider or comp, ok but not on a brake.
You can do it the fast way or the right way.
Choose one.
You can do it the fast way or the right way.
Choose one.
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What is wrong with a crush washer on a break? There are several brakes that are designed to be used with crush washers.
Does it look the best, probably not, but as long as you check the clearance before firing there is nothing wrong with it.
Does it look the best, probably not, but as long as you check the clearance before firing there is nothing wrong with it.
ANY amount of torque will distort the bore somewhat, though a little torque will be largely inconsequential.
5-10 lb-ft of torque? No worries.
10+? I wouldn't risk it. We pay lots of money for barrels precision made to be round and cylindrical to .0001 or .0002". Then we shell out more for a gunsmith to machine it to similar tolerances. Why do something to it that can tweak it 10x that amount easily (.001")?
Incidentally, torquing down a precision timed brake to 20lbft is no better. Loctite + a good snap-tightening by hand is much better.
Guess I was that 1:360. It went right on without any modifications! Was pretty stoked!
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