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Cz 455 accuracy help!

Lazer

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 24, 2013
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Kc MO
Hey I'm new to the rim fire thing but shoot a lot of centerfire. Recently purchased cz 455 varmint w the 20 in fluted barrel. I have been reading all the post but just wondering what I should do to in what order to gain accuracy? Rifle is factory now , shot it for the first time useing cci standards I have 2 10 shot groups that measure about 1 inch ctc at 50yds. Is that about right or should it be better? Barrel is touching stock barley on the very end, which I hope to fix shortly. Also don't know what my screws are torqued to? I would love to stay w subsonics for residential use, any help is appreciated as I don't know what to do next to squeez every bit of accuracy I can.
Thanks
 
Got my 455 for over a month now and haven shot a round thru it but a lot people on here said it takes a few hundred rds for the gun to settle in. And for torquing the action screw, many torqued around 20 in/lbs
 
Unlike every other .22lr rifle I have owned my CZ 455 Varmint does nothing well with CCI SV. I have switched over to Federal Auto Match and have not looked back. The rifle is able to hold MOA on average at 100 yards. Had it out 2 weekends ago and was shooting 8" circle gongs at 400m with ease. Even had a friend hitting steel at 400m for the first time and he has never been beyond 100y. Needless to say he will be making a new rifle purchase here soon.

As for standard velocity rounds, after about 2 or 300 rounds of CCI SV and showing no signs of improvement I would look into forking over some money for something slightly higher quality.
 
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CZ 455 Varmint, eh?

lemme see here, where to begin?

Let's look at the stock, first, not a lot of wood left to provide stability.
All that open inletting doesn't help accuracy

inletting-bottom.JPG



Nope, not a good thing having the action screw holes open to the rest of the inletting

inletting-top.JPG



Solution: bed and pillar the receiver
That'll solve a bit of the problem, also prevents your bottom metal from kinking
due to uneven loading caused by the lack of support from the open sided screw holes.

top-view-after.JPG



Check those action screws too. Mine were barely making it into the receiver.
Only a couple threads worth of bite, not really something I was happy with.

not-many.JPG



Trip to the hardware store for some 6mm-1-30mm and 6mm-1-35mm flat head cup screws

replacements.JPG



A little work with a file and some test fitting resulted in screws that
ended up just under flush with the inside of the receiver, all threads biting

screw-flush.JPG



Front and rear

rear-flush.JPG


Then you play with torque settings.
My 455 Varmint likes the barrel screws at 30 inch-lbs
and the action screws at 28 inch-lbs. Without the longer screws
those torque loads might have stripped threads from the receiver.

After finding the best torque values, then you might try barrel shimming.
The Varmint and American stocks have nice lines, but at a cost.
So much wood has been removed to get those lines and open the inletting
that the stocks have lost rigidity and flex under recoil loads. Even from 22lr recoil loads.

I tested shims the entire length of the forestock

big-shims.JPG



Best results came from this epoxy bedding/shims

barrel-shims2.JPG



There are those who swear free floated barrels are the only way to obtain accuracy.
Thorough testing has proven to me otherwise. I've tested 4 different CZ 455's and all
had better accuracy with shimmed forestocks. Probably as the combined structure
of barrel and stock make for a more rigid unit and prevent stock flex.

I don't rely on my shooting abilities to test modifications.
I use a test rest so my lack of skill won't affect results.

varmint-rest.JPG



Takes shooting about 2 bricks worth of ammo to polish the rifling/bore
before the true accuracy of the barrel can be determined.

Best accuracy will come from expensive sub-sonic match grade ammo.

For field carry, the factory trigger works fine.
For bench use, an aftermarket adjustable trigger is needed.
 
