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Tikka CTR or Varmint

lumin

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Minuteman
Jan 31, 2013
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I'm trying to decide on a new bolt action rifle to play with, and have decided I'd like to go with a Tikka.

I'm planning on putting whichever rifle I get into a KRG chassis (the new bravo setup is especially tempting when it comes out).

Given that, is there any benefit to getting a CTR over something like the tikka varmint? Especially if I'm looking at putting a 20moa rail on it, and going to a system that doesn't use tikkas magazines right away.

If there really isn't a whole lot of difference between the two it seems like it might be worthwhile to get the varmint, and put the money towards ammo/reloading components.
 
Your challenge may be finding a Varmint in the caliber you're looking for. My understanding is that Beretta imports a very limited number (if any) Varmints in calibers other than 22-250 and 223. However, your logic is sound. If you don't need the features provided by the CTR and your just going to replace the factory stock and BM, then I would definitely save the money and get a standard T3.
 
MWM-5150 is right, but the only thing to remember is the difference in barrel contour. The CTR is standard with more of a tactical shooting contour barrel and a standard T3 has a sporting contour. The answer to that is getting a T3 and spend the extra $500 for a PVA pre-fit barrel of whatever caliber you want as long as your bolt face is for the same as the new cal barrel. Ive got a CTR that I dropped into a GGS Predator and is at PVA right now getting a barrel swap. You can always sell the CTR bottom metal and mag and shoot the factory barrel is you plan on a 6.5 CM or .260. Youre going to upgrade the stock in either direction you go anyway. Either way, youre going to love your tikka.
 
I would like the heavier contour barrel if possible, and while I like the look of the CTR, it seems like I'm spending money on stuff I'm just going to end up pulling off and selling, especially if they're essentially the same gun. However if I can't get a varmint model in some besides .223 or 22-250, it will definitely make the decision a lot easier. I was hoping that I could locate a t3x varmint in 308, since they did have them listed on their website.

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The standard Tikka single stack mags (what the Varming uses) are WAY cheaper than the CTR mags. That alone would tilt my decision.
 
I would like the heavier contour barrel if possible, and while I like the look of the CTR, it seems like I'm spending money on stuff I'm just going to end up pulling off and selling, especially if they're essentially the same gun. However if I can't get a varmint model in some besides .223 or 22-250, it will definitely make the decision a lot easier. I was hoping that I could locate a t3x varmint in 308, since they did have them listed on their website.

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If 308 is your caliber of choice, what you would end up having to pay for a .308 Varmint would meet or exceed the cost of a CTR. Whittaker regularly has the CTR's with the blued finish for around $800. The factory stock is not great, but with a few inexpensive mods it's a serviceable place holder until you save for a chassis. The bottom metal and magazines are very good in my opinion. It also comes with a factory installed rail and a threaded muzzle if you want to easily attach a brake or suppressor. Those are items you would have to pay extra for on the Varmint.
 
If 308 is your caliber of choice, what you would end up having to pay for a .308 Varmint would meet or exceed the cost of a CTR. Whittaker regularly has the CTR's with the blued finish for around $800. The factory stock is not great, but with a few inexpensive mods it's a serviceable place holder until you save for a chassis. The bottom metal and magazines are very good in my opinion. It also comes with a factory installed rail and a threaded muzzle if you want to easily attach a brake or suppressor. Those are items you would have to pay extra for on the Varmint.

I think the main reason I'm going with 308 is due to the fact that I still have a good amount of 308 match ammo from my last bolt action (which I sold to fund grad school, which oddly are also two of my biggest regrets from that period), although I am well aware that it really doesn't keep up with the 6.5.

It looks like I will go with the CTR, I suppose worst case I could sell the bottom metal and mags to recoup some cost of the chassis.
 
If your changing stock and rail on it then it’s really a decision on weight. Do you want a shorter lighter barrel because it’s going to serve some dual roles where you have to carry it a lot or do you want a longer heavier barrel because it’s going to be mostly used on the range?

I went with the CTR because it’s also my hunting rig and I didn’t want to lug around a 17lb rifle with a 26” barrel. Tried that for a while and it gets old really quick.
 
If your changing stock and rail on it then it’s really a decision on weight. Do you want a shorter lighter barrel because it’s going to serve some dual roles where you have to carry it a lot or do you want a longer heavier barrel because it’s going to be mostly used on the range?

I went with the CTR because it’s also my hunting rig and I didn’t want to lug around a 17lb rifle with a 26” barrel. Tried that for a while and it gets old really quick.

I was actually going to try and press the CTR into double duty as well, especially since we don't walk far to hunt where I'm at, and the longest range I can get to is 500 yds, so it's not like there will be a lot of opportunities to compete.
 
IMO the CTR is one of the best crossover options on the market if you aren’t having some custom work done.

You can take it to the range and ring steel at 1000 then lug it around for a few hours in the deer woods with ease.
 
IMO the CTR is one of the best crossover options on the market if you aren’t having some custom work done.

You can take it to the range and ring steel at 1000 then lug it around for a few hours in the deer woods with ease.

I bought a CTR in 260 for the same reason as Rerun7. I picked up two extra magazines used for $60 and $70 and have no regrets for staying with the factory bottom metal. I have it in a GGS Predator and will switch to 6.5 when I shoot out the 260 barrel. I have shot matches out to 1400 yards and carried it a mile or two deer hunting. I picked up a 6.5 CTR take of barrel and I have a 24" medium Palma that I am going to switch back and forth so I can have a heavier longer barrel for matches and the factory barrel for hunting season.

I have looked at getting a varmit in 223 as a trainer. I would end up with different bottom metal or magazines so I could shoot the heavier bullets longer COAL.
 
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It's nice to know that I'm not the only one looking to use it for a range and hunting rifle. Given what I've been hunting with, it's actually not a big difference in weight, but it does lend a lot more accuracy.
 
So I did end up going with the CTR. Decided on 6.5 though, I figured I'd give it a shot, and ammo for it is relatively easy to find here for some reason. Worst case I can always get a barrel spun up for 308.
 
i bought a Tikka CTR tx3 with no intention of replacing the stock. luckily i only have the magazine included.... then i bought a Cadex chassis so the stock and magazine are useless to me...

CTR is threaded i don't think the varmit is.... so if suppressing or muzzle brake

either of them will be a pain to get the original 0MOA rail off. it took me 30 minutes with a clothes iron
 
Are the barrel contours in 2020 the same for CTR and Varmint? They appear to be for 6.5 For the 24”, they both show as 8lbs.

If barrel contour is the same, is the threaded barrel worth the $100 price difference? (Would remove the rail and bottom metal).

the CTR is also available in stainless.
 
I also confirmed with EuroOptic. I guess the question becomes is the is the threading worth the extra $. Seems like it would be worth not having the headache, but there there's the headache of replacing the rail, and the fact I'd like to handle the bottom metal and eventual stock upgrade.
 
Are the barrel contours in 2020 the same for CTR and Varmint? They appear to be for 6.5 For the 24”, they both show as 8lbs.

If barrel contour is the same, is the threaded barrel worth the $100 price difference? (Would remove the rail and bottom metal).

the CTR is also available in stainless.
fI you want threaded then it may be worth it. A good threading job done the right way starts at around $100.