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dillema on what to do with rimfire rifles...

westtexasrancher

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 10, 2014
43
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Sierra Blanca, TX
Hello, I have a couple questions, and would like some inpu ct.
I have a savage mk2 heavy barrel in the crappy plastic stock. I can shoot 3/8" groups at 50 yards with cci sv or sk standard plus. I am considering chopping the barrel to 16 and threading it. I also want to get either a wallis forge stock, or boyds tacticool. It shoots like a beast off of bags, or a bipod sometimes....the stock is so flimsy that any pressure or loading of the bipod throws the shot WAY off. I plan to get a suppressor for it eventually too, but mainly just want a shorter rifle. Is there a risk of it not shooting as well afterwards? I also considered buying the savage trr-sr, or a cz 455 tacticool sr instead. But then I run the risk of getting one that won't shoot. I see lots of threads on the cz and savage both with accuracy probems. My savage is factory other than DIP bottom metal. Any suggestions? It is consistently shooting sub 3/4 moa pretty easily as it sits. I don't want to mess that up, and I don't want to end up with a cz or new savage that won't shoot as well. Would a competent gunsmith be a safe bet for a good, true chop and crown that keeps the accuracy the same? Thanks for your input,

Ian
 
With a rimfire you always run the risk of hurting the accuracy if you cut the barrel down (if it is shooting well at the current length). However if you send it to a good rimfire gunsmith who will slug the bore correctly then they can tell you if it will harm the accuracy or not much easier than anyone on the WWW could b/c we would be just guessing. A rimfire will shoot its best with a slight choke at the muzzle. If yours is that way currently and at the desired length it is just the largest bore size you run the risk of losing the accuracy. Don't get me wrong its not a guarantee to hurt the accuracy, hell it may help it. But "we" would just be guessing. I know it don't actually help you but its the most honest advice I can give. I would give Kreiger, Lilja, or Brux a call and see what gunsmith they recommend for rimfire and talk to them.
 
Thanks guys.

3/8" at 50 yards with fairly cheap ammo is pretty awesome, and I don't see spending 1000$ on a .22 that might shoot, wha. t, 1/16" better at 50? Maybe buy the Cz with the short threaded barrel in the tacticool stock, and buy a lilja for it if it dkesnt shoot? There's 2 threads just in the first page of this section about czs not shooting. But a new barrel would likely solve that issue.

I appreciate the advice. Also looked at a Kidd or similar, but they all guarantee 1moa.....and my rifle ALREADY shoots better than that.
 
Savage FV-SR $230
DIP bottom metal $50
Boyd tacticool $100
Brownells bedding kit $30

A little over $400 for a threaded, bedded stock setup and you still have your current laser.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
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Why not just build a custom piece just the way you want it and keep this one as a factory accurate sporter?
 
I have the fv sr in the 16" barrel with the Boyds tacticool stock. I love it. As for shortening the barrel I am not sure. Why not look into buying a factory 16" barrel that is already threaded? And I have 3 buddies who have the same rifle and they all shoot that good. Mine is a consistent 1/2 moa shooter with wolf match and Aguila super extra. Good luck

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 
I say go for it, have fun and learn form it. Its an inexpensive rifle anyhow or don't do anything to it and you will keep wondering...
 
I wouldn't mess with the barrel on that rifle. You may not have noticed this because all the rifles on the internets will do .25" at 50yds but Mk2's don't typically shoot anywhere near that good. See this thread:

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...re-6-groups-5-30-rounds-challenge-thread.html

Do you see any savages (that aren't imported anschutz rifles) under 1moa? I didn't think so. If yours shoots like that I wouldn't go mucking around with the barrel. My experience with smiths has not been impressive. Basically, most of them are the quickest way I know to muck up a gun. My opinion is that if they were that good they would be building rifles and guaranteeing the accuracy to boot. The list of smiths I would let touch my rifle is very short. As for the new stock, sure, go for it. It's not like you can't put it back in the old stock. I agree with M6Z, if your a little handy try bedding it and everything. It is not really that difficult though it is a bit time consuming. I love the Acraglas Gel bedding compound. It is very easy to work with and does an excellent job.
 