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Something's to look into for added or to free up some accuracy :

1. J&P firing pin spring. Great mod for just $10!
2. Pillar bed and glass bed like already mentioned.
3. Possible recrown. Many factory barrels do not have perfectly cut concentric crowns.
4. Lighten trigger pull and remove any creep. Youdave, rifle basix, DIP sear ect
5. Lilja drop in barrel. Not cheap but they are sweet
 
Something's to look into for added or to free up some accuracy :

1. J&P firing pin spring. Great mod for just $10!
2. Pillar bed and glass bed like already mentioned.
3. Possible recrown. Many factory barrels do not have perfectly cut concentric crowns.
4. Lighten trigger pull and remove any creep. Youdave, rifle basix, DIP sear ect
5. Lilja drop in barrel. Not cheap but they are sweet

I do not own a Lilja barrel, but to me it would not be worth the cost of the barrel if I were to feed it cheap lower quality ammunition like the CCI SV. Seems you would see minimal gains from doing such vs actually using a "match grade" ammunition such as some of the Lapua offerings.

Am I wrong? Maybe I should venture into the Lilja barrels utilizing sub par ammunition?
 
I do not own a Lilja barrel, but to me it would not be worth the cost of the barrel if I were to feed it cheap lower quality ammunition like the CCI SV. Seems you would see minimal gains from doing such vs actually using a "match grade" ammunition such as some of the Lapua offerings.

Am I wrong? Maybe I should venture into the Lilja barrels utilizing sub par ammunition?

This would be my first suggestion also. Mine is all stock with the exception of a Yo Dave trigger kit. It will shoot a ragged hole at 50 yards with Wolf Match Extra. Not Match Target. It also shoots SK Standard very well.
 
It's new. Shoot it a while to break it in and season the barrel. Rimfire barrels seem to shoot best very fouled. After breaking in my CZ and a year of shooting it with very satisfying results, I cleaned the bore with Hoppes bore gel and it shot like absolute SHIT for about 50-75 rounds. It drove me insane. Now she's back to her old self and I haven't cleaned the bore since. When accuracy begins to wane, I plan to use some Hoppes #9 sparingly and/or some Remoil. I have had great luck with federal automatch and cci sv. If you have some bulk 22lr, I suggest you run 100-200 through it then feed it a sampler platter of decent ammo to see what it likes best.
 
Justin Amature

Justin Amature knows what he is talking about. He helped me with my 455 American. I now shoot groups in 2's and 3's at 50 yards. I have 5 groups in the 1's. Try SK Standard Plus or Lapua Center X. Test when the wind is still. Wind is a big factor with rimfire rifles. The rifle should shoot 1/2" or better group.
 
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One last thing, never blame the barrel for lack of accuracy
without proving it first. I certainly don't.

vise1.JPG


Ya' know, I probably shouldn't be allowed to drink coffee after 9 pm.
Makes me way too hyperactive. Can ya' tell?
wink_2.gif
 
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I do not own a Lilja barrel, but to me it would not be worth the cost of the barrel if I were to feed it cheap lower quality ammunition like the CCI SV. Seems you would see minimal gains from doing such vs actually using a "match grade" ammunition such as some of the Lapua offerings.

Am I wrong? Maybe I should venture into the Lilja barrels utilizing sub par ammunition?

You are absolutely right. Using a lilja with sub par ammo is like running a Ferrari on 87 octane, you will not use it to its fullest potential unless you use match ammo and do the supporting mods as I like to call it. The stock cz barrels are more than adequate for formal plinking and hunting. Sometimes you can get lucky and get one that shoots lights out. I have yet to have that luck but then again if it wasnt for bad luck I'd have no luck at all lol.
 
Right on! Thanks for all the help . First question:
1: where do I find better quality subsonics?
2: justin, after all that what's your groups at 50 yds and I mean several 5 shot groups? Thanks!
3: jc5 that's my next question if match isn't readily available shood I even consider a lilja barrel ? I mean shit I want one but not if it won't give me results?
4: do I float the barrel or shim?
 
Justin, when you are holding that barrel in your jig it seems you have straps around it how do you know for shur the way your holding it isn't effecting accuracy? Thanks lazer
Also what was your group difference?
 
dj...yes. very boring. round after round going down the same trajectory
with the only differences due to wind or variations in the ammo. It's how
I figured out that the CZ stocks were my problem, not the barrels.
Now I use the barrel block to test ammo quality.

Lazer...got some pics for ya'

50 rounds of CCI SV from my 455 American Lilja

ccisv-50-50.JPG



15 rounds of Wolf ME

lilja-me-50.JPG



100 yards using Wolf ME and the same 455 American Lilja off a bipod
I was having a really good day, normally I can't shoot that well.
The rifle can, but I can't.

