• 1 WEEK LEFT: This Target Haunts Me Contest

    Tell us about the one that got away, the flier that ruined your group, the zero that drifted, the shot you still see when you close your eyes. Winner will receive a free scope!

    Join contest

Help from Savage Gurus

Hoyt7mm

Bow Shooter
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Apr 6, 2017
1,040
292
Wisco
I've recently started having issues with my model 10 in 6.5 Creed. First go around, I found my extractor chipped out, so $20 and a new extractor/ejector kit and I was up and running no problem again.
Took the gun out yesterday, and had problems again. Rifle will chamber a round, squeeze trigger, firing pin drops (but doesn't contact primer), and upon opening bolt, the round won't extract. I checked the bolt, extractor and ejector. Tore it apart and can't seem to pinpoint my problem. Is this common? Have other had this issue? Hoping this is an easy DIY fix rather than bringing it to my smith.
 
I will check, but last I measured, it was set at 2 thou bump. Plus this is leftover from the same batch of reloads. Used some to confirm zero and speed, gun went down mid match, fixed gun and fired more of the rounds. Didn't change anything, and now back to failure to fire & extract.
 
If there is no firing pin contact, likely:

Firing pin protrusion too short or pin busted
Headspace too large
Brass is too short

If headspace is good, I would check firing pin and your handloads.

Also, do you have any factory loads to try?
 
Do some research on the net and learn the bolt assembly. Take it apart and set the firing pin protrusion to .035 to .040. Set the firing pin fall to .25" and take the burr off the top of the cocking ramp. Savageshooters.net is a good resource. On the extraction and ejection, all of my Savages gave me hell in match conditions. The solution is to have a gunsmith install a second ejector plunger in the bolt face and exttend the lower ejector by filing the notch that the pin goes in to hold it in place. When you get it right it adds twice the spring tension and helps to manipulate the ejection angle to clear the port and the scope windage turret. On the extractor, you can buy a modified extractor from SSS or you can modify one yourself. There is a post somewhere on Savage shooters forum that taught me how to do it. After going through all the shit to make mine work well it shoots very nice and even cycles smoothly, but if there had been all of the different prefit options that there are now when I started using Savage, I would have gone the Tikka or Howa route. That said they are pretty easy to work on for someone that is fairly handy. Also, the advice above to check headspace is sound asleep well. Good luck
 
  • Like
Reactions: hereinaz
Do some research on the net and learn the bolt assembly. Take it apart and set the firing pin protrusion to .035 to .040. Set the firing pin fall to .25" and take the burr off the top of the cocking ramp. Savageshooters.net is a good resource. On the extraction and ejection, all of my Savages gave me hell in match conditions. The solution is to have a gunsmith install a second ejector plunger in the bolt face and exttend the lower ejector by filing the notch that the pin goes in to hold it in place. When you get it right it adds twice the spring tension and helps to manipulate the ejection angle to clear the port and the scope windage turret. On the extractor, you can buy a modified extractor from SSS or you can modify one yourself. There is a post somewhere on Savage shooters forum that taught me how to do it. After going through all the shit to make mine work well it shoots very nice and even cycles smoothly, but if there had been all of the different prefit options that there are now when I started using Savage, I would have gone the Tikka or Howa route. That said they are pretty easy to work on for someone that is fairly handy. Also, the advice above to check headspace is sound asleep well. Good luck

I started with Savage too, but with all the options, I am moving into Rem 700 pattern stuff... I will always have a few Savages around though.