Second the idea of an FV-SR as already mentioned. If you're shooting 3/8" with CCI-SV, don't change anything about the barrel, leave it alone! I did a similar thing with my FV-SR & it shoots 3/8" once in a while, but not all the time. Here's what it looks like now after a "few" mods. I used a different Boyds' stock, but it's pretty much what you're talking about...

FinRS1_zps655f7fc6.jpg
 
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There is always a possibility that doing something to your rifle could cause it to shoot poorly. Whether it be parts like stocks not properly lining up, barrel threads/shoulders cut out of spec causing misalignment. You hedge your bet by getting a good gunsmith instead of "bubba gun-plumber" to do it.

Take a shot and hope for the best if a shorter rifle is what your want. Your not happy with it now so what do you have to lose? It's a cheap rifle anyway.

Your gonna find threads about any model/make of rifle having issues. Especially the lower end rifles because they are LOWER END RIFLES and people like you simply wanting "improvement." Buy a good rifle out of the gate instead of dumping cash into a rifle that simply won't perform as well as others that are made to better specs and held to higher standards. Buying a $200-$500 rifle and spending $500 on parts/labor is kinda stupid when a $1,000 rifle will out-perform it.

Go find a rifle that meets your needs...save some cash (GASP!)...and then go buy it.

Only you can judge what your own expectations of if its "worth it" to do. Keep going back through the past threads and find ones involving your rifle and make a judgment call whether its the right call for you.

Cliff Notes version: You can put lipstick and a dress on a pig, but it's stil a pig underneath.

Well said Foos
 
Im pissed I missed the last round of FV-SRs for $210
Really want one
 
Thanks. After seeing how most savagesdont shoot quite as well, I think there's no way I'm chopping the barrel. It shoots a fraction better with sk standard plus also. Close to a quarter if the wind isn't blowing. Haven't tried higher end ammo.

It has dip bottom metal now(it wouldny break 1/2 at 50 with factory bottom metal, I kid you not). I think I will upgrade the stock, and buy another 22 also. I really don't want to mess this rifle up.....I have to jump WAY up in price to beat 3/4 moa. So I'll just keep this one, save for a high end one, and keep both.

Any experience with the Wallis forge stocks?

I realize this is lipstick on a pig, but this pig doesn't shoot like a pig....

The other big option in my mind is the cz in a manners, and add a lilja if it doesn't shoot.
 
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I wouldn't mess with the barrel on that rifle. You may not have noticed this because all the rifles on the internets will do .25" at 50yds but Mk2's don't typically shoot anywhere near that good. See this thread:

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...re-6-groups-5-30-rounds-challenge-thread.html

Do you see any savages (that aren't imported anschutz rifles) under 1moa? I didn't think so. If yours shoots like that I wouldn't go mucking around with the barrel. My experience with smiths has not been impressive. Basically, most of them are the quickest way I know to muck up a gun. My opinion is that if they were that good they would be building rifles and guaranteeing the accuracy to boot. The list of smiths I would let touch my rifle is very short. As for the new stock, sure, go for it. It's not like you can't put it back in the old stock. I agree with M6Z, if your a little handy try bedding it and everything. It is not really that difficult though it is a bit time consuming. I love the Acraglas Gel bedding compound. It is very easy to work with and does an excellent job.

Wow. I need to take some time and add some groups to that thread. Once this dang wind calms down a little. West Texas is never not windy. Lol.
 
There is always a possibility that doing something to your rifle could cause it to shoot poorly. Whether it be parts like stocks not properly lining up, barrel threads/shoulders cut out of spec causing misalignment. You hedge your bet by getting a good gunsmith instead of "bubba gun-plumber" to do it.

Take a shot and hope for the best if a shorter rifle is what your want. Your not happy with it now so what do you have to lose? It's a cheap rifle anyway.

Your gonna find threads about any model/make of rifle having issues. Especially the lower end rifles because they are LOWER END RIFLES and people like you simply wanting "improvement." Buy a good rifle out of the gate instead of dumping cash into a rifle that simply won't perform as well as others that are made to better specs and held to higher standards. Buying a $200-$500 rifle and spending $500 on parts/labor is kinda stupid when a $1,000 rifle will out-perform it.

