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Tubb's final finish?

Militarybuilt

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 21, 2011
147
0
WI
So does this stuff actually work? I know he's a distinguished shooter and all but what are the results everyone has seen with it? I just want some feedback before I buy it and put it through my new 700. What say you? Thanks.
 
Two thoughts. First, if you have a new Remington, with factory barrel, chances are great that it's a hammer forged barrel that has a smooth bore to begin with.

If it's a "Custom" and has a "Big Name Barrel", then it should have been properly lapped before the rifle was shipped.

Using the "If it were my rifle" criteria, and I had a rough throat or bore prone to copper fouling because it's rough, I'd lap it myself. If you know how to melt fishing sinker lead, have a small Lyman ladle, and a metal patch loop for your cleaning rod you're in the business of hand lapping. I won't bother to explain the process as there are all kinds of YouTube videos on HOW. In my view, to slather abrasive(s) on a bullet, then fire these bullets down the bore, is a good way to ruin the throat of your rifle. I won't argue the point that Mr Tubb likes it, uses it, and sells the "system". I'd rather spend about $20 for the ladle, some sinkers, a patch loop, and some progressively smaller abrasives, then do a quality job myself.

---------except for the fact I buy barrels that have already had all the hand lapping necessary done at the factory.
 
Thanks for the replies. First, it's a brand new rifle with zero round count. I haven't been able to get a bore scope in there yet to really check it all out. I guess I will wait till I put some rounds through it and go from there. This is why I ask before I do things haha. Thanks guys.
 
I just used it on a 223 r700 varmint. I can't say that I have seen the group size shrink but I am still playing with loads. The best I have gotten so far is 3/4" consistently. I will say that as I progressed through the system, the cleaning was a lot easier. I have the barrel getting 6" chopped off right now. Testing shall continue once I get it back.

Ryan
 
Good write up. Would you recommend I use this for the first rounds out of my new rem 700 .308? Thanks.
 
You could but I would shoot it first. If you find the need for the Tubbs then you can clean the barrel very well down to steel with no copper and then shoot them.
 
I used it on a M1A Scout and my buddy used it on his M1A 22" Loaded. We noticed that cleaning was easier as others have stated. Also I should state we used the preloaded rounds and Rob01 is right in that you can spend $$ on other things. We both noticed improved accuracy of the M1A's of .3MOA but then again these were standard SA barrels and on "battle rifles". If anyone is interested I have 1 extra set of Tubbs .308 flavor that I never used.
 
Good write up. Would you recommend I use this for the first rounds out of my new rem 700 .308? Thanks.

Like I said earlier, if the Remington barrel is a forged barrel, the rifling AND the chamber were all formed on a smooth mandrel. All the marks that people try to "lap" or "fire lap" out weren't there to begin with.

Your BEST bet is to shoot it first. Only do what's absolutely necessary to the barrel. Shoot it and clean it. If the barrel is difficult to clean it MIGHT benefit. No point in just spending money "because everyone else is doing it".
 
+1
Do a break-en first, (Shoot and clean, shoot and clean)until the patches come clean after two or three patching's.

As mentioned, shoot it first and after 75 to 100 shots if it is not coming clean or accurate enough you can try fire lapping as a last resort.

J E CUSTOM


Like I said earlier, if the Remington barrel is a forged barrel, the rifling AND the chamber were all formed on a smooth mandrel. All the marks that people try to "lap" or "fire lap" out weren't there to begin with.

Your BEST bet is to shoot it first. Only do what's absolutely necessary to the barrel. Shoot it and clean it. If the barrel is difficult to clean it MIGHT benefit. No point in just spending money "because everyone else is doing it".
 
As mentioned, shoot it first and after 75 to 100 shots if it is not coming clean or accurate enough you can try fire lapping as a last resort.

J E CUSTOM

Or spend an afternoon with a cleaning rod, bag of patches, and a container of J-B Bore Brite. It contains jeweler's rouge (or similar fin polishing agent). Does a great job of cleaning and polishing. Just do like it says on the instructions and spend extra time working in the throat area.

You'll end up with a bore so shiny that when you shine a light down it you'll have to wear sunglasses :) :)
 
I have seen it polish a bore and drastically reduce copper fouling in a 7mm RM unknown manufacture button rifled barrel.
I've also seen it increase copper fouling in a 300WM Remington barrel.
I agree everyone saying to shoot it first.
 
I'll out some rounds through it first for sure. Whenever this damn snow and ridiculous wether stops. I am still wondering why I moved up from southern MS.....thanks again everyone.
 
Haha I moved up here to be closer to family and my camp/land in MI. I'm tired of this weather though, I would much rather put up with the heat and "snow" they got down there. Wages weren't an issue since I work for a Defense contractor who pays me for what I'm worth, not region I happen to live in.
 
I had almost the same as the Rob1, my factory WBY .300 was the worst copper fouling pig I have ever seen. Accuracy was 1- 1.5 moa. Ran through the process, considerably less fouling and accuracy is now consistently sub MOA. Wouldn't use it on every barrel, but I'm sold on it. I used it also a new OLY ar- 16 varmint barrel. It is NOT chrome lined so I broke it in with the 3 finest grit bullets. Shoots great, cleans easily, but didn't have any DOPE on it before hand.
 
i use it on stock unlapped barrels, but only 1,2,3, not #4-5 grits

never had a issue, always shot better and WAY less copper
 
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