100yds-wolfme-455lilja.JPG



When using the test rest, the only thing I do once the crosshairs are on target, is touch the trigger.
Only thing keeping the rifle in place is gravity and the rear recoil strap.
 
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Right on! Thanks for all the help . First question:
1: where do I find better quality subsonics?
2: justin, after all that what's your groups at 50 yds and I mean several 5 shot groups? Thanks!
3: jc5 that's my next question if match isn't readily available shood I even consider a lilja barrel ? I mean shit I want one but not if it won't give me results?
4: do I float the barrel or shim?

First and easiest place to begin looking is Midwayusa.com as well as Aimsurplus.com just leave them your email for what item you want to be notified about.
Secondly I would search around locally, you may find that some smaller shops might carry the more exotic ammunition you are looking for.

When it comes to the CZ I would really listen to what Justin says, he has done quite a bit of playing with his and with the Lilja barrel he is obtaining excellent groups.

I personally will stay with my factory barrel for a long while and wont tinker with the current CZ I have. It is performing very well at all distances from 25y - 400m. 100y and in I don't expect much more than MOA, and while smaller would be nice the rifle can hold enough to connect with 8" gongs out to 400m. When I get more into the competition side of small bores I will seek every bit I can and more than likely will move up from a CZ.
 
I have the 455 Tacticool and it will shoot 3/8" at 50 yards with SK Standard Plus which I think is the same as Wolf Match.

It will shoot under an inch at 50 with Federal Bulk Pack.
 
I have the 455 Tacticool and it will shoot 3/8" at 50 yards with SK Standard Plus which I think is the same as Wolf Match.

It will shoot under an inch at 50 with Federal Bulk Pack.

Wished my rifle liked Federal Bulk pack that much, mine will print roughly 1" at 50y 2.5" @ 100y and hovers around 7-8" @ 300y
 
First of all justin, you are saying it's the stocks, not the cz barrels? But all your picks are with a lilja barrel. Btw I'm gonna buy one if your tellin me that 50 round group with standards was w a lilja and a bedded stock? Btw very awesome groups!
 
Barrel quality off a production line is a gamble.
CZ ships rifles with up to 2 moa at 50 yards on the test targets.
It's a gamble. One barrel may be a 1/4 moa, the next one off the line may be a 2.
The reason for buying a Lilja is for competition use, or in my case, to learn what
I was doing wrong behind the trigger. Couldn't blame sloppy targets on the rifle anymore.
Not after seeing the results from the test rest and the barrel block.
I have a CZ sporter barrel in 22lr that'll shoot 3/4 inch groups at 50 yards.
A CZ 17 hmr sporter barrel that's moa at 50 yards (1/2" groups)
A CZ 22wmr bull barrel that's sub-moa at 50 yards and a CZ 17hmr bull barrel that was 2 moa
but has finally started producing 5/8 inch groups at 50 yards. (took a brick of 17 hmr ammo to get there)
The CZ 22lr bull barrel will now produce sub-moa at 50 yards but needs RWS R50 ammo to do it.
Needed 850 rounds worth of ammo to polish the barrel to get those results.
The Lilja's shoot sub-moa straight out of the wrapper. Both my 22lr sporter and 17 hmr bull barrel.

The reason you see only Lilja pics, is those are my range barrels.
Everything ends up on paper. I have a good day and targets get brought home.
The factory barrels get used for hunting/plinking. Very few rounds end up on paper.
Just enough to zero a scope between barrel changes.
Proof of their accuracy ends up on the dining room table.
 
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Here is my cz 455 with lilja barrel.



Pillar bedded and glass bedded


12.9 grade action screws. These things are super strong! Can't cut these to length with a hack saw. With a new blade and just a few strokes the teeth are half gone lol.


Couple of targets
I used a bullet hole as my point of aim to make this group



Rifle also has the trigger modded, dip aluminum mag well, and J&P firing pin spring. Haven't shot it yet with the thumbhole stock or new glass. Once weather permits I'll get out there and see what she does now.
 