Go find a rifle that meets your needs...save some cash (GASP!)...and then go buy it.

Only you can judge what your own expectations of if its "worth it" to do. Keep going back through the past threads and find ones involving your rifle and make a judgment call whether its the right call for you.

What 1,000$ rifle will outperform it? Not being a smartass, I actually want to know. I want to buy a nicer rifle and keep this one.
 
The really over the top .22 shooters slug their barrels to try to find the tightest spot and then cut it there. They will also lap the bore a touch larger everywhere except the last inch or so to induce a tight spot. I've also heard about but never actually seen guys apply an extremely tight ring to the muzzle to try to squeeze down the bore a few tenths. That last one sounds pretty iffy to me.

I slugged the bore of my 40X and discovered that someone had indeed lapped it. It's distinctly tighter for the last 1 1/2" or so.

You could slug the barrel and see if you can detect any sort of a tight spot. If you did and cut it off there, accuracy would likely improve. If you randomly cut it and happened to hit a spot that is looser than the current muzzle diameter, accuracy would probably degrade.

I have two of those Savages, both threaded by my smith for a can. Threading and recrowning did nothing to degrade accuracy. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to chop one and just hope for the best since they're so cheap.
 
And when you do order the trainer, order the extra CZ bull barrels in 22wmr and 17 hmr.
You'd be surprised how often I swap barrels to fit the day's shooting agenda.
Lilja's for range days, 22wmr for hunting and 17hmr for vermin control.
With the ongoing ammo shortage, it's good to have multiple caliber capabilities
to match what you can find, week to week, when buying ammunition.
 
What TimK said about slugging is exactly what I was talking about in my first post when I said find a smith who knows rimfires. Most "in the know" about 22lr know to slug a barrel and then cut it. I just didn't want to go too deep into the details. For a rimfire barrel to be properly choked it can be lapped to get there. The worst thing you can have is a tight lead section of rifling. I say leave the Savage alone.

As far as what rifle will shoot better than your Savage for 1K or under... That too is a guessing game. I think there are many out there that can, but it will be luck of the draw unless you go with the rifles that Dfoosking mentioned. I can give you several more brands that will shoot like their hair is on fire and their ass is catching but none are "tacticalish" and 99% are single shots and all will cost well over 2K. I am confident that I can build a 10/22 for right at your price point that will easily shoot sub MOA @ 50y and MAYBE even at 100y. To me that is a nice platform that a lot of people over look that is very capable if built correctly. Also the CZ455 is a great option, but gets expensive fast. The good thing about the CZ is you can get one as a varmint and if need be install the Lilja and bed it. Then as you get the money put it in the Manners, it will end up costing more but will be more spread out. Also keep an eye out for any Sako Finnfire Ranges, or Quads they can be shooters as well. Don't forget about some of the old target rifles like the 513T, 52's, 40xb's, 37's, ect they were all shooters if they have been taken care of. The older Kimber rifles were great shooters too and not just the "Government" but the Hunter, Silhouette, SVT's and a few others.
 
OH, I am not offering to build you or trying to get you to have me build a 10/22. I just meant that gunsmith don't need to do it, you can with a little bit of G2...
 
Are you asking for a list of "high end rifles" or are you asking what high end rifles across the history of mankind hands down will beat you and your Savage?

You want a list go back to the 6/5shot challenge link posted above. There are plenty of high end rifles in just the first 50yd section. Rifles like Win52's, Rem40X's, Ancschutz's.....rifles that have a pedigree born and evolved from competition shooting.

And that list isn't a list of the "the biggest swinging dicks with a rifle and their gear". Its a list based on the honor system to anyone who has the balls/time/ammo to post their best "at that time". I'm probably in 30th place considering I was 9th at one time. Doesn't mean I can't go back and have a good day and smoke 2/3rds of the pack with the same rifle over again. Or a guy with a Savage having a good day couldn't beat me. Its simply friendly competition.... where sky's are the limit on what you bring and all we ask is you post 6 groups on one target sheet and pic of the rifle preferably on the day of shooting. You can redo and submit as many times as you like.

And although everyone who was brave enough to step forward and be openly judged (which many reading this are too chickenshit to do) what you can see looking at the list is that no low end rifles are in the Top 5. Say what you want about people fighting over 3 decimal places for a position but the Top 5 are hard to touch.

And back to my original point posted up above....I bet I have one of the most expensive rifles on that list if not the most and I'm shooting worse than you. I had "bubba gun-plumbers" put together my rifle. And now I openly am paying the price.

HA! I just checked for myself....my $2550 EO Quad is in fact 30th place! lol

DEFOO warmer weather coming some time, i hope. we both need to shoot this again

getting my sons CZ455,manners,lilja, done have already shot some with it, but now getting coated, (it is also a high price money pit i am sure) $1500.00 so far.shit i`am stupid
so far shot ok out to 100 yrd but nowhere near MPR
i do agree with you, but some time just cant help those that ask for info, then do totally opposite.
an to all the savage fans, YES I DO have a FVSR. use it for tree rats, only. not wasting match ammo on it
OP you must set real life goals. no way a $250.00 rifle going to hang with better made match bulit rifle,(most of the time). trust me i have been down that road.
you can find good trainers or match 22lr rifle used from $750.00 to $2000.00. i have a big hard on for a nice 40x remmi just have yet to find it
 
OH, I am not offering to build you or trying to get you to have me build a 10/22. I just meant that gunsmith don't need to do it, you can with a little bit of G2...

ok jbell that has been bugging the shit out of me, let me preach on
friend an fellow shooter, now has 2 kidd 10/22. i was not there but he told me they both shot well, an one shot great.
may shoot it at the next match.
now this is what eating me, he has had annie,54,64,40x,an to many to list hear, also a state champ,shooter
to the point how do you get a 10/22 to hang with thoses type of rifles
if you get time please pm me with your thoughts, dont want hijack tread

i know ol chikin will tell me next time we meet up.
 
I would like to clarify here so as not to be any more confusing (sometimes my thoughts run together and I go full retard). I never meant to say that a 10/22 would ever shoot with what I consider a "good shooting" 22 and by good shooting I mean sub 1/2 moa @ 50 yards every time you send a round down range as long as the nut behind the trigger is doing their part. What I was trying to say is that you can get a 10/22 if built properly (not many Ruger parts left if any) to shoot under MOA at 50 yards not necessarily past but MAYBE. I have personally shot 3 10/22's that would shoot in the high 3's and low 4's very consistently at 50y. Keep in mind the only thing 10/22 about these rifles were the design of the action (I think 1 was a factory Ruger action though) the rest were mainly Kidd & MOA components. I was just trying to give the OP some more options of rifles that would do well for a "trainer" style rifle.

If one wanted pure accuracy look at Feinwerkbau 2700's, Walther KK300's, Grunig & Elmiger Racer, Anschutz 1913's, and there are a few others. These rifles combined with the proper ammo (there is a lot to this part) will show you what rimfire is all about with "factory rifles".

Did that clarify my muddy ramblings?
 
I really have come to the conclusion that buying high end guns is a waste of time. I have 8 .22 rifles that cost over 1K in my safe right now and after reviewing the 6/5 thread here I have discovered that fully half of the rifles listed that cost <250.00 shoot better than any of mine.....

I think I will sell all of mine and put the cheapest Savage I can find in an Airsoft stock, load it up with 2.00 ammo and shoot a REALLY accurate rifle.
 