Barrel quality off a production line is a gamble.
CZ ships rifles with up to 2 moa at 50 yards on the test targets.
It's a gamble. One barrel may be a 1/4 moa, the next one off the line may be a 2.
The reason for buying a Lilja is for competition use, or in my case, to learn what
I was doing wrong behind the trigger. Couldn't blame sloppy targets on the rifle anymore.
Not after seeing the results from the test rest and the barrel block.
I have a CZ sporter barrel in 22lr that'll shoot 3/4 inch groups at 50 yards.
A CZ 17 hmr sporter barrel that's moa at 50 yards (1/2" groups)
A CZ 22wmr bull barrel that's sub-moa at 50 yards and a CZ 17hmr bull barrel that was 2 moa
but has finally started producing 5/8 inch groups at 50 yards. (took a brick of 17 hmr ammo to get there)
The CZ 22lr bull barrel will now produce sub-moa at 50 yards but needs RWS R50 ammo to do it.
Needed 850 rounds worth of ammo to polish the barrel to get those results.
The Lilja's shoot sub-moa straight out of the wrapper. Both my 22lr sporter and 17 hmr bull barrel.

The reason you see only Lilja pics, is those are my range barrels.
Everything ends up on paper. I have a good day and targets get brought home.
The factory barrels get used for hunting/plinking. Very few rounds end up on paper.
Just enough to zero a scope between barrel changes.
Proof of their accuracy ends up on the dining room table.

justin , shit man i know you are here to helo the OP
but dont tell all the spy stuff, damm
TSC starting back up soon,an alot of the guy's shooting the 455, may read all this.
would like my son's 455 to be the badest out there,
naw just jerking your chain, LOL
OP, justin, jbell, bm11, an other will help you out, just pay attention
all of theses gents have made my 455 build alot more better an time saving
laser welcome to the maddness of rimfire, an good luck sir
 
Right on! Thanks for all the info everyone. Just wondering if the one inch groups at 50 were typicall out of the box and it sounds like the first thing I need to do is get at least a brick through it. That won't be to difficult!
 
Right on! Thanks for all the info everyone. Just wondering if the one inch groups at 50 were typicall out of the box and it sounds like the first thing I need to do is get at least a brick through it. That won't be to difficult!

It took my CZ 455 Varmint roughly 800 rounds before it settled down. My CZ 455 American settled down after about 300 rounds and absolutely loved the CCI SV the more and more I shot it. I used it for Silhouette for a short time.
 
Has anyone tried bedding a piece of flat aluminum or steel in the forend to prevent stock flex? I thing this along with a pillar bedding job would make the rifle very accurate when shooting off a bipod.
 
Here is my cz 455 with lilja barrel.



Pillar bedded and glass bedded


12.9 grade action screws. These things are super strong! Can't cut these to length with a hack saw. With a new blade and just a few strokes the teeth are half gone lol.


Couple of targets
I used a bullet hole as my point of aim to make this group



Rifle also has the trigger modded, dip aluminum mag well, and J&P firing pin spring. Haven't shot it yet with the thumbhole stock or new glass. Once weather permits I'll get out there and see what she does now.


What thumbhole stock is that???
 



69 rounds at 100 yards benchrest with rifle pict above,,shooting Tennex I was gonna shoot until I dropped a point and the wind switched I lost the 70th shot,,

 
"Trip to the hardware store for some 6mm-1-30mm and 6mm-1-35mm flat head cup screws"

I see the DIP screw set says "not for TH stock" so the screw lengths must be different? Longer?
 
Hey I'm new to the rim fire thing but shoot a lot of centerfire. Recently purchased cz 455 varmint w the 20 in fluted barrel. I have been reading all the post but just wondering what I should do to in what order to gain accuracy? Rifle is factory now , shot it for the first time useing cci standards I have 2 10 shot groups that measure about 1 inch ctc at 50yds. Is that about right or should it be better? Barrel is touching stock barley on the very end, which I hope to fix shortly. Also don't know what my screws are torqued to? I would love to stay w subsonics for residential use, any help is appreciated as I don't know what to do next to squeez every bit of accuracy I can.
Thanks

have I commented on this thread yet? both of my 455's (two of 'em) shoot CCI SV's like shit, as in 2" groups at 50 yds. switch to Wolf MT and they become bugholers, capable of .5" and smaller groups at 50 yds.