I waited a few hours before I responded to this. I cannot ever hope to have any expertise as some of the other posters, but I will start with a story that may make you think. In the Magpul DVD series, "The Art of the Precision Rifle" (which by the way, I behoove everyone to at least look at it once) the instructor, a very very well known long range shooter and sniper instructor, who knows equipment and balistics inside out, made a great statement. Now, this is about optics/glass, but I think it holds true for rifles too. He said that if you look in a gun locker or safe, most hunters/shooters may have many good to great guns, and a B/S scope on the gun. Like, maybe a AICS AW scope with a low end SS or what ever. He then said why not invest in one great optic, like a Nightforce or S+B, on a QD mount and put it on the gun you wish to shoot? I don't agree totally but I got what he was saying..
So, why not sell your .22 (if there is no real attachment to the same, like I have a Win. M52 that was given to me by my Uncle, and I will die with it) and use the money to get a great PT with great glass?
Lastly...maybe it is me, but most guys here, weather they realize it or not, are the main posters on the rimfire thread. Repeat guys, a good bunch and I like and respect them. I have been on this post for about 2 years now....and I have seen a big shift from Savage to CZ. I sold my Savage MK II. I thought the stock was not conducive to bedding and trueing, and bought a CZ 455, which, even though I had some trigger work done, love ten times better.
So, that is my suggestion. But don't angst about this...it is all supposed to be fun, nothing anyone of us do is "wrong", and enjoy...
 
I think Russ is correct about the optics. I see a lot of rimfires that have very low grade scopes on them "just because they are a 22". How can you expect any rifles to preform to its potential if you have optics problems. I am still on the search for the perfect scope to put on my favorite 22. I have had quite a few on them and all have fallen short in some way for that role. It takes time to get something so specific really nailed down, but its worth the time it takes.

I also think that the switch from Savage to CZ is mainly because of the 455 and its ability for the end user to change the barrel to a premium barrel, and the abundance of them. The Quads and before them the Finnfires were great rifles for that but the numbers were limited and the initial cost was high. It seems to me that a lot of people are not willing to spend close to the same amount of money on a rimfire as they are on their centerfire. However if you want a truly consistently accurate rifle that is what it takes 9 times out of 10, unless you luck on one of those special rifles that are the exceptions.

I think this is all good discussion that can help someone who is looking for an accurate 22lr but not been down this road before know what to expect. Guys in this thread have brought up a lot of very good points in the search for rimfire accuracy.
 
jbell you did not confusse me at all,
what you an other have said, i find to be true.
but the 10/22 in question, well i guess i will have to see him shoot it myself
before i blow a gasket, thanks
now to find that damm snow shovle an ice melt, they say we may get a small amount of snow
here today 8 to 12 inch, dont laugh you northern borthers, thats alot for us flat landers, hillbily's
 
And back to my original point posted up above....I bet I have one of the most expensive rifles on that list if not the most and I'm shooting worse than you. I had "bubba gun-plumbers" put together my rifle. And now I openly am paying the price.

HA! I just checked for myself....my $2550 EO Quad is in fact 30th place! lol

I love this part of the post. It takes balls to admit it when you get bit by bubba and end up with a very expensive rifle whose performance you are unsatisfied with. It happened to me too man. I was fortunate in that my missteps were AR related and I was able to mitigate my losses somewhat last year by unloading the unsatisfactory guns during the big buying frenzy. I still lost some though and don't really like to talk about it.
 
Ok......im not trying to say my savage is awesome, it is a 150$ gun. But it does shoot pretty dang well. Why would I try to make 200$ on a 200$ .22 that shoots sub 3/4 moa? I'm keeping this rifle ans buying a Wallis forge or leopard or tacticool stock for it. I am also going to buy another rifle for a higher quality setup, setup like a trainer. So I'm thinking 455 in a manners with a lilja. I'm not trying to "compete" with anyone. It's for personal use. If the new rifle can do 3/8 at 50 like my 200$ savage, then I'll be happy.



Do you gave to buy the PT for that stock, or can you buy the stock separately?
And can you get a stock like that for a 40x?
 
Sav 22lr accuracy

ok jbell that has been bugging the shit out of me, let me preach on
friend an fellow shooter, now has 2 kidd 10/22. i was not there but he told me they both shot well, an one shot great.
may shoot it at the next match.
now this is what eating me, he has had annie,54,64,40x,an to many to list hear, also a state champ,shooter
to the point how do you get a 10/22 to hang with thoses type of rifles
if you get time please pm me with your thoughts, dont want hijack tread

i know ol chikin will tell me next time we meet up.

I have an old friend/gunsmith by the name of Donnie Fraley here in KY who let me shoot a 10/22 that he built many years ago. It had a Walther bbl, a custom laminated stock similar to some of the Boyds stocks, receiver was threaded for the barrel, nice trigger, etc. We were shooting it off hand a 50yds and it was impressive. He is a former Green Beret sniper, and retired police SWAT marksman as well as IPSC master class shooter, etc. Suffice to say that he shot his rifle way better than I did. Basically one hole groups. So, yeah, Jbell is right, you can make a silk purse out of a sows ear if you put enough money into it.

To the OP, I have two Savage rifles and they both shoot well. They are in 17hmr and 17WSM. I have tried more than once to shoot them for record on the six 5shot groups competition that one of the earlier posters gave you the link for. While I may have a tgt to post at 100yds with the hmr, it is not that impressive. Those that have tried know that it is not that hard to get one or two nice tight 5 shot groups but it a bit tougher to get five groups in a row that are good. To your question of who makes a $1000 rifle that can shoot better than 3/8" at 50yds? First let's define that as better than a 0.375" average for six 5-shot groups all fired in series on the same tgt. That is to eliminate the random good group that might happen from time to time. Let's also say that we are talking about rifle only cost, not rifle with scope as the cost of good optics can also be high. Answer? It is a crap shoot. If I gave you 10 identical high end 22lr rifles they will all shoot different and all like different ammo. The bullets move so slow on 22's that the barrel flex/harmonics have a greater impact on performance and slight variations in velocity often make all the difference in performance. I shoot with a bunch of 22BR shooters who shoot unlimited BR matches in ARA and IR50/50 and if they are not shooting consistent 0.150" at 50yds they are not happy. Winning ARA scores are usually 2300's and IR50 are 250 20x (out of 250 possible). If you want your Savage to shoot to its best potential, spend some time testing different ammo and try some of the good stuff. Eley Black, Tennex, Edge, and RWS R-50, Lapua Center-x, Midas+, Wolf Match Extra, etc.

Examples of lower cost rifles that shot well for me: I have a old Winchester model 52. It had the bbl cut down and recrowned (not by me). That is why I got if for $550 instead of the usual $900-1250 for one of these fine old rifles. The previous owner had slugged the bbl and found the tight spot at 21 3/4" which also happened to match what was thought at the time to be the node on the bbl. This worked in that case and the gun shoots amazing. It also makes for a nice handy squirrel rifle. So, you can cut a gun down and make it better but are more likely to make it worse, I think and it does nothing for the value and in the case of my Winny, it reduced the value by 1/2. I posted a pic below of one of its better groups which was about 0.240" at 50yds from a sandbag rest. It might? even shoot better with a high quality optic on it. At present it has a very low end BSA scope but it is a 6-24x variable with mil-dot and meets my needs. I have shot it in ARA matchs but the best it could muster were scores in the 1500's which is not competitive, even in the sporter class. I have not tried to shoot the six 5sh groups with it because simply put, it is not good enough to shoot six groups that tight in a row.

However, my 2nd example is good enough. It is a Remington mod 540XR. It has a match chamber, heavy bbl, set-back tgt crown, tgt stock and adjustable trigger, all from the factory. I paid $450 for it used but it had been well cared for. You can maybe find a good one for between $400 and $950 more or less. Most of them are shooters. Mine shot a IR50/50 match with a score of 248 12x out of 250 possible using Eley Black match rifle ammo. That was not competitive but was not bad for me using a factory rifle at night in windy conditions. On a less windy day, it shot the attached string of six 5-shot groups which averaged 0.296" / 0.165" best. I was testing ammo that day and shot about 8 different kinds with about 6-7 groups with each brand cleaning periodically between strings. This rifle shoots best when the bbl is hot and dirty. It takes it about 20 shots to start to really sing. If you stop for even 2 minutes, and it cools down, it needs to be shot several times before it returns to printing tightly. It has a used Sightron 36x tgt scope on it that I paid $300 for. Total price? = $750 for the package. I would not sell it for twice that fee. If you want to find a new rifle that shoots that well for any price? better plan on shelling out more money. You can buy that kind of accuracy today but it is going to cost anywhere from $1450 to $2500 in my opinion. Annies can do it. So can some from Feinwerkbau. You might even be able to lay hands on a match grade Ishmash rifle that will shoot like that, but none of them are cheap. With the winter Olympics going on right now, I have gotten the hots to acquire a straight pull biathlon type rifle and re-purpose it into a semi-lightweight very accurate hunting rifle. Everyone that I can find is in the $1450-$3000+ range. Ouch... Hoping to find a retired bi-athlete who wants to sell off his/her gear, cheap.

Irish



Mod52 50yds Eley 5sh-c.jpgRem mod540XR at 50yds c.JPG
 
So a rem 40 x .22 will fit in short action 700 stocks, ans accept 700 triggers? Am I seeing that correctly?

Edited to add....apparently it looks like I got my hopes up. Ha. If that were true, I would just buy a custom 40x action.
 
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So a rem 40 x .22 will fit in short action 700 stocks, ans accept 700 triggers? Am I seeing that correctly?

Edited to add....apparently it looks like I got my hopes up. Ha. If that were true, I would just buy a custom 40x action.

Yes a Rem 40X rimfire will fit in a short action stock but will not accept a factory Rem 700 trigger. The safety is different. It will however accept a jewel trigger with a bottom safety. May have to remove a little metal in the trigger guard slot. To make the factory safety work you would have to remove metal on the side of the receiver. Or you can buy a Rem 40XB rimfire and it will drop right in. I think I got this all right. If not someone will let me know. Wayne
 
So I can buy a custom 40x action, buy a rem 700 short action manners for it, a Jewell, and barrel of my choosing and be good to go.....

That would work if the custom 40x action is an exact copy of the original. Action length, diameter and spacing of the action screws. Wayne
 
Yes and no a 40X rimfire is an exact copy of a 700 short action centerfire so any stock will work. However you have to keep in mind that a lot (well at least some) of the 40X out there are older and based off the 722 style action and use a strait bolt handle not a new style that comes to the rear. So the inlet may have to be changed in the stock, not a big task. You may also be able to get an aftermarket bolt with a swept back handle that will work with any stock. I just don't know if an aftermarket swept handle bolt will work with the 722 style action...
 
Yes and no a 40X rimfire is an exact copy of a 700 short action centerfire so any stock will work. However you have to keep in mind that a lot (well at least some) of the 40X out there are older and based off the 722 style action and use a strait bolt handle not a new style that comes to the rear. So the inlet may have to be changed in the stock, not a big task. You may also be able to get an aftermarket bolt with a swept back handle that will work with any stock. I just don't know if an aftermarket swept handle bolt will work with the 722 style action...

I forgot all about the bolt slot. The after market swept back bolt is the same as the factory one. Going either way needs a little tweaking in the slot. Thanks jbell. Wayne
 
I have looked at that site before but never gave it much thought. I just sent them an Email asking about availability and the inlet for it. I didn't ask about the mags but will. Ill get back with you when I get some answers. It looks nice but is not in stock, makes me wander about production availability...
 
Most of the custom benchrest 22 actions like the Hall, Turbo, etc are essentially dimensional copies of the 40x action and can use the same jewell triggers, etc. A number of detail differences internally. But parts cost alone for a match bbl action, trigger, start to add up to well over the $1000 price point.

I priced out a custom rig last December at about $2500 not counting the scope. Santa said, I was not that good last year, but did hook me up with the little Remington.

Irish
 


One of my friends has one - a very experienced silhouette shooter who has had many different rifles searching for the holy grail - and, according to him after trying to get the rifle to run for an extended period of time, it just ain't happening. Works somewhat with one round in the mag with a failure rate climbing exponentially when loaded with each additional round in the mag. Created to comply with a rule for a specific benchrest class..... I have spoken to a lot of additional owners/people and - Just doesn't work right according to those who have replied to my questions about the action.
 
One of my friends has one - a very experienced silhouette shooter who has had many different rifles searching for the holy grail - and, according to him after trying to get the rifle to run for an extended period of time, it just ain't happening. Works somewhat with one round in the mag with a failure rate climbing exponentially when loaded with each additional round in the mag. Created to comply with a rule for a specific benchrest class..... I have spoken to a lot of additional owners/people and - Just doesn't work right according to those who have replied to my questions about the action.

I'm glad you alerted us to this!

Thanks